Hike the Whites Overview July 16-19, 2008

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Pete Hogan

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What a difference a day makes! Or in this case a week. The heat, oppressive humidity and daily thunderstorms with torrential downpours during week of July 20 – 26 prompted a reverent and grateful sigh of relief…for scheduling this year’s hiking trip to the White Mountains during the previous week, July 16 –19! Recalling the planning stages in late March, the dates selected for this outing were based entirely upon the trusted meteorological foresight of the Farmer’s Almanac! The description “sunny and warm” plus the cosmic influence of a full moon during mid-July was enough to book reservations at Joe Dodge Lodge during that time period. The three-consecutive weeknight package for AMC members was excellent so room and board for a hiking team of five was secured on April 2, 2008.

This year’s group consisted of myself; long-time hiking partner and ADK 46er Barb B.; former group member and 46er Barb N.; Dan H., a marathon runner and recent ADK High Peaks inductee; and Mireille P. (aka Mimi), an ADK 46er, marathon runner and Canadian ambassador…eh! This year’s team had an interesting mix of ages (mid-thirties to early sixties) and diverse backgrounds connected by a love for mountain hiking, adventure and the great outdoors. Most importantly, there was a thorough understanding and commitment to the established hiking protocols that have been the core values of this group.

The hiking plans were researched and the itinerary finalized to include: Mt. Waumbek (4006’), South Carter (4430’), Middle Carter (4610’), Mt. Moriah (4049’), Mt. Cabot (4170’) and an optional home travel day hike to Mt. Hancock (4420’) and South Hancock (4319’).

Our base once again was Joe Dodge Lodge in Pinkham Notch. I have been to all of the New Hampshire AMC lodges and mountain huts and have never been disappointed. The facilities are clean, comfortable and very well managed. The food is excellent with generous family style dinners and abundant buffet breakfasts.

With our hikes originating daily from Joe Dodge Lodge, we did not need overnight provisions in our packs this year. That meant significant pack weight reductions that brought happy faces to all. Trip distance and elevation gains did not present anything that we hadn’t done before. A day hike of 7-12 miles was less than usual for ADK 46ers and the 15-mile traverse on the Carter-Moriah Ridge was a common distance for many of the High Peaks of New York State.

All the hiking objectives but one (Mt. Cabot) were accomplished. This was due to a day of persistent thunder, stormy weather and heavy rain. Our planned route was an 11-mile, clockwise loop over Mt. Cabot, the Bulge, the Horn and Unknown Pond. We decided that our enjoyment of this highly recommended wilderness trek in prime moose terrain would be severely compromised by the weather.

Success can be measured many ways. To the extent that we achieved six out of the seven mountain summits in three hike days is (weather-wise) much better than average for a mountainous region as unpredictable as the Whites. Even in the flatlands adverse weather has been problematic this summer so to be able to reach multiple 4000-foot peaks on three out of four consecutive days nearly rain-free is an achievement. I normally plan for a non-hike day to provide a well-deserved hiking hiatus and (just in case) to use the rest day as a hike day if a scheduled hike day has to be canceled. As Murphy’s Law would have it, I did not plan any zero days this time and Mother Nature vociferously reminded me that strategy should always be in the mix.

As much as I am pleased with our hiking success on this trip, I am very satisfied with the people with whom I shared this experience. We hiked together, safely and at a faster-than-book-time pace over very rugged, steep terrain, while always cognizant, respectful and appreciative of each other. We not only shared the beauty of the White Mountains, but we did so with the utmost regard for each other and that raises this experience to a level beyond expectations! Long after the memories of the summits fade, we will still remember the people with whom we shared the experience.

Daily log details to follow.
 
Hike the Whites - Trip Details - July 16-19 2008

TRIP DETAILS

July 16, 2008
Drive to New Hampshire
Hike Mt. Starr King (3907’) and Mt. Waumbek (4006’)

Day 1 Hike Totals: (7.2 miles, 2500’ ascent, Hike Time: 4:49 hours)


The plan was to leave the Starr King trailhead between 10:30 - 11:00 AM. I was pleased to see the entire group at the trailhead when I arrived. The weather was good with a mix of sun and clouds and some humidity. We started hiking at 10:30 AM. We had lunch on the summit of Mt. Starr King at 12:40 PM and shortly after asked another hiker to take our group photo at the fireplace remains of a former shelter.

The mile between Mt. Starr King and Mt. Waumbek was an easy 35-minute walk. Along the way we discovered several fresh, green piles of moose scat and a distinct moose footprint in the center of the trail! For perspective I took a photo of my hand next to the footprint and concluded that this was a very large animal. The puzzling piece was that we found only one, single footprint. We could not come up with any other impressions nearby. So the rest of the ridge walk I was searching all over for a one-legged moose!

The summit of Waumbek was wooded, viewless and uneventful. After a few photos at the summit cairn, we returned to Mt. Starr King via the same route. (Still no one-legged moose!) About halfway there we came upon two young female hikers, each with an unleashed dog - a Doberman and a Pit Bull!

Mimi (who was in front at the time) insisted that the dogs be leashed and taken far enough off the narrow path to allow us to pass with less concern for an uncontrolled leg-lunge…nice doggy…nice doggy!

We happily returned to the trailhead at 4:04 PM and drove the remaining distance to Pinkham Notch where our cozy, clean bunkrooms at Joe Dodge Lodge awaited.

After a good dinner we replenished our packs and prepared for the next day’s hike.

July 17, 2008
Hike South Carter (4430’); Middle Carter (4610’); Mt. Lethe (4584’); North Carter (4530’); Mt. Moriah (4049’).

