L. Henderson - MacNaughton - Mt. Adams, Oct. 1-2

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ALGonquin Bob

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I wanted to share this trip that I did 2 weeks ago:

Now that public access to the Tahawus Tract has made paddling on Lake Henderson legal, I made my way to the familiar Upper Works trailhead with an additional piece of gear strapped to the roof of my car. Unlike all of my previous times here, signing the trail register would be the beginning of a short carry, instead of a long walk to Flowed Land.

Walking on the familiar stone-covered road that begins this trail, I felt a little out of place as I passed hikers with their backpacks. Over my head, I carried a big red canoe. After crossing the wooden bridge that spans the brook known as the Hudson River, I took a left turn, and in less than 10 minutes I was there. Setting down my Wenonah solo boat at the shore, I watched the water flow over the small dam where the Hudson officially begins its run to the sea.

The great weather was a continuation of the long warm summer, with clear skies and mild temperatures. For various reasons, this was the first time I’d been in my canoe this year. After one more carry to haul the remainder of my gear, I put in and pushed off. Dipping my wooden paddle into the calm water, I headed up the bay toward the unknown sights of the beautiful lake. It felt so good to be on the water again.

With great anticipation, I made my way to the main body of the lake. Turning to the north as I rounded the point, I was struck by the beauty. The many maple trees on the nearby hills and mountains were approaching their peak of fall color. Low vertical cliffs plunge into the water’s edge, especially on the eastern shores. Cedar trees form a fringe around the lake, without the pronounced browse line that deer often make as they feed from the frozen surface in winter. The abrupt shoreline allows paddling in deep water right up to the lake’s edge - perfect for a canoe. Continuing toward the north end, I was rewarded with a spectacular view of Wallface Mountain, with its 1000-foot vertical face in perfect profile. To the left is a great view of MacNaughton Mountain, the “Rodney Dangerfield” of the High Peaks. At 4000 feet, MacNaughton is higher than four of the official “46”, but is not on the list and is seldom climbed.

Originally, I had intended to loaf all day Saturday, but as I prepared for the trip, I looked at the map and saw that MacNaughton was nearby. I said to myself, “Oh crap, I’m gonna have to climb that mountain!”. Unfortunately, another thing that I do on canoe trips is sleep a lot. So after a cold night, and a restful 12 hours of high quality sleep, I crawled out of my nice warm mummy bag at 10:15A.M. Saturday, made breakfast, prepared my daypack, and hit the trail at the not-so-early hour of 11:30 A.M.

Heading up the trail toward Preston Ponds, I crossed many footbridges as the path wandered across streams and wetlands. After reaching the MacNaughton herdpath at the brook just north of Hunter Pond, I began the ascent just after 1 P.M., knowing that I might have to turn back for lack of time. The faint path is very well flagged as it follows the side of the brook through the soft hemlock trees. After about 2 hours, at about 3200 feet, I got a good look at the summit and made the decision to turn around. Previously, I have had to spend a night bivying on the trail without enough gear, so I did myself a favor to avoid that, or to miss out on the fun of descending for many hours in the dark.

After reaching the main trail, I had time to spare, so I headed to Duck Hole, a place that I had never seen. I found the trail to be very interesting as it crossed streams, gaining and losing elevation on the way. At one point, I encountered two squirrels in the heat of a chase, and running straight toward me. The first squirrel (I’ll call it “Chip”) ran up to me and scurried over my right foot, escaping into the forest. The other (“Dale”) sat on a log chattering away. I love wildlife encounters. Finally reaching Duck Hole, I looked out at the lake and enjoyed a view that I probably will not see again. Since the footbridge over the dam has been removed, I stopped there and ate my sandwich. After refilling my water bottles, I started back toward Lake Henderson at 6 O’clock, reaching camp around 9PM. I prepared my dinner of boiled noodles and a couple of Labatts Blues. Soon, I saw 3 headlamps coming toward me from the main trail, and met three travelers on their way out. One of them said, “Do I see AlG?”. I looked up and saw "Peakbagr", "Peak_bgr", and "Bushwacker". They had just climbed (bushwhacked) up Sawtooth #3 for their 98th “Hundred Highest” peak. Way to go, guys! (I think they are climbing peak #100 this weekend - Oct. 15? See info on this elsewhere on VFTT).

