Yosemite advice

[dentonfabrics]

Hi,

I've already searched the existing threads regarding Yosemite and picked up some great ideas for hikes and other things (yes, I'll be sure to get a fish taco at the Mobil station). But I still have a few questions;

1) Can anyone recommend a place to stay? I've heard nothing but bad reports about Curry Village and we wont be camping on this trip so we're looking for something reasonable either in or outside of the park. We're coming from Reno so the eastern entrance would be preferred but we're open to driving to the west side if necessary

2) Is it worth it to go to Kings Canyon or Sequoia Park for a day? We'll be in the Yosemite area for 3-4 days. Should we spend one of those days in Sequoia? What are the "dont misses" in that area?

3) Can you rent canoes for a quiet water paddle or is there a place that'll put you in a raft for a self-guided river trip?

We're going for 8 days in October - half in Reno/Tahoe, half in Yosemite. Hope the crowds are gone and the weather is good.


thx
bob

 

[Kevin Rooney]

bob -

If you're looking for motel accommodations, I'd stay in Lee Vining, which is the small town just north of the eastern entrance to Yosemite. There's a good website here to begin checking on places. When in October are you traveling? Keep in mind that winter can come early to the Eastern Sierra, and once Tioga Pass (the eastern entrance to Yosemite) closes things get rather quiet in those parts. I can recommend the Redwood Motel in Bridgeport, but that's really too far north to use as a base and I've not stayed in Lee Vining itself. And keep in mind the scale of California - it's a long drive from one side Yosemite to the other. The famous Mobil station closes in winter also. Do check out Mono Lake - it's a fascinating place in it's own right, and I've been told that John Muir's grand daughter has a restaurant just north of Lee Vining.

Kings Canyon or Sequoia are beautiful places as well, but ... again, CA is a big place, and you'll spend a day in the car just getting to and from them. Going to Yosemite, Kings Canyon and Sequoia NP in three days is a bit like saying "Let's tour Maine, NH and VT on a three day weekend" - doable, but a flyby.

If you're looking for a change of pace, consider Bodie ghost town state park. It's just north of Lee Vining, and is 13 miles off the main highway. It's been partially preserved, and a fascinating place to see how tough some of those miners and settlers were to live at altitude trying to make a living. It's about 1/2 day trip. We try to go about once a year - part of the allure is the jaw-dropping scenery of the drive on US395 thru the Eastern Sierra.

You won't be disappointed - from Lake Tahoe south it's a special part of the country.

 

[sapblatt]

bob -


If you're looking for a change of pace, consider Bodie ghost town state park. It's just north of Lee Vining, and is 13 miles off the main highway. It's been partially preserved, and a fascinating place to see how tough some of those miners and settlers were to live at altitude trying to make a living. It's about 1/2 day trip. We try to go about once a year - part of the allure is the jaw-dropping scenery of the drive on US395 thru the Eastern Sierra.

You won't be disappointed - from Lake Tahoe south it's a special part of the country.

I did the fly by version of Yosemite and I wish I had spent more time there - I hope to get back in the not to distant future.
Another vote for Bodie - Gail and I have always been real glad we stopped there - it is quite surreal.

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

If you stop by Bodie, also make a stop at Mono Lake. We hadn't planned on either when we were in Yosemite, but I'm really glad we made it to both (pictures of both are in this gallery ).

We've also spent time in the SEKI parks and really enjoyed it, but we were backpacking, so I'm not very familiar with day hikes there. I would echo the others in that staying in one place would maximize your "getting to do fun stuff time" rather than losing time to traveling.

I'm not sure what the crowds are like in October (hopefully for you, greatly diminished), but if there are any, get up as early as you can to beat the hordes. When we were there Yosemite Valley was super crowded and we found that getting up early helped us escape a little bit.

 

[DougPaul]

FWIW, I stayed at an acceptable motel (don't remember the name) in El Portal (on the west side) a number of years ago. Out of the Valley, but within easy driving distance.

Doug

 

[sapblatt]

I would think the crowds would be greatly diminished by then - we went a little after Labor Day (if my memory serves me right) and it was populated, but not over crowded - did not have to wait in lines to get into the park, and finding parking was not a problem - by October it shold be even less crowded.

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Once the kids are in school, the attendance at Yosemite drops off drastically, especially if you go in the middle of the week.

Bring some binoculars, especially for viewing El Capitan. If you scour the face carefully, you may spot some climbers, but they're almost impossible to spot without them, at least in my experience.

