Hemlocks, Laurels, and No False Peaks: 3 days on the CT AT

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Early Bird

Active member
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Location
Hollis, Conway
I got back late Monday night from a wonderful three days on the CT Appalachian Trail. Chip did a nice job recapping Saturday’s hike in his trip report. Jug End Road to Sage's Ravine All I would add to segue into the rest of my backpacking trip is that Saturday’s hike would include the most people I’d see in the next couple of days.
After parting ways at Sage’s Ravine, I changed from trail runners which I normally hike in to Crocs for the fording of icy waters. Snow lingered in the ravine, adding to the variety of this warm day’s hike. At Bear Mountain I met another hiker with whom I walked back to his departure point, the Undermountain Trail, then continued to Riga.
Three men were in Riga. Gear was strewn everywhere. “Are some people tenting around here too?” I asked. Nope. It was all theirs. The amount of provisions and cooking supplies they’d brought in looked like more than I had in my entire kitchen. They admitted to over packing and cooking gourmet food. I’m not sure if they were kidding when they told me they had peeled potatoes before I arrived. They were fun folks from not too far from my home town who hiked many of the same lesser known trails as I had. That evening we shared port, joked, and laughed. It was a warm 54 °.
Near sunset I heard a woodcock “Preet” and whiz skyward. I stood on the stairs of the shelter and looked up until I lost my balance and fell backwards, but never did see him. Other than him, hairy woodpeckers were busy chiseling out nest holes. And the clear night sky allowed us views of Venus as well as many constellations. Aside from the woodcock and woodpeckers, that evening I heard a distant barred owl, chickadees, robins, crow, phoebes, winter wrens, hermit thrush, and flickers.
In the morning I did catch the sunrise colors linear on the horizon change from red to muted warm hues while enjoying raspberry green tea from my cozy sleeping bag. There is no better way to start the day. By 6:30 I was on the trail heading south through the rest of CT.
A 40 degree morning soon gave way to a pleasant 70 degree day. I always find it hard to recap a 20+ mile day. Here are some highlights:
 Remembering one result of backpacking- losing all sense of urgency. Put one foot in front of the other and sooner or later you will arrive to where you need to be. At the same time you are always right where you want to be.
 Listening to the “clucking” wood frogs and tiny high-pitched peepers and knowing they proclaim spring’s arrival
 Watching countless hermit thrushes leave their foraging spots on the forest floor and perch on trailside shrubs.
 Hearing the warning of the Pileated woodpecker before he darts off towards a far away tree.
 The drumming of the grouse, anticipating the startling flutter as they are flushed away from their daily doings. None were flushed out this trip.
 The deer as they freeze, then high tail it out of sight.

