North Brother 2/18/07

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michael

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Jan 28, 2006
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Location
Richmond Maine on the mighty Kennebec!
After breaking trail on the Williams Pond Road Friday morning and arriving after dark to our lean-to at Nesowadnehunk Field , the boyz and I took a slack day on Saturday and set up shop in the recently vacated bunkhouse. Good thing we did because the conditions were ripe for a near epic adventure along the Marston Trail to North Brother and Fort and we would need every ounce of reserve energy for a successful day in the mountains.
After Wil's exceptional spaghetti dinner Saturday night, we all hit the hay early and awoke at 3:45 to prepare for our day in the woods. Andy hit the road at 4:30, being eager to finish his NEHH no doubt. Peak baggers can be so pushy can't they? :rolleyes:
Meanwhile the rest of the Croo straggled out by 5am and we were all marching in the silent predawn air to Marston Trail trailhead 3 miles down the road.
An hour and 15 minutes later the late departees arrive at the Martson Trail and the Croo plunges into the fresh powder of the Marston Trail. The last party in the trail register indicates 12/28 as the last time anyone traveled this trial - definitely no help in terms of trail breakage so off we go.
The going was moderate to steep, the snow deep and the pace steady. At first anyway. We bang out the first chunk to the Coe Trailhead in an hour and a half...about .8 miles per hour. Nothing spectacular about that trailspeed. There were a couple blowdowns but that wasn't really an issue. It was the snow. At times it was deep and unconsolidated other times loose and unmanageable. Mostly, if you were in the lead, you step up to it and push down, it holds for a second and gives. You find yourself bracing for the 'give' and you sowly work the snow down and move on, yard by yard.
Ka-chunk, Ka-chunk, Ka-chunk...the cadence was steady but not too fast.
We initially traded off after 10 - 15 minutes but as we headed up from the cirque we shortened the lead to 5-10 minutes because the going was now about 1/2 a mile per hour and falling as the snow got deeper and the terrain steeper. It was quite a workout.
At some point we all realized that Fort Mt was history on this day but no one said a word about it until we reached the junction with the Coe Trail.
But in the name of community service we were determined to get a trail out to North Brother. We were feeling pretty good as we sat around eating lunch before our final push to the summit of North Brother. How hard can .8 miles be, right? I mean some of that would be above treeline and the slope would be windswept and thus there would be less snow loading. That turned out to be true but the 1/2 mile from the base of the summit cone to treeline a mere 400 or so of vertical was without a doubt the deepest snow yet and that .8 miles took us 3 hours. We're talking yards per hour here. At one point I was using my hands to pull down the semi-consolidated-but-too-weak-to-hold-my-weight blocks of snow by driving my hands into the snow 2 feet ahead, snow that was now chest high, pulling the 'quarried' chunks behind me and stepping up to the next batch. On and on it went with each of us vigorously working the mounds of snow in front of us. The folks at the back often waited 5 or 10 minutes before moving that next 10 feet and so we all got cold as we waited for the work crew to push the trail forward.
We finally arrived at some snow that was able to support 200 lbs or so and we made some better progress finally arriving near treeline around 3:45pm. We had been on the trail for 11 1/2 hours. 10 of it breaking trail. We were focused though and prepared for the elements and so we pushed on.
TommyC was the first to gain the summit, myself, andy and pete soon followed. Wil, who worked hard as a bull all day, turned around before treeline and headed for the bunkhouse. He was played. We spent only 15 minutes soaking up the vftt, pleased at the effort we had just put forth and amazed at the deep unforgiving snow. It was more than we expected, but not a complete surprise. It was the unrelenting and seriously deep and difficult snow that kept us from Fort mountain. That and the time. 3 hours to go .8 miles, who knows how long it would take to get to Fort? The snow is no doubt loaded deeper than what we saw all day so we saved Fort and Andy's 100 highest completion for another day.
Andy did finish his NewEngland 4k though so we were still happy for him and not a one of us regretted the accomplishment nor did we bemoan the fact that one of our goals was not attained, it was a great day and one that saw each member contribute significant time and energy for the team. It was tough sledding at the front of the line and oddly enough everyone was eager to take the lead so seemingly personal had the struggle become.
A solid effort indeed.
At any rate, the return trip to the trailhead took us only 2 1/2 hours and the road walk was almost 3 hours in a gentle but steady snow in the moonless night. This road walk was especially tough after a long day busting snowdrifts and we all staggered back to the bunkhouse by 9:15pm. We had just put in a 17 hour shift. The beer went down eagerly as did a fine Beef stew specially prepared for ths trip by Pete's wife. We shot the breeze until 1:30 am crashed and headed out at 9am this morning tired, achey and satisfied. A great weekend of fun in one of my favorite parks.
There's now a fine broken trail to North Brother should anyone be heading to BSP in the near future and are looking to get a couple of the more remote winter NE 4k peaks.

