Saddleback and The Horn, 23-Jul-2010

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bikehikeskifish

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On the last day of my trip, we headed 30 miles south to Rangeley to tag the Saddlebacks. For the whole week, the weather forecast was sketchy and every day, except possibly Tuesday (Bigelows), it was better than forecast. So I was concerned when Friday showed nice weather all week... until Friday morning when it showed mostly cloudy and I knew we were all set! Friday may have been the nicest day of July, and we were in for a treat with 5+ miles of above-treeline hiking. I knew it would be a stellar hike because it started with a moose sighting, which has always been a good omen for me.

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Mama and baby, Bob breaking out of the trees

We parked at the AT crossing and struck out for 7.3 miles to The Horn. The first mile is flat and wet with lots of bog bridges, mud, and roots. After Piazza Rock and the shelter, the trail climbs steeply over rocks for 650 feet or so, taking advantage of a handful of short and tight switchbacks, the kind where you can see the trail parallel to you above and below. After leveling out it passes a boggy area to the right and Ledge Pond on the left before coming to the largest pond - Eddy Pond again on the left. After the ponds, the climbing to the ridge begins and the trail becomes slab after slab until it's just one big rock and the trees disappear.

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View toward Rangeley Lake, Tim on Saddleback

When first out of the trees, the lake views are as good as they will get. For the next 3 miles or so the trail is mostly above the trees, ducking back in for only a few hundred feet at a time. There are a few false summits along the way and eventually you can see the sign and know that the real summit is coming. Once there, the views are 360 but because it is dome-shaped, you should scramble around the perimeter for the best views. We ate and switched to a dry shirt at a windbreak just off the summit.

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En route to The Horn, Bob with Saddleback

On the way to The Horn, you first cross a minor bump, which gives the illusion that The Horn is closer than it actually is. Once on and over this hump, it looks a lot further. The elevation change to the col is about 500 feet which was refreshing after the Abraham-Spauling col change of over 1000. The views keep coming the entire way across and from The Horn itself, the previous three days efforts are all visible (even the Bigelows, just barely.)

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Crockers, Redington, Sugarloaf, Spaulding, Abraham and Saddleback Junior (front), Saddleback from The Horn

After another fine break for some views and food, we returned the way we came, stopping only briefly to talk to a through-hiker on Saddleback. He'd done a lot of the trail work up in this area, and worked against the Redington wind farm project. Incidentally, you can see the wind farm across Flagstaff Lake from Saddleback, as well as from on the Bigelows. At first glance, it looks like many perfectly skinny parallel slides and then you realize they aren't natural and then the turbine blades become visible. Might want to bring binoculars if that sort of thing interests you.

We completed the 14.4 mile trek in 7:15, and then began the long drives home. I'd like to once again thank Bob for driving the logging roads in the Hayesmobile.

All Photos

Tim
 
Logistical Cheat Sheet for the western Maine 4Ks

Here is some logistical information from the trip to western Maine. I had Bob Hayes for company for the week.

Lodging
We used the Spillover Motel as our base camp. Clean, two double beds, air conditioning, WiFi, kitchen with two fridges, microwaves, and a gas grill in the back. Kitchen is accessible via your key 24x7. We ate breakfast at the motel every morning, and cooked on the grill twice. Highly recommend this place - 3.8 miles to Stratton Brook Road, 6.0 miles to the CVR. The Stratton Motel is an additional mile further away, and the Maine Roadhouse is 5.5 miles further, down on route 16.

Dining
On the recommendation of people here, we ate at the White Wolf Inn (pub side) on Monday night. The food was good, but a bit pricey for what you got. On Thursday night, we ate at the Looney Moose (Hiker Ed's favorite spot) which was about as casual as you can get and priced better. I liked the fried Maine shrimp basket - nice peppery coating and not too much batter. I wouldn't recommend the Spillover's continental breakfast, except you can get coffee if you're not terribly picky.

Supplies
Fotter's Sure Fine has a decent selection of groceries and general hardware (they were out of AA batteries however) - they aren't open early or late - 9 to 7 I believe. Can't read the faded hours on the door. They had some local produce which was excellent (mixed salad greens.) There is a hardware / general store across the street which caters more to hunters/anglers and has some sandwiches.

Hiking

Total mileage: 56.5
Elevation: 16,900

Day 1: Bigelow Range: South Horn, West Peak, Avery Peak, clockwise via the "Iron Triangle" - Firewarden's Trail, Horn Pond Trail, Bigelow Range Trail (AT), Firewarden's Trail. In Bob's Suburban, we were able to drive all the way to Stratton Pond and the river crossing.

Day 2: South Crocker, (North) Crocker, Redington - CVR and up via the AT to South Crocker (very steep in sections), over and back to North Crocker, and then Redington via the herd path--note that it diverges right before the AT boundary and the more obvious path is the wrong path, although if you find yourself at the AT boundary without a path continuing straight ahead, turn right and follow the boundary cut for 100-150 feet and you'll come to the herd path cutting straight across. There are a handful of blowdowns and semi-obscured spots, but overall quite easy to follow. The clearcut is growing in, but still provide some of the best views of the day. Heard a moose and saw the bushes moving nearby.

Day 3: Abraham, Spaulding and Sugarloaf: CVR and up the AT (some steep sections), and all the way to the Abraham Side Trail to Abraham, doing the big distance during the cloudy/misty weather. Wet, boggy, rooted and slippery on the AT. The side trail was in excellent shape. Abraham was windy and exposed. Back to the AT and took on water at the spring below the Spaulding Lean-To. Continue to Spaulding where the views were limited, and the herd path to a viewpoint of Sugarloaf wasn't really worth the trip. Oddly, the summit sign on Spaulding says 3988... Back to the AT and up Sugarloaf (there is a spring on the way up.)

Day 4: Drove 30 miles down 16 and 4 to the AT crossing in Rangeley. Saddlebacks out-and-back. Water available through Eddy Pond and a few trickles beyond. Did not find the spring up top (didn't look either.) FANTASTIC VIEW HIKE.

Tim
 
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