exploring the 3 streams west or Route 3 in Pittsburg NH

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Papa Bear

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Halls Stream, Indian Stream and Perry Stream - an October adventure

After a quick side trip to Milbridge Maine (see This thread), I traveled over to Pittsburg, NH for a weekend of hiking with Nate. We stayed at Tall Timbers Lodge, although we didn't see much of it since we had long days. The plan was to meet at Dube's Pittstop on Saturday morning at 6:00 AM for breakfast, although I planned to arrive Friday. I managed to get there by noon (I started at 5:30 AM in Milbridge) so I had the afternoon to do a little exploring on my own. Oh yeah, it was the last weekend of Moose season. Whatever.

Look at a map of northern NH. Route 3 wanders north through the Connecticut Lakes and Maine is lust a little bit to the east. West and north of Route 3 is a wedge shaped area bounded on the east by the Connecticut (and Route 3), on the north by a wiggly line which goes over the ridge line (called the "Highlands") and on the west by Halls Stream. Halls Stream was chosen after nearly 50 years of bickering between the two nations. Indian Stream, east of Halls was in the running for the boundary for a while and Perry Stream is to the east of that. These 3 streams create 3 wedges of forest lands and these were our targets for the weekend.

I was after peaks involving survey markers and Nate had a few lists (3Ks, NH200s) that were also represented in the area. As a result of a large Nature Conservancy purchase about 5 years back, the whole area is now under easement. Some parts are preserves (owned by TNC) and much is actively logged under easement and a couple of state parks (Deer Mtn and Lake Francis) are thrown in for good measure. It's all called the Connecticut Lakes Headwaters Region and it's very good to know this will remain forest land and is closed to development.

Friday: Halls Stream Road

Friday afternoon I decided to drive up Halls Stream Road as far as I could and see if I could get to the boundary where the Highlands section ends and the Halls Stream section begins.


(Click to bring up interactive Google map)

The topo map shows Halls Stream Road at the lower right near the border. The aerial view (click on the map to get the interactive Google map and then use the map selector in the upper right to switch to "Satellite"and zoom in a bit) shows the road continuing on and eventually petering out.

My first problem was a gate about 3.5 miles from the head of Halls Stream. So I walked. When I got about a mile from the head of the stream the road turned to a path and finally to a swamp! Not wearing hip boots, I called the effort off. To get to the west end of the Highlands I figured I would need to 1) try again after a long dry spell (next September?), 2) try from Canada (they like to run their ATVs on the boundary), or 3) whack into the boundary swath further east and hike west along the boundary vista to where the mountains meet the stream.

Halls Stream Road ends in a swamp

(Click for larger image)

Not giving up entirely, I tried to whack the quarter mile of so down to the stream in several places since there were boundary reference monuments set on either side of the stream. No luck. It was wet, wetter and wettest everywhere near the stream. It turns out this section of the boundary was surveyed during the winter months when the boggy areas were frozen (19th century logging was often done in the winter for the same reasons).

But it was a beautiful and remote area and there seemed to be no active logging going on at the moment. So to quote a famous WWII general "I shall return".

Saturday: Perry Stream Road - Prospect and Deer

I met Nate at 6:00 Am at Dube's Pittstop as planned. I was my 3rd predawn drive in so many days so I was feeling groggy in the extreme. Not to be outdone, Nate had worked late on Friday and didn't get going from the Boston area till almost midnight, so he had basically driven all night.

We strategized a bit and decided to head up Perry Stream Road (called "Day Road" where it intersects Route 3) and drive as far as possible and the whack to the boundary and hit the east and west peaks of Prospect Hill.

East and West Prospect

We had both visited these two peaks previously but we were both looking for something on West Prospect we had missed: myself, the survey marker and Nate the NH200 bottle. Nate had scoped out the route last year and had a waypoint at the col on the boundary under East Prospect so it would be a relatively easy whack. We strayed a bit east for a while, but soon got on track following numerous herd paths and foot prints and soon reached the vista. Surprise! Snow! The snow was actually not bad at all and we made our way shortly to East Prospect. The slash was considerably reduced since my last visit here 2 years ago (when they had cut the trees along the vista). The ATVers had also helped, except in the steepest sections.

