una_dogger
Well-known member
Peaks Climbed: Baxter and Hamlin
~13.5 miles, ~4800 ft gain
Saturday night after we returned to camp, we had just enough time to boil up some cheese tortellini, down a beer, and wash up before the rain began to fall. We crawled into our sleeping bags and after reading about 1/4 of a page of the AMC Guide's description of the Hunt Trail, I was fast asleep.
We had decided that we would awake at 6am the next morning, since we were camped a stone's throw from the trailhead. I think they call this the French Canadian alpine start?? In anycase, we kept hitting snooze until 6:40 am, so we hit the trail a bit later than we planned. Our boots were still soaked, as were our packs, but we toughed it up and geared up for the day's hike.
The weather conditions posted at the start of the Hunt Trail described a "Class II" day, travel above treeline not recommended with a chance of thunderstorms and gusting winds. We didn't let the ominous forecast get us down, though, and proceeded onward. It was a little warmer than saturday, the temperatures not getting below 65 degrees during the night.
The Hunt Trail is the Appalachian Trail, and even though its heavily used, it was still not as erroded as most of the major trailed peaks' in the Whites or Adirondacks. After about a mile of easy walking, we reached the base of Katadhin Falls, and crossed a wide bridge and then began to climb up the side of the falls, through a narrow trail surrounded by mountain laurel, some still in bloom. I thought to myself, what a wonderful experience this must be for a thruhiker to enjoy such a premier trail at the end of thier 2100 mile journey.
The trail soon began climbing, and the trail for the next one mile was rough -- rugged boulders, roots, and handbuilt stairs. Some places would have benefitted from rock ladders, as there were the beginnings of erroded herdpaths around the pitches. We crossed paths with a trail crew working on extending the stone staircases, and a few groups of hikers descending, dayhikers in sneakers and jeans, some with packs, some without.
At approximately 2.5 miles we broke treeline. With still about 1500 feet to the Table Lands, the flat plateau that forms the expansive alpine meadows along the top of the Katahdin massif; we still had quite a bit of elevation to cover in the next one mile or so. Massive boulders construct the trail, and the climbing became a sort of jungle gym for the next one half mile. Lots of upper body strength and mental concentration needed for this section, which for the most part I found alot of fun, although my motivation was somewhat tempered by the soreness I felt from yesterday's hike and the ominous weather forecast. But the wonderful views of the Klondike, The Owl, and the range we covered yesterday kept me going.
Following some of the rock blazes was perplexing! I commented to MichaelJ that those who blaze trails must have tall people in mind, because I almost always chose a different bouldering route than the white blazes suggested! A steep pitch and then a walk across a narrow stone bridge gave me pause, then an iron rung came into view and the way up became clear. A few more rungs and interesting manuevers, and we reached a shelf. The trail stretched out for about one tenth of a mile along a flat stretch, and a much needed break was taken. Above us towered the Gateway, looming as a pinnacle of rock at the top of a jagged network of tablet shaped slabs. One more half mile of steep climbing, although this time through angular slabs instead of over smooth obelisks. Katadhin is a very neat mountain. It has a bit of everything!
In this section we began to pass descending hikers, nearly every group contained at least one poor soul who was afraid of heights. I encouraged a middle aged woman, who's kids had bounded ahead of she and her husband, as he coaxed her through a dizzying section. She did fine. Soon we reached the top, and entered the TableLands, a broad expanse of alpine meadows. Every where we looked, we saw interesting rock formations, sheer dropoffs, and updrafting clouds clinging to the sides of the mountain. A man hiking with his father asked us to take thier picture. From their accents, we guessed they were from the south, and I later speculated that the younger man was visiting Katadhin on the anniversary of a thru hike (his beard and lean muscular body gave it away); to return to the mountain and share it with his father. Even if that is not the case, it made me smile to think it so. MichaelJ obliged them by taking many photos, and we carried on.
The summit was just a short climb away, and I felt a sudden surge of energy, and hotfooted it up. I first walked to the amazingly tall cairn and tapped it with my poles. Then I visited the infamous Katahdin summit sign. Lots of good energy here! What a spiritual mountain. I waited on the summit for MichaelJ. We spoke with the small gathering at the summit, and then headed off for Hamlin. No one on the summit seemed to know that there was another destination besides Baxter Peak!
MichaelJ was feeling tired and since he'd been to Hamlin before, we agreed that he'd wait for me at the Baxter Cut Off junction, and that I'd quickly run out to Hamlin and back. It was about 1.5 from that point one way, a steady drop of maybe 400 feet, then a climb of about 300 feet to Hamlin. As I began heading down from the junction, Hamlin was encircled by a large cloud that was moving up from the Chimney Pond Area. I kicked it into high gear, crossed the plateau where the Cathedral and Saddle Trails descend, passing a few groups on thier way up to Katadhin. Once I got past those approaches, I saw no one. I pushed myself on my solitary climb, then reached the hieght of land. I was expecting the Hamlin Spur to break off toward the summit, but my trail kept going. I was a bit confused, because the map showed Hamlin as the first "bump", but the trail seemed to be aiming at a distant bump that was at least another mile away.