Day 2 Hike Totals: (15.0 miles, 4650’, Hike Time: 10:40 hrs.)


This was the longest and most challenging hike planned in the trip. We started our three-car shuttle shortly after breakfast to be as close to the planned 8:15 AM start time as possible. Our boots touched the trail at 8:30 AM.

The Carter/Moriah trail is a wonderful traverse of spectacular vistas, beautiful boardwalks, craggy, precipitous descents and strenuous mountain terrain. The fifteen-mile, roller coaster route was challenging with uplifting vertical gains accompanied by vigilant, humbling descents. The weather was perfect with low humidity, a cool, refreshing breeze and sunny skies.

We covered the prerequisite 3.8 mile, 2400’ climb to Zeta Pass in 2:27 hours with several water and short rest stops. After a food break, we continued on the Carter/Moriah Trail to the summits of South Carter, Middle Carter, Mt. Lethe and North Carter.

The pace slowed as we carefully negotiated the rugged, very steep descent to the plateau south of Imp Mountain. Our next stop was at the Imp shelter spur trail where I tacked on an extra half mile to my day with a round trip to the Imp shelter to re-supply my water.

We then began the final push up the wide-open, southern ledges of the Moriah ridge and the seemingly never-ending approach to the Kenduskeag junction. We took several scenic and photographic breaks on the Moriah ledges admiring the beautiful mountain landscapes we had traversed on this great day.

We arrived at the junction of the Kenduskeag Trail at 5:16 PM, exactly 8:00 hours of actual hiking time from our morning start at Nineteen-Mile Brook.
We made short work of the summit spur to Mt. Moriah and took some well-deserved time to congratulate each other on a memorable day in the Whites. Even though we couldn’t actually see our entire route, looking back toward Carter Dome, North Carter and the beautiful mountain ridges in between filled us with a great sense of pride and accomplishment.

The final leg of our journey began at 5:38 PM and covered a 4.5-mile, 3400’ descent that seemed as if it would never end. We were delighted with a delicious surprise on Mt. Surprise…oodles and oodles of wild blueberries! Some time was lost gorging ourselves, but it was worth every tender, sweet bite! Now we know how Mt. Surprise got its name! We ended the day at Mr. Pizza in Gorham where we celebrated with a victory dinner!

Our late return to Joe Dodge Lodge extended our evening as we showered and prepared for the next day.

July 19, 2008

Hike an 11-mile clockwise loop over Mt. Cabot, the Bulge, the Horn and Unknown Pond.

This hike was canceled due to heavy rain and thunderstorms.

July 20, 2008

Drive to Hancock Overlook on the Kancamagus Highway
Hike Mt. Hancock (4420’) and South Hancock (4319’)
Drive Home

Day 4 Hile Totals: (9.8 miles, 2650', Hike Time:6:43 hrs.)


It took an hour to drive from Pinkham Notch to the parking area at the hairpin turn on the Kancamagus Highway. The weather was overcast and humid with storms predicted for the afternoon. We were ready to hike at 9:12 AM.

With the amount of rain that fell the day before, there was some concern about the multiple brook crossings of this hike, but water levels were surprisingly low and we encountered no difficulties. We decided to hike the circuit between the two Hancocks in a clockwise direction. We found reliable footing and excellent trail reconstruction as we huffed and puffed up the relentlessly vertical .7-mile, 1150’ ascent to the Mt. Hancock summit. The trail was steep and rugged but it was only a matter of time and personal resolve before the angle decreased and we were contouring towards the summit.

We took a path to the left as we reached the summit and discovered a picturesque viewing shelf that offered some scenic vistas. Unfortunately, the views came at the expense of a number of trees that someone had “topped off” with a saw. Obviously this was done to clear the treetops and open the views on an otherwise wooded summit. The moment I saw the cut treetops I was abruptly transported back to the real world of stupid people doing stupid things.

We spent little time on the summit of Mt. Hancock as stormy weather was approaching so we quickly ate some food and set off on the Ridge Link toward South Hancock. Our weather concerns heightened with increasingly frequent rumbles of thunder, but the storms seemed to be bypassing the ridge. Light rain started to fall as we reached the lowest part of the ridge.

Just after crossing a deep, wide quagmire, we decided it was time to put on our rain gear. As we suited up, another hiker reached the far end of the bog. I offered him the use of a set of trekking poles and he thankfully accepted. After tossing the poles across the length of the 30-foot mud pit, the hiker began picking his way across the muck. He paused momentarily on the slippery end of a small, half-submerged log where he had to make a long leap of faith to a tiny rock island before reaching the opposite shore. He carefully planted the poles (halfway up to the grips) and with all his might pushed off his log and safely landed on the rock. A boyish grin of relief came over his face as he celebrated successful crossing. Suddenly he exclaimed, “oh-no!” Glancing down, he realized that the mud had completely sucked off the bottom section of one of the trekking poles. The tip segment was just barely sticking out of the ooze back where he had started. Ever so cautiously, he balanced himself on one pole, daringly leaned out over the muck toward the stuck pole, barely got a grip on it, rocked it back and forth and slowly freed it from the mud’s grasp. His performance was as good a balancing act as any the Flying Wallendas had ever staged!

We reassembled the trekking pole and ascended the final approach to the summit of South Hancock. The rain had ceased (as soon as we put on our rain gear), but the thick murkiness obscured any summit view. So we started our steep (1000’), but short (.5-mile) descent on the South Link to close the Hancock loop at the North Link junction. With the circuit complete, we returned to the Hancock Overlook parking seventeen minutes faster than it took on the way in.

We sadly said goodbye and started for home reliving the wonderful memories of this year’s adventure and honoring the people who made it so special!
 
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