Annapurna Trek

I've decided to go trekking in Nepal next spring
After a month of looking I've finally decided on a 17 day Annapurna tea house trek which includes an ascent of Thorong La Pass, 17,769 feet.

I'm booking the trip through a tour company that provides porters. I know I can book the trip once I arrive in Katmandu for much less than the tour company wants. However, as a single woman probably traveling alone, with limited time, I would rather have everything arranged prior to my arrival.
http://www.itreknepal.com/annapurna/annapurna-circuit-short-trek.html

So far I've dropped 35 pounds and am planning to loose 15 more. I'm bicycling 75-100 miles a week and trying to hike one day a week when it's not raining. From what I've read it's not a real strenuous hike, except for the day across Thorong La Pass. I'll be spending 6 days above 10,000 feet prior to crossing the Pass, so hopefully that will be enough time to acclimatize.

I have a choice of either going in the spring or the fall. I'm leaning more towards spring, late March or April.

Any suggestions on when to go, how to prepare, what to bring would be appreciated. I'm not sure if I need crampons for the high pass, but was planning on bringing them just in case. What about electricity and recharging camera batteries?

Any thoughts welcome...

Nadine

Hi Nadine;

No crampons needed. Its extremely dry above Manang.

I've trekked twice in the Annapurna Region -- to Annapurna Sanctuary in March and Around Annapurna -- the circuit, in early November. November definatley is better conditions, post monsoon and dry. There was much avalanche risk in March, and in fact, two persons from an film crew for an Annapurna attempt were killed in an avalanche when I was there.

The first trip to Nepal I went alone and hired a guide and porter in Kathmandu. While this worked out, my guide was inexperienced as a guide, but a good travel agent, negotiator and translator. The second trip we used him but had him act as liason to coordinate for us with a certified guide company. This worked out much better. There were three of us on that trip. We still saved alot of money over hiring a company from the US or Europe. I can't believe what REI charges for thier arranged treks. One month in Nepal trekking the entire Annapurna Circuit, including all accomodation in Kathmandu , Besishahar, and Pokhara plus porters, guide, teahouse meals and overnights, permits, overland travel, pocket money, etc, cost me about $650 US, airfair approx $1300.

LonelyPlanet.com is a good resource for trip planning. My best advice is to not rely on your guide/guide company for everything. Get guide books, phrase books, and all the info you'll need as if you are travelling solo. Also be aware that road conditions, electricity, banks, etc in Nepal are subject to change without notice...prepare for some delays due to road washouts, bank closures, festivals (of which the Hindu have many), trail sideshakedowns for money for just about everything from a school to a hospital to an orphanage--keep small denomination rupees on you for those times. Nepalese are very polite in thier bribery, though, you can count on a handwritten reciept!!

Feel free to pm me with any questions. Oh, and I think the Thorong La Pass is more like 18,900 -- We went counterclockwise and crossed the Pass, and completed the entire circuit. The four to five days from Jomsom to Pokhara are a beautiful trek as well, often called the Royal Trek, because Prince Charles did that section. If you can spend more time, like 26 days, you can do the entire circuit plus Sanctuary. Annapurna Sanctuary is gorgeous and this section was my favorite part of Nepal. All of the hiking is easy, the increasing altitude is the main reason for stopping each day, which also sets aside a large portion of each day for cultural experiences.

Thorong La is just shy of 17,800'.

I did the circuit without porters, it's not very difficult. Every town has plenty of guest houses and as long as you're not in a large group it is very easy to get a nice place for the night without guides. You may wish to have a guide to ease things along but you won't find things very difficult either way.

My trip report is here. I'm also free to answer questions.

It has been 30 years since I trekked in the Annapurna range so my details about the tea houses, transportation and how to get around Kathmandu are quite dated. I can however provide some opinions on when to go and some of the highlights of the scenery. We went with Mountain Travel at the time because there were very few independent trekking agencies over there and even harder to communicate with them since it was pre-internet times.

The map accompanying your itinerary has Thorung La at 17,769 ft which is close to all the estimates of 17,800 that I have seen. Your itinerary gives you adequate days to acclimatize prior to going over the pass so you should not have any problems there. On your rest day in Manang you might want to do a short hike above the village to help acclimatize by the “climb high, sleep low” theory. I found Braga (Bryaga in your itinerary) to be an idyllic village. We had a rest day here and I spent it walking around the village and high above the village where the yaks grazed photographing the mountains across the valley. When I went around Annapurna in October of ‘78 we went over from west to east and I did the entire circuit in sneakers except for the day of the pass when I wore light boots, mainly to keep my feet warmer. We had heard stories about the pass having several feet of snow in October but it appears that is more rare than standard.

Going in the autumn means potentially cooler days and nights as the trek commences but the spring could increase the chances of snow on the pass. Spring also has a higher chance of seeing flowering trees in bloom.