I also meant to mention another destination - Manzinar. Manzinar was a internment camp for Japanese Americans during WWII, and slow but steady progress has been made to create a memorial/visitor center on the old grounds. I hadn't paid too much attention (other than tour the grounds a few years ago) until my brother and his wife visited last summer and we spent an afternoon there. They've done a great job, and it's a stark reminder about how we treated some of our citizens during one of the darker episodes of our history. I mention this place (I think it's classified as a National Monument) because it's just north of Lone Pine, and many hiker-type visitors like to get a glimpse of the Big One (Whitney) if they're in the area.

Another place to visit is the Bristlecone Pine Forest, which is east of Big Pine in the White Mountain Range. It does take the better part of a day, especially if you drive out to the Patriach Grove as the road is rough and progress is slow (it's OK for a rental car). The Bristlecones (closely related to the Foxtail pine) are believed to be the oldest living organisms on earth, some 5,000 years. Not only are the trees fascinating, but the views are awesome. You look across the Owens Valley at an elevation ranging from 8,000 to 12,000', looking directly at the Sierra with several glaciers visible ... it's really something. Just in case you get bored with the eye-popping scenery of Yosemite!

 

[Gris]

My 19 YO daughter and two young friends just kinda showed up there several weeks ago and ended up camping, in a beautiful spot high up inside the park. They said it was simply too far to stay anywhere outside the park. Of course, consider the source - they drove around the country for four weeks and never stayed in a hotel cause they're so cheap...

 

[Peakbagr]

Mono lake is fantastic. A salt lake high up in the mountains. After a week in the Yosemite high country, the salt air, seagulls and salt columns we a pleasant shock to the senses.

In the same trip, we camped up in the Bristlecones at a primitive campground and spent 1 day in awestruck wonder, wandering around some of the oldest living things on the planet. Next day we drove up to the gate at the U.C. Davis High Altitude Research center after a 28 mile above-treeline ride. Climbed White Mt Peak, the highest Desert Peak in the US from 11k trailhead. All day between 11k and 14k+.

What a fantastic area.

 

[Ashfordite]

I spent 5 days in Yosemite in July. I stayed in West Yosemite at the Yosemtie Four Seasons lodges. It was a pretty good location, inside the park, not too far from the major attractions on the west side of the park. It was about a 20 minute drive to Yosemite village, but 1.5 to 2 hours from the eastern entrance. It was very near where the Glacier Point road intersects with the main park road. It was not luxurious, but it was comfortable and affordable. You can visit the website at www.yosemitelodging.com.

Have fun! It is an incredible place!

 

[TEO]

As far as don't misses go, be sure to visit the Mariposa Giant Sequoia grove at the South end of Yosemite. It's as stunning as anything in the Valley.

There may be lodging down that way in Wawona, which would put you about an hour (I think, maybe less, maybe more) from the Valley and at least a couple hours from Tuolumne Meadows.

 

[ghassert]

I'll be spending the last week of August in Sequoia and Kings Canyon, then the first week of September with 3 days at Tioga Pass Resort at the eastern entrance of Yosemite and 4 days in southern Yosemite at a house in the Redwoods at Yosemite . I'll let you know how it turns out. My buddy stayed at the Tioga Pass Resort about 20 years ago and couldn't stop raving about the location. I'll let you know how it turns out.

But, everyone is right about trying to do this in 3-4 days, just not enough time to do everything.

Glenn

 

[Kevin Rooney]

...
In the same trip, we camped up in the Bristlecones at a primitive campground and spentd 1 day in awestruck wonder, wondering around some of the oldest living things on the planet. Next day we drove up to the gate at the U.C. Davis High Altitude Research center after a 28 mile above-treeline ride. Climbed White Mt Peak, the highest Desert Peak in the US from 11k trailhead. All day between 11k and 14k+.

What a fantastic area.

The campground is Grandview - first come/first serve, no fees to the best of my knowledge. I hiked up White Mtn a couple of weeks ago - saw more marmots the higher I got (along with a coyote) - more marmots than I've ever seen in one place.

 

[TomD]

Depending on how many of you there are and your budget, I'd look into getting a cabin at the Redwoods, near Wawona. We did this as a group last February. These are really small private homes (the only ones in the park-long story, but park expansion in the 70's put them inside the park). Way better than Curry Village, but about 40 minutes from the valley floor. Close to the Mariposa Grove (big trees) and about 20 minutes to the turn-off for Glacier Point Road and Badger Pass. If you have kids, they are perfect-the one we were in had two bedrooms, full kitchen, nice furniture, tv, vcr, stereo, barbeque on the porch, etc. Some are fancier than others. Nice and quiet; there is a river nearby and short hike to a small waterfall.

