Compare and Contrast - Beaver Brook Trail and Ammo Ravine Trail in early May

[Driver8]

I'm planning to do Mt. Moosilauke with two hiking partners this weekend and am evaluating the Beaver Brook ascent. We'll be spotting two cars, and I'd like to to the N-S A.T. traverse, but I have questions about the climb from the north this time of year.

The nearest comparison with which I'm acquainted is the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail, which I hiked May 12 last year. This year has been much snowier than last, and it appears that Beaver Brook Trail is steeper and more shielded from the sun than is Ammo. Last year, I was able to climb the steep part of Ammo with spikes only, and judging from Big Earl's report and pics, it looks like that would be doable now on that trail.

So what about Beaver Brook? Is it likely to have stretches of ice calling for crampons this late in the season, or is it likely to be passable, though severely steep in places, with light traction?

This climb is a reach for me at this time, as I'm not in the shape I was in this time last year - carrying more weight, though the legs are still strong. I really want to see the falls, though, in snow melt season - getting to M's summit is a secondary goal, as I summited it last May 5. One solution to that issue is maybe to spot Car 2 at the Ravine Lodge, so I can bail via the Asquam Ridge Trail. Another would be to descend back to Car 1 via Beaver Brook, though I've heard fearsome reports about this trail, especially going down it.

I had no trouble going down Ammo, with spikes to about 4000' and no need for them below that, last May. Should I allow myself, in planning, the bailout option of a trip all the way down Beaver Brook from about 3500' - which looks to be the top of the steepest part - down to Car 1, or should I just plan on Asquam if I need to cut my trip short? One ultimate "bail out" option will be to ascend via Asquam Ridge or, less preferably, Gorge Brook, which I did last May, saving Beaver Brook for a time when I'm fitter.

Thanks in advance for the benefit of your advice and experience.

 

[Kevin Rooney]

If I were doing Beaverbrook, I'd use my Kahtoola microspikes. I did Moosilauke on Monday via Gorge Brook, and used them up to treeline. On the descent via Carriage and Snapper, the snow was soft enough that I got good enough traction without them. With the warm temps both day and night, I doubt conditions will change much.

As for Asquam Ridge - I'd bring snowshoes. That trail isn't done much in winter, and my hunch is you'd do a helluva lot of postholing without them.

 

[Driver8]

If I were doing Beaverbrook, I'd use my Kahtoola microspikes. I did Moosilauke on Monday via Gorge Brook, and used them up to treeline. On the descent via Carriage and Snapper, the snow was soft enough that I got good enough traction without them. With the warm temps both day and night, I doubt conditions will change much.

As for Asquam Ridge - I'd bring snowshoes. That trail isn't done much in winter, and my hunch is you'd do a helluva lot of postholing without them.

Thanks, Kevin. I'm figuring on bringing the snowshoes along - seems like in the 3500-tree line zone there will be stretches that call for them.

 

[sierra]

Ive done the beaver brook ascent about 6 times or so and the Ammou much more. Concerns for the beaver brook route now would be ice and there is potential to take some bad falls, it is very steep and very close to the cascades for the whole steep section. I think micro-spikes might not be enough, BUT Im not giving first hand knowledge of the current conditions so I may be wrong. Im climbing the moose, thursday and have chosen the gorge brook route, specifically because IM taking my dog and want to avoid steep icey routes. This time of year is a crap shoot, when thinking about a route consider its exposure to sun, the ammou gets more, ie melts out quicker, BB trail is very sheltered so it will hold snow and ice longer. Once past the steep section, the trail is a piece of cake, personaly I love the route.

 

[Driver8]

I did Moosilauke on Monday via Gorge Brook, and used them up to treeline. On the descent via Carriage and Snapper, the snow was soft enough that I got good enough traction without them.

I did Gorge Brook last May, Kevin, so that will be a good reference for me. How deep was the snow in the steep switch-back section ascending the east end of the eastern ridge? Was it firm monorail? Was there significant snow before it leaves Gorge Brook at the memorial sign? Last year, I didn't run into significant snow until the switchbacks, and there wasn't a lot of it on the Carriage Road's traverse of the middle peak.

Im climbing the moose, thursday and have chosen the gorge brook route, specifically because IM taking my dog and want to avoid steep icey routes.

It would be great if you could share about the conditions you run into tomorrow, sierra. Thanks for your insights. The Beaver Brook Trail is probably a bridge too far for me this weekend. We'll see - might try to start up it and check out some of the falls, turning back if it looks too dicey and resorting to the Gorge Brook approach.

 

[RoySwkr]

As you say, the steepest portion is near the road so you can turn around when you still have energy if it gets to be too much

If you are going to bring snowshoes anyway, a bushwhack parallel to the trail will not be any less steep but will almost certainly be less icy

 

[Kevin Rooney]

I did Gorge Brook last May, Kevin, so that will be a good reference for me. How deep was the snow in the steep switch-back section ascending the east end of the eastern ridge? Was it firm monorail? Was there significant snow before it leaves Gorge Brook at the memorial sign? Last year, I didn't run into significant snow until the switchbacks, and there wasn't a lot of it on the Carriage Road's traverse of the middle peak.

