Sewing on Lash Tabs/ Lash Points

vftt.org

Help Support vftt.org:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yes, it's easy to do. Just get some heavy-duty needles, some thick thread, a thimble, and a small pair of pliers.

There are specialized sewing gizmos you can get for things like this, but the above will work also.
 
A heavy-duty sewing machine also works well if you have access to one--I have sewn through 3 layers of seat-belt webbing, leather, and thin sheet brass (separately) with mine...

Doug

Where would you find such a beast?
 
I just changed out some inferior shoulder straps on my day pack and used waxed thread. I used two heavy-duty needles and double stitched* the tacking where the old and new straps met. The waxed thread is the same that comes with the stitching awl mentioned above.

* double stitching - one length of thread with needles at each end and entering the same location from opposite sides of the "patch."
 
Where would you find such a beast?
I think they are hard to find these days--the manufacturers seem to be emphasizing features at the expense of ruggedness these days. (But I haven't looked in many years.)

Mine is an old Singer that my mother found at some local (specialty?) store 35 years ago. (I don't know how old it is...) It only does a straight stitch and I may have to crank it manually through the toughest stuff, but it sure beats doing it by hand.

Come to think of it, sail lofts use heavy duty machines to sew sails. I doubt that you want a professional sail machine, but there might be some leads there. (I could sew a small light sail with my machine, but zig-zag stitches are often used in sail construction.)

I guess if I were in the market, I'd begin by asking at local sewing stores. Or maybe some online outlets or auctions.

Doug
 
If you do your own stiching with waxed thread, realize that the knots you use to finish the stitch have to be durable as the wax on thread make the knot come undone over time. Ragged Mountain in Bartlett NH sells some heavy duty thread that isnt waxed. I still usually put a spot of Rand Seal (or similiar goop on the knots to assure they stay tight.
 
If you do your own stiching with waxed thread, realize that the knots you use to finish the stitch have to be durable as the wax on thread make the knot come undone over time. Ragged Mountain in Bartlett NH sells some heavy duty thread that isnt waxed. I still usually put a spot of Rand Seal (or similiar goop on the knots to assure they stay tight.

That's a very good point. The wax does help the thread travel through the material. I've always backed through the last holes then tucked the ends inside the patch before I knot them to give a more finished look and have never had a problem with the knots coming loose.
 
Thanks, Doug and Bill.

My mother showed me basic sewing as a kid, and I use an old Kenmore to do basic repairs, make crampon bags & snowshoe "guards" and the like - 1000d Coudura can be sewn with a regular machine as the coating helps the needle siip thru the fabric, but have often pined for an old HD beater that would repair neoprene straps on gaiters, etc.

Since I posted the above I poked a bit on Overstock, Amazon and then eBay. eBay looks like a good option for finding an HD used unit. Mostly Singers and Kenmores. With shipping, shouldn't be more than $100.
 
Last edited:
Hey Kev, if you're serious about getting one then look for manufacturers like Read's not Singer. They are used for sailmaking and there are quite a few sites out there to grab a used one. They don't have all the lame features, just heavy duty sewing.
My understanding (as of 35 years ago) was that Singer had stopped making the HD machines--only an older Singer would do (back then)...

I think mine was lying around in a back room as unsaleable but too good to throw out until I came along... They stuck a plastic base on it and sold it to me.


Sailcloth is heavy and stiff (resin coated/impregnated dacron (polyester) with a hard finish. (Serious racing sails are made of much higher tech materials.) Sail sewing machines tend to have large throats (so you can pass the sail through) and the really serious ones used by sail lofts are built into the floor (to support the sail) while the operator sits in a pit. But I agree--a "light duty" sail sewing machine might be a good choice.

Doug
 
this company;
http://search.sailrite.com/category/sewing-machine-ultrafeed-111-professional-long-arm-big-n-tall
makes good portable retrofits of semi industrial sewing machines. Small and storable if that is what you want/need. I've played around with them and they are really pretty decent for the $.

If you really want an industrial machine it will take up space, but you can find a LOT of used Juki industrial machines on ebay and Craig's list. Usually for under $300. A good used Juki 5510 DLN would do fine for most things gear related. I've used a lot of different brands over the years, and for me I think Juki stands up the best, and are easy to repair (on the rare occasion it is needed) and parts are VERY easy to get.

If you have a local tailor or a Drop Zone (they usually have riggers on DZ's) they would most likely do it for you at a very good price.

Also as far as waxed thread is concerned, you could always use bees wax to coat the thread you are using, and it will be enough to glide through the fabric but come off and not be an issue with undoing knots.
 
How does the sewing awl work? Do you have to rethread after pushing the needle thru each time?

I've hand sewn pack and gear replacement for years, but with heavy needles and thread. For use with any thread, waxed or not, lockstitching periodically and then on the last couple of passes always keeps the thread and knots from unravelling in my experience.
 
Top