Camp USA XLA 210 Lightweight Ax

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I don't know anything about this axe in particular BUT I started out with a VERY lightweight axe and I found it difficult to get it firmly planted into the slope without a lot of effort. So given my smaller frame and lower upper body strength I switched to a heavier axe and haven't had the same problems since. I used the heavier axe on Lion's Head a few days ago and I had an easier time getting it to "bite" into the ice and snow. Just MHO, for what it is worth . . .

sli74
 
Go with the Pamir

I really like the feel of this ax, light but not too light. It's probably only 6-7 oz. heavier than the aluminum racing axes.
I've also tried the REI Mountain ax (Abe's) and even bought a new BD, but always come back to the Pamir. EMS sells the same ax with their label on it for cheap.
 
There are light axes and then there are light axes.

The INEXPENSIVE, light axes do require more work.
The MORE EXPENSIVE light ones usually have better alloys and all 3 working parts will be sharper, more well engineered and ergonomic.

Cheaper and lightweight = more work

Better designed and lightweight = less weight and less work but more money.

Its simplistic to generalize that all lightweight axes require more work.
Bear in mind that extra 6 to 8 ozs carried all day, swung all day, chopping all day adds up to a LOT more effort.
If all you are going to use if for is a portable handrail as most NE hikers do, with the possibility of self-arrest, then inexpensive and light will certainly do the trick.

PB
 
Thanks for the info :)

I think I'll invest in the Pamir as my first ax purchase (seems like more of a "sure thing").

^MtnMike^
 
The MORE EXPENSIVE light ones usually have better alloys and all 3 working parts will be sharper, more well engineered and ergonomic.
I have to respectfully disagree on the more expensive tools being sharper-
maybe when new, but after some abuse they all get dull.
The sharpness can easily be adjusted to individual tastes.
I don't think price has anything to do with it.
 
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