Voile 3-Pin Cable Binding Jig Template

[Rick]

I didn't use a mounting template back in 1999 when I was mounting my Voiles, but I am wondering if it matters. If so, does anyone have a copy of the mounting template??
Otherwise, I simply find Chord Length and then take 1/2 of that (I do BP on my NNN bindings for skinnier skis), mark the ski and make sure the 3 pins line up with that mark, tap the spots for the holes. Use a 9/64 bit to drill in and then blow them out and fill with wood glue. After the bindings are mounted, I put the boots in and then mark and repeat for the the heel plates.

Has anything changed?

Thanks and Merry Christmas.

 

[DougPaul]

Pretty much the same. I put wide masking tape on the top of the ski and draw all my marks on it before drilling.

1. find ski center by whichever of several methods-chord center is popular. (Some mount a little forward of center for better turning or big feet.)
2. Pin line goes on center. Single screw is 1 inch forward of pin line, centered (left-right).
3. Drill for single screw. Mount binding by the single screw. Put shoe in binding, center heel. This gives binding position. Drill for remaining 2 screws.
4. Mount heel plate under boot heel.

Use a depth stop on the drill bit--you have the correct size.
Remount screws with waterproof glue.
Many don't bother to tap ski.
Use a Pozidrive screwdriver.

There are also instructions at http://www.telemarktips.com.

Doug

 

[Hollywood]

I have a template for a Voile Hardwire 3-PIN and it indicates the pins should be mounted over the cord center versus the balancing point. If you need a pdf copy I can send it, but your plans sound correct to me.

Happy Skiing!

 

[dave.m]

Regarding position of the binding fore and aft, different skis and different uses dictate different positons.
http://home.comcast.net/~pinnah/DirtbagPinner/binding-location.html

Regarding the use of a template, I don't bother. Some boots have variations in them that make them not line right. IMO, it's better to mount the front screw first, then check the alignment of the heel with the boots before drilling the rear 2 screws.

I always use a small hole punch to start the holes. Acts as a pilot for the dril bit
http://home.comcast.net/~pinnah/DirtbagPinner/mounting-bindings.html

 

[skiguy]

I always use a small hole punch to start the holes. Acts as a pilot for the dril bit

I find this to be an effective method of making a starter hole but I take it a step further if the ski has a metal top sheet and/or a binding plate. After drilling I will actually tap the hole to create thread lines for the incoming screws. This will insure that the screws will sink into the ski thereby pulling the binding all the way down flush with the top sheet. If you don't tap the holes (again we are talking about skis with metal in them; especially top layers) the screw stands a chance as you are screwing them to pull up on the metal in the ski and not down on the binding. By tapping you are creating an insert for the screw which lands up making for a much cleaner mount. Also if you have to remove the binding for any reason the screws can be removed much cleaner without taxing the top sheet material. I would check with the manufacturer of your skis to see what they are made of to determine if any metal is present.

 

[Rick]

Folks - Thanks for the replies...Worked Perfectly!!! I spent a few hours Christmas day mounting my old Voile Cable bindings to my new XTC-GTs (Courtesy of EMSD and the 25% Friends and Family discount).
I dol ike the masking tape idea. Wish I saw it before I drilled - Woudl have eased that bit of angst of drilling I get when drilling into a new set of skis.

Since my handheld drill doesn't have a depth gauge* I checked the screw length and put a piece of duct tape on the drill bit to mark the depth. Thought it worked pretty well.

*My hammer drill has a depth gauge , but when I fire that up all the lights dim and I can't see what I am doing

The other thing I learned years ago at binding parties was that if you don't have a posidrive you can grind down an old phillips head (large size) screwdriver. Fortunately I still had the makeshift posidrive (stuck to a leaking tube of klister) in the bottom of my wax box.

BTW, I have been having a lot of fun in my skiis, standing on cardboard in my basement, practicing for real snow. Is any one cardboard better than another for standing around pretending to be on real snow!!!!

 

[DougPaul]

I dol ike the masking tape idea. Wish I saw it before I drilled - Woudl have eased that bit of angst of drilling I get when drilling into a new set of skis.

Works for me. If you make a mistake, you can just rip it off and start again.

Since my handheld drill doesn't have a depth gauge* I checked the screw length and put a piece of duct tape on the drill bit to mark the depth. Thought it worked pretty well.

Tape around the bit is what I always use...

*My hammer drill has a depth gauge , but when I fire that up all the lights dim and I can't see what I am doing

Battery operated headlamps have multiple uses...
Besides, I don't think I want to use a hammer drill on skis.

The other thing I learned years ago at binding parties was that if you don't have a posidrive you can grind down an old phillips head (large size) screwdriver. Fortunately I still had the makeshift posidrive (stuck to a leaking tube of klister) in the bottom of my wax box.

Akers Ski carries them. The Binding Buddy also has a posidrive bit. Try one and you will never go back to a ground phillips.

Doug

 

[Rick]

Battery operated headlamps have multiple uses...
Besides, I don't think I want to use a hammer drill on skis.

LOL.....
I used that Bosch Drill for years to drill through concrete foundations and the like. It is about 18-20 inches long and looks like a machine gun wth the side grip attachment.

I did bring it to a binding party once before - Everyone else had small cordless drills and I whipped that thing out - I was THE MAN, babeee!!!!!!

FWIW when working on skis, I try to keep th hammer function turned off - But I gotta admit.... that tat-a-tat-tat action is kinda cool....