T
Tramper Al
Guest
Long Trail Odyssey - Monroe Skyline
Friday June 4:
I had spent Thursday doing a little NECoHP bushwhacking with a couple of VFTTers. On Friday afternoon, my Dad was kind enough to meet me in Jonesville, where we left my car. Shuttling down to Ripton, with great views of the entire ridge en route, we spend a few hours with family before he dropped me off at the trailhead in Middlebury Gap around 7:00 pm.
The sky was crystal clear this evening, as I climbed up out of the gap with my heavy multi-day pack. My arrival at Boyce Shelter, 90 minutes later, was announced by a big barred owl watching me pull in. It was still very light out, and I have a great look at this magnificent bird. No one else there, I settled in for a good night's sleep. Who cooks for you?
Saturday June 5:
I awoke around 5:30 to the songbirds, but I took a while to get going. It was about 45F, and I have lately been in the habit of cooking (and eating) breakfast from within my sleeping bag. This was to be the clearest, dryest day in recent history, however, so I did want to get going. I was looking at a little over 16 miles to my new home at Battell shelter.
This was the day of the seven hills: Boyce, Battell, Breadloaf, Wilson, Roosevelt, Cleveland, and Grant. I found glorious views from Breadloaf (spur) and Roosevelt particularly, though Grant was nice too. I made certain to top out on all of these 3000 footers (you just never know).
I pretty much stopped for water at every shelter, carrying about 2 liters at a time. There was sometimes not much for water between. I encountered the first human beings of the trip, a father and son team headed south for an overnight. Somewhere in there, I lost one of my favorite shirts (tied, not well, to my pack).
At Lincoln Gap, late in the day, I finally began to see day hikers, as this was one fabulously clear Saturday to climb Abraham. Nice to chat with several of them on my way up. I must have looked pretty worn out by then. The toughest mile by far that day was my 16th and last, as I was climbing much of my 8th hill (Abraham) to get to camp.
Saturday night, first weekend after Memorial Day, crystal clear skies. I expected to see the caretaker and half of Vermont staying at Battell, but I found I had it all to myself. I was working my way though my various tea, cocoa, and soup courses, warm and toasty, when the last of the day hikers passed just before dusk, wishing me a great and peaceful night in the forest. Wish granted.
Sunday June 6:
I slept very well in my little 3-sided GMC shelter on the shoulder of Mt. Abraham. In fact, the 10 hours of hiking the day before seemed to require an equivalent amount of time lounging in my sleeping bag. My rations increased for the miles, I breakfasted on my usual fresh brewed coffee and a quart of instant breakfast drink, plus grits and pepperoni.
This was the day of the VT 4000 footers. I had resolved not to climb Abraham and Ellen until I had reached them on the AT/LT from Kent, CT, and the day had finally arrived. Abraham I found to be an excellent unspoiled alpine peak. I stopped off to visit the small plane wreckage just north of the summit - I don't know the story. From there it was an outstanding ridge walk which includes the tops of four (yes 4) ski lifts, before dropping back down towards Appalachian Gap. I saw no one on this entire section. It looks like there are several good winter routes that could be used to reach both of these 4K's in a single nice trip.
As usual, my late afternoon task was to climb up out of a gap and road crossing, continuing north on the trail. I briefly stopped in at Birch Glen Camp (really nice), then continued on toward my destination, Cowles Cove Shelter.
Out in the middle of the forest, in Huntington Gap, I briefly joined, then crossed the Catamount Trail. How may states have an 85 year old end-to-end hiking trail AND a dedicated 300 mile backcountry ski trail? Do we know how fortunate we are?
I was joined at the 'Cove by a couple of youngster end-to-enders, who entertained me with tales of bizarre characters they have met on the trail. I hope I didn't do anything to earn a prominent place in their weird tales of the trail! To bed at dusk after another 16+ miles, every bit well earned.
Monday June 7
This was to be my last day in the woods, if I were to return to civilization on schedule. As warned in the shelter's register, we were all awakened about 5 am by a hairy woodpecker drilling the structures metal roof, over and over again. What's up with that? So, I cook up my huge breakfast and try to get packed up as quietly as I can. My clear blue skies have given away to rain clouds, and I'll have some light sprinkles falling on me early on.
I have to say now that I believe that the Camel's Hump is the crown jewel of the whole Monroe Skyline, and consequently of the Long Trail. I made my way up through the forest and out onto the ledges, the sun came back out. I had brilliant views of the Whites, Lake Champlain, and the Adirondacks, as I had each day out there. The trail gave way to steep slabs as I scrambled up the last 300 feet to Couching Lion's summit. The summit area is very nice, and there is no ski lift (imagine that).
Nine miles later, after a few more downs and ups and the final road walk, and I was back at my car in Jonesville, feeling quite good about my Long Trail Adventure. Time to head home at last.
The Monroe Skyline: Three full days, 3 NE 4Ks, 2 NE100's, about 51 miles on the trail, and lots of time to think, and so much more to which I cannot give full justice. I highly recommend it. Long live the Long Trail!
