McRat
New member
PEMI LOOP TRIP REPORT
aka "Boy am I out of shape."
I've always tried to bite off more than I can chew, but had no idea how tough this hike would be at the time. To all of those who can do this in one day, all I can say is WOW!
Been planning this trip since Feb/March - I wanted to get out and see some really beautiful parts of the 'Whites before the crowds and bugs hit. Somewhere I had read about the Pemi Loop and I wisely asked Sherpa John if it would be a manageable 4-day/3 night backpack. He said day two of my plan from Liberty Springs to Garfield Shelter would be a rough day, but the rest should be fine. I hadn't really reflected on the fact that I was getting advice from someone who it hoping to do teh entire 48 in a similar timespan.
I soon was reserving the time off from work and spending more time on scenic mount stairmaster. I even found a VFFTer, Nartreb, who would come along for the trip.
For the week before, I was hitting refresh every ten minutes on my browser looking for an up-to-date Weather report. 60°F highs / 40°F lows and possibillity of rain. Finally it was time to drive on up to Lincoln Woods and get started.
Even though I'm used to a daypack and was carrying near 45lbs in a backpack for the first real hike, there was a spring in my step as I set off hiking. No wait, that was the suspension bridge... We made good time to the Osseo Trail, where the sign was strangely painted black, except for one corner where the words AMC where untouched.
Then came the elevation... a bit tougher than usual with the heavier load, but soon I was above treeline and it felt great. #6 of 48, Mt. Flume. The views, while hazy at a distance, were gorgeous. By the time we got to Liberty(#7), I was starting to slow down a bit, so I wasn't that upset when the Liberty Springs Trail had enough loose snow and ice to slow us down quite a bit.
We set up our tents at Liberty Springs, fetched some water, cooked dinner, and I went to enjoy a pipe at the overlook facing the Kinsmans. Felt tired, but very happy. I changed into my dry socks, and hit the sleeping bag. First nights out are always awkward sleeping but it went better after I put my gloves on my feet to warm the toes up a bit.
The next morning I woke up eager to take on the day. I was a little stiff and tired, but after breakfast it was time to go. Half way up the Liberty Springs trail I was already drenched in sweat. Around the time I got to Little Haystack, I could see the Greenleaf Hut in the distance... and it was looking like a good exit strategy.
On Lincoln(#8) we ran into a young couple from Syracuse who had been planning on climbing to Garfield but turned back because the trail was a mess. Their pants were soaked almost to the knee.
"Nartreb, You don't mind if I turn off after Lafayette, do you?" I asked. He said he'd be fine, and I began figuring out the logistics in my head on how to pick him up on Friday.
The Franconia Ridge is the highest elevation I had climbed so far, and the rugged beauty of it carried me along to Lafayette(#9) and lightened my mood. Though the clouds were darkening and we could see rain in the distance, I decided to bite the bullet and continue the loop.
For a first timer on tired legs, the view towards Garfield looks so imposing, with many bumps and sags. The path was heavily postholed and we rode the boot-width snow pack as best as we could. At several points even the snow pack wasn't sticking to itself at all and collapsed to either side. All the while Mt. Garfield seemed the same distance away.
Eventually, and with Nartreb enduring my pointless complaints, I stood by the old foundation at Mt. Garfield(#10) and was delighted to be heading all downhill to the Garfield Ridge shelter. When we finally got to the shelter after a discouraging brief elevation gain, it began snowing with light accumulation. I managed to eat most of my dinner, but I think I left my appetite back on Lafayette.
The next day, we trudged along until I reached the Galehead Hut. When I walked in, a young couple from Manchester noted I was steaming. The fellow said, "Must be a heavy pack there."
"Yup", I said, "pushing 45lbs"
"Oh.. I'm carrying 70."
"Yeah, But I'm a fat bastard."
