Grand Canyon: A Tale of Beauty and Survival (Part II)

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rhihn

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MIRACLE #2: A combination of the shade and the dregs of the Gatorade must have been enough, as she started to come around. Over a period of several minutes her speech became clearer and her mind more lucid. Finally she reached the point where she was clear enough to know where she was and what the circumstances were, though she could not remember anything of the previous hour. She was clear enough for me to leave her and go back and retrieve her pack, which I did. Somehow the camera and empty water bottle must have fallen off on one of her stumbles, as they were not to be seen. I brought the pack back and we sat – and sat, and sat. We suddenly started having doubts: Jack ran into trouble; the group couldn’t find the campsite, or couldn’t find water. Fortunately none of this was the case.

MIRACLE #3: Over a distant rise in the trail ahead we saw a rapidly moving figure, which we recognized to be Lani, though she appeared more like an angel of God. Because of the twists and turns through side canyons it would take her a good half-hour to reach us. She finally appeared bearing the gift of two quarts of “nectar of the Gods,” in addition to enough for her own needs. Commanding both of us to drink, she examined Joanne as I related the events to her. Joanne was complaining of leg cramps and severe weakness at that point, and was unable to stand up. Lani massaged Joanne’s legs. In the chance that Joanne’s water bottle had some water in it, Lani went back for it and the camera, but found only the camera. Shortly thereafter, Mark arrived, bringing more “nectar,” though appearing quite exhausted (a fit man, probably in his late 30’s). After considering various options, the three of us decided to walk Joanne out slowly. She could barely stand at first, then eventually got her sea legs and managed to creep along at a snail’s pace, taking breaks every 50-100 feet or so. I don’t have a clear sense of how long it took to travel the almost two miles to Monument Creek. As we approached the area, darkness was coming on fast. The creek and monument were in a side canyon, which we had to descend steeply, and the trail became more rocky. We donned our headlamps as we came to the trickiest part of the trail to follow. The trail weaved around several formations with cairns to guide us – assuming we could find them all. Finally we saw the light of the camp, and Jan came to meet us with more water. Jack had set up his ground cloth and pillow for Joanne, who immediately crashed and fell asleep. The rest of us watered down, ate, and pondered the many mistakes of the day (without playing the blame-game) and what our next move should be. We chose to sleep on it and decide in the morning.

The next morning everyone was more refreshed, though tired, and Joanne was 75% better. We decided that I should call the ranger on the satellite phone (carried by the front party – TRIP MISTAKE #4),which we had rented to inform him of the incident and Joanne’s condition, and to see what his recommendations were. He quickly agreed with us that we should not attempt the Boucher Trail up to the rim (our original plan), given Joanne’s condition. He gave us permission (we were under permit) to stay another day at Monument Creek, and recommended that Joanne take that time to re-hydrate. We then had two options. First: head east on the Tonto to a dry camp at Salt Creek Camp. Closer Cedar Spring CG was too close, and we were informed that Horn Creek, the third one over, was radio-active. Then head up to the Indian Garden CG on the Bright Angel Trail (with no guarantee of a campsite) and out. The second option: Head west on the Tonto, retracing our steps to the Hermit Trail, continue on to Hermit Creek CG, then back to the junction and up the Hermit Trail. The Bright Angel Trail would have been much easier hiking, but at ten miles, a longer trip, and we were uncertain if Joanne was ready for hauling the required 6 quarts of water to a dry camp. We opted for a return trip on the Hermit.

The extra day at Monument Creek was pleasant and uneventful. Beauty of all sorts was around us, and we spend the day exploring, resting, drinking, and chasing the shade from one side of the CG to the other, and finding it principally under a cottonwood tree and a ledge. Water was plentiful. Camp “amenities” included an ammo box for food storage and a three-seater composting toilet, designed in such a way as to accommodate three at a time with privacy, though each seat is right out in the open. We were not alone at the site; a young couple from Canada was camped above us. The woman, whose expertise had something to do with saving people from rock slides, was almost three months pregnant.

The next day we were to embark for Hermit Creek, but we would not repeat our earlier mistake. We decided we would leave around 5:00 AM to avoid the worst of the sun and to give Joanne full time to recuperate. This meant staying at the Monument Creek CG for the day. Around noon a group of six came through for a lunch break, planning to hike east. I do not know what cosmic force was at work that day, but not only was this group composed partially of musicians with indirect connections to our group, but even those who were not musicians were from the Albany area: Rensselaerville, near our town, and the other from Delmar, where Joanne grew up! They also delivered Joanne’s water bottle, which they had found on the trail. Plenty of lively friendly chatter ensued (probably the only “shop talk” we had during the entire trip), and we then said our goodbyes as they headed east toward the Bright Angel Trail. Jan, Jack, and Mark decided to hike that afternoon, visit Granite Rapids at the Colorado River, and work their way over to Hermit Creek and camp. I had thoughts of joining them, but there was no way I would leave Joanne. At some point during our stay at this campsite, Lani decided to break her little toe. One would think that to be a serious condition so far down in the canyon, but this was one super-human woman, who smiled it off as though it were a bug bite!

We left around 5:00 AM the next morning for Hermit Creek. Joanne was near normal by this time, and the hike proceeded without incident, across the four miles or so to the creek and our next campsite. As we approached the ‘S’ curves of switchbacks down into the creek, we ran into Mark, who on his way out of the canyon. Mark was not feeling well, and decided to leave the canyon on his own. We wished him well, and hoped we would see him again on a future hike. We were now five. Upon entering camp, we found Jan and Jack, who had spent a pleasant night. The site appeared somewhat more “civilized,” with clearly delineated sites, paths, composting toilet, and a “garden” of prickly pear cactus. We quickly scouted out a site and found what appeared to be the best one, up on a rise and under a cliff ledge. Water was flowing freely in the creek, and we discovered a delightful “bathtub” of water with a small waterfall flowing into it. It came equipped with a natural built-in ledge for a seat, shade, and a plentiful supply of fish. Needless to say, we spent a lot of time keeping cool there!
 
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