The views of the Brothers, Fort and Coe were beautiful, but there were some very dark clouds moving in my direction from there. I began to feel uneasy, contemplating what might occur when the dark clouds from the south encountered the misty white clouds coming up from Chimney Pond. I pushed on a bit harder, and came to the junction, which did seem to overshoot the peak then make its approach, a short distance and easy climb defined by large cairns. I got to Hamlin, and I was in a cloud. No views anywhere, just the eerie feeling of a storm brewing. The winds picked up, and I tapped the summit, then turned back to rejoin MichaelJ. I felt very vulnerable out in the open, and although I had spent alot of energy getting out here, I once again kicked in into high gear, sucking down a tube of Gu on my way. The final climb up to the junction where MichaelJ waited seemed steeper this way. The foreboding clouds still hung in the distance, and the storm seemed less likely. Suddenly I felt very tired. Michael and I had about five more miles to go to reach camp.
At the top of the Gateway, we met with another group of hiker's pausing before descent. We all muttered that we wished there was an easier way down! MichaelJ and I started down. This section, while easier on the way up, seemed harder to negotiate on the way down; with some of the drops dizzying. Then we reached the bouldering section, which was harder on the way up, seemed easier on the way down. Funny how that happens. Then came the long rocky section. I really began to run out of energy. MichaelJ hit a stride and asked if he could go ahead. I really began to run out of steam and get clumsy, losing my footing twice and getting minor abrasions.
I caught up to MichaelJ, who was waiting for me, and asked if we could stay together. I was *that* whupped. The final two miles seemed like an eternity, but we passed the time chatting. Soon we were back at the Falls, and the final mile drifted by.
When we returned to camp, our elderly camp neighbors, who had wished us luck as we departed that morning, cheered our return. It had been many years since they'd climbed the mountain, but they still remembered the combined feelings of exhaustion and elation. Katadhin is an impressive mountain and it leaves its mark.
Back at camp, we took off our boots, took a dip in the stream, and then climbed into comfy flannel clothing, sipped beer by a roaring fire, and thought back upon our time here in Baxter. Moments after we got into the lean too, a torrential rain began to fall, and it continued all night. They say everything is bigger and better in Texas, but I'd argue that Baxter State Park has the one-up. Even the rain storms are epic! I can't wait to go back...
Pics are here
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8EYuWzNs1bsQk¬ag=1
~13.5 miles, ~4800 ft gain
Saturday night after we returned to camp, we had just enough time to boil up some cheese tortellini, down a beer, and wash up before the rain began to fall. We crawled into our sleeping bags and after reading about 1/4 of a page of the AMC Guide's description of the Hunt Trail, I was fast asleep.
We had decided that we would awake at 6am the next morning, since we were camped a stone's throw from the trailhead. I think they call this the French Canadian alpine start?? In anycase, we kept hitting snooze until 6:40 am, so we hit the trail a bit later than we planned. Our boots were still soaked, as were our packs, but we toughed it up and geared up for the day's hike. The weather conditions posted at the start of the Hunt Trail described a "Class II" day, travel above treeline not recommended with a chance of thunderstorms and gusting winds. We didn't let the ominous forecast get us down, though, and proceeded onward. It was a little warmer than saturday, the temperatures not getting below 65 degrees during the night.
The Hunt Trail is the Appalachian Trail, and even though its heavily used, it was still not as erroded as most of the major trailed peaks' in the Whites or Adirondacks. After about a mile of easy walking, we reached the base of Katadhin Falls, and crossed a wide bridge and then began to climb up the side of the falls, through a narrow trail surrounded by mountain laurel, some still in bloom. I thought to myself, what a wonderful experience this must be for a thruhiker to enjoy such a premier trail at the end of thier 2100 mile journey.
The trail soon began climbing, and the trail for the next one mile was rough -- rugged boulders, roots, and handbuilt stairs. Some places would have benefitted from rock ladders, as there were the beginnings of erroded herdpaths around the pitches. We crossed paths with a trail crew working on extending the stone staircases, and a few groups of hikers descending, dayhikers in sneakers and jeans, some with packs, some without.
At approximately 2.5 miles we broke treeline. With still about 1500 feet to the Table Lands, the flat plateau that forms the expansive alpine meadows along the top of the Katahdin massif; we still had quite a bit of elevation to cover in the next one mile or so. Massive boulders construct the trail, and the climbing became a sort of jungle gym for the next one half mile. Lots of upper body strength and mental concentration needed for this section, which for the most part I found alot of fun, although my motivation was somewhat tempered by the soreness I felt from yesterday's hike and the ominous weather forecast. But the wonderful views of the Klondike, The Owl, and the range we covered yesterday kept me going.