I dropped pack and headed up the trail to Galehead (#11). It felt so good to walk without the pack, it was like my legs were lifting themselves without will. At this time I dropped my plans for the N. Twin spur, hoping to save my legs for the final days walk out. Nartreb was planning on heading up S.Twin, over to N.Twin and then meet up at the Guyot campsite. I took a few minutes break and hung out at the hut forcing myself to eat.
As someone who has never been in an AMC hut, my first impression was pretty good. The hut was bright, clean, and cheerful. Very tempting. I mentally calculated how much less weight I'd be carrying if I had decided to use the huts. Not a good idea.
When I put the pack back on and headed for S.Twin, I had the sneaking suspicion that Mr. 70-lb pack had offloaded some gear on me. Having had a break, it felt heavier than before.
The trail up S.Twin was relentlessly vertical. I tried to remind myself it was only 1000 feet. Probably every 30 feet or so. I wondered if I would even make it, reminding myself that every step was one step closer to getting home to a warm shower and the embrac eof family. When I got to the top of S.Twin(#12) and looked around the clouds opened up, showering the Pemi Valley with sun. I don't know if it was my mental state, or the view itself - it was so beautiful I wept.
I looked out at N.Twin and shouted at it, "YOU WILL BE #48". I guess that one is attributable to my mental state at the time. I tied a piece of string to Nartreb's pack so he'd know I had made it, and headed down the Twinway.
After I got into the trees, the next couple of miles could have really used snowshoes. I continued moving slowly and by the time I began to see views of Guyot, Nartreb was right behind me.
We moved along over over Guyot to the charming Guyot shelter. Knowing that the majority of elevation gain was behind us, I was able to ignore my burning legs and allowed myself to cheer up a bit. But I still couldn't eat. I looked into my cannister and saw the remaining Snickers bars, and decided then that I never want to eat another one again. I had a freeze-dried meal, a cup of tea, and a somewhat good nights sleep dreaming of mice because of some comment I had read about the shelter last year. I guess I'm impressionable.
When we got up, I forced myself to eat, but aside from being a bit stiff-legged, felt pretty good about the walk out. I would finally see the famous Bonds - and get home to my family, whom I had begun to miss dearly.
We got to drop pack and bag West Bond(#13), and while still snowy in places, almost every last step of elevation gain was a relief instead of a burden. Once we summited Bond(#14), I was so excited I felt propelled along the ridge to Bondcliff. I suddenly felt guilty for all of my bitching and headed out first so that Nartreb could enjoy a moment of solitude.
The walk out to Bondcliff(#15) is absolutely breathtaking. Even tired legs ached to see what was over the next hump. With its rocky path and low scrub pines, there was something almost cathedral-like about it as I wandered along the aisle to some great altar of granite.
When Natreb came along we took the obligatory cliff pictures, soaked in the view and headed down. After the switchbacks, the Bondcliff trail was surprisingly gentle, snowfree, and only slightly muddy around 2300-2500'. We made it out to the Wilderness trail, telling jokes and stories to break up the monotony, and at last we arrived at the car.
I must have left my appetite there, because when we stopped for a McSnack, I think I polished off a burger and my McProccessedNuggets in about 90 seconds. By 8:00 the Boston skyline appeared and I marveled at their relative size to the mountains I had climbed.
Soon I was home, greeted by my wife and two daughters, and had a hot shower. They wanted to know what animals I saw on the trail, if I saw any bears, and a hundred other cute questions only 7 and 8 year olds can ask. Then I tucked them in, kissed them goodnight, and left the room before I began getting weepy again.
Sometimes the best part of getting away is coming home.
--------------------------
In spite of all the hardships, this trip was one of the best things I have ever done. I'd like to thank all the people who made it possible -
Dennis, who covered my shifts at work.
Nartreb - who by virtue of just BEING there gave me the excuse I needed to not bail after Lafayette
Sherpa John - for his logistical help, constant encouragement and advice.
The whole VFTT gang - for all thier thoughtful advice and putting up with all my newbie questions.
Mohammed Ellozy - whose web page inspired me to take to the 48. I haven't got a chance to thank him yet in person, but when I do he can have all the GORP he wants. I know I don't want to carry it.
aka "Boy am I out of shape."
