The Trail to Owl's Head Part (May 3, 2008)

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una_dogger

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The Trail to Owl's Head (May 3, 2008)

For a few weeks now I've been planning to hike to Owl's Head. Since monday I'd been monitoring the stream discharge rate on the Pemi. Sage advice from those who climb these peaks twelve months out of the year said to be patient and pick the right day. By friday the Pemi was down to under 700cfs; having crested at ~6900 earlier in the week. The weatherman was calling for partly sunny skies and nearly 60 degrees as of friday morning, a forecast that radically changed several hours later, but still held promise.

Michael and I had planned to spend the weekend camping nearby, and had some designs on tagging Nancy as well, on Sunday. But for now, Owl's Head was our primary objective. It would be my NH 44/48. We set up camp about 8pm, and a few minutes after I sent Marchowes an email from my Blackberry, his car rolled into the campsite that we ultimately shared all weekend. We also made contact with Dave Bear, who was heading up North and would camp and join us for Owl's Head. After discussing our individual peakbagging plans for Saturday, we said our goodnights to Marc and bedded down.

We awoke and had breakfast with Dave Bear, finalized our plans and headed to Lincoln Woods. We hit the trail at 8 am. Dave had loose plans to perhaps camp out and despite the 45 pound pack he carried, we hiked steadily, reaching Black Pond in about and hour and a half or so. I'm pleased to report that the Wilderness Trail is in excellent shape. :)

Owl's Head, with its prominent cliff faces, stood out above the pond on a quiet and drizzly spring morning.We poked around looking for some landmarks that Marchowes had detailed, and quickly found a faint herdpath. I set a course due north toward Owl's Head on the gps and pulled out my compass as a double check. The herdpath dipped a bit to the east into a soggy bottom, and we continued to slab north climbing to about 1600 ft and remaining there for about a mile through open woods before dropping quickly through some moderate spruce to join the Lincoln Brook Trail west of the first major crossing. The bushwack was very basic and good practice for me, as I am still very new at this. It was good to have MichaelJ and Dave as backups -- they have alot more experience but let me set the course. By using this bushwack, we eliminated a large crossing of the Franconia Brook and the first and largest of the crossings of the Lincoln Brook.
Owl's Head in the distance from Black Pond:
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We made good time on the Lincoln Brook Trail. About a quarter mile after we hit the trail, a solid rail of snow appeared. The rail is firm and barebootable. Just before the Liberty Brook Crossing, the trail is high on the banks and the rail is cambered slightly toward the river, apparently shaped by freeze/thaw cycles. There is an edge of ice along the edge of the steep bank, making this area an exciting place to hike through. A large chunk of the bank has erroded but what remains was stable enough to walk along. This picture was taken on the trip back.
Terra patiently follows MichaelJ along the erroded bank:
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We reached the first crossing and were relieved that although we'd be getting our feet wet, we'd be OK and the two remaining crossings would most likely be fine, too. The water was cold, but my feet were already wet, as was my rainsuit from our brief whack through wet branches. The next two crossings went smoothly. We were now only about a quarter mile south of the Owl's Head Slide, and the snow began to deepen. We kept our eyes on the lookout for the start of the Brutie Bushwack, but didn't notice any signs. (We were headed for the Slide).

We reached a low, flat area with a huge pad of moss and a large cairn. We turned east here and began our climb up Owl's Head. The snow was about three to four feet deep but the rail was firm. Within about what seemed like five or so minutes of hiking, we reached the base of the slide. The entire slide was snow and ice free, but very wet. We climbed slowly taking care not to dislodge rocks onto eachother.
Dave at the base of Owl's Head Slide:
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The spring at the top of the slide was running strong, and the trail above the slide was very wet. Above the spring, the snow is deep but hardpack, and slightly icy in the steeper early sections. Dave and I switched to snowshoes at this point, and MichaelJ put on microspikes. I was getting a bit cold and asked the guys if I could go on ahead. The climb was easy and I followed a faint rail up through the woods, occaisionally noticing a blue blaze. At about 3650 ft, I came to a large blowdown area. The rail had brought me to the far right of the area, and then fizzled out. I scoped out the woods on the left side, and they seemed alot thicker. There was an icy glaze on the branches, and a light freezing rain was falling. I climbed a bit on the right side, and altough I couldn't find the rail, the spruce were not so thick. I checked my GPS and saw that the summit was to the north of us and a few hundred feet of gentle climb. I hiked back down to the rail and listened for Dave and Mike. I heard a few sounds, and began to hoot to them. Terra heard their voices get closer and ran down to herd them up.
A faithful herding dog keeps a close eye on her "flock" and is always ready to work
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Soon we regrouped and we discussed our next move. I suggested a small whack and they guys agreed to let me lead. The spruce was thick in some spots but not so bad that I was pushing my shoulders through and the grade was gentle enough that I didn't have to use spruce trunks to pull myself up slope. But the guys being bigger and Dave with the pack weren't as pleased with my route. :rolleyes: Michael had gone down into a spruce trap and gotten a nasty bruise and big cut on his knee. I saw the ridgeline come into view, and the woods open up. We cut left and reached the ridge, and found a rail on what felt like a logging road. We think we were on the top of the Brutie Bushwack at this point. We snaked up a small bump, and there was a sure sign that we had found the Official Old Summit, the old nails in the tree gave it away. My GPS read 4024 ft.

