Baxter XC Traverse?

[Tramper Al]

Hey,

This morning, I was sitting in my armchair, reading a couple of sections in Dave Goodman's book on BC XC ski trips in NH/ME. I had heard vaguely of a BSP ski traverse before, but had somehow imagined it pretty much stuck to the tote road.

The traverse he described goes from Dudley Matagamon Wilderness Campground into the park at the north gate, then on to bunkhouses at Trout Brook, South Branch, Russell Pond, Roaring Brook, and out by Abol Bridge. I wonder if any of you VFTTers have tried this, as it sounds like it could be an incredible trip. It sounds like it could be in some ways even more challenging than the typical trip in to North Brother or Chimney Pond / Katahdin.

I am planning to hike from Katahdin to the north gate at some point as the beginning of my IAT in ME journey. Maybe I will take this low route to scout out a future ski traverse, though I think would miss some nice peaks by doing so.

 

[spencer]

I've been trying to get it together for a while to do a traverse.

We were in the planning stages of one last year with GO but we ran out of time, coordination or something else.

So, it still remains on my agenda. I think it would be a most-rewarding 4-5 days!

spencer

 

[g o]

this winter for sure spencer!

klondike anyone?

 

[spencer]

okay, we just need to commit and do it.

I think we decided late in the season is the best time, right?

The stream crossing could be challenging.

any thoughts?

El-bagr has also expressed interest in a trip to the Klondike.

spencer

 

[ChrisB]

I am really interested in this tript to, and have laid out the logistics for it a few times.

The haul from South Branch to Russell would be a long day and require very good condx. However, there is a leanto about half way between (Pogy Notch?) that might provide a night out.

Also, I had planned a first night a South Branch Pond rather than Trout Brook, since most of the bit from Matagamon gate is on the tote road which (I assume) is usually broken out by snow machine.

Snow condx seems critical to the success of this jaunt, and I wonder if snowshoes rather than skis might be better for the off-tote road stuff.

Did you plan to hauld sleds?

In any case, I'd be interested in talking more about this cool trip with you all.

 

[spencer]

I think sleds are the way to go, especially if a Katahdin summit day is planned b/c of the extra gear we'll have.

The entire way to South Branch Pond is road (tote road and then the side road that leads to the campground proper).

Mileage:

Matagamon gate to South Branch - 9.5 (plus a couple of miles from wherever they stop plowing. I'm told they don't plow all the way to the gate in winter.)

South Branch to Russell Pond - 9.6

Russell Pond to Chimney Pond via Roaring Brook - 10.4 (with a Wassatoquoik crossing)

I've talked to a couple of people that have done it and say skis are fine for the whole way, including Pogy Notch Trail (and they are much faster).

Just how bad is the Wassataquoik crossing in winter? Twigeater? Nadine?

spencer

 

[twigeater]

Never done it, but would like to sometime. A bunch of us talked about it last year, but once most realized it would take a week, no plans were made. I read an article in the paper about a group who did it. The only thing about dragging sleds is that the trail isn't always broken out.

A ranger recommended it as a great trip, he also recommended a layover day at Russell to play.

There is now a half log bridge over the Wassataqoik on the Russell Pond trail...if it makes it thru each winter, that might be the route to take.

It is about 12 miles from the parking lot at Matagamon to South Branch. Once past Trout Brook, it's easier going (not as hilly).
I understand the rangers keep a snowmobile trail broken across the ponds to the Pogy Notch trail.

If you're looking for a starting/ending place to stay a night, the paper company has nice cabins for rent. The Sunday Pond cabin is beyond the South gate, a short ski in, and Compass Pond is off the Golden Road before Abol bridge. Nice places to stay - no running water, but gas heat and lights.

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

I have friends in Orono who have made this classic x-c ski traverse many times over the past couple of decades, but I have never been free to join them. But, perhaps this will be THE YEAR. Reservations for Russell Pond and Roaring Brook need to be made well in advance, of course. Mainers get first crack, I believe on December 1st?

 

[twigeater]

November 1st for winter reservations.

 

[spencer]

If people are serious about putting a team together, I'm happy to cruise up to headquarters on the 1st and put in for us. I did it last year and had no problems beating the crowds.

spencer

 

[ChrisB]

Plans and Plots

All,

The Tracey Horse trail might be the best route from Russell to RB.

A little bit (0.5m) longer, but flat and wide most all the way.

Spencer, you mentioned a summit day. Would you overnight at Chimney or do a day trip from RB?

cb

 

[twigeater]

you mean there are crowds on opening day for winter reservations as well?

I didn't know that...

I like the Tracy Horse trail better, but I wonder how the stream crossing is in winter.

