Hiker killed in Trap Dike

[Peakbagr]

Anticipatory request - Please keep it civil, guys.

 

[John H Swanson]

I'll say it - Where was the rope? I've been thinking about when my kids will be old enough to ascend TD and in my mind, I have always planned to bring a rope to assure their safety and confidence going up it for the first time. Ditto when I get my wife to join me on it.

It's a real consequence section of climbing and I blame, in part, our community bravado for having led people to believe that the route should be done ropeless.

Very sad story.

It's called self-assessment. We all must assess our ability to complete a specific route or climb. It is the most important part of climbing.

 

[bignslow]

I'll say it - Where was the rope?

I'm not intending to ask this in an inflammatory sense. I was wondering if you could explain how you would use a rope to protect everyone?

The way I see it (and please correct me if I'm wrong) is you have two options:

1. The climber and group bring an entire rock climbing kit (rack, harnesses, rope, etc...). The leader climbs, placing gear, and is protected from fall by his belayer at the bottom. At the top, the leader builds an anchor and belays the followers up the pitch. (IMHO this is overkill for the trap dike)
2. The leader climbs, trailing the rope behind (or carrying to drop later). The leader is soloing the route and is not protected from any fall potential. Once at the top, the leader attaches the rope to a feature, and uses it as a handrail (or possibly a belay) for others in the group.

The main problem with #2 is that after Irene, the vegetation was swept from the dike, leaving only rock climbing anchors to be built. Now you have the potential for someone not proficient in rock climbing protection (I'm talking about the majority of hikers, not any individual in particular) to be building an anchor and providing a (potentially false) sense of security to the followers.

My main concern is that a lot of people see carrying a rope as a panacea, but it doesn't necessarily solve all the problems associated with traveling in technical terrain.

As far as rope/ropeless, that comes down to the class of climbing and the comfort level of those involved. The trap dike is rated class 4 (Definitions), Rock climbers (and those comfortable scrambling) will scoff at the use of a rope, while those who don't often venture into technical terrain will clamor for one.

I just ask those planning on venturing into technical terrain to please be familiar with climbing and ropework (Great Read: Mountaineering: Freedom Of the Hills). Having the right equipment helps, but not nearly as much as knowing how to use it.


I think this is a great discussion to have, hopefully it will help others learn about what they need to do to keep safe.

Mike

 

[DSettahr]

I'll say it - Where was the rope? I've been thinking about when my kids will be old enough to ascend TD and in my mind, I have always planned to bring a rope to assure their safety and confidence going up it for the first time. Ditto when I get my wife to join me on it.

It's a real consequence section of climbing and I blame, in part, our community bravado for having led people to believe that the route should be done ropeless.

Very sad story.

I agree with bignslow. Rope can make a complicated situation much more complicated (and potentially life threatening) in a very short period of time, whether it's ascending a vertical pitch or crossing a river.

If you do bring rope with your kids and wife, please, please make sure you have the training to use it appropriately. If you don't, then you are seriously putting their lives at an even greater risk. There is truth behind the phrase "enough rope you hang yourself with."

 

[TCD]

Some additional discussion here:

http://forums.adkhighpeaks.com/showthread.php?t=15946&page=3

 

[Craig]

To help frame the discussion for those that haven't climbed the Trap Dike, below is part of the description of the Trap Dike in “Adirondack Rock” arguably “the” rock climbers guide book for the Adirondacks. Remember, this is written for the rock climbing community not the hiking community.

Trap Dike - 4th class - 2000'

This feature is a spectacular dike that runs from the lake directly up the northwest face of Mt. Colden, splitting the Colden Slide with a deep, steep-walled chimney. The dike leads to a “long slab of scenic splendor” that leads to the very summit of Mt Colden with no bushwhacking. In many ways, this is where Adirondack mountaineering began and, incidentally, was also the first ascent of Mt. Colden. For most Adirondack climbers, this is their first backcountry introduction to slide climbing.
Abridged

Route Description

The first waterfall (3rd class) is encountered immediately once you enter the steep-walled section of the dike. Above this is a flat section, then a second waterfall (4th class). There are fewer climbing options when the waterfalls are gushing and the footing becomes slick. Consider bringing a 100' section of rope if you have any concerns about your group's ability or the conditions that may be encountered on a wet day. Trees for anchoring can be found atop the waterfalls.
Abridged

 

[DougPaul]

Rope can make a complicated situation much more complicated (and potentially life threatening) in a very short period of time, whether it's ascending a vertical pitch or crossing a river.