Go to www.redwoodsinyosemite.com

SEKI is a bit of a ways away. There is plenty to see in Yosemite. A friend of mine just got back and the Valley is really dry. Many of the waterfalls are totally dry too. By October, it should be better. There was plenty of water when we were there in winter.

 

[LivesToHike]

Yosemite west?

If you can stand condos - there's a place called Yosemite West which rents out their rooms. It's off the Wawona Road, just South of the Glacier Point Road intersection, to the West, technically off the park premises.

I've stayed there, although many years ago on 3 occasions, after camping to decompress, shower, etc before heading to the airport. I don't know the condition of these condos, today, as the last time I stayed there was around summer 1993 (which was a tourist and not a camping trip.) Like everything, I think the prices have gone up since I was there last...

--Mike

 

[ksullnh]

Hey there -

I grew up in NH, but live in El Portal and have worked in Yosemite for the last year...

October is nice, but dry - WAY less crowded than the summer, and definitely more pleasant temperatures. The waterfalls are virtually nonexistent after the dry winter last year. The Valley will still be a little crowded, but not bad. As soon as you leave the valley floor, you'll see drastically fewer people. In fact, that's true even in the summer in crowded places. The size of the park leads to lots of drive-through tourism.

As for the East side, enjoy it. It's absolutely gorgeous - ask around about hot springs in Bridgeport and further south in the Mammoth area. Lee Vining is a cute little town, and you won't go wrong at The Mobil. Mono Lake is gorgeous, and if you're into birding at all, not to be missed.

Looking at records, Tioga Pass hasn't closed (permanently, at least) in October for a number of years. (Only one time in the last ten years. Of course, past performance is no guarantee of future results.) It can close for a day or two if there's a storm. Tioga Pass Lodge, mentioned above, is gorgeous from the outside and has great pie. Never been inside the cabins, though. It's at about 9000 feet and it can definitely get cold and snowy up there in October.

In addition to the Yosemite West places, I'd recommend checking out rentals in Foresta - another private inholding in the park, but slightly closer to the East entrance - at about 4000' and 10 miles or so from Yosemite Valley. (www.4yosemite.com - I have no affiliation) Also, it's closer to the high country in Tuolumne Meadows if that's your destination. El Portal has two large hotel/motels, and a new bed and breakfast, called the blue butterfly, i think. We're at 2500'; it should be quite warm still in October.

For Sequoia/King's - They're gorgeous, but far away, as others have noted. Not as great for drive-through experiences, either. I'd suggest leaving them for an excuse to come back and do LA or San Fran with some time in the mountains ;-).

Hope this is helpful - have fun on your trip.

kevin

 

[dentonfabrics]

Great advice guys, thanks for your replies. I took the new guy's advice (ksullnh) and rented a cabin in Foresta. The places looked great online. And my girlfriend is a WWII buff so she'll be visiting Manzinar on the day I take my long solo hike. Thanks for that one Kevin.

Cant wait till October! We're also doing Reno/Tahoe on the same trip so if anyone has any tips (hikes, restaurants, hot craps tables) for that area, by all means bring 'em on!


Thanks again,
bob

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Great advice guys, thanks for your replies. I took the new guy's advice (ksullnh) and rented a cabin in Foresta. The places looked great online. And my girlfriend is a WWII buff so she'll be visiting Manzinar on the day I take my long solo hike. Thanks for that one Kevin.

Cant wait till October! We're also doing Reno/Tahoe on the same trip so if anyone has any tips (hikes, restaurants, hot craps tables) for that area, by all means bring 'em on!


Thanks again,
bob

bob -

Reno = Sierra Trading Post + REI (it's a good one - their staff is knowledgeable).

Tahoe = The Lake + Harrah's Casino. Try to schedule this town on a weekday. It's very touristy, and traffic is heavy on weekends. However, if all you have is a weekend, still see Lake Tahoe. It, along with Crater Lake, are, IMHO, the two most beautiful lakes in the country. Once you'll see it, you'll understand why the Mafia decided they needed to buy up the lakeshore property.

edit: - Meant to mention re: Manzinar - I was hiking with a fellow this weekend who'd toured it just recently, and said they were in the process of reconstructing a barracks.

 

[ksullnh]

Also in Reno - The Patagonia Outlet.

kevin

 

[adamiata]

Funny, I'm also going to Yosemite in October. I'll be there from 10/6 to 10/14.

What are the higher elevations like in October? Are the cables on Half Dome usually down by then? Should I bring crampons and an axe if want to get up something like Mt. Dana around that time?