Tramping in New Zealand

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poison ivy

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Mansfield, MA Avatar: Mt. Whitney, CA
(I hope it’s ok to post these non-New England trip reports… if not feel free to delete them!)

My husband & I just got back from a two-week trip to New Zealand, where we did two backpacking trips the Route burn & the Abel Tasman Coastal tracks. Pictures from the hikes can be found here.

Day 1: Tuesday, March 2: After an hour-long bus ride, we hop off at the eastern end of the Routeburn trail and cross a number of swing bridges over the green and foamy Routeburn. The first half of today’s 5.5 mile follows a dirt path through the forest, along the banks of the river, which collects in teal colored pools and zips through rocky sections. At Bridal Veil Falls, Dave stops to watch “canyoneers” who are jumping into the falls and floating down the river. I hike on a bit to wait in the sun near the first views of dark green, tree-covered hills. Dave catches up with me by the time we get to Routeburn Flats -- grassy fields surrounded by views of the snow-capped Humbolt Mountains, where we stop and have lunch. From there, the trail drives steeply uphill for about 3 kilometers, providing us with stunning views from an 1994 avalanche site of the Routeburn snaking through a green valley and the Humbolts. We climb 270 meters over 3 kilometers before reaching the Routeburn Falls hut, our destination for the night. After picking a bunk and getting settled, we hike up to the multi-tiered Routeburn Falls, which is rushing strongly due to all the recent rains.

Day 2: March 3: There are not enough words in my universe to describe today’s hike -- it was just incredible, amazing, spectacular. We head up past the falls once again on a 1 ½ hour morning consititutional walk to the source of the Routeburn-- Lake Harris -- by tramping around the rim of a mossy green valley filled with little waterfalls. Nearly at the crest of a hill, we can see the cobalt blue waters of the Lake and clouds swirling around the peaks of the surrounding mountains. Turning a corner, my breath is literally taken away as we catch our first glimpse of Harris Saddle. The tri-angular Harris Saddle Shelter, is set in a grassy field and is surrounded a line of snow-capped peaks in the Darren Mountain Range. After lunch, we start a two-hour ridge walk on the Hollyford Face. Every twist and turn of the trail brings yet another beautiful mountain into view from across the Hollyford Valley. The skies were so clear we could see all the way into Martin’s Bay at one point by looking behind us. After our ridgewalk, we climb uphill to a small bluff and we can see the emerald waters of Lake Mackenzie and the hut below us. It take a knee-pounding hour to descend to the hut along a series of switchbacks. Dave swims in the glacial lake for about two minutes, I couldn’t get in back my ankles. We spend the rest of the day sunning ourselves on rocks across the lake at views of Emily Peak. An amazing day!

Day 3: March 4: A relaxing day ahead of us, we only have a three-hour hike to Howden Hut today. We leave Lake Mackenzie and hut uphill for about 45 minutes until we reach “the orchard” an area loaded with what look like apple trees, but are actually ribbonwoods. The orchard has a clearing where we can once again see the Darren Mountains, especially Pyramid Peak. Near the orchard, Dave is surprised by an owl that swoops down by his head -- the first we have ever seen in the wild. After taking a few pictures, we quickly make our way to Earland Falls -- a huge waterfall that speeds 80 meters off a cliff face. After heavy rains it rushes so fast that trampers can’t cross in front of it. We get hit by the spray but have no problem crossing. We soon reach Lake Howden and its hut and spend the rest of the day soaking in the sun near a gurgling stream.

Day 4: Up early for a one-hour walk to the Divide, the lowest east-west crossing in the Southern Alps because we have to catch a bus to Milford Sound for a kayaking trip. Leaving at 6:30 a.m., we start our hike by headlamp, keeping our eyes out for the nocturnal kiwi bird, but we don’t manage to see any. It is sprinkling when we leave the hut and head uphill for about 15 minutes. The rest of the trail slopes through the woods in a series of switchbacks. The rain clears up as we reach the Divide and the end of our hiking trip.
 
