Solo Unsupported January Denali Attempt

[Chip]

I guess I was over estimating the width of the average crevasse. In the picture he's more towards the front of the ladder. Hopefully he hasn't under estimated the average width . I'd still like to see him wiggle his way out. I doubt he'd want to drop his skis.

 

[Craig]

Standard practice is to have leashes on your ski’s or snowshoes so you can utilize a foot prussic for self extraction (rope travel).

 

[DougPaul]

I guess I was over estimating the width of the average crevasse. In the picture he's more towards the front of the ladder. Hopefully he hasn't under estimated the average width . I'd still like to see him wiggle his way out. I doubt he'd want to drop his skis.

Some may be larger, some may be smaller. Or the ladder could be parallel to the crevasse. When you solo on a "dry" (snow covered) glacier, you take your chances...

Doug

 

[TomD]

We practiced crevasse rescue when I took a mountaineering class in NZ many years ago. Crevasses there aren't a big danger in winter, but are once the snow has melted some. If you fall in, even up to your waist with a pack on, like I did, it may take someone else to get you out. I've seen the ladder idea used somewhere else, can't remember where.

btw, while in NZ at Mt. Cook, the rangers came by looking for a lost hiker. Some of his gear was in the hut I was in. They never found him-presumably he fell in a crevasse while out on one of the glaciers by himself.

 

[Craig]

The extended forecast calls for clear skies but very cold through Wednesday of next week.
He's only at 11.5K' after 7 days as of 1/13/11. How's he going to “Git ur dun” by the end of the month?

 

[Craig]

Tonight the temps are supposed to be around -50. He said it was -raw bone cold- today. His plan is to start out early tomorrow and climb up to the base of the fixed lines on the Head Wall and see if the lines are buried or not. He plans on clearing the lines if possible and returning back down to his camp at 14,200.
...

After spending the another night at 14,200 the plan is to climb the Head Wall from 14,200 to 16,200 and then proceed along the ridge to 17,200 camp. From here on up Lonnie will be using a backpack and drag bag. He will be leaving the ladder and sled at 14,200 along with some food and fuel.

Interesting. He’s not doing multiple carries to supply his upper camps.
I hope we get a pic of this setup.

 

[Craig]

Although they didn’t say, it sounds like Lonnie did not attempt to climb the headwall with a pack and drag bag.

Today Lonnie made a carry up the Head Wall to 15,500.
….
Once past the bergschrund Lonnie ran into about 100 metere of exposed blue ice that he double ice axed up to 15,500 feet. Lonnie then tied his pack off to the fixed lines that were exposed above the bergsrhund and ice. He then attached his rope to the fixed line and rappelled down the steep section of ice. He returned to 14,200 camp and is going to get some rest.

Perhaps he’ll use his rap line to help ascend while dragging his drag bag?

It does sounds like he will attempt to climb the upper portion of the headwall with a pack and drag bag.

The plan tomorrow is to retrace his route up the Head Wall to 15,500, retrieve his gear proceed to the top of the Head Wall at 16,200 and then make his way along the West Buttress ridge to 17,200 camp.

 

[AlexTal]

I am quite shocked that the fixed lines are still visible. They must be in awful shape.

 

[AlexTal]

Apparently he's going to try to make the top of the headwall today, but not cross the ridge as winds are too high. I wouldn't want to try to get around Washburn's Thumb alone in high winds.

Here's the headwall up close:

Here's the Thumb and the ridge:

Total exposure! This is pretty exciting.

 

[Craig]

Nice.

Weather is coming in Friday.

Weather, altitude and his mental and physical stamina should start affecting his ability to move quickly upward.
After the headwall it will be interesting to see if his strategy of carrying on his back and dragging a bag works.

8 days left.

 

[AlexTal]

Nice.

Weather is coming in Friday.

Weather, altitude and his mental and physical stamina should start affecting his ability to move quickly upward.
After the headwall it will be interesting to see if his strategy of carrying on his back and dragging a bag works.

8 days left.

I didn't even think about that. Unsupported and on that ridge, carrying that load and dragging would be suicide. If I remember correctly though, the ridge only takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete, with the thumb. Given a good day, hopefully it would only take him a day to ferry everything across.

I'd like to see his plan for summit day. Once across the ridge, it will only take one solid push from high camp to summit and back. A long day though in a lot of darkness.

 

[Craig]

Mt McKinley Annual Mountaineering Summary - 2010

Use stats for the 2010 season as well as rescue and medical summaries.

 

[B the Hiker]

It all blurs together after a while, but in the last year or two Appalachia had an article on the man known as the "Japanese Caribou" who attempts either Denali or one of the other two peaks solo each winter. It's a wonderful read. He details all his gear.

He goes heavy, brings something like four tents, a spare headlamp lightbulb for every ten days, and he carries out whatever he carries in.

If someone has it at home, perhaps they can send in the issue number.

It's extremely challenging, and it takes him quite a while due to all the shuttling of gear.



Brian

 

[skiguy]

It all blurs together after a while, but in the last year or two Appalachia had an article on the man known as the "Japanese Caribou" who attempts either Denali or one of the other two peaks solo each winter. It's a wonderful read. He details all his gear.

He goes heavy, brings something like four tents, a spare headlamp lightbulb for every ten days, and he carries out whatever he carries in.

If someone has it at home, perhaps they can send in the issue number.

It's extremely challenging, and it takes him quite a while due to all the shuttling of gear.



Brian

http://www.japanesecaribou.com/home/

 

[Craig]

After 15 days on the mountain he's going for the summit today from 17.2K

He's 5 hours behind us.

I just got off the Sat phone with Lonnie about 1/2 hour ago. The weather for tomorrow looks good, Lonnie is feeling good so its a go for the summit attempt tomorrow. Lonnie is going to leave 17,200 camp at 6:00 AM tomorrow morning (January 22) and start his climb to the top of Denali. He expects to reach the summit by early afternoon and then return to 17,200.

Sunrise is at 10:04 AM.
Sunset is at 4:12 PM.

Bad Assed.
...

I agree, granted, he's been blessed with clear skies but the cold temps must be brutal.

 

[MichaelJ]

Looks like high winds and whiteout conditions in Denali Pass will delay his summit bid by a day. I hope he makes it, this has been quite the feat.

 

[Craig]

Sunday's weather forecast for the Park.
Who knows what it will be like at 20K
------------------------------------------------
Mostly Sunny
Winds out of the north at 5 mph
High Temp -19
Low Temp - 30

 

[Craig]

He didn't go today - Sunday.

Today is was pinned down by high winds again.

The low to the south is moving north and will seriously effect the wx on the mountain over the next few days. Lonnie should know there could be over 100 mile per winds lashing the mountain starting tomorrow. He will most likely have to stay where he is for a while and may need to secure his position. It looks as if that this weather system will be with us for the next few days.

I'd be wanting off that mountain right about now.

 

[MichaelJ]

This is why he went with snow caves instead of tents. I, however, would be scared of drifting burying me alive.

 

[Craig]

I'd be afraid of being flash frozen.

The anticipated high temps for the valley today were -19F.

Lets just say that it was -19F at his 17K camp. And lets just say that the winds were sustained at 50 mph.

That would be a wind chill of -60F. That's sick.