LittleBear
New member
Tuesday, 5/11/04 (continued)
Our hike has brought us up close to some of the rock formations we viewed from a distance yesterday. We find a suitable spot and set up camp. The wind is howling, which makes pitching the tent a challenge. We gather rocks to hold down the ground cloth and bigger ones to build a windbreak around the bottom of the tent. We throw our packs inside to hold down the tent while we secure it with rope tied to other rocks.
Dinner is a great success. I make ginger-cashew chicken with rice. It’s easy and quick. There is too much. We save the leftovers for the morning’s breakfast. We sit and watch the sun set and enjoy the total solitude of this magnificent place. We settle into our tents – the view from our sleeping bags is incredible. The sky darkens and the stars begin to pop out. The night sky is stunning!
Wednesday, 5/12/04
We sleep until 5 am. The wind died down during the night – although occasionally it would gust through the tent. You could hear it coming from a distance like a train, then it would hit the tent and shake it for about 5 minutes or so, before dying down and the quiet returning. We explore the area. It is barren, yet it is not. We hear and see a lot of birds, but no other wildlife. I know there are scorpions and snakes, but we have not seen any. We have a very leisurely breakfast before breaking camp and heading back to Bright Angel Campground.
The temperature swings are pretty amazing. When we got up, I put on long pants, long sleeve shirt, fleece jacket, and windbreaker. By 8 am the sun is full upon us, and I am back to my hiking skirt (which I absolutely love) and a lightweight shirt. The only piece of clothing I have not yet worn are my windpants.
Thursday, 5/13/04
Another early start. We are hiking to Indian Garden today, about 5 miles. Again, the morning is cool, but warms up quickly. The first 2 miles of today’s hike follows the river. We climb a bit, and then lose all the elevation as we descend back to river level. The Bright Angel Trail follows a drainage out of the Canyon. Although there aren’t as many views as there were on the South Kaibab, there are still some pretty spectacular ones – ones that keep changing as we climb out of the Inner Gorge. There is plenty of shade along this trail which is a welcome relief for the climb up. A stream flows to the right and plant life is abundant along it – an oasis in this desert environment.
We have an early dinner at Indian Garden – Mexican corn pie (very delicious), as we plan to hike out to Plateau Point to watch the sunset. It’s an easy 1.5 mile hike to the edge of the cliffs overlooking the Colorado River. We reach a rock promontory with heart-stopping views to the river 1300 feet straight below us! We can hear the river roar through the gorge despite the distance. We sit and await sunset. The colors change, becoming deeper and more dramatic as the sun goes down. Shadows lengthen, bringing a depth to the canyon’s features and intensifying the colors: bone and yellow turn to gold; there are deep reds, reddish-oranges, and unusual greens. The sun sets and dusk settles over us. Time to head back to camp. We hike out tomorrow. I don’t want to leave.
Some side notes: There is sand and dust everywhere! It is powdery stuff that blows in your face, gets in your eyes and ears and nose. Our clothes and tents and packs are covered with it. Attempts to keep the dust out of the tent are futile. We finally give up. My lips are constantly dry. I can’t keep enough lip balm on them. My skin is dry, too, although not as bad as I had expected. I have developed one blister – on my little toe.
The hiking isn’t hard – just different from the Whites. The trails are pretty level with no big rocks or roots to climb over. There are lots of switchbacks to ease the grade. The toughest part of the hiking is the heat. Although it is cool in the shade (when you can find it) we bake in the sun. Long sleeves, hats, and good sunscreen have helped. The weather has been incredible and there has been a breeze all week to help keep us cooler.
We’ve seen a lot of wildlife – but no scorpions and no rattlesnakes. Wildlife so far: Rock squirrels (hundreds), desert cottontails, California Condors, ravens, mule deer, western whiptail, eastern fence lizard, collared lizard, wandering garter snake (of all things), coachwhip, prairie falcon, western bluebird, pinion jay, violet green swallows, scarlet tanager, black-throated sparrows. Heard, but not seen: canyon wrens, woodhouse’s toads, and common poorwill.
