Pete Hogan
New member
I awoke at 5:23 AM to the sound of a locomotive train whistle. It was quite loud, and…what would a train be doing up here? I threw on a layer and went out to the dining room to see if I could locate the train. The trees surrounding the hut were swaying from the powerful winds that had arrived sometime during the night. I went outside and climbed the sunset rock next to the hut and witnessed the drastic change in the weather as the summit of Garfield was shrouded in rapidly moving storm clouds. The sky was a marbled shade of grayish-white and the temperature had dropped severely since yesterday. From the top of the rock, I could easily ascertain the origin of the train whistle. On the rooftop of the hut was a wind generator shaped like a mini-torpedo. As wind gusts increased in velocity and duration, the howling whistle of the generator increased in decibels and duration. We were to learn at breakfast that winds were expected in the 25-40 MPH range for that day, along with rain, fog, low visibility and stormy conditions.
The group decided that the safest hiking option for the day would be to climb South Twin and descend over North Twin via the North Twin Trail to the car we had spotted at the North Twin Trailhead. The Bonds would have to wait for another day. It was a wise choice for as we stepped off the front porch of Galehead Hut at 9:05 AM, cold, biting winds and horizontal rain assaulted us. All the way up the steep, rocky and now treacherous Twinway Trail, we heard the howling of the wind generator somewhere in the dismal mist and swirling fog below.
At timberline of South Twin (10:10 AM), we became totally exposed to the violent weather conditions. We positioned each other as human cairns to help safely traverse the tempestuous summit and locate the North Twin Spur Trail. By connecting the ghostly figures of each member of our group across the windswept, foggy summit, we were able to safely keep the group together and begin our descent toward North Twin. We were already wet from the relentless rain and quickly became soaked from the flooded trail and waterlogged balsams. The cold was beginning to set in and despite meticulous waterproofing efforts, our boots started to squish as we slowly and carefully crossed the ridge.
Pressing on, we reached the North Twin summit as the strong winds nearly blew us over. As disappointed as we were not to have our good fortune with weather continue for one more day, we were excited and stimulated from this wet, windy and wild experience. The extreme weather, harsh and challenging environment and our resiliency to handle whatever Mother Nature was serving further bonded the group and added to the great adventure.
There is great personal satisfaction knowing that you are able to not merely survive, but also achieve unthinkable goals under adverse and extreme circumstances. More often than not, the best-intentioned trip planning can be compromised by sudden and unpredictable weather conditions. Wise, experienced hikers usually don’t go looking for trouble, but they are a hardy lot and they know that preparation for extreme weather and the ability to persevere in less than optimal conditions is part of the responsibility when venturing into wild places. It is times like these that foster self-confidence, personal resolve and physical, mental and emotional toughness. The personal challenge of being able to cope with extreme weather conditions also creates a lasting bond between kindred spirits and an enduring pride in each other. Indeed, we marveled at the first two glorious days of remarkable weather and extraordinary mountain scenery, but the challenge of climbing South and North Twin in such extreme weather conditions will remain one of the highlights of this White Mountain adventure.
Shortly after leaving the South Twin summit, we decided to send two members of the group ahead so they could take the car that was spotted at the trailhead back to Lafayette Place and retrieve an additional car. This strategy allowed the entire group to be transported at the same time rather than half the group waiting at the trailhead to car shuttle. This contingency surfaced in case anyone needed the safety and relief of immediate warmth, shelter and transportation upon our return to the parking area.
It wasn’t long after we left the summit of North Twin that the weather started to improve. First the rain stopped. Then the skies brightened and the storm clouds dissipated and finally, we began to feel the warmth of the sun once again. How many times has that happened on a hike? After enduring the harshest weather conditions, slogging through mud hole after mud hole - barely being able to see your hand in front of you, let alone any view on a summit - sunny skies and warm temperatures return, but only on your way back to the car. I’ve often thought that is just Mother Nature’s way of reminding outdoor adventurers that despite all the expensive technical gear, personal resolve, determination and independence, she is still in control and simply wants to let you know who’s in charge.
