Polarizing filter

[dvbl]

Have read alot about polarizing filters, but I'm interested in your experience/preference:

1) When do you use it?

2) When do you absolutely NOT use it?

 

[Mark Schaefer]

1. When to use it:

There are very few scenic photographs that will not improve with the use of a polarizer filter. The effect can easily be seen with a dSLR camera as you rotate the filter to obtain its maximum affect. I leave my polarizer filters on my lenses most of the time when shooting scenics. Only rarely do I take them off.

The polarizer's primary effect is to remove or reduce glare and reflections on shiny surfaces. This will increase the intensity of the colors in your photographs. On a bright day if you are close to a subject, e.g. a broad leaf plant or a wet rock, you will easily see the large "hot spot" of glare. Turn the filter and watch the glaring "hot spot" start to disappear. Then imagine a forested and grassy hillside. Although you may not see the individual leaves, conifer needles, and blades of grass, each one is reflecting light from the sun and bright sky. When you turn the polarizer filter you will reduce or eliminate all of those microscopic glare "hot spots". This will increase the color saturation of the hillside.

The same principle works for the sky. The atmosphere is full of water vapor. Each of those microscopic droplets has a "hot spot" of reflected light. Turn off that glare and the sky become deeper blue.

The polarizer is also very useful around waterfalls and streams. Wet rocks and the surface of the stream reflect much light, and the glare will detract from the waterfall or stream. Turning off those reflections and glare "hot spots" will result in a more pleasing photo.​

2. When to consider not using it, or to use it at more minimal settings:

The polarizer effect is greatest when you are photographing at a 90 degree angle to the direction of sunlight. So if the sun is directly behind, you will not see much of an effect. My general rule is if I do not see any effect, I remove the polarizer from my lens. Removing the filter may make a low light photo easier to hand hold, as the polarizer reduces 1-2 stops of light from reaching your camera.

Sometimes the effect of the polarizer is "too much". Wide angle lenses illustrate this. Your photograph will include both the portion of sky at a 90 degree angle to the sun (which will become dark blue), while other areas which will be lighter shades of blue. The result may appear very unnatural. In this case do not rotate the polarizer to its maximum effect. I have also taken some high contrast photos where the sky became nearly black from over polarization. With film you might not notice that until the slides or prints come back from the processor. With a digital camera you will be able to notice this if you review your photos in the field.

Other examples. Wildlife in open shade and forest areas. Photographs of people in controlled environments (e.g. indoors or in open shade, provided there are no reflections on glassy surfaces to worry about).​

 

[w7xman]

I agree, there are very few times when I wouldn't use it. It helps such a wide variety of shots.

I wouldn't use it on shots where I want a reflection, or shots where I need the two stops of light that the filter reduces the exposure by. Also, I wouldn't use it on Wide Angle lenses, wider than 20 with the sky included.

Ultimately, leave it on, and if you see no effect, or if it reduces an effect that you want, take it off, otherwise, enjoy the benefits.

 

[Mark Schaefer]

Reflections and refractions (rainbow)

Thanks Jim, I was already planning to add some notes concerning reflections as subjects. I take many photos of reflections on pond and stream surfaces, and for those I do not use a polarizer as it would remove my subject. When I shoot at a very low angle (from a low embankment), a distracting glare is often present on the water. To remove that you need to visit at a time when the surface of the water is in shade, but the objects being reflected on the far shore are still catching sunlight. That is often in early or late hours of daylight. That eliminates the glare and preserves the reflection. When you are photographing from a higher angle (from a high embankment) the glare is generally not a problem, and I often get good reflections any time of the day without glare.

In a photo that combines polarizable foliage on the far shore and water reflections -- it becomes a compromise. It may be possible to dial the polarizer part way to increase color saturation and preserve some of the reflection. Choose what looks best in the dSLR or SLR viewfinder.

