My unsuccessful Rainier attemp

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That's right, thank you for all the advise and kind words about the pictures and report, I am already itching to go back and try again.

That morning on the mountain after I vomitted, I felt like clicking a reset button to start the climb over again. I knew that many things went wrong and no way I could go on. Hopefully I will have a better report next time.
 
7summits said:
That's right, thank you for all the advise and kind words about the pictures and report, I am already itching to go back and try again.

That morning on the mountain after I vomitted, I felt like clicking a reset button to start the climb over again. I knew that many things went wrong and no way I could go on. Hopefully I will have a better report next time.
The experience that you gained this time may help to succeed later.

And the mountain will wait patiently for your return. (Unless it blows it top, of course...)

Doug
 
I would recommend trying the Diamox out before going on a trip. It has been associated with allergic reactions and thats something you do not want when you are on the mountain. It is a diuretic so you can also gauge how much more you are going to pee if you try it out ahead of time. You also need to start it before you get to altitude. I beleive its mechanism of action is that it makes your blood a bit more acidic so you give up O2 easier - ie it shifts your O2 dissociation curve to the right assisting the release of oxygen to body tissues. I beleive there is also research on using Viagra to help acclimitization but I would need to read more about that. I got a script for Diamox before my Rainier trip and tried it out at home. It did make me pee more a fair amount more so I did not use it on the trip. In retrospect, I did have some sx of altitude sickness - mainly I had no appetite and had to force myself to eat- I wished I would have used the pills. If I have another go around with Rainier, I will probably try it.
 
7summits: excellent report and analysis. I read it in detail.

JayH is dead on about the ride to Paradise. I was totally blown away. I kept thinking (from the moment we first saw The Mountain from our flight in) that I had bitten off more than I could chew. It wasn't until we climbed to a bit above 7K for final training day that I started gettting more comfortable.

Rainier is a formidable Mountain, and the DC route was a butt kicker to me. I don't care what anyone else says. It is, and will always remain one of the high points in my life. Good luck on your next attempt! Hopefully you will be blessed with the right combination to get you to the summit.
 
daxs said:
I beleive there is also research on using Viagra to help acclimitization but I would need to read more about that.

Yikes!!! That could be a long couple of nights for the guys if you take that up there :eek: :eek:

if we use puns - couple of hard nights!!! Yikes!!
 
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giggy said:
Yikes!!! That could be a long couple of nights for the guys if you take that up there
Yes, there is some evidence that Viagra may help with acclimatization.

It is also likely to make the sky (and everything else) appear bluer...

Doug
 
Diamox

I've used Diamox several times but do not any more. There is a tingling sensation in your fingers and toes that is hard to differentiate between the drugs' use and being cold/or the onset of frostbite. Kind of annoying and unnerving. You're better off to acclimate naturally and slowly...as for vomiting, that's part of the game, you have to be able to eat no matter how sick you are, that is key. I've got a couple of funny stories I'll share; but not here...
 
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Any drug you take for altitude sickness has to be taken several hours ahead of time in order to obtain the benefit. In addition to Diamox, I've read articles which suggest there's anecdotal evidence that ginkgo biloba also has a similar effect, as well as aspirin. As for Viagra - I'm a bit sceptical as it hasn't been on the market that long. Sounds like it might be in the category of 'urban legend'.

The problem with any of these medications (and Ginkgo Biloba and ASA are medications as well) is that often times people take the drugs at their first attempt at higher altitude, so if they don't have major problems then they may think that drug provided the benefit, when in reality they may have been OK without it. And, altitude sickness is variable - those who are susceptible to it don't always experience symptons, while those who never have may have problems on their 100rd climb.

As I've said on other threads - try to acclimate gradually, get plenty of rest, stay very well hydrated, and climb slowly.
 
HuiYeng, sorry that it took me so long to post... sounds like an incredible trip into high altitude!! Agree with all that's said and Doug probly said it best -- summiting is optional...

If it was a piece of cake everyone would be there doing it. Only those lucky enough even get the chance to try. There's more waiting for you to get on and into. Thanks for sharing. Hope to hike again soon!!
-bubba
 
Not only does Viagra increase blood flow to help counter the affects of AMS, it also can help us males to stop when punching thru into a hidden crevasse :D

I agree with Kevin, hydration, rest, and climing high while sleeping low are the keys to acclimating. No need for drugs...
 
Excellent Trip Report . . . I can COMPLETELY understand that feeling of defeat as I had that same feeling last year after my unsuccessful attempt on Rainier. Please take comfort in the fact that the mountain will be ther for you to climb it another time. I went back this year and had a successful climb so it is possible to live your dream of the summit. Getting back safely is the only thing that is not optional. Good call . . . that is one tough mountain. Good Luck on your next attempt.

sli74
 
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