Your itinerary cuts off the part of the trek below Jomosom which I found to be a windy, dirty little town. However many of the towns south of Jomosom were gorgeous (particularly Marpha and Naudanda) and the views of the Annapurna range were spectacular from this section of the trek. Going through the Kali Gandaki Gorge between Annapurna and Dhalagiri was spectacular as part of the trail is cut into the mountainside like an open air tunnel.

We hired a Sherpa and 5 porters for our 2 week trek into the Annapurna Sanctuary while we were in Kathmandu prior to our Annapurna Circuit trek. We had come into Nepal after our K2 Base Camp trek and had plenty of extra time on our hands. We had also picked up some advice from our trek leaders in Pakistan on who to see. There were few tea houses in there then as this was not a popular destination at the time. There were no tea houses beyond Chumro and no permanent buildings in the Sanctuary when we were there.

PM me if you want and I can answer any of your questions, though my experience is more dated than others.

JohnL

Nadine said:

I've decided to go trekking in Nepal next spring
...
However, as a single woman probably traveling alone, with limited time,
...
Any thoughts welcome...

Nadine

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What, no dog?

We spent a few rest days during our trek, enjoying towns we really liked. The one that sticks in my mind is Kagbeni which was the most other-worldly place on the whole trip. Jomsom is kind of a dirty big town with an airport, Marpha was certainly more interesting. We also spent an extra day at Manang.

In Pisang go to visit the upper village which is older and much prettier. On the day of the pass we headed out at first light, rather then start climbing in the dark. We had no problem making it over the pass and down to Muktinath in time.

I was there last year in late October, and think the fall is the best time of year to go weather-wise. As for a guide or porter...I was considering going on my own, but my thinking was similar to yours and in the end I signed on to a small group trip that offered both. My "group" ended up consisting of just one other hiker, but we were both glad we had the support team. That said, we were also glad that we didn't end up in one of the large tour groups that take over the tea houses. I agree with una_dogger...the difference between what you pay doing it on your own and what the outfitters want to charge is outrageous. I shopped around and found a good deal with this company www.kumuka.com.

I learned a few things on my trip that led me to conclude that having a guide and/or porter is a good thing (particularly if they work for a "real" company that wants a good reputation with travelers). If you're still on the fence, I'd be happy to share the details with you. Of course, there are risks everywhere, and I know plenty of people (even women traveling alone) who have traveled around Nepal with no trouble.

As for planning, there's not much you need to do. Agree with everything Sabrina said. I would strongly recommend using a travel agent to assist with your flights. It can save you money, and they have access to lots of flights and combinations that you can't find on the internet. I would be happy to give you the number of the agent I used who specializes with travel to India and Nepal. Try to avoid Royal Nepal Airlines (any online booking tool will lead to them).

Even though they aren't required for the area you're visiting, it's not a bad idea to make sure you have all the recommended vaccinations. You should also bring your own small passport photos for the visa - will save you time and trouble when you arrive in KTM. I bought a cheap adaptor in Nepal and was able to use it to charge my camera batteries. If you go in the fall, you'll want a warm sleeping bag. If you have specific questions, send me a PM and I'll try to help.

Rebecca

Juniper said:

Try to avoid Royal Nepal Airlines (any online booking tool will lead to them).

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Avoid Royal Nepal at all costs. We didn't and we were sorry.

I think it is better in october. We did the Everest base camp trek last october and we had a wonderfull trip and the weather was gorgeous.

Excellent point on the vaccinations....you have plenty of time between now and your trip to space them out. Also get a script of Diamox from your Dr -- even if you don't use it, someone else may need it (we encountered a very sick person at Annapurna Base Camp who needed Diamox.

I flew Thai Air out of Bangkok each time, first rate airline and very nice airport -- very clean at the time (2001 March and November). I was able to make a two flight jump both times from NY; once transfering in Kyoto (great airport) and the other in Seoul (so so).

Plan to spend a day in Kathmadu at the permit office, banks, and a little sight seeing and last minute gear purchases in Thamel, and a visit to the Monkey Temple.

On the circuit, I really enjoyed Chame -- beautiful stone walks, suspension bridge, cooler temps -- bank, phone, many traders. We purchased a loaf of break, a pound of Yak cheese, and some tomatoes and had a feast! Yum! (get the vaccinations!) On the other side of the pass, Gorepani's Poon Hill is a must -- take the one hour side trip up to see the sun rise over the Himalaya.

Some things to definatley have : baby wipes, flip flops for the intermittent shower you'll take, first aid (for yourself or for handing out bandaids to the many who will ask you for medical supplies).

Can't wait for your pics!

