What caused this?

vftt.org

Help Support vftt.org:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ghassert

New member
Joined
Sep 3, 2003
Messages
160
Reaction score
3
Location
Matawan, NJ Avatar:Harriman Stae Park, NY
I'm using a Canon Digital Rebel xt and I recently purchased the Canon 10-22mm 3.5-4.5 lens because I wanted a nice wide angle with the XT crop factor.

I took this shot on a very sunny day in Harriman State park in NY. The sun was very bright and off to the left. I shot it at 10mm and was using a Canon Circular Polarizer, not cheap, but also not the best.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Glenn


72822445.jpg
 
There is a limit of the use of wide angles with polarizers. I think it is because the angle of view is greater than the angle of polarizing effect (typically 50 to 130 degrees off the light). If your lens shoots wider than whatever the polarizers typical maximum use is, then you will get the above effect.

I think that the critical # is ~30mm on 35mm...but am not sure. 10mm is definately too wide...
 
Wow, that is an extreme example, but what Jim said is correct. CP filters have the most effect at 90 degrees from the sun. You happened to have 90 degrees dead center in the photo. That lens is wide enough to show the variable effect of the CP filter relative to the angle to the sun. Ultra wide angle lenses take some time getting used to.

BTW, you will see the same effect if you shoot with a longer lens and shoot multiple shots and stitch them together to make a panoramic.

- d
 
Darren and Jim,

Thanks for the quick replies. I'm new to the digital SLR game, but the first thing I noticed was the limitations of the crop factor as I like to take panoramic shots.

When I purchased the polarizer for the 10-22mm there was actually a warning that the lens cap would not work with the filter. Now I know why... :mad:

Do you know if there is a sweet spot as far a digital SLR's and wide angles go? I mean, this lens took some pretty good pictures:

70735639.jpg


70735644.jpg


70735651.jpg


Well, at least I like them compared to other pictures taken with the 28-55mm kit lens... :) :) :)

Thanks,

Glenn
 
Glenn, the problem with the first shot is not with the camera or the lens, it's with the filter. Polarizers work by blocking light that has been refracted or reflected at a particular angle. The light emanating from a blue sky has been refracted by the atmosphere, so it's polarized. (Biggest polarization effect in a ring 90 degrees around the sun, none at all for light streaming directly from the sun.) By rotating the lens you can match the angle of the lens to the angle of polarization of the light from the sky, and get as much or as little darkening of the sky as you want. It's like having an infinite variety of stops of neutral-density filters, all in one filter. (Plus, a polarizer can reduce reflections and glare in the foreground but won't have much other effect on most foreground objects, whereas a graduated filter might have to be carefully positioned to avoid darkening a foreground object.)

Given how polarizers work, it's just about impossible to shoot a panorama through a polarizer and not get that banding effect in the sky when the sun is low: once your field of view extends beyond, I don't know, thirty degrees or so, you're looking at different parts of the sky, with light polarized in different amounts. (If the sun is directly overhead, no problem: polarization occurs in a ring around the horizon.)

The solution for a shot like your first one is to use a graduated neutral-density filter instead: darken the whole sky evenly and leave the foreground mostly untouched. Or, take two different exposures and combine them digitally.

The lens cap warning just has to do with the design of the metal ring around the filter. There's no real reason the ring couldn't be extended forward to accommodate a lens cap, but filter makers often don't bother. (Well, actually there is a reason: if you put a long enough tube (filter mount + extended ring + maybe other filters) at the end of a lens, you might get vignetting aka "tunnel effect": the corners of the image darken. )
 
Last edited:
nartreb said:
The solution for a shot like your first one is to use a graduated neutral-density filter instead: darken the whole sky evenly and leave the foreground mostly untouched.

Thank you for the advice. I am looking into getting a graduated neutral-density filter. Being new to photography, I know about the polarizer and UV filters. Looking at the neutral density filters, there are so many out there with different stops, it's difficult to decide which to buy. Any suggestion for a first purchase as to which stop you would go with? 1 stop, 2 stop, etc?

Thanks,

Glenn
 
Your posted example is so severe that I wouldn't rule out that your hand moved over the FOV while the shutter clicked.
 
Top