The snow was continuous from about the jct of the Snapper with Gorge Brook (the new relocation) and varied from about 1' to 3'+. There's no monorail per se; however, if you strayed beyond the 2' packed portion of the trail, you'd posthole - otherwise, on the ascent I didn't posthole once. The section near treeline where it was first totally exposed was clear - soft and muddy - and when it reentered the trees was again solid snowpack, provided you stayed in the center of track. Again - it's too early for monorails above, say, 3K' in my experience this winter/spring.

When I was eating my lunch on the summit, 3 fellows came by who'd done it via Beaverbrook. They were carrying 'shoes and microspokes, but not crampons. So - while you can rarely go wrong by carrying crampons, based upon my own experience and observations of this group, were I to Beaverbrook I'd carry microspikes.

So that we're clear - please notice that I'm not telling you what to do. Rather, I'm telling you what I would do, and hope that information helps inform your own decision. It may seem like a subtle difference, but ... since we've never met, and I suspect my hiking experience exceeds yours by a margin, it's important to me that you draw your own conclusions from whatever observations I offer regarding how I personally would approach a hike up Beaverbrook within the next few days.

 

[Driver8]

Thanks Roy and Kevin. No question you've a lot more hiking experience than I, Kevin, especially in the Whites.

That's a lot of snow, Kevin! Much more than last year.

Depending on what my partners want and the mood of the day, I might go for the attempt of Beaver Brook. It's encouraging to hear that a threesome got up it with spikes and shoes. We shall see how things play out. Might do the Roy approach of trying the north side and bailing back down if the situation calls for it.

Thanks again for your advice and info.

 

[blacknblue]

I've done the BB Trail a bunch (though not recent enough to give a trail conditions update). I have done it during this time of year, too, and it can be awfully treacherous. There are lots of places to take a bad fall. Personally (and I'm making a speculation as to actual conditions), I would hold off on the BB Trail until it melts out more. Once you get above the shelter, it's not a problem, so I'd wait until the trail is more or less snow and ice free up to that elevation.
I like the Roy approach, too. The steeps come early, so you can always go until it feels sketchy, and turn around without losing too much of your day. I would plan on going down Glenclif Trail (AT), so that is more likely to be tracked out and 'followable' in snowy conditions.

 

[Driver8]

I've done the BB Trail a bunch (though not recent enough to give a trail conditions update). I have done it during this time of year, too, and it can be awfully treacherous. There are lots of places to take a bad fall. Personally (and I'm making a speculation as to actual conditions), I would hold off on the BB Trail until it melts out more. Once you get above the shelter, it's not a problem, so I'd wait until the trail is more or less snow and ice free up to that elevation.
I like the Roy approach, too. The steeps come early, so you can always go until it feels sketchy, and turn around without losing too much of your day. I would plan on going down Glenclif Trail (AT), so that is more likely to be tracked out and 'followable' in snowy conditions.

Thank you so much, blacknblue. I've not talked with my hiking partners yet, but personally, I'm leaning this way. Get a look at some of the falls. If somehow it's not too severe, go up that way, but if it's too much, head over to Glencliff, Spot Car 2, then head to Ravine Lodge in Car 1. I definitely want to do the Glencliff Trail to do something new. If we luck out and all goes better than expected, we can pull off the full A.T. traverse.

One question. It looks like the steeps go from 1850' to about 3600'. Is there a certain elevation or way point which should be treated as a turn-back point. Is it the rock face with the wooden steps nailed in? That would be helpful to know - none of the three of us as done BB before, though one of us (not me), has done a ton of White Mountain hiking. We will have a mechanical altimeter as well as standard smart phone functionality.

Come to think of it, I've got to go back and read the trail description in the 4000-footers book.

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Is it the rock face with the wooden steps nailed in?

I doubt the steps will be visible due to snow/ice for a few weeks yet.

 

[Driver8]

I doubt the steps will be visible due to snow/ice for a few weeks yet.

Hadn't thought of that, thanks. So can you suggest any cues on a failsafe turnaround point? It it one of those "I'll know it when I see it things"?

 

[BobC]

I'd strongly recommend bringing crampons along, just in case, since there is some question of whether or not you'll need them. So why worry? The extra weight isn't that much. If you do have to turn around, and you're in Microspikes, you might find that they provided enough traction to go up, but not quite enough to go down, since descending over icy trails can often be more hazardous than ascending, in my experience.

 

[Driver8]

I'd strongly recommend bringing crampons along, just in case, since there is some question of whether or not you'll need them. So why worry? The extra weight isn't that much. If you do have to turn around, and you're in Microspikes, you might find that they provided enough traction to go up, but not quite enough to go down, since descending over icy trails can often be more hazardous than ascending, in my experience.