I've always tried to bite off more than I can chew, but had no idea how tough this hike would be at the time. To all of those who can do this in one day, all I can say is WOW!
Been planning this trip since Feb/March - I wanted to get out and see some really beautiful parts of the 'Whites before the crowds and bugs hit. Somewhere I had read about the Pemi Loop and I wisely asked Sherpa John if it would be a manageable 4-day/3 night backpack. He said day two of my plan from Liberty Springs to Garfield Shelter would be a rough day, but the rest should be fine. I hadn't really reflected on the fact that I was getting advice from someone who it hoping to do teh entire 48 in a similar timespan.
I soon was reserving the time off from work and spending more time on scenic mount stairmaster. I even found a VFFTer, Nartreb, who would come along for the trip.
For the week before, I was hitting refresh every ten minutes on my browser looking for an up-to-date Weather report. 60°F highs / 40°F lows and possibillity of rain. Finally it was time to drive on up to Lincoln Woods and get started.
Even though I'm used to a daypack and was carrying near 45lbs in a backpack for the first real hike, there was a spring in my step as I set off hiking. No wait, that was the suspension bridge... We made good time to the Osseo Trail, where the sign was strangely painted black, except for one corner where the words AMC where untouched.
Then came the elevation... a bit tougher than usual with the heavier load, but soon I was above treeline and it felt great. #6 of 48, Mt. Flume. The views, while hazy at a distance, were gorgeous. By the time we got to Liberty(#7), I was starting to slow down a bit, so I wasn't that upset when the Liberty Springs Trail had enough loose snow and ice to slow us down quite a bit.
We set up our tents at Liberty Springs, fetched some water, cooked dinner, and I went to enjoy a pipe at the overlook facing the Kinsmans. Felt tired, but very happy. I changed into my dry socks, and hit the sleeping bag. First nights out are always awkward sleeping but it went better after I put my gloves on my feet to warm the toes up a bit.
The next morning I woke up eager to take on the day. I was a little stiff and tired, but after breakfast it was time to go. Half way up the Liberty Springs trail I was already drenched in sweat. Around the time I got to Little Haystack, I could see the Greenleaf Hut in the distance... and it was looking like a good exit strategy.
On Lincoln(#8) we ran into a young couple from Syracuse who had been planning on climbing to Garfield but turned back because the trail was a mess. Their pants were soaked almost to the knee.
"Nartreb, You don't mind if I turn off after Lafayette, do you?" I asked. He said he'd be fine, and I began figuring out the logistics in my head on how to pick him up on Friday.
The Franconia Ridge is the highest elevation I had climbed so far, and the rugged beauty of it carried me along to Lafayette(#9) and lightened my mood. Though the clouds were darkening and we could see rain in the distance, I decided to bite the bullet and continue the loop.
For a first timer on tired legs, the view towards Garfield looks so imposing, with many bumps and sags. The path was heavily postholed and we rode the boot-width snow pack as best as we could. At several points even the snow pack wasn't sticking to itself at all and collapsed to either side. All the while Mt. Garfield seemed the same distance away.
Eventually, and with Nartreb enduring my pointless complaints, I stood by the old foundation at Mt. Garfield(#10) and was delighted to be heading all downhill to the Garfield Ridge shelter. When we finally got to the shelter after a discouraging brief elevation gain, it began snowing with light accumulation. I managed to eat most of my dinner, but I think I left my appetite back on Lafayette.
The next day, we trudged along until I reached the Galehead Hut. When I walked in, a young couple from Manchester noted I was steaming. The fellow said, "Must be a heavy pack there."
"Yup", I said, "pushing 45lbs"
"Oh.. I'm carrying 70."
"Yeah, But I'm a fat bastard."
I dropped pack and headed up the trail to Galehead (#11). It felt so good to walk without the pack, it was like my legs were lifting themselves without will. At this time I dropped my plans for the N. Twin spur, hoping to save my legs for the final days walk out. Nartreb was planning on heading up S.Twin, over to N.Twin and then meet up at the Guyot campsite. I took a few minutes break and hung out at the hut forcing myself to eat.