Snow on the boundary vista

(Click for larger image)

We continued on towards West Prospect and at a certain point reached a fairly tough cliff dropping down perhaps 100 feet. The footprints stopped and seemed to head onto an ATV trail on the Canadian side. There perched on the top of the drop on the Canadian side of the vista, was a small hunting blind with a big face and a little face looking at us as we approached. It was a French Canadian hunter and his 10 or 12 year old son and he did not look amused. The man spoke little English but the son spoke a bit more. We tried to ask if yonder ATV path would take us around the cliff and down to the bottom. Meanwhile he was trying to tell us that we were disturbing his hunting and shouldn't be there. Finally after a conference with his son he blurted out "WHAT ARE YOU DOING HERE??". We said we were hiking but gave up the conversation and headed back to the path, about 10 yards back. Lucikly he didn't soot us :)!

Looking back up the steep section. The hunting blind is on the top.

(Click for larger image)

We pushed on and were soon on West Prospect. Nate shortly found the register jar he had missed last time but unfortunately I came up empty in my second search for the survey marker. It is located about 80 feet south of the boundary on the US side, mounted on a ledge, but the place was thick with moss, shrubs and blowdowns and the marker was not to be found. We did get some nice views of Mont Megantic about 10 miles away, so marker or no marker, it was a worthwhile trek.

Mont Megantic from West Prospect

(Click for larger image)

We headed back and gave the hunters a wide swath and made good time on the return whack. And hey! I remembered to put a waymark at the car. Then we headed south to whack Deer from the west.

Here's an album of all Maine and NH adventures: Album

(continued on next note)
 
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Saturday - Deer Mountain

Deer Mountain is both a fire tower peak and a 3000 footer. It is usually climbed from the east starting at Deer Mountain State park, but Nate had scouted out some logging roads on the west side that got to about 1/2 mile from the top. A slight complication: the fire tower is at the north end and the 3K peak is at the south end about 3/4 miles down the ridge line. Of course Nate wanted that peak and my survey marker was under the fire tower so we decided to go for both.

We headed up towards the tower but by a slight miscalculation we ran into a very steep ridge. We struggled up only to find it was an outlier and we could have avoided it entirely by staying just a bit south. Undaunted, we climbed the real mountain through easy open woods and arrived at the tower in about 50 minutes. No one we had talked to knew if the tower was still standing or not. Well, it is. It's just the steel work with no cab and most of the steps are missing, but Nate managed to climb to near the top. Unfortunately, the views were underwhelming.

The Deer Mountain Fire Tower


(click for larger image)

Meanwhile I was searching the rock under the tower for the survey marker and was having no luck. The original description from 1915 said "SET IN SOLID ROCK, NEAR UNDER CENTER OF TOWER". Well a concrete foundation for the stairs sat very near the center and besides the tower didn't look like something built prior to 1915. I told Nate to go on to the bag 3K peak and I would spend more time searching under the tower. After perhaps a hour's effort, I gave up and headed back to the car, arriving around 4:00 PM. Nate showed up about 5:00 PM after successfully bagging the 3 K peak. BTW: the fire tower peak is also a 3K peak - 3005 feet - but lacks sufficient prominence to make the list. The higher south peak is 3180+ feet.

When I got back home I Googled the fire tower (Here), and discovered the present steel tower was built in 1933. The original tower (built in 1911 and rebuilt in 1915) was wooden. So ... I guess I need to go back and find some remnants of the old tower ... maybe :).

Here's the benchmarking log for this station: Log for Deer

We headed back, cleaned up, and hit Buck Rub's Pizza. I was now 0 for 2 for my survey markers, but it was a great day nevertheless.

Here's an album of all Maine and NH adventures: Album

(continued on next note)
 
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Sunday: Indian Stream Road - The canyon Trail

Today our plan was to check out Indian Stream Road and find out what the scoop was the the "Gorge" or "Canyon" we had heard about. Meanwhile, it rained from 1.5 to 2.5 inches the night before and the rain didn't abate till we left Dube's. We decided to check out what ever this "Gorge" was first before getting into any serious whacks. We hoped to give the woods a few hours to dry out.

We drove all the way up Indian Stream Road (which has several branches at the far end). The West branch was under water when we checked it out. That route would have to await another. dryer day. Note in the photo, the water washing over the road at the back of the photo. It seemed at least 6 inches deep.

West Branch of Indian Stream Road under water

(Click for larger image)

We went to the end of the middle branch and Nate took a reading on a waypoint he had set on the boundary where it goes way, way up to the north. He hoped to whack up there on Monday.