I walked through Nepal in November/December 2006. You definitely need passport photos for the visa at Tribhuvan Airport. I wished I had Diamox (acetazolamide), but I didn't bring it along because I thought it a crutch. You can buy it cheap and without a prescription in Kathmandu. Try collecting small bills when in Kathmandu. Need wet wipes, hand sanitizer, and toilet paper. When at high altitude, don't forget to apply sunscreen even when it's cold out and your skin is icky/dirty.

I'd recommend bringing your favorite candy or snacks, since the teahouses all serve nearly identical and boring food. Most meals were okay, but I worked my way through the menu and gradually got sick of everything and really couldn't stomach much. When you're nauseous at altitude, having some appetizing food from home helps. Bring games or a book of short stories to occupy your afternoons when you can't go further because you already ascended 1000 feet that day.

The Maoist rebels collected a small bribe/tax and issued a preprinted receipt with their flag on it! Nice collectors item.

I flew Air India via Delhi. It was cheap, but the people at the check-in counter in the USA refused for 15 minutes to issue me a boarding pass because they insisted I needed a visa to fly to India. "But I'm going to Kathmandu, Nepal!," I insisted. "Nepal is part of India," they replied. They weren't going to take any geography lesson from me, but luckily some supervisor's supervisor knew where Kathmandu was. So to set the record straight, you *may* fly via India without an Indian visa as long as you arrive and depart the *same terminal* at Delhi airport. But if you switch terminals, you need a visa to clear immigration (and that visa must be gotten before you leave the USA).

As far as training is concerned, the limiting factor in Nepal isn't physical strength, but altitude, so I wouldn't make training my priority.

My experience there was mired by sickness. I had everything! Massive headaches, insomnia, and nausea (which analgesics, sedatives, and anti-emetics did not aid). Nosebleeds, occasional dizziness and shortness of breath. Over one month of gastrointestinal problems.
You'll have a great time!

Caveman77 said:

Over one month of gastrointestinal problems.
You'll have a great time!

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LOL! I suffered amoebic dysentary on the trail as well as returning home with a pet Giardia...yeah! It was one of the best experiences of my life!

Thanks for all of your input

A couple of things:
1. Do to work constraints I will need to go in the spring. So I'm thinking late April or early May to avoid the avalanche/ snow danger of crossing the pass.

2. I would love to do the full 23day trek, but I don't have enough days off to make it work.

3. Airfare has gone up considerably. It's looking like about 2000-2200 for the round trip. I will avoid Royal Nepal airlines.
Juniper, I'll take that number for the travel agent that you used, thanks!

4. OK, lets talk boots. What did you bring? I have a pair of Limmers, but they are heavy. I've been told by a couple of people to reduce muscle fatigue at higher altitude go with lighter boots. So would a lightweight pair of over-the-ankle trekKing boots be OK? Do I need Koflachs for spring hiking over the Pass? All the pix I've seen show lots of snow at that elevation. Maybe have the porter carry the koflachs until I need them? Carrying light trekkers, limmers and koflachs seems a bit much...

5. Do I need the expedition weight down coat? I'm thinking more lighter weight down. I am going to be above 10,000 feet for 6 days though.

6. Bank machines. Did your cards work OK? Should I just take out what I need for the trip in Katmandu and carry some money in my pocket for the charitable donations and stash the rest in my pack? Or get more money as I go along?

7. Juniper, did you have to convert the electricity from 220 to 110 with a converter? How many places along the way had electricity?

8. I'm bringing extra passport photos

9. I'm getting every vaccination known to man.

10. I'll have a well stocked first aid kit with everything from Diamox to antiobiotics.

11. I'm writing down all the names of the towns and sights you have suggested in a journal. I hope to stop at them all

12. Clothing. I'm figuring a lightweight and heavy weight layer of polypro with some added fleece, top and bottom, for insulation. Rain gear. Zip off pants and an extra pair of shorts. Bathing suit for the hot springs.

13. Did you bring many souvenirs back home? I'm thinking of leaving an extra suitcase at the trekking company and using it bring back whatever I find along the way.

14. What did you carry in your day packs? What did the porter carry for you? Do you trust the porter with valuables?

Thanks so much for all your input

I had pretty minimal gear when I went to Nepal. I wore La Sportiva Makalu's the whole trek. In March, at Annapurna Base Camp, I spent two cold nights in a 25 degree bag. Could have used a warmer bag for those two nights -- on the Circuit, I was fine in a 25 degree bag. There was no snow at any altitude in November -- the monsoons wash it all away. Sun at high altitudes meant wearing tshirts at all altitudes during daytime. Light down sweater for night time at teahouses in Chame through to Tatopani, in general, over 3000 m.

Also, bear in mind these routes are trade routes used by yak and mule trains and many people. The trail is a well worn highway. I think Koflach's would be total overkill.