I journaled at my Sunday ten o’clock break while lounging at Rand’s View. “Fairly ordinary birds abound. I suppose the wave of migration hasn’t hit yet as the trees haven’t yet leafed out. I hear robins, hairies, titmouses, blue jay, sapsuckers, chickadees, and song sparrows. This morning I saw a fish crow and two deer, plus the pileated. Right now there are three deer in the distant meadow, also feeding. I can see them excellently through my monocular. Never is a break any regular day this good, aye.”
Sunday I arrived at my preset destination at 4:30. No one was there. I had only seen one section hiker, Raiman, earlier in the day- he said he didn’t like CT so far. Too many ups and downs. This always kills me. It’s the AT. I could recommend a nice walk through a suburban park if this isn’t what you were expecting. I tried to point out some nice parts. “Didn’t you like that flat walk along the Housatonic River?”
“No,” he said. “It was too wet and I had to keep watching my step to not get into the mud.”
Oh well. He said that was a couple of days ago. Maybe it would be drier when I get there tomorrow, I thought. I also saw two day hikers and two nice people at the Great Falls with whom I marveled at the fierceness of the waters there. Certainly no precocious baby ducks paddling around this time. A little bit later I arrived at the hydroelectric plant, filled up on fresh water, snacked, waved at the passing cyclists. Beautiful day. Forgot to look for CT rose quartz until after Belter’s. Saw some, but not a ton. Belter’s Bump is a nice rest spot. So was Billy’s view where peepers were heard in the valley.
The register at Pine Swamp was in shambles, but I did my best to reorder the pages and see if there was anyone I knew in there. Found Red Dane and Duck Tape. After about an hour, knowing no one was likely to show up there, I decided to move on to Caesar Brook and camp. Might as well use my tent and it’s always nice to stay at a new spot. Doing this I figured, too, might have me home Monday night instead of Tuesday. It would mean a 25 mile day tomorrow. Or a 22 mile day and a measly 3 mile hike out Tuesday morning. I’d play it by ear.
Monday was a bit of a killer- hot, hot, hot. It got to at least 82 and with the trees still bare there was little shaded relief. I very much enjoyed the hemlock groves, and I at least twice longed to be back at the hydroelectric plant where I could take advantage of their free outside shower. Climbing St. John’s Ledges I felt like I was back in the Grand Canyon in August. I think it was there I decided I would definitely hitch into Kent just to buy a cold drink. The second car going by took me in. I bought and glugged a liter of Powerade and a liter of water in less than 5 minutes, then began hitching back. Eight cars later I was picked up and back on the trail. Less than 15 minutes spent in town, perfect! I definitely didn't drink enough for the heat we had and miles I walked. In all I drank more than four liters.
Some other Monday highlights:
 The Housatonic River walk: merganser mates and Eastern towhee. A warbler that I have to look up at home. Blue-winged? Who arrives early already yellow with a thin black eye stripe? Song sparrows.
 More deer, along the gravel road just past the river and at the swampy area after Caleb’s Peak.
 I heard so many Hairy Woodpeckers this trip I think I’ve learned to identify them by their hammering! With review I’ll keep them Piliated and sapsuckers apart.
 The black squirrel! It was the size of a squirrel and black, with a thinner tail that it didn’t twitch the way grey squirrels do. It took off in a different manner from typical squirrels. Usually a squirrel will circle up the trunk of a tree and sit there rather tamely. This thing shot straight up the tree, traversed tree limb to tree limb without jumping to the tip of the evergreen branch that I was surprised held its weight, and finally onto another tree, up, and out of sight. Neat little being.
 Ten Mile River and Campsite. I was tired by now. It would have taken equal effort to cook and set up camp as it would have to walk the last three mile (and up only one more little hill). After a short shoe off break, I decided to keep walking.
 The raccoon I saw scamper across the trail and up to a lateral tree branch, a benefit of hiking when shadows grow long. I’d not before noticed the rusty colors in its striped tail. I thought it was black and white.
 The sleepy sun at Ten Mile Hill, still an hour before dark, but in light orange glow.

And so ended a great hike through Connecticut. This time I’ll remember it for the treasured hemlocks, the bountiful laurel though not yet in bloom, and the lack of false peaks. I noticed whenever I thought I was getting to the top, I was, and usually a slight breeze rewarded my work. On the drive home I stopped for a banana split and large chocolate milk. I’m already looking forward to my next backpacking trip, slightly less than two months away.
 
Great trail report! An enjoyable read. I appreciate the emphasis on the wildlife. Wowa Blue wing already.
:D (a grin and green with envy)
 
Good report. You made great time without missing a thing (except the wood ducks and that exposure of rose quartz, I guess. ;) ) Did you abide by the detour ?
 
Chip said:
Good report. You made great time without missing a thing (except the wood ducks and that exposure of rose quartz, I guess. ;) ) Did you abide by the detour ?
Yeah, too bad I didn't see any wood ducks. I couldn't remember which body of water you suggested I be careful going by. I did go by the train wreck this time and found it interesting. In the next register I wanted to write, "Detour the detour!" so more people would go by that way, but I wasn't thinking about it when I rested there. I took a tiny piece of rose quartz home to add to my water fountain at home. (Twinge of guilt for not taking nothing but pictures.) I found it on a gravel road, not in the woods. :)

Puck said:
Wowa Blue wing already.
That's my best guess, not convinced that I'll check it off the life list yet. I listened to the song driving home and looked it up yesterday. I suppose it wouldn't kill me to hike with my guide book. Actually, yes it would, at least when I'm backpacking it would.
 