We turned around and headed back and stopped at a parking lot with a sign for the "Canyon Trail". This is what we were looking for, but it took a while to find the trail head. We found it across the road and started in. The first section was through a lovely open conifer grove. Then we got to a real gorge. The water below the trail was roiling. The previous nights rain was all trying to get through the gorge at one point. We scrambled down maybe 60 or 70 feet to the waters' edge and here is what we saw, up close and personal:

Left: trail trough a lovely conifer grove
Right: roiling water in the Gorge


(click for larger images)

We really hit it at the right point, but you should check this out if you get a chance.

Sunday: Halls Stream Road - Metallak Mountain

There were two more survey markers I was hoping to find. One (called "Indian") was off Indian Stream Road and the other (called "Metallak") was off of Halls Stream Road. I decided to forgo the closer one (Indian) and go for Metallak since 1) it seemed from the description it would be easier to find and 2) there was a possibility Halls Stream Road would close tomorrow after the end of Moose Season. So after doing some recon on "Indian", we headed down to the road that crossed over to Halls Stream Road and up to the logging road I had scoped out on Friday.

We got there and found we were about 3/4 mile from our mark and headed up. There were lots of boggy skid roads and I got wet up to my ankles at several points, but it was actually a rather easy whack. The top was very verdant. The moss seemed like it was a foot thick and I had the impression I was the first person to seriously look for this mark since the time it was established in 1915, Which is not to say no one had passed through - I'm sure the place was logged several times in the last century.

This particular mark had a second disk - a reference marker - set about 11' 6" from the station. We got to a slight knoll and the GPS said the marker is "here". Nate spotted a rock off to the side and scraped of the moss. Voilla - a disk. We checked it out and it was a U S & C B Survey triangulation disk. Wow, that was quick. This looked like pay dirt. The description said the disk was mounted in concrete. This was cemented into a roack - that was a bit of a stretch but possible. Next job - measure off the distance and find the reference mark. Once you have a point, a second point at a precise distance and direction is usually easy to find. We probed and scraped and scraped and probed at the described point - nothing. I then said "Sometimes early surveys took azimuths from the south instead of the north, lets check the opposite direction". So we did. After a few minutes we found another disk, this time it was mounted in a mass of concrete in some soft bedrock. And it was another triangulation disk!. Conclusion: they only had one type of disk in their "kit" and this second find was the real station. The other was the reference marker. (Note: I just checked the original documentation from 1915, and the boundary commission didn't have reference mark disks, so they used a triangulation disk for the purpose. This would be a problem if you only found one disk - you wouldn't know if you found the station or the reference mark.)

Left: open woods for an easy whack
Right: the station at the summit (highlighted with some talc)


(click for larger images)

After the obligatory photos, we trekked back to the car. It was another good day and finally I found a mark, and one that had probably not been found since 1915! It was 1 for 3 in New Hampshire, but hey! batting .333 ain't too shabby.

Here's the log for this station on my benchmarking site: Log for Metallak

We then explored Halls Stream Road southward. It seems at the timber company's bound, there's a gate, permanently closed. Beyond it, farm land all the way down to that little piece of Vermont that sticks over into New Hampshire. So if you want to get to Halls Stream Road, you need to take the crossover road from Indian Stream Road. You can't drive up from Beecher's Falls.

I had to head back in the morning, but Nate would stay another day or two. I'll let him tell you about that plus his remembrances of our hikes that I may have forgotten.

Monday: Heading home


The trip down to the Boston area on Monday was beautiful (sorry, I didn't stop to take any photos). From bare trees in the north, to delicate yellow larch among the deep green conifers through the Whites, and finally full Fall foliage in southern New Hampshire and Massachusetts. A great end to a great weekend. Guess what: in 5 days I drove just under 1000 miles! That must be some sort of record. And that doesn't count the miles Nate drove us (60 - 80 miles?) or the bus to and from NYC.

Then the next day, going down from my son's to NYC, rain rain and more rain.

Here's an album of all Maine and NH adventures: Album
 
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I have climbed Metallak Mtn but don't remember seeing the disk

In the past that road was open in deer season but not plowed so you might want chains and 4wd, I remember the van sliding backwards through the gate
 
I have climbed Metallak Mtn but don't remember seeing the disk

In the past that road was open in deer season but not plowed so you might want chains and 4wd, I remember the van sliding backwards through the gate
Actually Nate and I scoped out the several bumps on Metallak. There were at least two bumps slightly SE of the survey marker that appeared higher (maybe 5 to 10 feet), so one might easily skip the bump the marker was on. And unlike a number of IBC disks (Chain of Ponds Snow comes to mind) the marker was not exposed. Both disks were several inches under dirt, moss etc. I do not believe we could have found it without GPS, since the description was rather vague ("ABOUT 2 MILES SOUTHEAST OF MALVINA, QUEBEC, RAILROAD STATION, ON THE CREST OF THE DIVIDE BETWEEN HALLS STREAM AND INDIAN STREAM.") and the summit is rather flat.