There's another line of thinking as well that is aligned with cultural sensitivity -- not overdoing it in the gear department and travelling a little more minimalistically can enhance the cultural experience as it bridges the perception that you are a wealthy traveller. Some of my most memorable experiences in Nepal took place around a small table, working through the Nepalese phrasebook, playing native "board games" in small straw houses, eating dinner with locals in thier houses -- keeping a lower profile on the economic scale *I think* gets you closer to the people, if that's an interest for you. But then, in Nepal, almost everyone is walking, so that narrows the playing field considerably.

Must haves:
a good pair of polarized sunglasses
sunscreen

For 23 days trekking, I had a lightweight down, lightweight fleece, fleece pants, couple of tee shirts, a synthetic long sleeve pullover, synthetic short sleeve, tevas, La Sportiva's, baseball hat, underwear, glove liners, fleece mittens, winter hat, polarized sunglasses, headlamp, sleeping bag, tons of baby wipes and toilet paper, iodine tabs, two nalgenes, film camera, extra batteries, first aid. My porter carried everything in a ~3000 cu pack (mine). I carried my camera, water , money, batteries, longsleeve, etc in a small day pack.

Its a very good idea to find out ahead of time the approximate size of your porter -- so you'll know the pack he's carrying for you will fit him if its your own pack. One of my travelling companions was a big guy, and his porter was dwarfed by his pack. We felt terrible and bought a pack in KTM for his porter to wear.

You can do the circuit in sneakers if you want. Light hiking boots are fine for the trip. The locals are either in bare feet of flip flips for most of the route. No idea if there is considerable snow on the pass in Spring, but in fall there was just a trace on the ground.

I agree that expedition weight down is overkill. I was fine with fleece and a shell but I tend to not need lots of layers. When I did the circuit the only banks were in Manang and Jomsom, no ATMs along the route, but it's almost impossible to spend much money on the circuit. Getting some money in Kathmandu should last you the journey. I'd avoid buying much stuff until the end of the journey, you can pretty much buy everything in Kathmandu that you can get along the way.

I carried my own pack, so my belongings were always with me. I carried a 30 degree bag, polypro tops and bottoms, a vest, fleece jacket, rain pants, rain jacket, camera, small F/A kit, sunglasses, baseball cap, extra socks, 3 t-shirts and that's about it. The whole thing fit in my large daypack. I carried 1 liter of water with me at all times, but no more. You're never far from a tea house where you can get boiled water or iodine it. I never drank bottled water, it's a blight on the landscape and no safer.

6. Bank machines.

My ATM card worked in most machines. Be sure to check the back of your card for symbols (mine has NYCE, Cirrus, and STAR), then check the machine for the same symbols. If any match, it should work. If your card doesn't work the first time, don't try a second time! Switch to a different machine. I think you get three chances before the machine eats the card (happened to me in Luxembourg, international banking capital). Also, my maximum daily withdrawal amount is $500 in the USA, but only 15.000 NPR ($221) in Nepal, so I had to go three times on three different days to get 45.000 NPR. (Having several ATM cards would avoid this problem.) Also, in case ATM cards do fail, bring credit cards and take cash advances. The interest rate is high, but it's an option in an urgent situation (make sure you know your PIN!). In my experience, outside Kathmandu it's a cash-only society.

Since I went during a different season than you, I can't help with the clothing questions, except to say that the only souvenirs I brought back were new trekking pants, new polar fleece jacket, and gastrointestinal illness.

One last thing.... I was sick in Nepal (headaches so bad, in fact, I never finished the Annapurna circuit!), but the thing which helped me the most was drinking lots of fluids, hot chocolate specifically. It's inconveniunt to get up three times in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom, but your body needs more fluid at higher elevations. (Especially if you're on acetazolamide prophylaxis.)

Una_dogger wrote of "amoebic dysentary on the trail as well as returning home with a pet Giardia." Yeah, I think I had both of those. Two courses of metronidazole, one of doxycycline, together with lactobacillus did NOT help. Took several months before I was totally in the clear.
I can't wait to go back!

After hearing the woes of dysentery I'm wondering what I can do to prevent myself from getting ill.

How do you drink a lot of water to stay hydrated and prevent acute mountain sickness without getting dysentery?

What did all of you folks do?
What didn't you do that you wish you had?

Is a filter enough? Boiling? Chemically treat with Aqua tabs or bleach?

I treated my water with iodine and/or boiled it.

I wish I had boiled and/or treated more of my water.

JohnL

I got pneumonia, but not dysentery. Just make sure all the water you drink is boiled or treated. Stay away from bottled water - it's no guaranty of safety.

David Metsky said:

Stay away from bottled water - it's no guaranty of safety.

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Don't forget that even if the contents of a bottle are safe, the outside may not be. I have read of cases where someone cooled bottled drinks in a stream and suffered the consequences...

Also ice is dangerous--you can't treat it without melting it first and you can't guarantee that it was made with treated/boiled water.

Doug