The Grafton Loop Trail has been of interest to me since it opened. It goes through some potentially nice territory and I wanted to see how a new trail built to current trail standards would look like though northern forest type terrain.
The option of hiking it came down to a two night backpack or splitting it into two long dayhikes and using a bike at the end of the hike to get back to my car. Althouhg I like long distance backpacking I choose the option of a dayhike on the west side of the loop. The only map I could put my hands on was the brochure on the MATC website, althouhg I suspect that the new MMG has one. I also has my trusty USGS Speck Mountain topo which doesnt show the trail but is of value in getting a idea of the terrain in the area and giving cluse to some of the odd features that I would occasionally see.
I drove over from Gorham after pulling my 40 year old Schwin Varsity bike out of the attic of my garage. I think the last time it was out was a few years ago on a similiar hike so I pumped up the tires, did a quick check out and drove over to the AT crossing on RT 26 at Grafton Notch. I was running late but did meet Cinders Mom and one other VFFT hiker in the parking lot. I was in a bit of a rush so we didnt talk for long. I quickly found a somewhat inconspicious spot in the brush to lay the bike down and chained it up to a tree. The advantage of using a 40 year old bike is not many people would want to steal it and its built like a tank (and weighs like one also).
I drove south to the parking lot on the east side of RT 26 and got on the trail at 8:45 AM. The start of the hike is bit interesting, there is zero blazing along Rt 26 but there is a sign as the trail leaves the west side of the road (no parking). The lack of blazing continued, although there was signage although obscured by vegetation that directed hikers in the right direction. This area is multiple use with logging roads snowmachine trails all weaving in and out. Eventually the trail entered the woods for one last time and the blazing started. I expect there may be issues with blazing in the first stretch of private land but from then on it was top quality and spaced to current standards. The trail then settled into following a brook bed up the mountain. Near the top of the brook I passed but didnt visit the Bald Mtn campsite. Eventually the trail diverged and started a mixture of slabbing contours and straight up spots that inevitably were hardened with stone staps and one long series of "ladders". Water bars were plentiful and remained that way for much of the trip. Once at or near the top of Bald Mtn the trail headed over to Stowe mtn which had a few open rocky areas but obscured views to the south. It was exceptionally clear but as I would find out, this hike is not a "view a minute" and is much more remiscient of the LT in Southern VT (with a lot less mud).
The trail then traversed the ridge over to Sunday River Whitecap. For a mountain with no established trails, it is a very impressive summit worthy of 52 with a view designation. Hard to beat 360 degree views and an extensive area of open ledge similiar to Red Ridge on Moat Mountain. There was multiple signage on the mountain asking folks to stay on the path due to the extensive alpine zone. It was a tad bit breezy and cool so I didnt take a long break but it was a 100 mile plus view day for sure. While heading down, I encountered one youth group and two solo backpackers. That was the sum total for hikers I saw all day on the GLT. I was somewhat curious about unofficial access to this summit as is a very nice place to visit, As I reached the Miles Notch col, I saw a distinct trail (somewhat obscured) heading up from RT 26. I took a GPS fix and it lines up with the projection of the brook that feeds Screw Auger Falls. The USGS maps show a couple of old logging roads heading up that way so I expect with a bit of looking a day hike of Sunday River Whitecap is probably not a long day. (its on my list to revisit).
The trail from Moody Notch then slabs down a bit to avoid Slide Mountain and then follows a contour line for a couple of miles passing through classic mature Northern Hardwood Forest. The trail also passes a couple of tentsites. I didnt go down to them but I saw some ground water so I expect these sites have water. The trail then slabs up the slopes of a unnamed SW sub peak of Old Speck. This section of of trail is quite well built. It climbs steadilly but not too steeply. Sort of reminds me of Garfield or the firewardens trail up Hale (minus the bulldozer track). Eventually it tops out on this SW ridge which has a steep dropoff down to RT 26. From there the trail starts to zig zag its way up Old Speck with very few steep ups and in most cases very well drained with a lot of rock work. Unfortunately at this time of the hike and day, the multitudes of switchbacks started to wear on me. I didnt count, but there must be 30 plus switchbacks. Eventually I came out of the woods at the old firewardens cabin site and then out to the tower clearing. I didnt stay long and didnt climb the tower, but I was a bit bummed that the the nice picnic table that had been on top was trashed.
The hike down Speck felt long, as I passed the old Firewardens trail turn off, I briefly considered it but with the woods being damp, I wasnt in the mood for a steep climb down a eroded ditch on wet rocks. Although the AT down Speck to the Eyebrow trail junction is well built and well graded, the lower section is showing its age. The trailbed is eroded and there are several areas where the only choice is to go down or across a wet slab, easily this lowest section of the AT down from the upper Eyebrow trail to the lower junction was the worse section of trail I hiked all day.
I got out to the parking lot at 6:30 PM, nine hours and 45 minutes to do 17.6 miles. I was worn out but I dragged out the Schwinn and proceeded to coast most of the way down the Rt26. One thing I didnt consider with this option is the pavement on RT 26 is in rotten shape and the Schwinn lacks any suspension and has skinny high pressure tires. I also didnt have a good pair of glasses so I "ate" a few bugs, but in about 20 minutes my car came into sight.
Given the lack of views except for Sunday River Whitecap and Speck, I expect that the west side GLT will remain a good long distance backpacking loop. The trail bed and grading is exceptional and some of the finest consistent work I have seen in Maine. With regards to dayhiking it, its a long day although I exepct trail runners coudl make good time given the great footbed.
