Eagle slides and Rocky Ridge

[Jacko]

Hiked 8 May
Six of 3 experienced climbers 3 novices set off at 8.30am
The bushwack up Roaring Brook was less wet than expected.
The scree area below the slide was nasty with continuous rock falls - needed rapid careful ascent
We routed through the Eagles 'head' (the cleanest line that takes you closest to the summit)
The first 100 ft was steep and the novices needed roping for security. The rock was surprizingly dry making it easier than previous ascents. What a great view of Keene valley and the Eagle bowl!!
Continued onward over Rocky Ridge and marvelled at the views of emerging spring foliage. Back to the pre -positioned car at 8.00pm.
We encountered one or two blackfly nibbles and the occasional old snow drift. It will not be long before those black monsters are out in force.
A long but very rewarding day - this has to be one of the best trips for unrivaled views in the Daks.
Next day white water on the Saranack River - rested the legs, and discovered another adrenaline boosting sport
I dont know how to better this trip - I'll have to think hard.

 

[Guinness]

I have done the Eagle 3 times including once with the Rocky Ridge traverse. Each time I see a trip report of someone doing it, I want to get back there even more. It truly is one of the best hikes in the daks. Glad you had a great trip – congrats!

 

[Jacko]

Thanks for the feedback ADK4457. I have done the Eagle four times - each time is different. I have found the central part via the head to be the best whereas the right side has a lot of loose rocks. Do you or anyone have any reports on the left side?
Also what of the other slides in the bowl how do they compare? I have contemplated doing them but the draw to the Eagle is always too great.
I forgot to mention that eventhough this recent time was the driest yet - there was still the odd patch of ice! One day I'll get to do it in rock shoes and run up!

 

[Guinness]

Hi Jacko,

I also will be looking for more information. I have been looking at the "Bottle" located on the far left. I understand there is a wall at the top and if anyone has been there, let us know what to expect. Otherwise I plan on being back there in mid June for 3 days and if I am climbing solo, I will probably try the left side on one day and straight up the middle on the next.

Ed

 

[Reekee]

Roaring Brook

We did the Eagle slide in winter a few years ago. We went straight up the brook and found it to be extremely slow going as there was alot of "over and under" for several hours to gain the slide. Is there a better summer route to gain the slide?

 

[masshysteria]

While you folks are discussing slides on Giant, what about the slides on the east face? Are they climbable without technical gear? Do they even have names?
I'm not a slide climber yet, but have often seen a few that looked pretty cool to climb. When I get my last 3 peaks this summer, I'll be looking at out of the way places like that to entertain myself.

 

[Reekee]

Hysteria

If you're looking for mass hysteria I suggest the North Face of Gothics in Winter. Check your condtions very carefully as they vary widely. It is a very technical route when you choose the center line. The Trapp Dike in winter is also a classic route as you may already Know. Enjoy; it's the scary ones you most remember.

 

[Jacko]

How tricky was the Eagle in winter what gear did you take? - thats a trip that I have thought about but hadnt heard of anyone doing it and was wondering about avalanche danger. I was thinking that the Finger may be less prone to avalanche. Gothics sounds hairy in winter! Actually the acces route to the Eagle is pretty decent as slide access goes.
As for the East side Giant slides they certainly look interesting allthough I think it would be folly to attempt them without technical gear. (another one on the to do list)
Trap Dyke is a great slide to start excellent location, plenty of thrills challenging yet manageable and direct to a great summit.

Slides Rule!

 

[Reekee]

Slides Rule

The Eagle Slide was much less technical than The North Face, considering the lines we took, but conditions are everything. On the Eagle we took ice axes and crampons but we went up the left side. You can bail at anytime. When we hit the top of the slide it was a short distance to the trail. We took a much more direct line up the North Face, but conditions were great. We took full climbing gear. Ice pickets are a must for anchors as the hedge row runs out about 500 ft. from the top. Looking over at the Face from Sawteeth this winter there is now way I would have attempted it at that time. Local guide services were very helpful in getting beta on conditions.

 

[Peakbagr]

The Bottle is a GREAT slide. Good, sticky rock and plenty of nice "benches" for breaks along the way. Its steepish, but the rock is so good, its very doable. When you get to the top, follow right along the wall until an obvious break where you can climb right up a short ways to near the summit. Not a great beginning slide climb, though.

Re: the East Face. Haven't done these, but I'm told that there is a rock band that crosses the east face that takes it out of the realm of a regular slide climb.

 

[Reekee]

Bottle

Does the Bottle require climbing gear, besides shoes?

 

[Peakbagr]

No specialized equipment is needed. It is steep-enough, though, that some other previous slide climbing would be advised first.

 

[Jacko]

Now this sounds quite interesting!
Two questions however....
I understand it can be quite hard to find the Bottle - what is the key to gaining the slide from the brook?
Also does the top of the Bottle lead to some optional class 5 climbing? if so any idea how hard this may be?