BLM-Graham-Doubletop-Big Indian-Eagle-Balsam Traverse (10/11)

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the_swede

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Let me preface by saying this was one heck of a day hike!

Ralph, Jeff and I met up at the Rider Hollow trailhead at just after 7 AM and carpooled over to Millbrook Road where we would begin the epic hike. At about 7:30, we geared up and hit the trail, moving at a brisk 3 mph pace up BLM. The pleasant walk up BLM was accompanied by Jeff sharing his knowledge of the Gould family history and Ralph pointing out game trails and animal tracks. By 8:30 we arrived at the summit. A crew working at the fire tower had arrived shortly before we did and were kind enough to show us the inside of the tower and the cabin.

After thanking the crew, the three of us headed down BLM and made our way along the old relay station road up Graham. We found a nice viewpoint at which we could hear cows mooing all the way down in the valley. Just a short hike up from the viewpoint was the summit. Looking over at BLM, it already seemed like we had come a long way. However, looking towards Balsam Mountain, it was clear that we had a long way to go. A power bar later, we were ready to begin the bushwhack section of the hike! A compass bearing of about 130 degrees would take us to the North summit of Doubletop.

This section of the hike was completely new to all of us; even Ralph, the Grid Legend, had never crossed directly from Graham to Doubletop! In a few minutes, it became apparent why not even a legend like Ralph wouldn't take this route. The descent to the Graham-Doubletop col was 1,000 feet and from the col to the summit was 1,000 feet, all in under 2 miles. We pushed hard up to the summit of Doubletop, where we eventually found a maze of herdpaths leading to the canister. We signed in, took some pictures, at some power bars and headed for the South summit. We found ourselves navigating through a pleasant balsam forest and in no time, we arrived at the property boundary on the South summit of Doubletop. Ralph guided Jeff and me to the lookout ledge where we stopped for lunch. Both Jeff and I noted the sheer cliffs somewhere out on Big Indian. Ralph said he had never explored that part of the mountain but told us how he once stumbled across the pigeon hole on the side of Doubletop while off-course on his way to Big Indian. Spooky. After lunch, Ralph showed us the plane wreck where a handful of people died. Even spookier.

The bushwhack down to the Doubletop-Big Indian col was pleasant, with the sun filtering through the yellow leaves. Jeff said he felt like he was in "yellow land". The three of us fell a bit off course of our 90 degree compass bearing, dropping off the side of the col but we easily compensated and found ourselves constantly crisscrossing the poorly defined property line until we were at the apex of the col. After another quick break, we started up the Big Indian ridge and then shifted course toward the summit massif. In no time, we plopped out onto the trail. What a relief! From here on out, it was like a walk in the park (yeah, right... :p).

Unfortunately, at this point, it was clear that Jeff was beginning to suffer the consequences of hiking in a brand new pair of boots. Ralph and I slowed down the pace a bit and waited up for Jeff at the Big Indian herd path junction. Just a quick jaunt up the path and we arrived at the summit canister. Ralph and I took pictures while Jeff got a head start back to the trail. While heading down Big Indian, we ran into two backpackers from Paramus, NJ who were on their way to the lean-to between Big Indian and Eagle. Of course I had to throw in the NJ1K Club pitch to these guys.

The hike up Eagle was a piece of cake and the incline was barely noticeable. At the summit path junction, Ralph and I waited up for Jeff, who was in even more pain. While waiting for Jeff, Ralph called up Maddie, who delivered the news that a steaming pot of venison stew and cold brews were anticipating our arrival. If that didn't motivate us all, I don't know what else would!

At the Eagle-Balsam col, the sun was beginning to go down so we all cracked out the headlamps. However, once we started up the mountain the fading glow of the sun behind the horizon was enough. Just before the sun was about to set, we reached the viewpoint on Balsam where we admired the glowing landscape and pondered life's great mysteries.

The final portion of the hike, from Balsam to Rider Hollow was a fast paced race to take advantage of the remaining photons of light available. Once the sun finally set, the headlamps turned on and Ralph, A.K.A. Nightdog showed Jeff and me how he earned the nickname. With the prowess of a mountain goat, Ralph negotiated the steep slopes of Balsam into Rider Hollow with me and Jeff trailing behind. We slowed down the pace a bit at this point, making sure that everyone was together. Not far from the Rider Hollow lean-to, I heard my first owl hoot. Very eerie in a spooky, dark hemlock grove. We could see a glowing fire out in the distance, probably from the lean-to, which made Rider Hollow seem even more eerie. The last mile or so was slow going, with my poor friend limping along like a wounded puppy :(. Finally, we arrived back at the car at 8 PM where we hastily packed our gear into the trunk and drove back to Ralph's car at Millbrook Road.

About 45 minutes later, we met back up with Ralph at his home, where he graciously offered us warm venison stew. By this time, it was 10 PM, the three of us were exhausted and Jeff and I didn't want to overstay our welcome, so we thanked Ralph for his Catskills expertise and hospitality and made the long haul back to Jersey.

All in all, an excellent way to spend a beautiful fall day. The 20+ miles and 5,000+ feet of gain that we hiked, both Jeff and I agreed it was probably the toughest day hike we've done. Towards the end there, I was really starting to feel the fatigue set in while Ralph still looked as fresh as a spring chicken. :D Probably the most impressive section was between Graham and Doubletop. The drop was much bigger than any of us had imagined and the notch between the mountains was only a few feet wide; it was very Catskillian.

Pics: http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesh...07209.344582207209.1223923623552&conn_speed=1
 
I had a real good time hiking with You and Jeff. Thanks for posting the report and pictures Eric. We will have to come up with some more interesting traverses.I was thinking about a 10000' vertical traverse,Kaaterskill High peak with the Devil's path thrown in:eek:.That would be about 32 miles .A 2 bowl of Wheaties is the a.m. hike.:D
 
This was a hike that Flammeus and I begged off - Tom and I both got powerfully ill (upper resp. virus), and wished you guys well, but we were in no shape to take this on.

I suspected that Doubletop would be the most intense part of the journey. Tom and I still need it :) perhaps we can drag you all back there at some point - maybe a threesome - DT, BI and Fir?

Did you guys do Belleayre?

I am so sorry I missed Maddy's venison stew!!!

:)
H&F
 
We did not hike Belleayre,Jeff was having some boot problems. He was determined to make it over Balsam. In the pain he was in a lot of people would have quit ,but he held in there for the # 6 -3500 peak in the traverse.He had a problem with his knee also,and was starting to slow down. I have done the Fir-Big Indian-Doubletop hike many times,it's another good one.
 
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