The option of hiking it came down to a two night backpack or splitting it into two long dayhikes and using a bike at the end of the hike to get back to my car. Althouhg I like long distance backpacking I choose the option of a dayhike on the west side of the loop. The only map I could put my hands on was the brochure on the MATC website, althouhg I suspect that the new MMG has one. I also has my trusty USGS Speck Mountain topo which doesnt show the trail but is of value in getting a idea of the terrain in the area and giving cluse to some of the odd features that I would occasionally see.
I drove over from Gorham after pulling my 40 year old Schwin Varsity bike out of the attic of my garage. I think the last time it was out was a few years ago on a similiar hike so I pumped up the tires, did a quick check out and drove over to the AT crossing on RT 26 at Grafton Notch. I was running late but did meet Cinders Mom and one other VFFT hiker in the parking lot. I was in a bit of a rush so we didnt talk for long. I quickly found a somewhat inconspicious spot in the brush to lay the bike down and chained it up to a tree. The advantage of using a 40 year old bike is not many people would want to steal it and its built like a tank (and weighs like one also).
I drove south to the parking lot on the east side of RT 26 and got on the trail at 8:45 AM. The start of the hike is bit interesting, there is zero blazing along Rt 26 but there is a sign as the trail leaves the west side of the road (no parking). The lack of blazing continued, although there was signage although obscured by vegetation that directed hikers in the right direction. This area is multiple use with logging roads snowmachine trails all weaving in and out. Eventually the trail entered the woods for one last time and the blazing started. I expect there may be issues with blazing in the first stretch of private land but from then on it was top quality and spaced to current standards. The trail then settled into following a brook bed up the mountain. Near the top of the brook I passed but didnt visit the Bald Mtn campsite. Eventually the trail diverged and started a mixture of slabbing contours and straight up spots that inevitably were hardened with stone staps and one long series of "ladders". Water bars were plentiful and remained that way for much of the trip. Once at or near the top of Bald Mtn the trail headed over to Stowe mtn which had a few open rocky areas but obscured views to the south. It was exceptionally clear but as I would find out, this hike is not a "view a minute" and is much more remiscient of the LT in Southern VT (with a lot less mud).
The trail then traversed the ridge over to Sunday River Whitecap. For a mountain with no established trails, it is a very impressive summit worthy of 52 with a view designation. Hard to beat 360 degree views and an extensive area of open ledge similiar to Red Ridge on Moat Mountain. There was multiple signage on the mountain asking folks to stay on the path due to the extensive alpine zone. It was a tad bit breezy and cool so I didnt take a long break but it was a 100 mile plus view day for sure. While heading down, I encountered one youth group and two solo backpackers. That was the sum total for hikers I saw all day on the GLT. I was somewhat curious about unofficial access to this summit as is a very nice place to visit, As I reached the Miles Notch col, I saw a distinct trail (somewhat obscured) heading up from RT 26. I took a GPS fix and it lines up with the projection of the brook that feeds Screw Auger Falls. The USGS maps show a couple of old logging roads heading up that way so I expect with a bit of looking a day hike of Sunday River Whitecap is probably not a long day. (its on my list to revisit).
The trail from Moody Notch then slabs down a bit to avoid Slide Mountain and then follows a contour line for a couple of miles passing through classic mature Northern Hardwood Forest. The trail also passes a couple of tentsites. I didnt go down to them but I saw some ground water so I expect these sites have water. The trail then slabs up the slopes of a unnamed SW sub peak of Old Speck. This section of of trail is quite well built. It climbs steadilly but not too steeply. Sort of reminds me of Garfield or the firewardens trail up Hale (minus the bulldozer track). Eventually it tops out on this SW ridge which has a steep dropoff down to RT 26. From there the trail starts to zig zag its way up Old Speck with very few steep ups and in most cases very well drained with a lot of rock work. Unfortunately at this time of the hike and day, the multitudes of switchbacks started to wear on me. I didnt count, but there must be 30 plus switchbacks. Eventually I came out of the woods at the old firewardens cabin site and then out to the tower clearing. I didnt stay long and didnt climb the tower, but I was a bit bummed that the the nice picnic table that had been on top was trashed.
The hike down Speck felt long, as I passed the old Firewardens trail turn off, I briefly considered it but with the woods being damp, I wasnt in the mood for a steep climb down a eroded ditch on wet rocks. Although the AT down Speck to the Eyebrow trail junction is well built and well graded, the lower section is showing its age. The trailbed is eroded and there are several areas where the only choice is to go down or across a wet slab, easily this lowest section of the AT down from the upper Eyebrow trail to the lower junction was the worse section of trail I hiked all day.
I got out to the parking lot at 6:30 PM, nine hours and 45 minutes to do 17.6 miles. I was worn out but I dragged out the Schwinn and proceeded to coast most of the way down the Rt26. One thing I didnt consider with this option is the pavement on RT 26 is in rotten shape and the Schwinn lacks any suspension and has skinny high pressure tires. I also didnt have a good pair of glasses so I "ate" a few bugs, but in about 20 minutes my car came into sight.
Given the lack of views except for Sunday River Whitecap and Speck, I expect that the west side GLT will remain a good long distance backpacking loop. The trail bed and grading is exceptional and some of the finest consistent work I have seen in Maine. With regards to dayhiking it, its a long day although I exepct trail runners coudl make good time given the great footbed.
