Mt Washington via Lion Head, 2/1/14

Well finally, a good weekend day for going up the Rockpile! As has been reported by prior posters, it was a little "scratchy," with a rope still fixed in the steepest spot, due to thin ice. And on ascent, we encountered quite a queue waiting to go up the rope.

Here are a few shots from our day. Nine of us set out from Pinkham; seven summited and two turned back.

























A spectacular day to be out, and another successful installment on our annual Radeke hiking trip!

Beautiful pics! Thanks, Blaze.

Awesome pics! I love the glazed ice over the ravine! Thanks for sharing.

Karl

Yeah... managed to blow away my original 14 photos in the process of adding the rest of the photos.

Anyway, here is the full gallery. Thanks for the kind comments.

Its been quite some time since Ive done the winter route, why is there a fixed rope? I remember using crampons and an ice axe and having to actually climb the route, but a fixed rope? I don't see the need.

sierra said:

Its been quite some time since Ive done the winter route, why is there a fixed rope? I remember using crampons and an ice axe and having to actually climb the route, but a fixed rope? I don't see the need.

Click to expand...

If there is not enough snow and/or ice filling in the steepest section it would be virtually impossible for most people to get through some of the crux steep sections down low on the LHWR, as was the case this weekend (8-9/February). Even with technical mixed climbing skills -- i.e., ice tools and crampons on bare rock -- there would've been a 15'-18' section of some pretty spicy climbing. Other times I've done the Winter Route, there has been plenty of snowpack and it's relatively straightforward to kick steps and use a mountaineering axe for a self-belay.

Despite the fixed rope, a lot of folks still found this section difficult and took a long time to get through it.

sierra said:

Its been quite some time since Ive done the winter route, why is there a fixed rope? I remember using crampons and an ice axe and having to actually climb the route, but a fixed rope? I don't see the need.

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The winter route has been changed a number of times, so unless one has done it recently it may have changed. (I personally haven't done it in number of years.)

I suspect that part of the problem is people trying to climb it with inadequate equipment (eg microspikes) and inadequate skills. The route can become technical under some conditions...

Doug

DougPaul said:

The winter route has been changed a number of times, so unless one has done it recently it may have changed. (I personally haven't done it in number of years.)

I suspect that part of the problem is people trying to climb it with inadequate equipment (eg microspikes) and inadequate skills. The route can become technical under some conditions...

Doug

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That exact thought was in my mind when I asked the question. Why make it easier?, either you can climb it or you cannot. I remember using one axe and grabbing alot of branches and roots as well, but it was a great route. This route is a great example of where people who just use Micro-spikes shouldnt be, you def. need front points on this route. Anyway, I just thought it was wierd, imo, there should be no fixed rope on that route, but Im not willing to fight for it either way, whatever.

sierra said:

That exact thought was in my mind when I asked the question. Why make it easier?, either you can climb it or you cannot. I remember using one axe and grabbing alot of branches and roots as well, but it was a great route. This route is a great example of where people who just use Micro-spikes shouldnt be, you def. need front points on this route. Anyway, I just thought it was wierd, imo, there should be no fixed rope on that route, but Im not willing to fight for it either way, whatever.

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Hello?

The presence of that rope has nothing to do with people wearing microspikes, or lacking other gear or experience.

It is there because there is no ice to sink those front points into. Not in that particular spot. It is steep, and is (or was) predominantly bare rock.

One alternative (and it has been exercised in past winters) is to close the winter route. Personally, and I think many hikers would agree, I am very happy to use the rope and still go up the winter route.

Even if you have done this route before, please try to remember that conditions right now may be completely different than the conditions that you encountered.

Thank you.

blaze said:

Hello?

The presence of that rope has nothing to do with people wearing microspikes, or lacking other gear or experience.

It is there because there is no ice to sink those front points into. Not in that particular spot. It is steep, and is (or was) predominantly bare rock.

One alternative (and it has been exercised in past winters) is to close the winter route. Personally, and I think many hikers would agree, I am very happy to use the rope and still go up the winter route.

Even if you have done this route before, please try to remember that conditions right now may be completely different than the conditions that you encountered.

Thank you.

Click to expand...

I only suggested the micro-spike issue because there are many that only use them now. Yes, I have done the route many times, but it has been awhile. Like I said, Im not a fan of using a fixed rope there no matter what, I say leave the route open and if people can climb fine, if not fine also. I also said Im not that into the whole issue anyway, I was just stating my opinion if thats ok.. Thank You Back.