ADK: Sand Lake from Star Lake (attempt)

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Dana

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Sep 3, 2003
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Location
usually somewhere in Harriman...
In some ways it was neat, in some ways it was the trip from hell. The plan was to start from Star Lake and hike to Cage Lake on Saturday afternoon. Sunday we'd go to Sand Lake the next day, hopefully arriving early enough to relax for awhile, then start heading back on Monday and get reasonably close to the trailhead for an easy morning hike out on Tuesday.

That was the plan. We arrived a bit late, hitting the trail around 2:30 p.m. in a relentless drizzle. Still, it was warm enough that we shed the raingear after a short time. The trail wasn't too bad at first, but we soon joined up with the main trail which is shared with snowmobiles and ATV's going to a private inholding on Buck Pond. From there on the trail is a MESS! As much mud (foot deep mud puddles the full width of the trail) as dry spots. We slogged on, anyway.
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Around Little Otter Pond the trail (an old railroad bed) goes underwater due to beaver flooding around the lake. There is a trail that goes around some of the worst of it, but at one point the only logical way around was to shuck our boots and wade across. Wouldn't have been fun at all if it wasn't warm.
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Beyond the pond there are more flooded areas.
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We slogged on, some dry spots and lots more mud, until arriving at Buck Pond near the private camp. Here we got a bit messed up after taking an unmarked trail around some nasty mud, and it was getting dark, but we pressed on, arriving at Cage Lake lean-to around 9:00pm. Fortunately the ATV's aren't allowed past Buck Pond so the trail was in much better shape. A very nice spot, but for the bags of garbage left behind by slobs. Lots of pots and pans in the lean-to, also.
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The next morning the rain had stopped and it promised to be a nice day. We headed out, nothing notable except for some very neat old beaver dams,
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until we reached the swamp before Wolf Pond. The ADK guide book says "it can be crossed on beaver dams." Well, there were no beaver dams, but there were stretches of open water 10' wide and 6' deep. At the worst point, there was the remains of an old log bridge, 2' underwater and very shaky... maybe 10% chance of making it across and staying dry.
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It was here that we turned back, and after some brief discussion we decided it was too late in the day to try to bushwhack around it, even if we could find a way across, knowing also that we'd have to return Monday (which would be a long day's hike as it is), so we reluctantly hiked back to Cage Lake for a second night, where we ate the steaks and drank the Scotch and wine we had hoped to enjoy at Sand Lake.

Monday morning we hiked back to Little Otter Pond and spent the night there. Off a side trail up the hill we found the remains of an old cabin, really a log frame tent that somebody had built and tacked plastic over, with a stream nearby. However, Alan wanted to camp closer to the lake, so I gave in and we found a spot near a dry section of the old trail (where it had been bypassed by the new trail due to flooding). Big mistake.

After setting up and cooking dinner, we lay back and looked at the stars... didn't look like rain so we didn't set up the tarp (we use bivy sacks and tarps, never a tent). Around midnight I woke up to a few drops of rain, so we got up, set up the tarp, and went back to sleep.

Sometime later, perhaps around 3 a.m., we awoke to a thuderstorm of biblical proportions. Oh well, the combination of the tarp and my bivy were keeping me dry and warm... but Alan's old bivy sack was leaking from underneath, yes, water was running down the hill and under us. Around 6:00 a.m. he couldn't take it any more, it was still pouring, but we packed up our soggy gear and hit the trail. The only real loss was my digital camera, which despite being in a ziplock bag and inside my pack, covered by the pack cover, somehow managed to get soaked. A few hours later we were heading down the road in dry clothes, and at 11:00 a.m. we were consuming burgers and beer in Tupper Lake.

We'll be back next fall, only this time we'll either hike in from Wanakena via the 5 ponds, or paddle up the Oswegatchie as far as we can, then hike from there.

-Dana
 
We took a day hike to Little Otter Pond this past May and encountered muddy conditions on the ATV trail and beaver flooding near the Pond, but nowhere near as bad as your photos and report describe. It seems odd that it should be worse after this dry summer than it was then. That trail could be a poster child for why ATVs have no place in the forest preserve.

In September 2002, we were also thwarted in our attempts to reach Sand Lake. We had paddled up the Oswegatchie to Round Hill Rapids, where the bridge crosses the river. We hiked to Big Shallow, and spent the night in the leanto there. The trail had not been easy to that point (a very tricky beaver dam crossing and some overgrown sections) but when we climbed the esker the next morning and made our way to Little Shallow, we encountered conditions that we considered too dangerous to continue. The saplings growing up in the areas that had been ravaged by the 1995 microburst were so incredibly thick that we could not see the trail without parting the tangle with our trekking poles. We were carrying heavy packs (it was supposed to be a five day trip) and were constantly stumbling and tripping over roots and other nasties hidden in the underbrush. Being so far from the trailhead, and with the knowledge that my wife would probably not be able to get herself out if I should do a number on myself, gave us pause. When we got to Little Shallow (it took us over an hour to go, IIRC, 7/10 mile) the journal there was full of reports that conditions did not improve for another two miles or so.
Reluctantly we retraced our steps.

We wound up camping at the attractive site just above the bridge (known as Moore's Camp) and did some day hikes to the Plains and elsewhere, but we regret that we didn't make it to Sand Lake. I don't know if any maintenance has been done on the trail since, but I suppose that eventually the saplings will grow up enough that their shade will open up the undergrowth some.

Paddling up to the bridge seems like a better idea than hiking from Wanakena (why tote it when you can float it?), and in fact when the bridge collapses (which it has been threatening to do for some time as the river bank erodes) it will not be replaced, according to the Five Ponds UMP. At that point, the only option for accessing the trail will be by canoe.

If you get to Sand Lake before we do, have one for us!
 
We tried it from Wanakena a few years ago, but we wandered around a bit and never got past Big Shallow (a very neat place in its own right). Yes, we were very surprised at the sheer amount of water in what should have been a dry season... justgoes to show you never know in the 'dacks.

-Dana

When you were born, you cried and the world rejoiced...
Live your life so that when you die, the world cries and you rejoice.
-- Cherokee saying
 
Nice TR and pics. Looks like a very interesting area in spite of(or because of) :) the water.
 
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