With each downward step, the skies gradually cleared, and by the time we reached the first of three Little River crossings, we had removed our rain gear. The improved weather brightened our sprits and added a little bounce to our steps. Six and one-half hours after stepping off the front porch of Galehead Hut we arrived safely at the North Twin trailhead on Haystack Road. We were happily greeted by the two members of our group who had gone ahead to bring an additional vehicle back to the trailhead. Although not needed now for the original intention, we were nevertheless relieved that we could all fit into both vehicles without having to lengthen this day any further due to a single car shuttle. Our White Mountains adventure had ended. We were happy, tired, slightly wounded, a little chaffed, -- but above all else proud of what we had accomplished and thankful for our safe return to civilization.
We dined that evening at Woodstock Station. Most of us were relieved to see that Kippers were not on the menu. There was much laughter and good will at the table. I remember not wanting the closeness of this fellowship to end. Along with the spontaneity and humor of the group was a genuine sentiment of mutual respect and admiration. It was that undeniable warmth of friendship clearly born from the experience we had just shared. A lasting bond that only a journey of this dimension could build. I enjoyed this group immensely. It is a credit to their cooperation with each other, their compassion for each other and their commitment to each other that we experienced so much enjoyment and success. We even discussed a return trip next summer for the Bonds.
One of the many benefits of mountain hiking that is rarely underestimated, especially by hikers who have risen above the “peak bagging” mentality, is what it does for understanding oneself. In addition, the trust, respect and responsibility engendered for individuals and the group offers one of life’s most validating and gratifying experiences. That is what makes hiking so fulfilling for the human spirit. The mountains consistently provide a variety of life experiences ranging from the ordinary to extraordinary. The magnitude of the physical, psychological and spiritual benefits derived from mountain hiking never ceases to amaze me. For such a relatively minor personal and financial investment, the return is immeasurable.
John Muir had it right when he said so eloquently, “Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. Keep close to Nature’s heart and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.”
We experienced all of that and much more on this White Mountains adventure. We stayed as long as we could to enjoy each other’s company and conversation, but we knew we had to start for home. With a long trip ahead of us including an early evening, prime time cautious drive through moose country, we wanted to reach the relative safety of the Vermont border and Interstate 91without incident.
Hugs were exchanged and good-byes expressed. Although this chapter had ended, we looked forward to another time when we could be together again.
End of Part 3.
The group decided that the safest hiking option for the day would be to climb South Twin and descend over North Twin via the North Twin Trail to the car we had spotted at the North Twin Trailhead. The Bonds would have to wait for another day. It was a wise choice for as we stepped off the front porch of Galehead Hut at 9:05 AM, cold, biting winds and horizontal rain assaulted us. All the way up the steep, rocky and now treacherous Twinway Trail, we heard the howling of the wind generator somewhere in the dismal mist and swirling fog below.
At timberline of South Twin (10:10 AM), we became totally exposed to the violent weather conditions. We positioned each other as human cairns to help safely traverse the tempestuous summit and locate the North Twin Spur Trail. By connecting the ghostly figures of each member of our group across the windswept, foggy summit, we were able to safely keep the group together and begin our descent toward North Twin. We were already wet from the relentless rain and quickly became soaked from the flooded trail and waterlogged balsams. The cold was beginning to set in and despite meticulous waterproofing efforts, our boots started to squish as we slowly and carefully crossed the ridge.
Pressing on, we reached the North Twin summit as the strong winds nearly blew us over. As disappointed as we were not to have our good fortune with weather continue for one more day, we were excited and stimulated from this wet, windy and wild experience. The extreme weather, harsh and challenging environment and our resiliency to handle whatever Mother Nature was serving further bonded the group and added to the great adventure.