Friday, 5/14/04
It’s time to leave this magnificent place. I want to stay. We have only seen a very small part of the Canyon and there are so many other places I want to hike and explore.
We have 4.5 miles to go, approx. 3,000 feet of elevation to gain. There are rest stops and water available at 3 miles and 1 ½ miles, so we can carry less water. Finally, my pack weight feels reasonable. I watch my boots change color with the geology of the Canyon. Bone to reddish-orange, back to bone again, then green, and finally back to reddish-orange. Every step I take sends up a small puff of dust. The trail begins to climb, although it is still rather easy. Switchbacks help to ease the climb. Every once in a while I look up to try to see where the trail goes. It is not obvious. In fact, looking up at the canyon walls makes you wonder not only where the trail is, but how it could possibly find a way up. It often looks as if we are hiking into a dead end. The trail is now showing signs of erosion. We must step up over logs sunk into the sand and the areas in between steps have been washed out by the elements as well as the mule trains. We pause on 3 separate occasions to allow mule trains pass by.
As I hike, I look at the trail before me. There are hundreds of footprints and the sand allows for very distinct impressions. I read the brand names of boots and sneakers imprinted in reverse relief: Asolo, Merrill, Vasque, HiTec, Reebok, New Balance, and others.
We begin to meet people hiking down the trail. Most are dayhikers, although we do meet an occasional backpacker. We comment on how “clean” they smell as they pass. We must smell awful! It’s been 6 days since our last shower!
Almost to the top, we continue along areas where it doesn’t seem possible that there can be a trail through them. More switchbacks. The view changes as our elevation gain increases. We walk through 2 stone arches/tunnels. The trail hugs the cliff. It is a long way down. Too soon we are at the top! It doesn’t seem possible that our hike is over. I look back down and over where we hiked today. I look out over to Plateau Point and across the river to Bright Angel Canyon. Was I really just there?
I planned this trip for so long – prepared for it all winter and now it has come and gone. It far exceeded my expectations. I never imagined it could be like this. I take away memories for a lifetime and a strong desire to return.
Our hike has brought us up close to some of the rock formations we viewed from a distance yesterday. We find a suitable spot and set up camp. The wind is howling, which makes pitching the tent a challenge. We gather rocks to hold down the ground cloth and bigger ones to build a windbreak around the bottom of the tent. We throw our packs inside to hold down the tent while we secure it with rope tied to other rocks.
Dinner is a great success. I make ginger-cashew chicken with rice. It’s easy and quick. There is too much. We save the leftovers for the morning’s breakfast. We sit and watch the sun set and enjoy the total solitude of this magnificent place. We settle into our tents – the view from our sleeping bags is incredible. The sky darkens and the stars begin to pop out. The night sky is stunning!
Wednesday, 5/12/04
We sleep until 5 am. The wind died down during the night – although occasionally it would gust through the tent. You could hear it coming from a distance like a train, then it would hit the tent and shake it for about 5 minutes or so, before dying down and the quiet returning. We explore the area. It is barren, yet it is not. We hear and see a lot of birds, but no other wildlife. I know there are scorpions and snakes, but we have not seen any. We have a very leisurely breakfast before breaking camp and heading back to Bright Angel Campground.
The temperature swings are pretty amazing. When we got up, I put on long pants, long sleeve shirt, fleece jacket, and windbreaker. By 8 am the sun is full upon us, and I am back to my hiking skirt (which I absolutely love) and a lightweight shirt. The only piece of clothing I have not yet worn are my windpants.
Thursday, 5/13/04
Another early start. We are hiking to Indian Garden today, about 5 miles. Again, the morning is cool, but warms up quickly. The first 2 miles of today’s hike follows the river. We climb a bit, and then lose all the elevation as we descend back to river level. The Bright Angel Trail follows a drainage out of the Canyon. Although there aren’t as many views as there were on the South Kaibab, there are still some pretty spectacular ones – ones that keep changing as we climb out of the Inner Gorge. There is plenty of shade along this trail which is a welcome relief for the climb up. A stream flows to the right and plant life is abundant along it – an oasis in this desert environment.
