Beginner Trad Rack

[eddogg12]

I know this questions is commonly asked on alot of different climbing boards and after searching around the common answer I find is "depends on where your climbing etc..." I have been recently climbing in the gym alot and have some of the basics. Shoes, chalk, bag, biner's, belay device etc. However, as I gain experience I would obviously like to take it outdoors. In the meantime I would like to start building a Trad rack piece by piece.

....I guess my question is....Where do I start? I figure passive Nuts, hexes etc.... But does anyone have an idea some experience with what works well. Like "BD Stopper's 1-10, double up on this one etc." I would like eventually climb some routes in the Adirondacks, Gunks and so on. I know we have some climbers on the board, what's in your Rack? Is there alot of Sport routes in the Dacks, that you climb? Thanks for the help!

 

[AOC-1]

rockclimbing.com has a number of long threads on starting a trad rack (newbies section).

You'll get as many opinions as there are climbers. But in general, you can't go wrong with a set of stoppers (#3 - 13), and a full set of good quality cams. IMO BD Camalots are the gold standard (common to carry sizes up to a blue #3). I back up the most commonly placed ones (fingers to hand-sized - e.g., purple, green, red) with Metolius cams, which are also excellent quality. Hexes are not as popular as they once were (fidgety to place and clean), although I usually keep the largest two sizes in my pack in case I'm climbing a route that takes large pro.

 

[eddogg12]

So the BD stoppers, I would most commonly use sizes 3-13? Should I buy them individually (cheaper) or get the set 1-13? Are sizes 1 and 2 not really commonly placed? and with the BD Cams .3 all the way up to #3 Blue?

 

[AOC-1]

So the BD stoppers, I would most commonly use sizes 3-13? Should I buy them individually (cheaper) or get the set 1-13? Are sizes 1 and 2 not really commonly placed? and with the BD Cams .3 all the way up to #3 Blue?

Very small stoppers (1 & 2) are used for aid climbing (body weight only). It's usually cheaper to buy the set, instead of individual pieces. Go slow building your rack. Climb with other people's equipment and see what you like (and need).

 

[Woody]

Another place to ask this question would be on neclimbs.com. This is especially a good site to go to if you plan to climb in the White Mountains.

I started with BD stoppers, 3-13 as well as BD camalots 0.3 to 3.0.
A half dozen shoulder length slings and a dozen biners would also be good to add. Get a BD nut tool. It doubles as a bottle opener for the post climb beer.

 

[Chip]

II would like eventually climb some routes in the Adirondacks, Gunks and so on.

I'm maybe 6-12 months ahead of you on "the climbing curve". After the gym you'll probably be primarily top roping. Setting proper anchors is the skill there; webbing, static rope, knots, prussicks, cordalette, biners - not alot of actual hardware needed initially. You can add hardware slowly as you progress. Take a Top Rope Anchor workshop somewhere. AMC occasionally has free ones or you can pay EMS.

 

[Halite]

Tricams are also highly useful in this area--especially the pink and red ones.

More important than the rack, of course, is the know-how to place the gear properly. How do you know a piece is placed properly? You never know for sure until you've fallen on it, and then it might be too late.

Maybe I'm stating what is already obvious to you: don't start out leading with your own rack anytime soon. Follow an experienced leader and see how he or she works. As you clean his or her gear, you'll learn a bit about good placements. With your rack, you can still learn a lot by building anchors all over the place at ground level to see what works and what doesn't.

 

[TCD]

The above advice looks good. In the adirondacks, it seems like there are a lot of placements for stoppers in the 1/2" area (I use WC Rocks, and place #5 a lot). You will also needs lots of biners; they will represent almost half of your investment. I splurge on Petzl Spirits. Great action, notchless gate. You'll need lockers too; lots of choices depending on preference.

I especially agree with Chip (and Halite). Learn the skills; focus on that. The equipment selection is secondary, even though I understand that you are trying to get ahead by accumulating it over time.

(Concern: Gym climbers making the transition to outdoors can get hurt or killed. This is especially true when making the transition to Trad leading. Of the popular flavors of climbing, trad leading is the most risky; in fact it's a flat out dangerous activity. I'm concerned that you might not have a guide, instructor, mentor or friend to help with this transition. Take your time learning to lead, and make sure you take courses, or have one of the above to help. When I learned to lead trad there were no gyms. I climbed with a friend who was an experienced trad leader. I put in a full season top roping, and was able to top rope 5.9 consistently, before I started trying to learn to lead. My friend was kind enough to coach me for a while. Then, even though the routes were very easy, I worked my way up one grade at a time, over the following summer, starting with 5.3. I also stuck to G rated routes. Be careful!)

TCD

 

[eddogg12]

Thanks for the reply's. I definitely don't plan on leading trad. anytime soon, or even without a mentor (experienced leader) for a long time. I guess maybe I should be focusing on finding an experienced person to lead and set up the top rope for me. Rather than worrying about exactly what cams I should get. etc...

...I have a long way to go, and I just figured that with some gear already purchased maybe I could bring something to the table and work with my own gear in conjuction with a lead mentor. I think my transition from the gym is going to be finding an experienced partner and worrying about top-roping outdoors.

 

[Chip]

I think that the skills progression spectrum goes something like;
- gym climbing, lessons
- being belayed on a top rope and belaying
(now you buy biners, static and dynamic rope, webbing, cord)
- learning how to set up anchors with webbing and static rope on natural anchors (trees, rocks)
- learning and practicing self rescue; ascending and decending the rope
(now you buy some hardware)
- setting top rope anchors "artificially" with your new hardware
- following a traditional lead
(now you buy more hardware)
- leading

Or something like that.

 

[LarryB]

I agree with Chip, Halite, & TCD...when you are ready to move outside, buy a helmet and find some experienced climbers to learn from (also consider courses with the climbing scools around- in my opinion the ones I took in N. Conway were well worth the money).

Learning proper anchor, rope, and other safety techniques is obviously very important, but as you progress you will also learn what types of gear you personally prefer, before spending a fortune.

 

[eddogg12]

Chip, Thanks for the heads up on the life cycle of a climber. But in all seriousness, That does sounds like a good approach. Once I feel completely comfortable in the gym, I think I'm going to need to look for an easy single pitch route that maybe I can hike and set up some bomber anchors and work a top-rope setup. get me comfortable outdoors, then start searching for an experienced leader I can "piggy-back" so to speak.

 

[TCD]

A good learning tool is to lead a route, while still being belayed on a top rope. Two belayers, or one agile belayer, can manage the two ropes. If you want, you can leave enough slack in the top rope to provide an SLF (simulated leader fall) and test your gear, while still being protected from grounding out. Caveat and Disclaimer: Of course there are safety hazards involved in any fall, and I'm not recommending imitating Dan Osman. Good luck. Trad leading is a lot of fun and an accomplishment. Even after you are solid at a grade, it still provides a thrill.

TCD

 

[blacklab2020]

Something I dont think is emphasized here enough is that books and reading will only get you so far and yes experience is good, but proper instuction is KEY. Take a class or two outdoors to begin with (to get the basics...) Then when you are ready, hire a guide for the day or weekend (following on multi-pitch climbs). Having them teach you, one on one, specifics is a great way to learn little tricks and tips as you go. Being able to follow comfortably and 'in-the-know' on multi-pitch routes opens a door in the possibilities of climbing partners and instills confidence about your abilities in your partners.

Climbing with a guide also permits you to taylor the lessons to the type of climbing you are interested in. Whereas a course may limit you or divert the focus.

Good luck.