Rainer, Hood, Shasta, fall 2005??

Taking a stab at this to see if there is interest.

I want to do hood, shasta, rainer, (not all but one of them) this year. Pretty bad. The obvoius choice is to get a guide for these mountains, but this can get expensive - Rainer is like 800, the others are around 500. I am sure they are worth every penny, but its tough to justify 1500 bucks on a vacation when your wife has no part of it. At least in my case..

Again, I am just probing this idea, but if there was interest in someone who has done Rainer, has some glaicer travel, etc, and would be willing to go and be a kind of a trip leader.

If there were a few people interested, it would be fun, and expenses could be shared, etc... I would only consider this if someone has been on the mountain or has similar experiecne. I have most of the skills needed except glacier skills.

People going would have serious, dedicated to training before hand, basic ice/snow climbing experiecne, have the gear, and beer drinkers (just kidding) etc...

I would think we would just do the normal route (disapointment clever).

Of course many things would have to come into play if this was to work - but I thought it was worth asking.

Please only reply if interested, as I know it is a tough mountain, altitude, endurance, etc....I have done loads of research, talked with people who have done it, etc... I appreciate the advice, but know of the dangers, risk associated with this mountain. (altitude, falling rock, falling ice, crevasses, etc..)

Totally into it!

Hi Giggy!
I think you have a grand idea and would like to join the group. I am a licensed guide, but not qualified for Western Mts because I ain't never been there............

Keep me posted!
Inge

You have my interest. I have done Mount Rainier three times, all self-guided as well as Mount Hood twice, but not Shasta. When do think this will take place?

I signed on for a Ranier trip for this summer that got pushed off until a later date. If there is room, I would love to climb any of those mountains. I have to admit that I have no glacier experience, and would need to take a mountaineering course beforehand.

Hillman1, you will do fine. If this trip falls into place, I'll get with you and the others several times to go over the techniques used. I would suggest a 3-day event where the first day you leave the parking lot and climb the snowfield to Camp Muir. The second day can be used for practice, organization and small hikes. Finally the third day will be summit day and hike out. If the trip can be stretched to 5 days, then Mt. Hood should also be considered. Might as well take advantage of the trip once you are out there.

I can easily get enough time off for both climbs with enough notice. It would make for a great vacation.

The first post mentions a fall climb. Just a suggestion but the D.C. route on Rainier is typically out of condition by fall. The route is usually horribly suncupped and the snowbridges are gone by fall. The snowfall level in the Cascades this winter has been low so the season will probably be somewhat shorter this year. Late May through early September is the best time to climb the D.C. route. August is usually the best time for sustained periods of good weather.

The trade route on Shasta, Avalanche Gulch, can be climbed later in the season. (No glacier travel required.) But it is more pleasant in the early season when it is mostly a snow climb. Have fun.

As AOC-1 mentioned, and I failed to mention, June to August for travel on Mount Rainier is desirable. The conditions do deteriorate after mid to late August. Mount hood and Shasta have longer climbing seasons. However they also become quite sun-cupped and the glacier turns to mash potatoes as you approach late morning. These conditions can be especially concerning coming off of Mount Hood past the Pearly Gates. The bergshrund is your primary concern if your footing becomes a problem. However and early morning start (1:00am) is preferred to ensure crisp and solid cover over the snowfields and glaciers.

wow - this is great - I did not think there would be this much interest.

By fall, I meant sept, but august might be the better choice and details like this can be soreted out by the group of course.

I think guiness has the answers from there - he has done it 3 times so he knows the deal. Also - that is exactly the type of person I was looking for!!.

Also - Ice and snow is a guide (not from the west) and would also be valuable to have along.

where are we all from: I am from mass.

It would be nice to do both hood and rainer. Not sure if thats possible. If we split costs on a rental car, and camped, it could be done pretty cheap I think.

I'm planning on getting out to the Cascades sometime this year and Hood sounds interesting, I'd be willing to plan my time out there around this. I've already completed a level one glacier course and was considering another one this year. I'm not as interested in Ranier but what the hey.

Hmm, What kind of timeframe would it look like to do this? 2 weeks out west?

I'm already scoped to go to Alaska this year so finances and time(vacation) might be a problem.. But certainly sounds interesting..

