Checking in from the AT - Part 2

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Double Bow

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"Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it." - Ferris Bueller

I've always loved this quote and am finding it to be true on the trail, even when you're taking life at two miles per hour. During my first week out of Damascus, I've seen things go from a crowded whirlwind experience to a much slower more solitary one. Initially, with everyone leaving town around the same time, the shelters and campsites were fairly crowded and I was frequently coming across others on the trail. Now, since I have been doing fairly high mileage days given the terrain (17+mi/day) and I didn't stop in Atkins (where many others stopped) I feel that I've passed many of the people whose company I was enjoying. Today I am resting in Bland (as exciting as it sounds) in an effort to regain some energy and protect myself from injury. No one else from the trail is here. With it being a few miles off the trail and not having much to offer, this town isn't a popular place to resupply. Atkins before it was and Pearisburg (the next town up is as well).

This is sort of where the rubber meets the trail for me. The high and excitement of Trail Days has worn off and spending more time alone, the experience is becoming less of a social one except either at night at shelters with a smaller number of people than before or on occasion when I do run into someone on the trail. At times, boredom has set in and I'll use my iPod to get me a little more motivated. Other times I'll just let my mind wander and this usually leads to my slowing down.

Besides seeing fewer people, another challenge has been the change in weather. When I got on the trail, it was cool and misty. One day it rained lightly-moderately, but it was comfortable. This weather helped me get through the tough sections over Whitetop and Rogers, the second and the highest peaks in Virginia. The climbs were challenging but the cooler temps made them more manageable. Plus, seeing the wild Highland Ponies added to the excitement. One cold stormy night, I was crammed into the eaves of the second level of a shelter over 5,500' elevation. Rain was pounding on the metal roof inches from my face as thunder rumbled and below ponies were chewing on the edge of the shelter for the salt. I didn't sleep well, but it was exciting. Now, the weather has turned warmer (80s). Water is getting scarcer and the terrain less interesting. Instead of hitting peaks, we just traverse long wooded ridges below the ridgetop. I understand now why many people say that boredom is one of the hardest things about the trail. To keep going, you need to not be focused on taking in views or peaks but rather to be focused on taking in that which is within. Yesterday, I had a moment of clarity where I stopped and truly appreciated where I was and what I was doing and was so thankful.

While the last few days have been challenging, next week looks better. The trail is fairly smooth for the next 40 miles and I'll be hitting a place on the trail called Woodhole Hostel. Bunks there have mattresses and cost $10 a night. They focus on sustainable living through beekeeping, organic gardening, yoga, and massage therapy. They have electricity and hot showers, organic tea/coffee in the morning and I can take part in local/organic community dinner for $12 or breakfast for $6.50. Yoga is free. They have Internet, laundry (machine & hand-wash), pizza, smoothies, and shuttles into town. It's no wonder this place is called "a slice of Heaven not to be missed" in the book. After Woodshole, I'll hit Pearisburg where I can get a town meal before continuing another 75mi to Catawba where I'll see my dear friend Heather, whom I haven't seen for a couple of years and her baby whom I've yet to meet. I'll slow down there for sure as this is something I wouldn't want to miss for anything.

My friend No Worries said yesterday that the trail was his military. That it was breaking him down and rebuilding himself into a soldier in the army of his life. I liked that and feel that if I push through the pain, the mental challenges, and the conditions (weather, trail, and physical) that I too will be rebuilt, or as the title of this blog puts it I will experience rebirth by trail and by trial. I will push on to be all I can be.
 
Hope the rhodo thickets are in bloom north of Woods Hole, I remember a constant "tunnel" for a mile or so just before Pearisburg. I love the shelter just north of town up on the top of the ridge looking over West Virginia but most folks blow past it as they stay in town.
 
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