We hugged and congratulated eachother, then headed north on the rail to the New Unofficial Summit AKA New True Summit ;) About seven minutes of easy walking and some pushing through light spruce brought us to a non descript bump in the woods at 4054 ft. There was a skinny grey tree on the north side of the bump with a black mark on the trunk about seven feet up. The rail ended here. It was foggy and drizzling and Michael congratulated Dave and I for reaching another one of NH's Four Thousand Footers.
Dave on the New "True" Summit:
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We headed back and took our same route down. We considered following the rail that continued to head south on the ridge, but after a bit of discussion, we decided to stick with what we knew would get us down. It was tricky going down even in snowshoes. The snow is hardened like icy styrofoam from all the rain and colder temperatures this week. We really lucked out. I'm sure if I'd tried to come here in the past warm sunny weekends, the snow pack could have been a mushy mess. If the rivers stay down and the temperatures cold, now is a good time to get Owl's Head for those on a schedule. ;)

Slow going down the wet slide, I was a bit disappointed because the fog obscured the views of the backside of Franconia Ridge. We kept moving throughout the day, rarely taking breaks and eating only bars, gels, and Sharkies. It seemed more like a mission than a hike, but we got it done. We had Owl's Head, niether of us would be destined to finish our 48 on Owlie!

The light rain had raised the streams slightly but not too much.
MichaelJ crosses the Lincoln Brook:
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To be continued ....
 
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The Trail to Owl's Head, Part II

The day was long and the main objective became getting through the BP bushwack before dark. We noticed a small moose trail and a gentle slope before we reached the point where we came out the first time, and decided we'd cut into the whack early to avoid having to climb up through the spruce. I put a bearing on my waypoint I set when we were at Black Pond and we began to follow it. We were on a low, spreading shoulder of Flume, and climbed up to about 2000 ft and then began to slab the contour. I asked MichaelJ to take out his GPS and help me navigate. I knew we were on course to Black Pond, but our initial track was on an easy grade in open woods, and I was not convinced that I wanted a near dark whack on new ground. Michael confirmed that we were way early, maybe nearly a mile before our exit point from the morning's whack. We dropped down to an easier grade and worked our way toward our track from the morning. Then we paralleled it and rejoined it only a few hundred feet before Black Pond. A special thanks to the guys for helping me keep my head together, bushwacking is fun but I'm still nervous sometimes.
Yes, I am aware I am holding a camera, not a navigational device
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Back at Black Pond, our spirits lifted immensely when Dave Bear pulled out three airplane bottles of Kahlua, and we all toasted the day! A hard day with lots of potential frustration and crappy weather, a viewless peak with two recognized summits, well, it can make or break a team....but not this one!
Thanks, Guys, for hiking with me today, there were times when I felt I wouldn't be doing this if you weren't along to keep me going!
We returned to Lincoln Woods about 8:30 -- 12.5 hours after we started. We changed into dry clothes and were on our way to meet up with Marchowes, when he pulled into the lot looking for us. Thanks, Marc, for keeping an eye on the clock and being willing to make a call, if we didn't come out. And a big greenie to you for starting that warm fire back in camp! Congratulations on your two new peaks bagged, that's a story that needs to be told.

Sunday morning arrived and so did more rain. We decided we'd pack up camp and head home. A stop at Half Baked and Fully Brewed for a great hot breakfast was the perfect ending to a wet weekend in the White Mountains.