There is great personal satisfaction knowing that you are able to not merely survive, but also achieve unthinkable goals under adverse and extreme circumstances. More often than not, the best-intentioned trip planning can be compromised by sudden and unpredictable weather conditions. Wise, experienced hikers usually don’t go looking for trouble, but they are a hardy lot and they know that preparation for extreme weather and the ability to persevere in less than optimal conditions is part of the responsibility when venturing into wild places. It is times like these that foster self-confidence, personal resolve and physical, mental and emotional toughness. The personal challenge of being able to cope with extreme weather conditions also creates a lasting bond between kindred spirits and an enduring pride in each other. Indeed, we marveled at the first two glorious days of remarkable weather and extraordinary mountain scenery, but the challenge of climbing South and North Twin in such extreme weather conditions will remain one of the highlights of this White Mountain adventure.
Shortly after leaving the South Twin summit, we decided to send two members of the group ahead so they could take the car that was spotted at the trailhead back to Lafayette Place and retrieve an additional car. This strategy allowed the entire group to be transported at the same time rather than half the group waiting at the trailhead to car shuttle. This contingency surfaced in case anyone needed the safety and relief of immediate warmth, shelter and transportation upon our return to the parking area.
It wasn’t long after we left the summit of North Twin that the weather started to improve. First the rain stopped. Then the skies brightened and the storm clouds dissipated and finally, we began to feel the warmth of the sun once again. How many times has that happened on a hike? After enduring the harshest weather conditions, slogging through mud hole after mud hole - barely being able to see your hand in front of you, let alone any view on a summit - sunny skies and warm temperatures return, but only on your way back to the car. I’ve often thought that is just Mother Nature’s way of reminding outdoor adventurers that despite all the expensive technical gear, personal resolve, determination and independence, she is still in control and simply wants to let you know who’s in charge.
With each downward step, the skies gradually cleared, and by the time we reached the first of three Little River crossings, we had removed our rain gear. The improved weather brightened our sprits and added a little bounce to our steps. Six and one-half hours after stepping off the front porch of Galehead Hut we arrived safely at the North Twin trailhead on Haystack Road. We were happily greeted by the two members of our group who had gone ahead to bring an additional vehicle back to the trailhead. Although not needed now for the original intention, we were nevertheless relieved that we could all fit into both vehicles without having to lengthen this day any further due to a single car shuttle. Our White Mountains adventure had ended. We were happy, tired, slightly wounded, a little chaffed, -- but above all else proud of what we had accomplished and thankful for our safe return to civilization.
We dined that evening at Woodstock Station. Most of us were relieved to see that Kippers were not on the menu. There was much laughter and good will at the table. I remember not wanting the closeness of this fellowship to end. Along with the spontaneity and humor of the group was a genuine sentiment of mutual respect and admiration. It was that undeniable warmth of friendship clearly born from the experience we had just shared. A lasting bond that only a journey of this dimension could build. I enjoyed this group immensely. It is a credit to their cooperation with each other, their compassion for each other and their commitment to each other that we experienced so much enjoyment and success. We even discussed a return trip next summer for the Bonds.
One of the many benefits of mountain hiking that is rarely underestimated, especially by hikers who have risen above the “peak bagging” mentality, is what it does for understanding oneself. In addition, the trust, respect and responsibility engendered for individuals and the group offers one of life’s most validating and gratifying experiences. That is what makes hiking so fulfilling for the human spirit. The mountains consistently provide a variety of life experiences ranging from the ordinary to extraordinary. The magnitude of the physical, psychological and spiritual benefits derived from mountain hiking never ceases to amaze me. For such a relatively minor personal and financial investment, the return is immeasurable.
John Muir had it right when he said so eloquently, “Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. Keep close to Nature’s heart and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.”
We experienced all of that and much more on this White Mountains adventure. We stayed as long as we could to enjoy each other’s company and conversation, but we knew we had to start for home. With a long trip ahead of us including an early evening, prime time cautious drive through moose country, we wanted to reach the relative safety of the Vermont border and Interstate 91without incident.
Hugs were exchanged and good-byes expressed. Although this chapter had ended, we looked forward to another time when we could be together again.
End of Part 3.