We have an early dinner at Indian Garden – Mexican corn pie (very delicious), as we plan to hike out to Plateau Point to watch the sunset. It’s an easy 1.5 mile hike to the edge of the cliffs overlooking the Colorado River. We reach a rock promontory with heart-stopping views to the river 1300 feet straight below us! We can hear the river roar through the gorge despite the distance. We sit and await sunset. The colors change, becoming deeper and more dramatic as the sun goes down. Shadows lengthen, bringing a depth to the canyon’s features and intensifying the colors: bone and yellow turn to gold; there are deep reds, reddish-oranges, and unusual greens. The sun sets and dusk settles over us. Time to head back to camp. We hike out tomorrow. I don’t want to leave.
Some side notes: There is sand and dust everywhere! It is powdery stuff that blows in your face, gets in your eyes and ears and nose. Our clothes and tents and packs are covered with it. Attempts to keep the dust out of the tent are futile. We finally give up. My lips are constantly dry. I can’t keep enough lip balm on them. My skin is dry, too, although not as bad as I had expected. I have developed one blister – on my little toe.
The hiking isn’t hard – just different from the Whites. The trails are pretty level with no big rocks or roots to climb over. There are lots of switchbacks to ease the grade. The toughest part of the hiking is the heat. Although it is cool in the shade (when you can find it) we bake in the sun. Long sleeves, hats, and good sunscreen have helped. The weather has been incredible and there has been a breeze all week to help keep us cooler.
We’ve seen a lot of wildlife – but no scorpions and no rattlesnakes. Wildlife so far: Rock squirrels (hundreds), desert cottontails, California Condors, ravens, mule deer, western whiptail, eastern fence lizard, collared lizard, wandering garter snake (of all things), coachwhip, prairie falcon, western bluebird, pinion jay, violet green swallows, scarlet tanager, black-throated sparrows. Heard, but not seen: canyon wrens, woodhouse’s toads, and common poorwill.
Friday, 5/14/04
It’s time to leave this magnificent place. I want to stay. We have only seen a very small part of the Canyon and there are so many other places I want to hike and explore.
We have 4.5 miles to go, approx. 3,000 feet of elevation to gain. There are rest stops and water available at 3 miles and 1 ½ miles, so we can carry less water. Finally, my pack weight feels reasonable. I watch my boots change color with the geology of the Canyon. Bone to reddish-orange, back to bone again, then green, and finally back to reddish-orange. Every step I take sends up a small puff of dust. The trail begins to climb, although it is still rather easy. Switchbacks help to ease the climb. Every once in a while I look up to try to see where the trail goes. It is not obvious. In fact, looking up at the canyon walls makes you wonder not only where the trail is, but how it could possibly find a way up. It often looks as if we are hiking into a dead end. The trail is now showing signs of erosion. We must step up over logs sunk into the sand and the areas in between steps have been washed out by the elements as well as the mule trains. We pause on 3 separate occasions to allow mule trains pass by.
As I hike, I look at the trail before me. There are hundreds of footprints and the sand allows for very distinct impressions. I read the brand names of boots and sneakers imprinted in reverse relief: Asolo, Merrill, Vasque, HiTec, Reebok, New Balance, and others.
We begin to meet people hiking down the trail. Most are dayhikers, although we do meet an occasional backpacker. We comment on how “clean” they smell as they pass. We must smell awful! It’s been 6 days since our last shower!
Almost to the top, we continue along areas where it doesn’t seem possible that there can be a trail through them. More switchbacks. The view changes as our elevation gain increases. We walk through 2 stone arches/tunnels. The trail hugs the cliff. It is a long way down. Too soon we are at the top! It doesn’t seem possible that our hike is over. I look back down and over where we hiked today. I look out over to Plateau Point and across the river to Bright Angel Canyon. Was I really just there?
I planned this trip for so long – prepared for it all winter and now it has come and gone. It far exceeded my expectations. I never imagined it could be like this. I take away memories for a lifetime and a strong desire to return.