Happy Anniversary to the Old Man Who Fell Down ~five~ years ago on the day.

NH 4k 44/48
NE115 105/115

NH 42(?) for Dave Bear :D
 
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This wasn't just a hike, it was an epic adventure! We did two completely different twists on the Black Pond bushwhack. On the way out we tended just a bit west of magnetic north, not far off the "traditional" whack, and through open, relatively dry woods hit the Lincoln Brook Trail approximately 0.15 miles west of the crossing.

Coming back, in an attempt to avoid some tight evergreens we turned off the trail early, but due to mistaken geographic identity did so almost a mile early. This led to some unnecessary but not problematic extra whacking, following a route that was definitely not your usual "Black Pond bushwhack" but instead our own completely original variation. We encountered several old skidder roads along the way, which was very cool. You can see our route here as the more westerly track:

oh-2008-topo.jpg


Other thoughts I can add? The rain sucked. Indeed, every time I brushed one of the many young firs hanging bowed into the trail, I got re-soaked. I never needed snowshoes, the recent rain and cold overnight temps firmed the monorail up nicely, but there were still spots where the snow was drifted loosely or undermined where postholing was inevitable, and I left my share of knee blood in that snow. I have no regrets, though, as there were really very few spots where snowshoes would have made a difference.

Oh, and having your hood pulled down almost over your eyes to keep dry in the rain is a fine idea until failure to look up causes you to walk into a head-height blowdown and nearly knock yourself unconscious.

This was my third time on Owl's Head and definitely the most challenging, due to the conditions and the number of injuries I incurred. Hiking in Spring is difficult, but certainly rewarding to look back on!

My photo album, with the full topo map and a Google Earth image of our track, is located here.

Thanks, u_d and db, for a great hike!
 
Sounds like a great weekend had by all despite the rain! UD, it's great to be reading your reports again, I always feel like I'm along for the ride. I'm envious of those of you that get to be out there every weekend, or just about every weekend, living the mountain lifestyle! It's been way to long since I had the chance to head North.
 
ADKdremn said:
UD, it's great to be reading your reports again, I always feel like I'm along for the ride.

I was thinking of all the 46ers and how I would describe Owl's Head. I came up with a twisted hybrid of Allen and Couchsacagra! But its a really cool hike, and I will return...not sure if it will be 11 more times...but one never knows...

Hoping to run into you guys when we are up in the Daks on Memorial Day weekend :)

Silverfox, thanks for the congratulations! It feels good to have experienced Owlie.

Michael, I love those Google Earth overlays!
 
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Epic!

IMO OH is always an epic journey! Glad you made it through unscathed, (except Michael's knee). From the looks of the water crossings, Emma might have had a little trouble. Way to go! Nice pictures, MJ!

KDT
 
MichaelJ said:
...failure to look up causes you to walk into a head-height blowdown and nearly knock yourself unconscious...
We call them Head Hunters for a reason :rolleyes:
Only been to Owl's head twice, but it 's a real nice walk in the woods. Looks like the slide was a bit interesting :) Nicely done: must have been tough conditions!
 