Friday June 4:
I had spent Thursday doing a little NECoHP bushwhacking with a couple of VFTTers. On Friday afternoon, my Dad was kind enough to meet me in Jonesville, where we left my car. Shuttling down to Ripton, with great views of the entire ridge en route, we spend a few hours with family before he dropped me off at the trailhead in Middlebury Gap around 7:00 pm.
The sky was crystal clear this evening, as I climbed up out of the gap with my heavy multi-day pack. My arrival at Boyce Shelter, 90 minutes later, was announced by a big barred owl watching me pull in. It was still very light out, and I have a great look at this magnificent bird. No one else there, I settled in for a good night's sleep. Who cooks for you?
Saturday June 5:
I awoke around 5:30 to the songbirds, but I took a while to get going. It was about 45F, and I have lately been in the habit of cooking (and eating) breakfast from within my sleeping bag. This was to be the clearest, dryest day in recent history, however, so I did want to get going. I was looking at a little over 16 miles to my new home at Battell shelter.
This was the day of the seven hills: Boyce, Battell, Breadloaf, Wilson, Roosevelt, Cleveland, and Grant. I found glorious views from Breadloaf (spur) and Roosevelt particularly, though Grant was nice too. I made certain to top out on all of these 3000 footers (you just never know).
I pretty much stopped for water at every shelter, carrying about 2 liters at a time. There was sometimes not much for water between. I encountered the first human beings of the trip, a father and son team headed south for an overnight. Somewhere in there, I lost one of my favorite shirts (tied, not well, to my pack).
At Lincoln Gap, late in the day, I finally began to see day hikers, as this was one fabulously clear Saturday to climb Abraham. Nice to chat with several of them on my way up. I must have looked pretty worn out by then. The toughest mile by far that day was my 16th and last, as I was climbing much of my 8th hill (Abraham) to get to camp.
Saturday night, first weekend after Memorial Day, crystal clear skies. I expected to see the caretaker and half of Vermont staying at Battell, but I found I had it all to myself. I was working my way though my various tea, cocoa, and soup courses, warm and toasty, when the last of the day hikers passed just before dusk, wishing me a great and peaceful night in the forest. Wish granted.
Sunday June 6:
I slept very well in my little 3-sided GMC shelter on the shoulder of Mt. Abraham. In fact, the 10 hours of hiking the day before seemed to require an equivalent amount of time lounging in my sleeping bag. My rations increased for the miles, I breakfasted on my usual fresh brewed coffee and a quart of instant breakfast drink, plus grits and pepperoni.
This was the day of the VT 4000 footers. I had resolved not to climb Abraham and Ellen until I had reached them on the AT/LT from Kent, CT, and the day had finally arrived. Abraham I found to be an excellent unspoiled alpine peak. I stopped off to visit the small plane wreckage just north of the summit - I don't know the story. From there it was an outstanding ridge walk which includes the tops of four (yes 4) ski lifts, before dropping back down towards Appalachian Gap. I saw no one on this entire section. It looks like there are several good winter routes that could be used to reach both of these 4K's in a single nice trip.
As usual, my late afternoon task was to climb up out of a gap and road crossing, continuing north on the trail. I briefly stopped in at Birch Glen Camp (really nice), then continued on toward my destination, Cowles Cove Shelter.
Out in the middle of the forest, in Huntington Gap, I briefly joined, then crossed the Catamount Trail. How may states have an 85 year old end-to-end hiking trail AND a dedicated 300 mile backcountry ski trail? Do we know how fortunate we are?
I was joined at the 'Cove by a couple of youngster end-to-enders, who entertained me with tales of bizarre characters they have met on the trail. I hope I didn't do anything to earn a prominent place in their weird tales of the trail! To bed at dusk after another 16+ miles, every bit well earned.
Monday June 7
This was to be my last day in the woods, if I were to return to civilization on schedule. As warned in the shelter's register, we were all awakened about 5 am by a hairy woodpecker drilling the structures metal roof, over and over again. What's up with that? So, I cook up my huge breakfast and try to get packed up as quietly as I can. My clear blue skies have given away to rain clouds, and I'll have some light sprinkles falling on me early on.
I have to say now that I believe that the Camel's Hump is the crown jewel of the whole Monroe Skyline, and consequently of the Long Trail. I made my way up through the forest and out onto the ledges, the sun came back out. I had brilliant views of the Whites, Lake Champlain, and the Adirondacks, as I had each day out there. The trail gave way to steep slabs as I scrambled up the last 300 feet to Couching Lion's summit. The summit area is very nice, and there is no ski lift (imagine that).
Nine miles later, after a few more downs and ups and the final road walk, and I was back at my car in Jonesville, feeling quite good about my Long Trail Adventure. Time to head home at last.
The Monroe Skyline: Three full days, 3 NE 4Ks, 2 NE100's, about 51 miles on the trail, and lots of time to think, and so much more to which I cannot give full justice. I highly recommend it. Long live the Long Trail!
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In any event, the moose seem to have been pretty "active" through there.