Following some of the rock blazes was perplexing! I commented to MichaelJ that those who blaze trails must have tall people in mind, because I almost always chose a different bouldering route than the white blazes suggested! A steep pitch and then a walk across a narrow stone bridge gave me pause, then an iron rung came into view and the way up became clear. A few more rungs and interesting manuevers, and we reached a shelf. The trail stretched out for about one tenth of a mile along a flat stretch, and a much needed break was taken. Above us towered the Gateway, looming as a pinnacle of rock at the top of a jagged network of tablet shaped slabs. One more half mile of steep climbing, although this time through angular slabs instead of over smooth obelisks. Katadhin is a very neat mountain. It has a bit of everything!
In this section we began to pass descending hikers, nearly every group contained at least one poor soul who was afraid of heights. I encouraged a middle aged woman, who's kids had bounded ahead of she and her husband, as he coaxed her through a dizzying section. She did fine.
Soon we reached the top, and entered the TableLands, a broad expanse of alpine meadows. Every where we looked, we saw interesting rock formations, sheer dropoffs, and updrafting clouds clinging to the sides of the mountain. A man hiking with his father asked us to take thier picture. From their accents, we guessed they were from the south, and I later speculated that the younger man was visiting Katadhin on the anniversary of a thru hike (his beard and lean muscular body gave it away); to return to the mountain and share it with his father. Even if that is not the case, it made me smile to think it so. MichaelJ obliged them by taking many photos, and we carried on. The summit was just a short climb away, and I felt a sudden surge of energy, and hotfooted it up. I first walked to the amazingly tall cairn and tapped it with my poles. Then I visited the infamous Katahdin summit sign. Lots of good energy here! What a spiritual mountain. I waited on the summit for MichaelJ. We spoke with the small gathering at the summit, and then headed off for Hamlin. No one on the summit seemed to know that there was another destination besides Baxter Peak!
MichaelJ was feeling tired and since he'd been to Hamlin before, we agreed that he'd wait for me at the Baxter Cut Off junction, and that I'd quickly run out to Hamlin and back. It was about 1.5 from that point one way, a steady drop of maybe 400 feet, then a climb of about 300 feet to Hamlin. As I began heading down from the junction, Hamlin was encircled by a large cloud that was moving up from the Chimney Pond Area. I kicked it into high gear, crossed the plateau where the Cathedral and Saddle Trails descend, passing a few groups on thier way up to Katadhin. Once I got past those approaches, I saw no one. I pushed myself on my solitary climb, then reached the hieght of land. I was expecting the Hamlin Spur to break off toward the summit, but my trail kept going. I was a bit confused, because the map showed Hamlin as the first "bump", but the trail seemed to be aiming at a distant bump that was at least another mile away.
The views of the Brothers, Fort and Coe were beautiful, but there were some very dark clouds moving in my direction from there. I began to feel uneasy, contemplating what might occur when the dark clouds from the south encountered the misty white clouds coming up from Chimney Pond. I pushed on a bit harder, and came to the junction, which did seem to overshoot the peak then make its approach, a short distance and easy climb defined by large cairns. I got to Hamlin, and I was in a cloud. No views anywhere, just the eerie feeling of a storm brewing. The winds picked up, and I tapped the summit, then turned back to rejoin MichaelJ. I felt very vulnerable out in the open, and although I had spent alot of energy getting out here, I once again kicked in into high gear, sucking down a tube of Gu on my way. The final climb up to the junction where MichaelJ waited seemed steeper this way. The foreboding clouds still hung in the distance, and the storm seemed less likely. Suddenly I felt very tired. Michael and I had about five more miles to go to reach camp.
At the top of the Gateway, we met with another group of hiker's pausing before descent. We all muttered that we wished there was an easier way down! MichaelJ and I started down. This section, while easier on the way up, seemed harder to negotiate on the way down; with some of the drops dizzying. Then we reached the bouldering section, which was harder on the way up, seemed easier on the way down. Funny how that happens. Then came the long rocky section. I really began to run out of energy. MichaelJ hit a stride and asked if he could go ahead. I really began to run out of steam and get clumsy, losing my footing twice and getting minor abrasions.
I caught up to MichaelJ, who was waiting for me, and asked if we could stay together. I was *that* whupped. The final two miles seemed like an eternity, but we passed the time chatting. Soon we were back at the Falls, and the final mile drifted by.
When we returned to camp, our elderly camp neighbors, who had wished us luck as we departed that morning, cheered our return.
It had been many years since they'd climbed the mountain, but they still remembered the combined feelings of exhaustion and elation. Katadhin is an impressive mountain and it leaves its mark. Back at camp, we took off our boots, took a dip in the stream, and then climbed into comfy flannel clothing, sipped beer by a roaring fire, and thought back upon our time here in Baxter. Moments after we got into the lean too, a torrential rain began to fall, and it continued all night. They say everything is bigger and better in Texas, but I'd argue that Baxter State Park has the one-up.
Even the rain storms are epic! I can't wait to go back...Pics are here
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8EYuWzNs1bsQk¬ag=1
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