The Trail to Owl's Head Part III

Owl's Head is now checked off!
I've never really been about peakbagging and although this may be an accomplishment many have done over and over, it feels damn good to be able to say "Been there, done that!" Bagging peaks after all is an end to a means, gets us out to different trails, makes us work for bigger goals and forms many bonds between like-minded people who would rather be out on a trail then on the pc or watching the tube all weekend. Owlie was no exception and rose to challenge us all! The planning started eary in the week with an eye to the weather and flexibility in the plan for an alternate route I had hoped to try sometime. My hiking partner Sunshine Chris had done a weekend hike with good old Joe Green from Beverly where they went up Osseo over Flume and Liberty, camped then headed down off the back of Liberty col north of Liberty Brook up Owlie and camped then out Lincoln Brook across the East Branch of the Pemi and out to Lincoln woods. He was about seventy and their camp was a tarp. It was in November around Thanksgiving in snow! He had been in there enough times to flag a few different routes and I knew these and this story through Chris. Joe would never toot his own horn. She hiked with him three months before she ever knew he flew the WBZ traffic chopper and was a local icon in the Boston area. I wish I had half the salt he was made of! I thought I would hike Joe's two mile bushwhack in the early am after camping on Liberty and planned to meet MikeJ and Una Dogger at the crossing to summit Owlie with the exit by either route. Instead of dropping off a two-way with them at camp night I pitched a tent and joined their hike in the traditional route with the Black Pond BW. We woke to small amounts of rain with a hint at clearing. We saw some gents headed for the Bonds at the trailhead and they would be the only people we saw on the trail all day. The conditions were much different than my attempt on New Years weekend when I spent three days out there and reached the top of the slide. I had stood for a half hour at 3300 ft in excellent weather, exhausted from breaking the slide, beckoned by the nearby ""Winter Summit", knowing that if I didn't leave back down to my camp I would not be home for New Years Eve with my loving family. Now with three fun and ambitious hiking comrades I was out for retribution. I had still been dreaming of Joe's BW so I packed extra for climbing out that way and that meant the tarp camp, sleeping mats & bag, food and stove, and extra clothes. Not nearly the load I had to bring New Years but certainly not your typical daypack! Much of the trip in was on the frozen monorail and we began to thank the weather misers for keeping the sun at bay. Last trip out the BW was visible in fresh snow and I followed a path by Marc Howe and others at about 2000ft. This time we were closer to about 1700ft and could see the bogs. Coming down to the Lincoln Brook trail you could hear the brook raging from a good distance and we were glad to see it look crossable in many locations. Terra has in a short time become one of my favorite hiking partners and I was so glad Sabrina brought her along. She never passes judgement and is always full of good-natured energy, she easily hiked twice the distance we did with her side trips and doubling back! If we weren't a family of three dogs now I would consider adopting a nice young dog for myself. On the trip out we were able to stone step the crossings with out getting wet, on the reurn this wouldn't matter. It made a very interesting hike along Lincoln brook with its deafening roar and faint little bird chirpings. Spring is so lively in the woods and you can feel change all around you. The trail is so close in places it wraps itself around you and I feel I should buy MikeJ a nice fir to remind him of the wet smooches he received along the path. Once out of the wet trees and on to the slide we ditched one wet layer and let the work out warm our climb. Looking across I could see Joe's BW would have been an interesting route and was through fairly open hardwood but I was thankful for the comradery of my three hiking partners and enjoying the team effort and only briefly stopped at the spring at 3300ft to reflect on the solitude on December's hike. Not that I couldn't have done it then, just knowing "we can" sounds like so much more than "I can". It is always great to be part of something bigger and more forfilling than yourself. Most of the top of the mountain was firm snow from melt and refreezing but the monorail and only once in a while would let down to the seat of your pants. Usually from stepping too close to a poor little spruce! Poor MikeJ went home with trail wounds from one post hole that gouged his knee but kept in good spirits despite the pack letting him down occasionally. I hindsight I could have been weakening the path for him with my combined weight being a bit much for the snowpack. Sorry bout that! ;) We had a cheerful celebration at a few summits and took some pictures. My camera got damp early and had only a few shots I will post later. I love the woods in all their natural beauty but still feel a nice quaint and tasteful sign would be appropriate for such a nice "new summit". After all how often do you get to celebrate on two recognized summits mere feet in elevation from each other and enjoy them both equally! The trip out was full of new energy and momentum and though I usually pace my distance by time I had not. Along the trail Bullwinkle's herd path aroused my interest in a path that would avoid the climb of the other BW in and skip the push through dense evergreens. For this MikeJ may buy me a tree and tell me where to plant it! ;) This whack would turn out to be double the normal distance and had we kept climbing would have been the most direct route out from Owlie to Black Pond anyone has attempted. A few hundred feet more climbing and we would have been on a southbound pitch off Flume's knee. The way I see it we got to enjoy a whole lot more of the woods! No Sabrina! We were not lost, just going somewhere we haven't been before! And sticking with my gender I wasn't about to stop and ask directions! We did as a group decide to drop to the 2000ft elevation and follow that contour to get down closer to the original trail for a smoother and faster track out. If I get back in again this year to try out Joe's BW off Liberty col I would be certain to reuse this direct route out to the pond through some very nice woods and interesting boulders! Sabrina, Mike and Terra, I had a terrific day in the woods and hope to see you on the trail again soon! :)
 
Great edition, Dave!!!!!! Thanks so much for adding your special touches! You found a delightful way of making a long, rainy day hike sound as upbeat as a sunny day. :)

Dave Bear said:
Owl's Head is now checked off!
.Terra has in a short time become one of my favorite hiking partners and I was so glad Sabrina brought her along. She never passes judgement and is always full of good-natured energy, she easily hiked twice the distance we did with her side trips and doubling back! :)

