Whitney via Mountaineers Route?

[ADK4Life]

I want to take the mountaineer route up Whitney this summer. is it possible to find a place to leave camp and summit the next day? Is there any tales of theft? I would really like to scramble without heavy packs. Has anyone descended the Mountaineers Route? To this point the only Class 3 I have scrambled is Huntington Ravine, how much harder is this??

 

[sli74]

I'd be curious to answers to these questions as well. SherpaK has been tossing around the idea of ascending via this route and I am hoping I can join him on such a trip . . . . He might be able to post the map that he emailed me a while back, I will see if I can find that email and post it as well . . . .

sli74

 

[AOC]

I soloed the Mountaineer's Route from a high camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake. Round-trip from the lake was about 8 hours, with an hour or so on the summit. Iceberg Lake is higher and is also a popular camping spot, although it was frozen solid when I was there in early June 2000. The route is not difficult to ascend or descend. Proficiency with an ice axe is all that is required. However, a 200-yard (or so) traverse of a snowfield on the northwest side has tremendous exposure. There have been fatal falls from this spot, which is right after you have gained the top of the notch. It is best to cross this section when the snow is firm, so an alpine start is critical. On the hike in, follow the route description carefully to gain the 3rd class ledge system that will bring you to Lower Boy Scout Lake. I got off-route and it was not fun.

Plan to be below the East Face just as the sun rises and lights the mountain and Keeler Needle. One of the most sublime moments I've ever had in the mountains. And the single best photo I've ever taken. PM me if you have any questions.

 

[ADK4Life]

Have you climbed Washington via Huntington ravine? I am curious how guage the class 3. Regardless of Washingtons elevation I found Huntington to be alot of exposure. My girlfriend is a little worried about this class 3 after a bad day on Huntington and would like to know what I am getting myself into.

 

[dave.m]

We did the Mountaineers Route (including an unplanned variation of it) starting at Whitney Portal as a *day* hike. As in a 20 hour day. I wouldn't really recommend it but I do have very fond memories of it. Note, I had exceptionally strong partners including one who had summitted Whitney 3 times prior to our climb.

Most folks camp in the Boy Scout Lakes area. The USFS has really clamped down on camping restrictions. I think they dole permits out on a lottery based system, so you need to score a permit before you head up, even if you do the hairball day hike bit.

A word of caution... Boy Scout Lake is pretty durn high. High enough that altitude sickness can kick in. Be aware.

The climb up from Boy Scout comes in 2 phases. The first takes you up the couloir that stands out so prominently in the pictures of Whitney. What the pictures don't show is that the rocks are easy chair to sofa sized boulders, some of which teeter a bit. There's nothing quite like this on Washington. The rocks do engage the hands but it is light class 3.

The second phase it at the top of the couloir where the route turns left and to the south. You climb up ledges here and it is class 3 + by most accounts. Who am I to argue. The sensation of exposure is definitely much more than what you get on Huntington. Add to that the altitude headache and sick stomach.... it's very different.

In terms of gear being stolen, I wouldn't worry about it at Boy Scout lake. At least as much as any backcountry site. Folks who get up there are pretty commitmeted. There's a lot more traffic over at Iceberg Lake. The rangers can give you stats on crime over there. The scene at Iceberg struck me more like Hermit Lake.

Hope this helps,

Dave

 

[AOC-1]

Yes, I've climbed in Huntington ravine, but only in winter. The Mountaineer's Route is a Class 3 non-technical climb. In early season, the route will be mostly snow and you should not attempt it unless you are proficient with crampons and ice axe, especially self-arrest if you should slip on the traverse. In full summer, it is a rock scramble, with some possibility of snow patches or ice higher on the route. Here is a partial route description from High Sierra Climbing (Supertopo):

"While only rated 3rd class, this is not just a "hike" and many people have died by getting off-route or being unprepared in spring snow conditions. While technical climbing skills are not needed, routefinding and general mountain sense are important . . . The route changes dramatically in the winter, spring, and early summer when it is completely covered in snow. When this is the case, many climbers bring crampons, an ice axe, and rope. While the lower gully receives first light and is usually soft, the last 3rd class section rarely receives sun, is icy and has been the scene of many accidents and deaths. Either come prepared for ice or be ready to climb 4th class and easy 5th class to avoid the ice. Most will only want to do the route if it is free of snow, which happens in June or early July, depending on the snow year."