 

[spencer]

I'm mostly thinking out loud here.

I see a night at each of the following

Day 1: M. Gate to S. Branch
Day 2: S. Branch to Russell Pond
Day 3: RP to RB
Day 4: RP to CP and rest day
Day 5: Summit and down to RB
Day 6: ski out to Abol.

Of course we could take out the summit day (we've probably all been up there in winter and if we needed to shorten it, we could by 2 days.)

Alternatively, we could push from RP to Chimney Pond in one day.

thoughts?

GO, what had we talked about last year?

spencer

p.s. Twigeater, I got to HQ around 7am last year and there were about 6 people ahead of me and not long after, the line got pretty long. Most of the people seemed to be trying for busy weekend and NYE for Chimney.

 

[ChrisB]

I can't imagine South Branch or Russell being as hard to book as Chimney...especially if a ME resident is doing it.

Just a thought -- a second night at South Branch might provide an opportunity to try the Travelers.

Or a second night at Russell could be fun.. deep in the heart of the park.

Spencer you're right, I've done the winter Chimney Pond thing several times and would enjoy exploring other areas of the park, especially in the northern reaches.

Hey, have you ever skied with a sled on a real trail, rather than on the Tote Road? (When I've been up to Chimney the trail has always been fully broken out by snow machine.) Pogey Notch Tr might be a bit less cush...

cb

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

If going with sleds, probably later in the winter is better for a more solid snowpack, for example early March, before streams begin to open up. Please count me in, if this trip comes together for some time in early March.

 

[Blue]

I have never been north of Russell, sounds like a fun trip!

Last winter we skied across a series of ponds on our way out of the park from Kidney Pond (see attached), which was a beautiful way to see that section of the park. The trails connecting the ponds were a little twisty and narrow and I would build up some speed, try to take a turn and crash (over and over again). I've got to work on those turns this winter!

 

[twigeater]

Blue, northern Baxter is beautiful year round...and far less travelled than the area around Katahdin.

Each year I try to get two 4-9 day backpacking trips in BSP...one to the center park (Russell area) and the other to the northern wilderness. Last year I stayed at the new lean-to on Frost Pond, and it was beautiful! My favorite places are the "one lean-to on a pond with a canoe." A connector trail was finished this year so a nice loop can be made, I can't wait to do the trip next year.

I've also visited that area the last three or four winters, and again, solitude, beauty...

 

[kurcam]

please excuse the interruption here, but some folks from another forum and myself have been trying to put together a backcountry ski trip to katahdin. i will enclose the link for those interested.

my question, since i am unfamiliar with the area; is this at all a technical undertaking? we do plan to hit some of the cirque routes mentioned in goodman's backcountry skiing book, and are comfortable with the skiing. the true question for us is what are we getting into by being in the park, approach, etc.

i am comfortable at something like tucks or doing multi day multi mileage trips in the adirondaks. is this comparable or something more involved?

thanks for any info.

http://timefortuckerman.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2801

 

[spencer]

If you are going to Chimney Pond, staying in the bunkhouse and skiing the chutes from there, it can be a relatively cushy trip.

We are talking about several days from the northern end of the park to the southern end. The skiing is not technical by any imagination, but pulling a sled along unbroken trails can pose some challenge. Also, sleeping out in lean-tos is requires a bit more attention to detail for staying warm, etc.

The skiing we are talking about is nothing like the skiing you are talking about The chutes are steep, fast, and have very variable conditions. I haven't skied them though and I'm not sure how well I'd do on them, frankly...

To access the chutes, you should be comfortable with an ice axe and crampons to get to the top. Conditions might be such that it's a walk in the park with snowshoes, but you never know what you'll find until you get there. Here are some pictures of the Great Basin Gullies. If you go up a level from that link, you'll find some pictures of the route up the Saddle Trail to get to the top. There are many more technical routes to the top. I have a few more pictures of the chutes if you walk a closer look.

Both trips will be fun, though!

spencer

 

[spencer]

After reading your thread at T4T, it sounds like you guys need some good winter camping experience first. It gets cold there. Regular chores are a lot more difficult when it's -20.

Also, I know Acadia Mountain Guides and have been on the 2-day summit trip that was mentioned on T4T. It's striclty a climbing trip up Abol Slide (southern side of the mountain) and involves no downhill skiing. The skiing you want has to be accessed from Chimney Pond which means a minimum of 4 days (2 to get to CP, one to ski, 1 to ski out of the park).

However, Jon Tierney (owner of AMG) is a hardcore ski mountaineer and will certainly arrange a trip to your liking for you. Give him a call, even if you don't want to hire him or his guides, he'll give you all the info you need.

spencer