We thank you for the compliment! She's nearly five and such a wonderful companion and "activity partner", I don't want to begin thinking about what life would be like without her in it, but sometimes I have a sad moment and do -- she hikes, trail runs, herds the mountain bike, and is always laying at my feet (or Michael's when I'm not at home). I love hiking in groups with her because she will keep in touch with everyone from the leader to the last hiker. She really does love herding, now, if we could just find a way to ask her not to bark at "stray sheep"!!! :D
 
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una_dogger said:
By friday the Pemi was down to under 700cfs; having crested at ~6900 earlier in the week.

700 cfs or less seems to be a "magic" number for crossing Liberty and Lincoln Brooks while keeping all but the bottoms of your feet dry. On November 17 last year, a group of us went, and it came down from 700 to 500 over the course of the (entire) day.

I have often thought it would be a neat resource to have a thread with the Pemi gauge values and the results of crossing the more-well-known difficult streams, like Owl's Head, the Hancocks, Gale River, etc.

Nice TR. Congratulations!

Tim

p.s. Isolation and the Bonds are not to be done in the rain!
 
Dave Bear said:
He had been in there enough times to flag a few different routes and I knew these and this story through Chris.

Does that mean there is bright plastic flagging on the trees that others will have to look at if they choose to enjoy the area? :( I'm hoping that gps will make this a thing of the past.

happy trails :)
 
Did I mention where I tripped and fell onto the pointed tip of my trekking pole? OMG you should see this wound today. Okay, you're not going to, but wow, did I manage to hurt myself on this hike! It's been a long time since I've felt like the woods were fighting me, but on this trip they were.

Be careful out there this week; we're at the dangerous stage where postholing leads your feet and legs to rocks and roots and blowdowns, and you don't want to break an ankle or snap a femur.

Yup, I got frustrated a lot on this hike, let out a few (lot of) expletives, and so forth, but I'm still smiling and looking back on it fondly. Great hike, great company, and I'm glad to say I'm not the only one still feeling it two days later:
tired-terra.jpg


:D
 
Congratulations guys on another peak!! Meb and I were at LW early saturday morning and wondered whether you were still heading out to Owls Head. The weather was pretty gross...it takes a lot to stay motivated in those conditions!

Hey Michael J - was it any worse than the backtrip over in Maine a few years ago?
 
Ooh, I remember that! Postholing through the snow into the running water underneath, falling, and rolling down the north side of Saddleback. Heh-heh. Good times, good times. :D

I don't know if I can compare them physically. Despite getting soaked when I fell, and carrying full packs, there was actually excellent footing and no other snow left when we did that AT stretch in Maine. No bushwhacking, either. But this OH trip was harder mentally. It really did feel like a fight at times with the forest, instead of just a walk in the woods, sometimes for no better reason than the wet and grey, and sometimes in response to having left red splotches all over the snow.

The Owl's Head water crossings were definitely lower than Orbeton Stream, however!
 
forestgnome said:
Does that mean there is bright plastic flagging on the trees that others will have to look at if they choose to enjoy the area?

There was no flagging at all where we were. Also, since Joe Green passed in '06 any flags he might have left will have been deteriorating since and further.

ps - there were no bugs on this hike!
 
Terra and I backpacked from oqquossic to monson on the maine AT four years ago in may, it was her first trip. The first four days it rained nonstop! Over the toughest 32 miles of the AT! The crossings were deep fords. The carrabasset being the swiftest. Knowing that the road was on the other side was frustrating! Why no footbridge! We were so happy to reach stratton the next day and were blessed with sunshine for the bigelows!
Good times!
 
forestgnome said:
Does that mean there is bright plastic flagging on the trees that others will have to look at if they choose to enjoy the area? :( I'm hoping that gps will make this a thing of the past.

happy trails :)

Please have some respect for a man that lived well and wouldn't have owned such an item as a gps. He barely left footprints and I'm sure he removed every bit on his last trip out there. I dare you to find a sign of his path there as it was not a statement to others but gracious love for the woods that put him on that journey.
 
Great job navigating around those woods! Sounded like a great hike with some good challenges mixed in. Nothing like a hard day that's got you exhausted for a few days later. :)
 
You guys had quite the epic adventure. As always great post - I look forward to reading about your next adventure!!! Congrats on getting #44.
 
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