Abel Tasman hike report

Abel Tasman hike: (4 days)
Day 1: Wed., Feb. 25 -- We have gorgeous beach weather for our first day of tramping -- just an easy 7.1 miles to Anchorage hut. The trail begins on a boardwalk crossing a pretty estuary and quickly winds through the woods to bluffs overlooking sandy beaches and pretty bays. We stop in Appletree Bay for some lunch alongside a dozen kayakers but find the water too cold for swimming. After lunch, we wander through a shady forest canopy with silver ferns opening like umbrellas above us. After reaching the crest of a ridge, we are treated to beautiful views of Torrent Bay and a steep decent to Anchorage Beach, where our hut is located. After snagging two bunks in the hut, we spend the rest of the day lounging on the beach soaking up the sun. I get up in the evening to check out the Southern Hemisphere’s stars -- they don’t disappoint -- I can even see sprinklings of cosmic dust among them.

Day 2: Thursday. Feb. 26 -- A super easy day -- just a six mile hike to Bark Bay hut. We get up early because Torrent Bay has to be crossed during low-tide, which is at 8:30 ish. Even though the tide is out, we still have to take off our shoes to walk through a few icy pools, carefully stepping around the snail shells and hermit crab holes. The views weren’t as stunning today because we had cloudy weather, so our favorite part of the day is crossing the rickety swing bridge over Falls River. We arrive at Bark Bay hut before lunch, giving me time to watch the estuary in front of the hut fill with water while eating. Later on, the tide as the tide flows back out, I went wading among knee-deep pools and capture pictures of the birds living along the shore.

Day 3: Friday, Feb. 27: Today, we are hiking a 7.1 miles to Aworoa hut, our final overnight spot. We get up early once again to cross the estuary at low-tide. I manage to get water in one of my Goretex boots and then stupidly decide to crash through a knee-deep pool so they are both soaked. I slosh around in wet boots all day and stop to wring my socks out three times. From the estuary, we climb uphill until reaching Tonga Quarry. The beach there is littered with squared off stones, left over from when the quarry was still in use. We then hiked down Onehaphuti beach -- which curves along for about a kilometer so we walk with our barefeet in the surf.. The clouds are swirling ominously around the hills overlooking the beach, so we’re sure we’re in for rain today. After stopping at a beach café for lunch, we attempt to cross Venture Creek even though the signs say it will be raging too fast so close to high-tide. We find it to be only a trickle and easily make it to Awaroa Hut. We’re among the first there since we took the short cut over Venture Creek -- everyone else took the longer path through the woods in order to avoid it. The downpour starts at around 6 p.m.

Day 4: Fourteen hours later, the downpour continues and Awaroa Bay is filled with water at low-tide. There is no way to get to the trail except to cross the bay. Grant, the hut warden said we could either try getting through the waist-deep water to continue on the track or head ½ hour back to yesterday’s café and catch a bus from there. Of the 20 people in the hut, only Dave, me and one other woman decide to cross the bay. Partway through the crossing, I laugh when I look back and see everyone out on the hut porch watching us cross. The current is very strong and knocks me off my feet -- fortunately I land on my hands and knees on a sandbar so my pack stays dry. We made it safety across the bay in about 20 minutes and this turns out to be Dave’s favorite part of the hike. We are completely soaked from head to toe but the forest is beautiful in the rain. Pound Creek is swollen and muddy and the ocean roars like a freight-train with waves up to five feet tall. We end the hike at Totaranui and hop on a bus after discovering our water taxi has been canceled due to the storm. Most of the bus passengers turn out to be others from Awaroa Hut who caught the same bus at the café! Overall, it was a fun hike… though the weather didn’t exactly cooperate with our beach plans!
 
Jealousjealousjealousjealousjealous...

Great stories and fabulous pictures - thank you for sharing! And how off-topic could they be, if you saw the Darren Mountains?
:)
 
Awesome! You've reinforced my resolve to get to New Zealand before I die - all the pictures I've seen make it look like paradise.
 
It looks like you had an awesome time, the pictures are stunning. Thanks for sharing.
 
Looks like a great trip. The Routeburn area reminds me of Lord of the Rings -- was that filmed nearby?
 
el-bagr: There are Lord of the Rings sites all over the place, though there apparently isn't anything left from the actual filming as Jackson was required to remove everything as soon as filming was finished.

If memory serves, the Edoras scenes were filmed in the Southern Alps, which is in the same general area as the Routeburn. I picked up some of those tourist-type newspapers that had info on what scenes were filmed where, but I can't find it now... I may have tossed it.

- Ivy
 
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