Dolomites - Part 6 - Pomedes cont.

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darren

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Yet another part. Old threads: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, and Part 5.

Our second day at Refugio Pomedes dawned sunny with blue skies. It would be a perfect day on the rocks. After a quick breakfast at the refugio, we headed back towards the Sentiera Astaldi via ferrata route. We got back on the route that we had checked out the day before. Carmel got on the beginning of the route, and we could see the 421 trail heading up from the valley below. The route traverses across the South face of Punta Anna and were headed from East to West across it. After traversing for a while, we could look back toward the beginning of the route and also foward to the huge rock face that continued infront of us. From our vantage point, it looked like Punta Anna merged with Tofana de Rozes, but from the map, we could see that there was actually a valley in between the peaks. Whispy clouds were streaming over the 10,600' summit of Tofana de Rozes.

We kept making our way across the face. To our surprise, there were several sections with no cables for protection. The open sections traversed huge scree fields and each step would send rocks sliding down thousands of feet below us. One misplaced step or putting too much trust in a rock that is not as stable as you would think and you would be quickly headed down hill for a certain fatality.

We finally made it to the coolest section of the route. There is a big rounded corner made up of rust colored dirt and rocks. It really stands out from the rest of the nearly white peaks in the area. We had to take the tourist shots of me just before the corner and Carmel coming around the corner. It wasn't much later that we exited the route and looked back at where we had come from. The valley between Punta Anna and Tofana De Rozes was now in front of us. Tofana De Roses just stood straight up in front of us across the valley.

Our next goal was to head up the valley and join the trail that switchbacks (center of the shot) its way up to a plateau behind Tofana De Rozes. We crossed the open scree fields and joined up with the trail heading up. The trail went up and up and after quite a bit of climbing, it passed in front of two abondoned rifugios. We also came across the remains of an outpost from World War I. If it had a roof on it, it would be cool to stay inside the old building. Finally, we crested the pass and we were treated with an amazing view towards Tofana Di Dentro. The Refugio Giussani was located right in the pass, but it was really busy so we did not stop for lunch. We sat on some rocks by ourselves, had some power bars, and then began our descent back down to the valley. After dropping thousands of feet, we finally got back down to some grass. It just seemed nice to be surrounded by greenery after several days on the rocks. From there, we could see East all the way down the valley back to Cortina. We descended further into the valley, crossed over back East and then hiked back up to the Rifugio Pomodes for some R&R time.

From the back deck of the rf. Pomodes, we could look straight up to the climbers on the via ferrata Punta Anna. By zooming out a little, the scale of the route begins to become apparent. Especially when you see how far they had to go to reach the first false summit. But...we were tired and it was time for us to relax.

That is about it for the hiking, climbing, and mountain biking, portions of our trip. The Dolomites exceeded my expectations. The area is just incredible and I know we will return. Carmel can't wait to sit by the lakes under the peaks again.



If anyone is interested, I have some "culture" shots from the other areas we saw on our way to and from the airport in Rome. These places were cool, but the Dolomites are where it is at!

Tuscany

Sunset in Sienna

Another view of Sienna

Sienna Center after sunset

A small cafe

Lunch near some vinyards

Cheers

Classic Tuscan vinyard

A larger vinyard


The Lakes District

A castle where we hung out with two British brothers

The view from the castle

Largo Di Garda

The town of Torbole


Venice

Venice is a nasty place. Plain and simple. The canals are full of trash and stink of sewerage. The buildings are covered with graffiti and the sidewalks reek of urine. Just a plain nasty place that seemed even worse to us after having spent 11 incredible days in the natural beauty of the Dolomites. To top it off, the locals are incredibly rude. After spending weeks with some of the friendliest people we had ever met, the treatment of the locals towards us made us leave the city in 4 hours. So, our advice is if you go to the Dolomites, then stay there a few more days and don't bother even thinking about going to Venice. In any event, here are a couple of shots:

Carmel on one of the arch covered sidewalks

Gondola


On the Med

Our room with a view

Carmel on our balcony

Looking down at the beach below


OK...whew...that's it. Any questions? :)

- darren
 
Wow!

That looks simply incredible! How did you go about planning such a trip. Did you have 'local' knowledge from somewhere/someone? Any suggestions on where to start for someone who has absolutely no such 'knowledge'? Maybe use some sort of guide service?

Thanks for the great reports :cool:
 
We pretty much just winged the trip. The only reservations we had were the airfare and car rental. To prepare for the trip, I bought these guide books ahead of time: Lonely Planet Walking in Italy, Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: North, Central and East, Treks in the Dolomites: Alta Vie 1 and 2, and Lonely Planet Italy. Nancy (a site member) has been there before, so she gave us some info and told us that our plans to head to Canazai and Cortina were the right spots.

Once you get there, you can find local guides in Canazai or Cortina or any other decent sized town. After a day or two it was wasy to pick up some key phases in Italian like "where is the bathroom", "thank you", "please", "hello", and how to order beer and wine. Language was very rarely an issue. Carmel can speak some Spanish and that was close enough to Italian to get us by in the worse cases and even then that was only once or twice. For the most part if you just smile and make an attempt at speaking Italian people were happy to help us out.

The big warning is the driving. Ooofa mama! They are nuts. On the highway we were doing about 110 mph and cars were blowing by us like we were sitting still. In the cities, the driving is insane. The only rule is that there are no rules. The worst part is the motorcycles. The bikers there have a death wish. They have absolutely no regard for what is going on and make Boston drivers look like saints.

My biggest piece of advice is just go there! Don't worry about anything and don't plan anything and just show up in the mountains and have an awesome time. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

- darren
 
budget traveling...

Another piece of advice...get the car in advance! it could save you a few hundred bucks...

I also recommend that you NOT try to save money by camping. Camping is around $30 bucks a night for a tent site, which is basically a big field in the middle of a densely populated town with a bunch of tents and campers all jammed in next to each other. Its nothing like camping on CMR for sure!

The rifugio's are about $40 a person INCLUDING breakfast and dinner! They really do not mess around with either of these meals! You will not go hungry. You can have your own private room (with a little balcony sometimes) and showers! The rifugios, unlike the tent, are between 2,000 and 3,000 meters in altitude and the views are incredible! I say do this instead of camping in the towns! there is also beer on tap...and thank god...i do not believe they had the dr. in stock at any of the rifugios!
 
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