Mount Whiteface (NH)

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Jim lombard

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Mar 18, 2004
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Washington in March
April 10th-9:30am
It was Anne's first time back on the trails since November. She asked for an "easier" one of the 7 peaks remaining and we picked Whiteface because of its south facing slopes. A beautiful drive as always along 113 winding its way through the woods to Wonalancet. Legendary frost heaves on this road by the way, but not too bad today. We were carrying full winter gear. I even had my snowshoes strapped to the pack....ah April hiking! Blueberry ledge is nice because it gives you a long flat part to warm up.

Right at the beginning the trail was icy and a bear left a big present for us (looked like he'd raided a bird feeder.) We encountered no bear but some mud on the flats (WOC has placed some nice rocks to hop on) soon were at the first uphill which leads to the lower ledge. The trail was mostly dry here, very little snow or ice as it's exposed to sunlight all day. First ledge as well was completely dry with limited views to the south. You can see a lake through the leafless trees (is it Squam?) I mentioned how tinder dry the trees looked.

We started climbing again, this time for a longer period and against a bit steeper slope. We came across a couple of blowdowns here, had to detour around one big one. Our crampons continued to ride in the packs as we reached the next flat area. There was some ice in spots here but easily avoided again by hopping from one rock to the next (this is a rocky trail!) The trail ascended the ridge again and here at about 3,700 feet we both put on crampons. I put on my 6 point instep crampons and Anne put on the 12 point full crampons.

As we headed off again a pair of ruffed grouse exploded from the brush off the trail, who needs caffeine!?! A coyote and moose had both left their calling cards right on the trail nearby. Just above this were the more "interesting" ledges. We easily navigated the first few but one posed a problem. It was in the shade enough to have a coating of ice but it was rotten with water running beneath.

I headed up first and then tried to skirt the area, Anne followed but it was a dead-end. So I took my pack off and pushed it up it on the boulder a couple of feet overhead. The rock was covered in moss, was sheer and not a good one for climbing (for me.) So I headed back to the ledge and hooked my arm around a good strong spruce. As I ventured across that section the rotten ice let go and my feet went out beneath me. It wouldn't have been much of a fall but I was just as glad not to have tumbled down that ledge.

I managed to pull my way up and then my crampons bit into some harder ice. It was pretty easy beyond that. I grabbed my pack and got that out of the way and then with the aid of a stick pulled Anne up and over the mossy boulder. From there the going was easier. Anne's 12 pointers were more of a hindrance as she "skated" over bare rock, I was able to use my bare soles in the front of my boots and "tiptoe" across. In a few minutes we were on the top ledge where we ate lunch.

Gusty winds made it an uncomfortable spot, it started to snow lightly so we headed on Rollins to make sure we bagged the main peak of Whiteface. Rollins was well packed, the typical spring granular snow (but not deep.) Back at the ledge we only paused briefly, packed up and headed off. Surprisingly the same places that had given us trouble heading up were a breeze going down. We knocked allot of ice off the rocks in our descent just butt-sliding.

Just below the first tricky spot we came across the first people we'd seen all day. They both had snowshoes but no crampons and seemed to be thinking it over (whether to head up or not.) A nice outlook near here shows the rocky summit of Chocorua. We had a pleasant hike down. Took off the crampons where it was appropriate, was glad we packed them. Saw one guy heading up with a big pack and moving with determination and then a small group who planned on stopping at the first ledge further down. A real nice day in the woods, listening to the birds, enjoying the sun. Elevation gain was around 3,000'.

I have to say this was the toughest time I'd ever had negotiating that place where the steps used to be pinned into the ledge. I did this in February two years ago and it was a breeze, I wore snowshoes right to the top.

Jim L
 
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