Sunday morning, I packed the car and drove about 30 seconds down the road to the Hanging Spear Falls trailhead. I couldn’t just drive home early; I still had to hike on such a perfect fall weekend! Mount Adams was calling me, so off I went. After filtering some water out of the Hudson, I continued on the trail that was so familiar from my hike to Allen in 2003. About a minute after passing the old caretakers cabin, the Adams trail begins. Two years ago, the trail was unmaintained, and marked with just a ribbon tied to a branch. Now, a wooden trail sign proclaims “TRAIL” with an arrow pointing to the left. I wondered why the sign didn’t say, “Mount Adams trail”, since hikers who are headed toward Flowed Land or Allen would continue straight here. I suppose that most people do the shorter hike up Adams, and those who are hiking several miles farther should know the way. Still, the sign should be labeled - the piece of paper that was taped onto the wooden sign as clarification was illegible.

So I was on my way up to Adams, its fire tower, and some great views. The trail is now maintained and marked with new red discs. As described in the books, the trail starts off level and easy as it passes through thickets of bushes. After starting uphill, the trail becomes moderate, then rocky and steep. The upper (third?) is VERY steep, and caused my old hiker’s body to pause many times for “photo opportunities”, as I like to say. Reaching the summit plateau is welcome, as always. The tower is unrestored, with much of the metal roof laying on the ground, having been weathered and blown off over the years. The stairs have been repaired, with new wood placed as needed. The lower set of steps is “blocked” with a small sign proclaiming that the tower is not open for public use. Of course, most people who climb up those steep rocks to obtain the top will ignore the sign and climb at least partway up the tower. One thing that might discourage use of the tower is that the sides of the staircase are open, without the usual fencing to provide safety and a sense of security as one climbs ever higher. With two hands tightly gripping railing and struts, I climbed the stairs. The cab is open and able to be entered, with the observer’s round table still in good condition. New boards lay atop bad planks in the cabin, and some of the windows are still intact.

The tough climb to the summit was immediately forgotten as I looked out at what I consider to be the finest view from any Adirondack fire tower. Hills, wonderful fall color, the mine with it’s buildings and smoke stack, the Hudson River, Lake Henderson, and the High Peaks from a vantage point that no other climb as short as this can offer. What a view! Indian Pass, Marshall and the rest of the MacIntyres! Avalanche Mountain, Calamity Mountain, and Mount Colden right there in front of you, with the towering summit of Mount Marcy just east of it. Absolutely spectacular! Skylight, Redfield and Cliff so close. Allen, all by itself. Cheney Cobble and its unique lumpy shape, with the adjacent North River Mountains. Amazing. All from a hike and climb of 2 hours or less. If you love the High Peaks, you’ve got to see this on a clear day!

In just over an hour, I was back at the car and on my way home. Canoeing and hiking; Adirondack “Surf and Turf”. What a great weekend. -Bob VH (ALG)
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Bob, after years of peakbagging to finish the 46 it must have seemed real nice to relax, paddle, visit, and just enjoy all of the other "things" that the great Adirondacks have to offer. It's great to be able to do those things with no real pressure to accomplish anything. On one of our trips last summer my son and I spent a lot of time at the iron furnace near where you were just exploring what we had hastily driven by so many times in the past. I really want to get my wife up Mt Adams next year. It sounds great.
 
Nice trip.

Great report. Ward and I were talking about Lake Henderson last week when we went in to Uphill Brook via Tahawus. We had a rough idea of where it should be, and this confirms it. Sounds like a great spot.
 
Hey Bob,

Nice trip report. Any information on what's available on Lake Henderson now ? I heard there was a lean-to and some legal campsites but haven't seen any DEC documentation on how many and where.

Bob
 
Hi Bob - it sounds like you had a fantastic weekend. I've yet to make it to Duck Hole, but it will be a priority next summer. Maybe paddling is the way to go. Adams sounds like a definite to-do. Funny you should mention that "trail" sign. When we climbed Allen in July, we reached the clearing after the run-down cabin and I started right over to the "trail" sign. It was the teenagers in the group who noticed a small note attached to the sign which read "Not Allen." When we arrived at Skylight Brook, we met a guy coming down Allen who had climbed all the way to the top of Adams before realizing his mistake. Bummer.

Karen
 
AlG- good trip report- That's a great area to get out and explore.

rdl- There's a beautiful new lean-to at the end of Henderson Lake just where you take out your canoe for the portage to Preston Ponds (on the hiking trail). I've done the canoe trip all the way to Duck Hole. My son and I took a 14 foot kevlar Wenonah to Duck Hole this past spring. Fabulous trip. The 1.8 mile portage over the pass to Preston isn't that bad. We have external pack frames and the canoe seats rested on the top of the pack. Away you go! The other portages are mighty annoying because it's so darn thick or steep or deep mud at the shoreline. But a great destination and the view from the water is nothing like from the shore once you get to Duck Hole.
 
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