Galehead Bonds Traverse and reflections on the State of the Forest

vftt.org

Help Support vftt.org:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jazzbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2005
Messages
1,197
Reaction score
163
Location
Waltham, MA Jazzbo & Marty meet Bigfoot on Kenne
8/28 to 9/1/06 Lincoln Woods Trail, Franconia Brook Trail, Twin Brook Trail, Twinway, Bond Cliff Trail, Wilderness Trail, Lincoln Woods, 3-day tramp, 30.1 miles RT, Elevation Gain????

Try to keep this brief, but how does one abbreviate 30 mile 3-day tramp that rates as one's personal best trip for hiking year? I did a 3-day tramp similar to this over 20 years ago. I’m working on 4K list and could only speculate as to what summits I visited then so I wanted to do this loop to re-bag certain peaks with greater certainty and just because it’s so darn nice. Lady luck favored me with near perfect conditions for such an outing. This was a solo outing, but never lacked for companionship.

Day-1 consisted of an uneventful but pleasant tramp up Franconia Brook to 13 Falls and up to Galehead Hut taking care to note Hellgate, RedRock, Twin Brooks along the way. I encountered number of college age groups out for a lark, even taking a picture of one group at 13 Falls. Midweek trail traffic was light, just enough to make it nice to see people, but not so much as make it depressing. On the ridgeline I doffed my pack and jogged up to visit Galehead. After 11 miles with full pack I felt like I might float to the top.

I wandered in the spruce in hopes of getting a view to south and west that I knew Galehead could offer if only given the chance. I encountered something that puzzled me. I came across a string running through the scrub and followed it for a ways as it was heading in the direction I was heading. I abandoned the effort when it passed through thick blow down patch. Being late in the day and didn’t want to get lost in scrub at such a late hour without my compass. I think I was heading towards an area that might have presented one with the desired views to the south and west. When queried the hut people had no idea what this might have been.

Spent an enjoyable night at the hut where we were treated to turkey dinner, although we joked it might have been Spruce Grouse. Winds kicked up to 40-50 mph during the evening and moderated somewhat by morning bringing scenic billowy white clouds animating the landscape. After a hearty breakfast I started up South Twin amid extremely clear air and billowing snowy white clouds. Parties ahead of me had gone on probably on account of the winds, but I layered up and lingered on South Twin to watch the show. It puzzles me how the majority of hikers work so hard to get to a summit and if it’s least bit windy they want go back down after 2 minutes to get out of the wind. I don’t understand that at all. I don't care to hike with folks like that.

I headed towards Guyot Camp taking side trip to Zealand another summit in need of a view ledge. I’m sure Zealand has some viewing ledges that would offer interesting prospects north and west that would enhance to map-reading hiker’s understanding of the terrain. I ventured through the scrub a bit, but had to leave to this to another day. I ventured back to Guyot summit arriving at Guyot Camp around 4:00. Being midweek I had my pick of tent sites. One lucky fellow had Guyot shelter all to himself. There were a number of unoccupied platforms, but I opted to share a platform with a fellow who generously invited me to share his platform. He turns out to be VFTT member Hillwalker (Tom) who I really enjoyed meeting with whom I shared an interest in trailwork. I truly hope he follows up on his intention to attend upcoming AMC trail work weekend weekend Sept 9 at Cardigan Lodge. This is great opportunity to meet NH Chapter Trail Crew and get introduced to principals and practice of trail work. Carl who I’d met at Galehead Hut had a neighboring site and contributed to a congenial evening of good conversation.

Next morning I bid goodbye to Hillwalker and Carl and started off at 9:30 to hike the Bonds and head back to Lincoln Woods. Weather continued to be favorable, but high clouds were moving in muting the early fall colors, but views were still easily 100 miles. I had the time so I again lingered on West Bond, Bond, and Bond Cliffs. Most of my hiking has been in eastern Whites so Bonds were special on account I could see all the summits I’ve hiked over the last few years each one symbolizing some particular day or time. Views were very fine. In contraast to the previous day the air was dead calm and the silence deafening.

The ravines and terrain really came alive for me thanks to NHMtnHiker’s excellent trip reports on his explorations of the surrounding ravines. I’d like to take this opportunity to thank him for sharing his adventures with us. I remember looking at the route his intrepid group took up Lincoln slide from various angles and thinking how cool that was. I’ve been reading the early trail blazing trip reports of Charles Fay and AE Scott in Appalachia’s from 1880’s and 1890’s housed the library at Cardigan Lodge. I think NHMtnHiker and Dr Wu and others truly capture the spirit of those early trampers. We should tap into that spirit and nominate some of these people to the AMC Council of Improvements. I think every generation needs to add a new trail to keep that spirit alive.