Nice TR, and don't forget to give yourself credit for the nearly 10 miles you did before even reaching Connecticut !
One thing though....If Raiman had trouble with the "mud" along the Housatonic, what's he going to do when he gets to Vermont ? ;)

Dave
 
Not only did I miss Giant's Thumb, but I never saw any rose Quartz OR the " glacial pothole " up on Race. :eek: Did see some fantastic views though !

Dave
 
Unhappy hiker "Rain Man"

Early Bird, I had to laugh when I read your account of meeting Rain Man and listening to him complain about Connecticut.

On Monday 4/23 I was hiking north of Guilder Pond and doing trail maintenance as I went along - mostly throwing stuff off the trail. I met Rain Man towards the end of the day, about 1/4 mile from Hemlocks Shelter, as I was working my way back.
He said he'd camped at Riga the night before.
Our conversation went like this:

Rain Man: "I thought Pennsylvania was the ugliest part of the trail, but Massachusets has changed my mind."
Me (astonished): "I don't know what to say. Around here people think that the Riga Plateau is one of the prettiest places around. Once you get over Lion's Head it's really just ridge walking. You didn't enjoy that?"
Rain Man: "No."
Me: "Well, it's early for the maintainers to be out. One week ago we had snow and flooding from the Nor'easter up here."
Rain Man: "It doesn't have anything to do with maintenance. It's the way the trail is laid out. They bring you straight up every hill and down every gully. The climb up Mt. Everett is all rocks."
Me: "That's part of the section I maintain...the AMC wants it that way so there's less erosion."
Rain Man: "Why do they have to go up every mountain?"
Me: "Well, most people like views and that's where the views are."

He was so down on the AT that I felt like telling him he could get a bus back home from Great Barrington. Instead, I was determinedly cheerful.

"Enjoy your hike," I said.
"I'm going to Dalton; I hope the trail gets better," was the last thing he said.

Not that I have a lot of experience hiking, but his gloomy outlook was a first for me.
 
Trudy,
What a coincidence! That's really funny: how he was still so down on the trail and that we both took the same approach in trying to point out what we felt most people would enjoy. Section hikers spend a lot of time, effort, and money getting back and forth to different parts of the east coast. I'm amazed he does this yet finds it all so unenjoyable.
Thanks for sharing, and thanks for volunteering to keep the trail nice.
 
Excellent pics! Especially of Ceasar Brook campsite :D

...I stayed there a long time ago and had a pretty wet night :) Very interesting and memorable.
 
really good pics, nice job. who's the old dude in the yellow capilene though ?

ps: I think those you've tagged as Sages are the ones you took of Bear Rock Falls before I split. no ?
 
Last edited:
Chip said:
really good pics, nice job. who's the old dude in the yellow capilene though ?
I don't know who that is, but he was a pretty good hiker. ;)

Chip said:
ps: I think those you've tagged as Sages are the ones you took of Bear Rock Falls before I split. no ?
You're right! Thanks.
 
chip is that you? I didn't recognize you without your snowshoes on.
 
Rain Man said:
"It doesn't have anything to do with maintenance. It's the way the trail is laid out. They bring you straight up every hill and down every gully. The climb up Mt. Everett is all rocks."
...
"I'm going to Dalton; I hope the trail gets better,"
Lucky he isn't going to VT or NH :)

Trudy said:
Not that I have a lot of experience hiking, but his gloomy outlook was a first for me.
Earl Shaffer, one of the first thru-hikers back when much of the AT was on old roads, repeated it recently after retirement and said the new route was too hard.

The Pacific Crest Trail was laid out so most of it can be traveled year-round by pack stock, hence it rarely hits summits.

Depends on whether you want peaks or easy walking where the miles come easier.
 
RoySwkr said:
The Pacific Crest Trail was laid out so most of it can be traveled year-round by pack stock, hence it rarely hits summits.
I'd find circumnavigating the peaks as depressing as Rainman found his hike.
I wonder what that dude loves...
 
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