Jay

Looking at my work schedule, I have limited time from which I have to choose. It works that July 29 through August 6 will be the only time slot available this summer. If this trip is to go forward, let’s get everyone involved to commit to a timetable soon so reservations can be made. Remember that we are looking at a busy time of the year for obtaining flights and lodging. The details regarding travel, lodging, campgrounds and equipment can be detailed once we have a commitment on a timetable.

If these dates do not work well for everyone, you can still count on me to help setup some logistics.

Ed

Those dates work for me as any would. Let me massage this with the wife and see if I can commit 100% for that week - I think I can.

To do do rainer - it looks like 3 days on the mountain (paradise to paradise). What would suggest for travel - 2 days or 4 days. (for example - if we fly to seattle, on thursday, what is reasonable to start climbing - friday? or sat?) I guess the flight home wouldn't be a problem.

does this sound realistic? (don't get caught up on exact dates but rather timewise) Fly in on a thursday, get to paradise, camp or stay in hotel, climb to camp muir on the friday, rest, practice, short hikes, do the same on sat, and summit sunday and fly home sunday night - or monday.

I think only rainer or hood might be doable with timelines, but I might be wrong and if we did hood first, it might be really good to acclimitize - correct me if I wrong, but this is eaiser (but not easy) than rainer right?

I was at Mt. Hood last summer. Made it as close to the summit as possible before I would need additional gear, which I didn't have being a newbie.

I'm planning to get back out there late July/early August and would love to get together with other VFTT'rs that will be in the area.

Any suggestions on ice/glacier courses that would be good for a beginner?

I'm not going to plan to summit Ranier, but up as far as possible would be really cool!

Here's an undercast pic from last summer that I took from Mt. Hood .... looking south, those are the three sisters.

That week/ time frame may be good for me. I'd prefer hood over Rainer even though I have free lodging available ot me near Rainier.

Skimom:
I did my glacier course through AAI out of belingham. I thought it was great, I would recommend Jeremy A. as a guide. If you can make efforts to fill up the class w/ people you know that would be a good idea. A few of the classmates had no backpacking experience and it did effect the course more than I have liked. I can get you more details tuesday after work and my weekend on the Dixes....

How to prepare....

Our team of 4 will be attending the Alaska Moutaineering School 6 day Alaska Mountaineering Course on Denali this June. The course is designed to prepare you for a Denali Summit attempt unguided. Glacier travel, crevasse rescue, avalanche safety, high altitude camping, route finding, wilderness ethics, and nutrition are some of the topics covered.

We were surprised to find the cost is actually equivalent to a similar course on Ranier. So Denali beacme the obvious choice

Following that we have our sights on Ranier - unguided, probably in June 2006.

If all goes well - Denali in 2007.

So - although I wish I could go to Ranier this year, it will have to wait to 2006.

Harry, I'll get you the local favorite "Rainier Beer" in the Glacier Lounge inside Paradise Inn. That beer wll be waiting for you. All you have to do is show up.

Warren, It would be an honor if you could make it. If you want, skip the Rainier summit bid and spend a couple of days on the circumfrence trail, or head over to Mt. St. Helens, then we can meet up for Mount Hood.

Skimon, what can I say. You are strong enough and it would be a pleasure for you to be there.

Daxs, JayH, Hillman1 Think about it!

Oh.... If only... I was looking at RMI guides website last week and drooling over the possibility of attempting Ranier. I would also need some sort of Mountaineering course as I have not climbed ice before and have zero rope experience. My wife would prefer that I NEVER climb ice, but that's another subject. 800$ is sort of steep, especially since you bring all of your own stuff... Would love to join but am going to Ecuador in July and I don't think I could swing the time off. Great idea though.

BTW, what sort of experience is necessary to climb Ranier? I have been up a 14er before and experienced altitude, but how technical does the mountain get, and what must one know about to trek across a glacier?

Right now, tentatively, I've got Wrangell St Elias pencilled in from July 13 to the 31st, so that July 29th-Aug 6th might be interesting because I have stopped in Seattle SEATAC on the way back to Newark before (never get a direct flight of course).

It might actually work out although it is seriously going to be expensive year then. I, although sure I am physically up to it, I do not have any mountaineering XP other than the usual winter fun, crampon usage, etc. so a course for me would definitely be on order.

Jay

I am thinking, I am thinking, I am thinking. But I would need to decide soon. Its tough to get off of work in July and August unless you submit early. especially since we are losing personnel and there will be noone to replace them.