I know the "many accidents and deaths" part is unlikely to inspire confidence, but it is a great, non-technical route to the highest peak in the lower 48. It also avoids the crowds on the Muir trail. I saw no one on the way up, and had the summit to myself for over an hour. But if you don't have too much rock scrambling experience, and basic mountaineering skills, I'd wait to do this one. In addition to exposure, there are concerns about altitude sickness. You probably won't have fun on this route if you're not completely sure of your ability to climb it safely. - Al

 

[SherpaKroto]

I've only done initial looks into this, but it is something that I would LOVE to do. Her is a very rough map. Note that the start actually heads a bit further north than the map shows, then comes back. It is much shorter, much steeper, and a great alternative to the 11 mile slog (it's about 6 miles each way (maybe a bit shorter), but 6,100 feet of vertical. I'd be planning on doing it in 2-3 days (to allow for weather, and why rush?).

Here is a trip report with pictures that has some good information.

FWIW, my "other" wish list 14K is Shasta

 

[Peakbagr]

We climbed Whitney by the trade route from Whitney Portal. I can't address the Mountaineer's Route, but the elevation others have commented on should not be taken lightly. We spent a week and a half gradually building up to over 14,000' before doing the Whitney backpack. Our hike was a stroll because of acclimitizing. We saw lots of folks who went from sealevel to Whitney in 1 or 3 days. Most of them had blinding headaches, frowns and many were puking their guts up. Whichever route you select, enjoy California's high country and get your body used to the elevation before going high. With that, Whitney is a piece of cake.

 

[TCD]

We also climbed Whitney via the regular trail. We acclimatized on Tenaya (10K), then Dana (13K), then a rest day, and then Whitney. That worked pretty well. We were camping in Tuolomne, so we were sleeping at 8400, which didn't hurt.

Can't comment on the Mteers Route either. But I can say that at the point where the N Fork of Lone Pine creek departs, there is a fairly well worn herd path ("use trail" in CA lingo), that we could notice even by headlamp on our early start.

TCD

 

[Michael M]

A classic route!!

ADK4Life

I would not be concerned about theft at Iceberg lake (formerly East Face Lake I guess since it's almost always frozen they renamed it?) as there is not a lot of through traffic on this side of the mountain. Most peeps do out and backs up and down the MR or other technical climbs and descend the MR.

You can camp at the lake and the rangers will tell you the space is limited to about 12 campers. I must say that while they told me that we were using the last spots in fact there were only two other persons in the cirque!
Many people book this spot and don’t show -- I guess.
I have climbed this Mt. a number of times by various routes and plan to do it again with my daughters when they get a little older – It is a classic.

Coming from sea level I camped one night at the portal (8,300ft) with my son. We hiked into the IB Lake (12,500) in about 5 hours with light bivi gear. There are couple of “3rd class” spots on the hike in which are well documented in Walt Wheelocks book.
They are not hard just unexpected so you wonder if you are off route.
Dave M. account is accurate and the Rangers in town can give you good beta.

There are some short cuts into the couloir, and early exits, but the trad route is well described and more obvious. You need an axe if the couloir is in condition; we were there in October so ice was more of a problem than snow. With children I would not what to descend this route with out at least short roping. We bivied on the summit so this was not a problem. Two camp mates who got caught out on the east face tried to descend this un roped, reconsidered and then ask my son and I if we could toss their rope down to them so they could do a 60meter rap into the couloir.
That said it is very easy to down climb this route when clear of snow and ice. The couloirs can be safely glissaded with an axe and the down climb is generally unroped.

We hiked back the Whitney trail this was about 12 miles of switchbacks and tons of people.
I will do this route again as a traverse, but you need to travel light.
It would be hard to compare this route to anything in HR (depending on which route) but the 3rd class is very easy and progressive so there are no surprise and like most mountaineering it may look harder than it is.
I will look for some pictures


Michael

 

[Michael M]

Picture of the 3rd Class

ADK4Life

This is a pic of the 3rd class part the hardest move is getting out of the couloir (3rdClass.gif)

My son toping out much loose gravel and not a place to fall, his mother would kill me! (CMTop3rd2.gif

Summit Bivi, very cold (SumitMMCM.gif)

I hope this is helpful

Michael