The lower entrance to Halls Stream Road (from Vermont) has a gate that is welded shut. The cross road from Indian Stream had an open gate. I think the timber company didn't want any tourist traffic. To get to the road, you really have to know the way (it is on maps). Hunters of course know how to get there.
 
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I have climbed Metallak Mtn but don't remember seeing the disk
...
Roy
Here's a screen shot of a topo map showing the location of the Metallak marker on the peak:


(click for interactive Google map)

As you can see, the marker is towards the northwest of the summit contour and as I mentioned is not on the highest point.
 
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PaPa Bear . . . just love reports for this type of adventure. Really appreciate you taking the time to compile your photos, compose the narrative, and share your experiences! Thank you!!
 
Both disks were several inches under dirt, moss etc. I do not believe we could have found it without GPS
We went on to the tri-top peak to the N passing near the BM site, if there had been a rock outcrop with an exposed disk we would have seen it. But there were fresh fallen leaves and as we weren't looking for the BM we didn't do any digging.

The old map shows it about where you found it:
http://docs.unh.edu/NH/inst27nw.jpg

The lower entrance to Halls Stream Road (from Vermont) has a gate that is welded shut. The cross road from Indian Stream had an open gate. I think the timber company didn't want any tourist traffic.
It was the people on lower Hall Stream Rd that didn't want logging traffic chewing up their road, so the logging company built the connector to use instead

To get to the road, you really have to know the way (it is on maps). Hunters of course know how to get there.
It wasn't on any maps when we found it, just a suspicious heavy-traffic road in the right direction

I have canoed parts of Hall Stream and Indian Stream, Perry Stream was too rocky to bother with
 
The old map shows it about where you found it:
http://docs.unh.edu/NH/inst27nw.jpg
Those maps are good, considering the techniques used. There's stuff there that didn't make it to the current versions. In particular it shows the boggy area on that north branch that heads up to Monument 502. That's where my road turned too wet to travel on my Friday recon walk. Ditto for the bog along the stream below that point for a half mile or so.
I have canoed parts of Hall Stream and Indian Stream, Perry Stream was too rocky to bother with
I wouldn't try that today on Halls Stream, at least not in the lower area where there are farms on both sides. The locals (several different ones) were talking about narcotics traffic over the stream in that area. You might attract some law inforcement/border patrol types.

Of course we say that about the entire border and I know of no hiker who has ever been stopped. Especially since the Canadians tend to ride their ATVs and snow machines along the border routinely. So why worry, right?
 
I saw 1HappyHiker viewing this post last night (thanks to the handy "Currently active users" button at the bottom of the forum page :D) and was intrigued by the title. Turns out this was a very interesting read. The far north woods have had hold of my interest for quite while now, and this adventure feeds my desire to head up for some exploring yet even more.

Brian
 
It turns out this section of the boundary was surveyed during the winter months when the boggy areas were frozen (19th century logging was often done in the winter for the same reasons).
The WMNF and other landowners still require winter logging in sensitive areas.

A friend of mine once interviewed a log truck driver who saw his recently parked log truck suddenly vanish downhill when the warm tires melted a layer of water to lubricate the ice underneath, after he got done remembering such stories to tell her he moved to Florida to haul gravel!

In particular it shows the boggy area on that north branch that heads up to Monument 502. That's where my road turned too wet to travel on my Friday recon walk.
I think we drove across there in 2004 when we climbed the peak near BM 503
I wouldn't try that today on Halls Stream, at least not in the lower area where there are farms on both sides. The locals (several different ones) were talking about narcotics traffic over the stream in that area.
We did the trip as legally as we could, on the upper river both starting and ending on the Canadian side and on the lower river starting and ending on the US side so both customs were aware of our activity

You might attract some law inforcement/border patrol types.
Of course we say that about the entire border and I know of no hiker who has ever been stopped.
I have been questioned twice by the border patrol, once near Norton VT
and once near Sandy Bay Mtn ME and in both cases they seemed to accept
what must have seemed to them like crazy stories
 
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