As someone who has never been in an AMC hut, my first impression was pretty good. The hut was bright, clean, and cheerful. Very tempting. I mentally calculated how much less weight I'd be carrying if I had decided to use the huts. Not a good idea.
When I put the pack back on and headed for S.Twin, I had the sneaking suspicion that Mr. 70-lb pack had offloaded some gear on me. Having had a break, it felt heavier than before.
The trail up S.Twin was relentlessly vertical. I tried to remind myself it was only 1000 feet. Probably every 30 feet or so. I wondered if I would even make it, reminding myself that every step was one step closer to getting home to a warm shower and the embrac eof family. When I got to the top of S.Twin(#12) and looked around the clouds opened up, showering the Pemi Valley with sun. I don't know if it was my mental state, or the view itself - it was so beautiful I wept.
I looked out at N.Twin and shouted at it, "YOU WILL BE #48". I guess that one is attributable to my mental state at the time. I tied a piece of string to Nartreb's pack so he'd know I had made it, and headed down the Twinway.
After I got into the trees, the next couple of miles could have really used snowshoes. I continued moving slowly and by the time I began to see views of Guyot, Nartreb was right behind me.
We moved along over over Guyot to the charming Guyot shelter. Knowing that the majority of elevation gain was behind us, I was able to ignore my burning legs and allowed myself to cheer up a bit. But I still couldn't eat. I looked into my cannister and saw the remaining Snickers bars, and decided then that I never want to eat another one again. I had a freeze-dried meal, a cup of tea, and a somewhat good nights sleep dreaming of mice because of some comment I had read about the shelter last year. I guess I'm impressionable.
When we got up, I forced myself to eat, but aside from being a bit stiff-legged, felt pretty good about the walk out. I would finally see the famous Bonds - and get home to my family, whom I had begun to miss dearly.
We got to drop pack and bag West Bond(#13), and while still snowy in places, almost every last step of elevation gain was a relief instead of a burden. Once we summited Bond(#14), I was so excited I felt propelled along the ridge to Bondcliff. I suddenly felt guilty for all of my bitching and headed out first so that Nartreb could enjoy a moment of solitude.
The walk out to Bondcliff(#15) is absolutely breathtaking. Even tired legs ached to see what was over the next hump. With its rocky path and low scrub pines, there was something almost cathedral-like about it as I wandered along the aisle to some great altar of granite.
When Natreb came along we took the obligatory cliff pictures, soaked in the view and headed down. After the switchbacks, the Bondcliff trail was surprisingly gentle, snowfree, and only slightly muddy around 2300-2500'. We made it out to the Wilderness trail, telling jokes and stories to break up the monotony, and at last we arrived at the car.
I must have left my appetite there, because when we stopped for a McSnack, I think I polished off a burger and my McProccessedNuggets in about 90 seconds. By 8:00 the Boston skyline appeared and I marveled at their relative size to the mountains I had climbed.
Soon I was home, greeted by my wife and two daughters, and had a hot shower. They wanted to know what animals I saw on the trail, if I saw any bears, and a hundred other cute questions only 7 and 8 year olds can ask. Then I tucked them in, kissed them goodnight, and left the room before I began getting weepy again.
Sometimes the best part of getting away is coming home.
--------------------------
In spite of all the hardships, this trip was one of the best things I have ever done. I'd like to thank all the people who made it possible -
Dennis, who covered my shifts at work.
Nartreb - who by virtue of just BEING there gave me the excuse I needed to not bail after Lafayette
Sherpa John - for his logistical help, constant encouragement and advice.
The whole VFTT gang - for all thier thoughtful advice and putting up with all my newbie questions.
Mohammed Ellozy - whose web page inspired me to take to the 48. I haven't got a chance to thank him yet in person, but when I do he can have all the GORP he wants. I know I don't want to carry it.