Yeah, I'm considering bringing rope, too. One of my partners aleady has a fair amount - I'd have to buy it.

 

[TJsName]

I doubt the steps will be visible due to snow/ice for a few weeks yet.

Since a lot of the route down low is rocky, I wouldn't be surprised if there was a lot of loose ice on the trail. I wouldn't plan to do Mossilauke via that route yet because it might not be much fun. I'm willing to bet you could make it up though. Might be better off to wait a couple weeks though. Even once you're up on the ridge, the trail around Mt. Blue has a bunch of steep ups and downs, with a couple of steep drop-offs to the side. If there is a monorail up there, it might be a real pain to stay on top of it.

Asquam ridge is not likely to be well packed. We did it this winter (2 of us) and there was a light pack from a group that went through a week or two before us. I can't imagine many came after us, but who knows. It's a round-about way to get up the hill. If you need Jim for the trailwrights 72 list, I would just hit it from the BB trail and turn around.

 

[Driver8]

Turns out my principal hiking partner for the weekend strained her knee a few days ago and had to bail - just let me know this am. Since I've done Moosilauke before and have another friend who wants to do the N-S A.T. traverse of it this summer, I'm gonna go attempt Eisenhower via the Edmands Path instead. Thanks, everyone, for your advice and insight. Thanks to you, I have a much better sense of the Beaver Brook route in mid-spring. I would love to do it sometime in colder conditions - sometime when I'm in better shape than now. Ike should help with that.

Looking forward to a red-letter day tomorrow. Hope you all enjoy it, whether in the mountains or otherwise.

 

[Lost Dad]

You will likely find Mt. Clinton Rd (access to Edmands Path) closed. Check out the thread on forest service road closings.

Also, I have read some TR's that cite the miserable sidehilling that occurs as the Edmands Path comes out of the woods. Once above treeline, there should not be as much snow, but this area is north facing and it may not have melted as much as one might initially expect. I'd suggest looking for recent trip reports.

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Edmands Path doesn't get much winter traffic due to the closure of the Mt Clinton Road, so whether it opens by the weekend or not is something of a moot point.

If I wanted Eisenhower, I do it via the Crawford Path. Easy grades, about as well-trodden as any year-round, and it loses elevatin only slightly as it passes Pierce/Clinton on the way to Eisenhower. Then, on the way back, I'd take 10 minutes and do Clinton before heading down. You'd get a 2-fer and spend the maximum amount of time above treeline on a beautiful spring day. Win, win, win.

 

[TJsName]

If you're looking to get above treeline, it might not be a bad idea to try out the Jewel trail and go for Jefferson or Washington.

 

[Driver8]

Ended up hiking Jackson and Pierce, with an unplanned overnight at the Mitzpah Hut. It was a long, slow slog for me up Jackson, starting at the W-J split. Monorail commenced there in earnest and with the heat of Saturday it was giving way alot. Spikes to the summit cone, took them off at the final rock ledge - final 50' or so - which was entirely ice free (had heard there was ice up there in the morning, but whatever was there melted).

Heard from several people at the summit that they were staying at Mitzpah, which I'd seen on AMC site was opening Friday on caretaker basis. I'd planned to bag Pierce and go down Crawford as much less treacherous and safer. Reminded about the hut, the new plan was either to stay overnight or skip Pierce and go down the cutoff to Crawford and back to the car.

The Jackson-Pierce strech, after a long, sunny, warm day, featured very unstable monorail which often led to slides even with snowshoes on. I had trouble keeping mine on, as a newbie to them, and that only compounded the excitement.

Mitpah was a sight for sore eyes (and legs, and other parts) when I got to it.

Speaking of sights, the views from Jackson were terrific - all the way to Mansfield and well into northern NH, ME and VT, not quite to the ocean but close the the southeast. I particularly liked the view of Clay from the eastward ledges. Really enjoyed that summit. The grey jays were shy with several of us up there, though one did come up and grab a snack from a fellow hiker while I was there.

Pierce was, to my eyes, especially pretty on the climb from the hut to the west summit, and the famed views from the above-treeline area around the main summit were outstanding. Was a treat to see the high Franconias from the ledge near the West summit, and the great views from near the Webster Cliff-Crawford Path intersection - nice to see Camel's Hump, Ethan Allen, Mansfield and Jay, among others. To the south, I especially liked Chocorua - what a beauty - and from my first view of them last year from Moosilauke, I've always had an eye for the many peaks of Tripyramid.

The trip down Crawford was beautiful, such a pleasure to hike another segment of that great old trail, and the quick sidebar to look at Gibbs Falls was icing on the cake for me. A great weekend of hiking.

Thanks to you all for sharing your insights into conditions. As it was, this weekend, as it it played out, was at the limits of my capabilities at the moment, and you kindly helped me figure out what worked best for me. I hope I can return the favor to you someday soon.

PS: So far, I have enjoyed windless conditions on Washington last June, Flume last December and, now, Pierce yesterday.