If you do bring rope with your kids and wife, please, please make sure you have the training to use it appropriately. If you don't, then you are seriously putting their lives at an even greater risk. There is truth behind the phrase "enough rope you hang yourself with."

Agreed--a rope is a seductive hazard unless it is handled properly by properly trained individuals (eg a rock climbing leader* in the case of the Dike).

* by "rock climbing leader" I mean one who has the appropriate skills, not whether one has a rating from some organization.

And, of course, someone still has to lead the pitch even if you use a rope...

Doug

 

[TEO]

It saddened me to here of the accident that claimed the life of Mathew Potel. I have enjoyed climbing the Trap Dike a couple of times. It’s one of those places that draw people to visit in order to experience the beauty and thrill of extraordinary terrain and the close proximity of significant exposure. Experienced and inexperienced climbers and hikers alike share the risk of an inattentive moment or a minor miscalculation that ends with a feeling of cheating death and as the adrenaline subsides, what remains is a promise to be more careful in the future. I can remember many incidents in the mountains, at home as a builder or driving to a trailhead where the luck of the draw potentially saved my life. Life happens, shit happens, in and out of the mountains, the difference is, Mathew was one of the privileged ones who got to experience the beauty and grandeur of the mountains. My condolences and heartfelt sorrow goes out to Mathew’s family. It is only human to apply “what if” to all tragedies, but I’m sure, like all of us, Mathew had heard his story and knew the risks……. and choose life.

There are two "t"s in Matthew.

 

[Chugach001]

"Consider bringing a 100' section of rope if you have any concerns about your group's ability..."

That sums it up well for me.

Overcomplicating the nuance of rope handling is like overcomplicating driving a car from home to the trailhead. Yes, you should know what you are doing and do it safely.

The climber shows up with his wits, experience, savvy, etc. and cannot choose to leave them at home - even if they are insufficient. A rope is a binary choice - Y/N.

That being said, the guidebook offers reasonable advice.

 

[Explorer Editor]

Wear sticky rubber

I climbed the dike Sunday for the first time since Irene. The trees are indeed gone at the top of the waterfall. I would say sticky rubber shoes--such as approach shoes, rock-climbing shoes, or certain kinds of trail-running shoes--are as important as a rope, perhaps more so. The exit slide at the end of the dike is quite steep and there are few places to create an anchor unless you use the trees at the edges. The slide is just as difficult, in its own way, as the waterfall and a slip would be dangerous.

 

[Craig]

It's a real consequence section of climbing and I blame, in part, our community bravado for having led people to believe that the route should be done ropeless.

I'm recusing myself from this thread because I have probably pissed off enough folks over the years discussing this.

However, before doing so I'm interested in getting your take on the bravdo issue. Can you explain in further detail your feeling on this?

 

[Chugach001]

No thanks. It's one of those terms within context that everyone knows what I'm saying but I'd be filet'd trying to describe it in words.

 

[Explorer Editor]

Trap Dike report

I know others have described the post-Irene Trap Dike before me, but you can click here to read my take on it. With a few photos.

 

[masshysteria]

The Dike is even more dangerous, especially the waterfall. It takes well thought out placement of feet and hands. The access to the new slab is also tough, but doable with a little scouting around. The slab is steep, but grippy, and as Phil already stated, a fall here could be fatal. The headwall is very steep, with a muddy base to it, caution is advised. I don't think the Dike is a proper place to start slide climbing as a hobby. Once you're into it, a retreat back down could be more harrowing than the ascent. Guide books, in my opinion, tend to gloss over the danger/difficulty of the Dike, it needs to be climbed with much caution!