I’ll close with some observations made while descending Bond Cliff Trail. People need to hear the GOOD NEWS!!! The forests of Pemigiwasett Wilderness are coming back. I’ve been studying Bove’s books on logging railroads. Bove’s book on JE Henry’s logging operations provides maps of various sub-regions and dates when they were logged. This and other expanses of the Pemigiwastt are passing the 100-year mark since being logged and are beginning to develop characteristics of an old growth forest. Bottomlands are particularly interesting forest environment as it is the natural habitat of the white pine on account of the protection that’s offered from the worst winds. White pine is the height champion of eastern North America. When left alone the white pine grows quickly in fertile bottomland areas. I’ve read reports of white pines adding 12”+ height every year. I observed a very diverse hardwood forest that included many white pines I’m guessing surpassed 100’ and will attain 150-160’ and diameters in 24-30” diameter range in 30-50 years that by most standards is majestic and would be considered beginning stages of old growth.

I believe these fertile moist sheltered bottomlands will some day be home to a superb and unique expanse of old growth forest and will become a tourist destinations in its own right. I’ve seen old growth sites in western Massachusetts that are truly awe-inspiring. These groves are generally confined to narrow river valleys of western Massachusetts and number in the 100’s of acres. The old growth regions of the Pemigiwasett Wilderness will number in 10’s of square miles. There’s a good opportunities here for someone to do historical research to more accurately date when areas were cut. Bove’s book on logging railroads reports white pines taken in the Pine Bend Brook valley 6 feet diameter at the butt end and single white pines logs taken from Swift River bottomlands that had to be notched to fit on to rail cars. These were 200+ year old pines. This requires a long-range view but I'm reaching an age when enables me to do that. Wilderness protection has made this uniquely possible.

For those interested in wading thru 139 pics My Album

Ray Caron
 
Last edited:
I think of the old photos from the days of JE Henry's clear-cutting of the Whites whenever I visit the valley between Sugarloaf and Reddington in Maine (privately held land that has seen much clear-cutting in recent decades). We really are lucky to have so much designated Wilderness in the Whites.
 
Thom -

I find it so ironic that if it weren't for the excesses of the logging industry we'd never have the WMNF in Maine and New Hampshire. The logging practices they used lead to so much erosion, stream siltation (sp?), forest fires that the public was galvanized to say 'enough is enough' and eventually large sections were placed with the NF system. At least now the public has some say in where/when & how the forest will be logged.

Who know what the landscape might look like now, or in the near future if the NF wasn't there. Maybe vacation homes all the way from Loon to North Condo? Maybe a bit far-fetched now, but would happen eventually given the population pressures of the Northeast.

Kevin
 
Jazzbo said:
The old growth regions of the Pemigiwasett Wilderness will number in 10’s of square miles. There’s a good opportunities here for someone to do historical research to more accurately date when areas were cut. Bove’s book on logging railroads reports white pines taken in the Pine Bend Brook valley 6 feet diameter at the butt end and single white pines logs taken from Swift River bottomlands that had to be notched to fit on to rail cars. These were 200+ year old pines. This requires a long-range view but I'm reaching an age when enables me to do that. Wilderness protection has made this uniquely possible.
Dr. Dasypodidae said:
I think of the old photos from the days of JE Henry's clear-cutting of the Whites whenever I visit the valley between Sugarloaf and Reddington in Maine (privately held land that has seen much clear-cutting in recent decades). We really are lucky to have so much designated Wilderness in the Whites.
(holding my tongue on the W word, especially since this is a trip report not a QA thread) We really are lucky to have so much National Forest in the Whites. WMNF ownership has been the primary determining factor towards preservation of forest lands. There is a world of difference once you step outside the forest boundary. I was saddened to learn, when I saw the Harvard Wht Mtns Map exhibition in July, that the original "proclamation boundary" (the designated limit within which the WMNF is allowed to acquire land) of 1918 included the Mahoosucs and portions of Grafton Notch -- something that got canceled & the existing proclamation boundary does not extend east or north of the Androscoggin River. (A friend of mine who's a retired WMNF forester says paper company politics & the State of Maine was responsible) Now we have T R Dillon clearing large patches of forest, too reminiscent of the early timber barons... one can hope that the Mahoosucs will receive the same bright future that the Pemi / Zealand Valley is facing under WMNF ownership.

Ray -- Glad you enjoyed the Bonds!
 
Kevin Rooney said:
I find it so ironic that if it weren't for the excesses of the logging industry we'd never have the WMNF in Maine and New Hampshire.
Another of the excesses is the old roads and railbeds that are now trails and bushwack routes...

Doug
 
Last edited:
Ray,

Excellent report and great pictures! Glad you had good weather for it. I tried doing the Bonds as a day hike out of Galehead on Monday, Sept. 4. We had rain, wind and temps that were none too warm. The three of us made it as far as Guyot before we turned back. Back at the hut we changed into dry clothes and spent the rest of the afternoon taking naps and trying to get warm. Ah well, I did this trip a few years ago and had perfect weather, so I guess I can't complain.

The groups of college kids you met were almost certainly Dartmouth freshmen doing their preschool outings. One group passed by the hut while we were there.
 
Cardigan has nice forest lands too

We just returned from New Hampshire Chapter trail work weekend at Cardigan and as usual I learned a lot of great stuff and had a great time enjoying good food and hard work with others who love trails and mountains. Yesterday there were several van loads of some frat from MIT trail running up to the summits. They managed to misplace some of their people but all turned out well. Weather certainly is capricious in the New England mountains and is part of the challange and adventure of the hills.
 
Top