Rainbows are refracted light, but share some of the challenges of reflections. Rainbows exist at 42 and 51 degree arcs around the antisolar point (a point below the horizon opposite the sun's position). That is not at the optimal 90 degree angle from the sun, but that is enough for some polarization. At the maximum setting the polarizer may appear to eliminate a rainbow. If you need to polarize for color saturation in the landscape or sky, a partial turn of the polarizer may be best. Again rely on what you see in the viewfinder.

 

[dvbl]

Thanks for the great feedback.

 

[darren]

One other thing of interest to us hikers is that you need to be careful when using a polarizer at altitude. If you are over 12,000' or so a polarizer can turn the sky black. A little goes a long ways when you are up high. Of course if you are shooting B&W then black might be good...

- darren

 

[ghassert]

One other thing of interest to us hikers is that you need to be careful when using a polarizer at altitude. If you are over 12,000' or so a polarizer can turn the sky black.
- darren

Would you use any type of filter at altitude? I pretty new to photography and I've almost always used a polarizer on bright sunny days and I'm going to be heading to the Eastern Sierra Nevada's in September.

Thanks,

Glenn

 

[darren]

You can still use a polarizer, but just be more careful with it than you would be at lower elevation. With digital cameras now you can see if you mess up so you can try again. I had some shots ruined on slides back in the day.

As for other filters, you can use GND filters with no problems. i don't really use any other filters, so that's the end of my experience.

- d

 

[ghassert]

As for other filters, you can use GND filters with no problems. i don't really use any other filters, so that's the end of my experience.

- d

Thanks Darren, so far I've only used a polarizer and am just starting to look into ND's.

When using the ND filters, do you use the regular screw on or do you use the Cokin system? I've been looking at the Cokin and it looks pretty interesting.

Glenn

 

[Brambor]

I don't like the use of a polarizer. Instead, choose to photograph before sunrise or very early in the morning or right after sunset or during sundown. It's hard to say this as you might argue that you can't wait for a photograph if you're on the move. I would agree to that, however in my experience, midday photographs from the mountains look too 'burned' to my eye. One has to choose carefuly to avoid this undesired effect.

 

[darren]

Thanks Darren, so far I've only used a polarizer and am just starting to look into ND's.

When using the ND filters, do you use the regular screw on or do you use the Cokin system? I've been looking at the Cokin and it looks pretty interesting.

Glenn

I use the rectangular GND filters in a Cokin holder. The screw on ones would be too limiting.

The Cokin holder is good but their GND filters are not neutral. They put a grey cast on the picture. To get a true neutral density filter you need to spend bucks and get a quality one like a Singh Ray or a Lee.

I probably have a Cokin GND filter layng around if someone wants it to try it out. They would have to get a holder though, I use mine.

-d

 

[w7xman]

I use the rectangular GND filters in a Cokin holder. The screw on ones would be too limiting.

The Cokin holder is good but their GND filters are not neutral. They put a grey cast on the picture. To get a true neutral density filter you need to spend bucks and get a quality one like a Singh Ray or a Lee.

I probably have a Cokin GND filter layng around if someone wants it to try it out. They would have to get a holder though, I use mine.

-d

I agree with darren in all this, except that you don't need to spend Singh Ray/Lee type of money for a good cast free filter, as I've been very happy with HiTech. These all fit in the Cokin P holder by design.

 

[dvbl]

I don't like the use of a polarizer. Instead, choose to photograph before sunrise or very early in the morning or right after sunset or during sundown. It's hard to say this as you might argue that you can't wait for a photograph if you're on the move. I would agree to that, however in my experience, midday photographs from the mountains look too 'burned' to my eye. One has to choose carefuly to avoid this undesired effect.

Well, in a perfect world, sure. I think most would agree that sunrise/sunset are the best times for photos. However, the practical reality is that more often than not we are on the summits somewhere near mid-day, plus or minus two hours.

 

[kmorgan]

Aritcle on Polarizers

Good site with lots of information. Here's the article on polarizers.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/polarizers.shtml

Kevin