pictures are here: http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/557743044xqCdfS
 
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Very nice report and great pictures. I love North Brother. Only done it once, can't wait to do it again.
 
Michael and Croo!!

WE owe you BIG TIME, my brothers!

Our group is heading in this next weekend the 24th, and I believe another party is following us a few days later.

We experienced similar conditions in the winter of '04... all day just to do the roundtrip to N Brother through the deepest snow I've ever experienced. Exhausting work ! Last year, conditions were perfect with only a few inches of powder on top of a solid, consolidated base. I'm with you though, Baxter is a unique adventure everytime!

Thanks again!! We owe your croo a round or two!
 
side note*

We met BSP Ranger Jody on Saturday - she used to live at Nesowadnehunk Field for 10 years and she says that she used to break the Marston trail. I assume she meant as part of their winter Ranger duties. We tried to bribe her out of 'retirement' but she just chuckled as she sat on her brand new Ski-doo.
Also, we were unaware of this at the time but the lean-tos had been moved and the bunkhouse was new and in a new spot, not that it was hard to find.
However, as we had had a hard day breaking out the Williams Pond road - until a pair of sledders finally showed up and plowed out the last mile - and we arrived at 'Sowdy Field in the dark and based on what I knew 3-4 years ago we assumed that the lean-tos were on the approach to the Doubletop Trailhead. There was one and three of us piled in and got warm and started cooking food. The other two went looking for another lean-to. They were gone. We laughed at them and assumed that they were joking.
But they went to talk to the folks in the bunkhouse who let them warm up inside and explained how the lean-tos had been moved, out to the field proper, about 2 or threee years ago.
*had a snippit in here about BSPs website showing incorrect info -
I was incorrect in stating so - I swear it was from a good source ;) and have removed it so as not to besmirch the fine reputation of the BSP Authority- michael*
 
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michael said:
But the maps at the ranger station and the BSP website still show lean-tos in the old locations. Hello BSP web guru, please take note!
I stand corrected arm! :eek: my bad!
one of our party had referred to an older web map of the 'Sowdy field layout....or perhaps a different site :confused: at any rate,
none of us was aware of the changes, never thought to ask because we had been thinking we would get to 'Sowdy Field well before dark and would have a clear view of the situation. As it turned out, breaking out the Williams Pond Road was pretty tough going and we did not arrive at camp until 7ish. Where are those sledders when you need them?! And the fact that one of the Lean-tos was still there (not indicated on the BSP map) threw us off momentarily.
 
mhrsebago said:
Michael and Croo!!

WE owe you BIG TIME, my brothers!

Our group is heading in this next weekend the 24th, and I believe another party is following us a few days later.

We experienced similar conditions in the winter of '04... all day just to do the roundtrip to N Brother through the deepest snow I've ev er experienced. Exhausting work ! Last year, conditions were perfect with only a few inches of powder on top of a solid, consolidated base. I'm with you though, Baxter is a unique adventure everytime!

Thanks again!! We owe your croo a round or two!

mhrsebago,

I hope the big storm that everyone is talking about 'possibly' hitting us this weekend holds off just a day or so for you folks. And despite the possibility of wind and associated drifting between now and next weekend, I bet the trail will be in fine shape and easy to re-pack if you have to - unless said storm drops another 2 feet and then all bets are off! :D ...you are planning a Brothers adventure, yes?
I hope you get out to Fort if you go that way - we'd be quite pleased if you availed yourselves of the trail we packed out.
That mile to Fort is going to certainly keep you busy for a couple hours should you go for it.
Me and the Croo wish you the best of luck next weekend!
We found that the mini-keg of Gritty's Pub Style was not enough to sate our ravenous thirst after this effort....better bring back-up! ;)
ps...the Coe Trail was not packed out at all.
 
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