Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim 11/5/06

vftt.org

Help Support vftt.org:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RickM

New member
Joined
Nov 30, 2004
Messages
26
Reaction score
5
Location
Falmouth, Maine Avatar: What, me hike?
My brother Steve and I completed a double crossing of the Grand Canyon, commonly know as Rim to Rim to Rim, on November 5, covering the 42 mile roundtrip from the South Rim to the North Rim and back in 15.5 hours. Our route was a descent of the South Kaibab trail, which begins at 7,260 feet altitude and descends 4,860 feet over 6.5 miles to the Colorado River. It's then 14.5 miles to the North Rim via the North Kaibab trail. The first seven miles of the North Kaibab trail to Cottonwood campground ascends gradually, gaining only about 1,600 feet. Over the final seven miles the trail rises more steeply, gaining another 4,241 feet before reaching the North Rim at 8,241 altitude. We then returned to the South Rim via the same route.

We first went to the Grand Canyon a year when we did Rim to Rim to Rim over three days with backpacks, staying at Bright Angel camprground and Cottonwood campground. We were struck by the incredible beauty of the area and how the colors change constantly with the lighting. On that trip, we encountered two groups that were doing one day Rim to Rim to Rim trips, starting in the early morning hours and finishing in the evening. Such an outing seemed out of reach, but we made plans to do a two day trip in the spring.

We returned this past May armed with overnight reservations at the North Rim Lodge so that we could go each direction with day packs. The North Rim can get considerable snow and its facilities are open only from mid-May to mid-October. The Grand Canyon is like an upside down mountain, with the coolest temperatures encountered at the start at the higher elevation on the Rim. We discovered that, although not yet summer, the high sun yielded warm conditions and we encountered 100 degree temps in the Canyon during the early afternoon heading in each direction. We had ample water in our Camelbaks and took electrolyte tabs, but found it hard to drink enough to keep up with what we lost through sweat. But we felt well enough at the end to think about trying a one day Rim to Rim to Rim in the fall when temperatures were cooler. We scheduled it for the first weekend in November to coincide with the full moon.

On Saturday, November 4, we drove the six hours from Steve's house in Albuquerque and checked in at the Maswik Lodge on the South Rim. We caught a few hours of sleep and got up at 1:45 A.M. to finish packing and then drove the 15 minutes to the parking area which is about one-third of a mile from the trailhead. The temperature was in the mid-30's as we walked along the road to the trailhead and my bare legs were a bit cold. But I knew things would warm warm as we descended. We headed down the trail a few minutes after 3 A.M. under headlamps and, in minutes, I was down to the t-shirt and shorts I wore throughout the day.

The South Kaibab trail descends a prominent ridge and has sweeping views into the Canyon during daylight. In the album of photos I have attached, the first five photos are of the trail during our first trip a year ago to show some of those views. As it was, were descending into a dark void. The full moon under clear skies provided some light, but not enough to discern the footing safely, so we used headlamps. The trail was quite dry and dusty, which caused the first person to kick up a cloud of dust which was then illuminated by the second person's headlamp which made it like looking through fog. Some of the illuminated dust can be seen on the photos. It was unlike any hiking I had done before and was a neat, dreamlike experience.

About 20 minutes down the trail we caught up with a local celebritry named Maverick about whom I had read in a Yahoo Grand Canyon forum. Maverick, who lives on the South Rim, turned 80 this year and decided to do 80 Rim to Rim hikes in commemoration. He hit 80 crossings earlier in the fall and decided to try for 100. We encountered him embarking on his 93rd Canyon crossing. He takes a couple of days to do the one way trip and was heading 14 miles to Cottonwood campground that day.

We descended the 6.5 miles to the Colorado River in just about two hours and refilled our water at Bright Angel campground. As we walked past Phantom Ranch in the darkness we encountered a herd of deer. We covered the seven miles to Cottonwood campground in about two hours, during which time the sun rose. The temperature at 4,000 feet at Cottonwood was a comfortable 60 degrees.

After the final steep sections on the upper North Kaibab trail, we reached the North Rim 21 miles and 7.5 hours after leaving the South Rim. We spent about 10-15 minutes on the North Rim before heading back. As we descended the North Kaibab trail we had nice sunny conditions. That trail has some magnificent sections where the trail terraces along cliff faces, as can be seen in the photos. About two miles below Cottonwood we again met Maverick on his way up.

When we returned to Bright Angel camprgound, our choice was to either ascend the 6.5 miles up the South Kaibab trail or to ascend the longer 9.3 mile Bright Angel trail. The Bright Angel trail is generally the better choice to ascend on a hot afternoon, as it has more shade and a couple of water stops along the way, while the South Kaibab trail is more exposed and has no water. During our May trip we had ascended the Bright Angel trail. When we got to the water stop halfway up at Indian Garden in the early afternoon the temperature was near 100 degrees and the area in the shade near the water was a like a refugee camp of heat exhausted hikers waiting until later in the day to continue their ascent. This trip, with the temperature at 70 and heading down, and the sun low on the horizon, we decided to re-ascend the South Kaibab trail as it would put us near our car rather than six miles away.

The sun set as we ascended and we were forced to use head lamps the last 20 minutes, as we finished at 6:30 p.m. in the darkness. After walking back to the car and driving back to Maswik Lodge, we showered and went to the sports bar where we drank beer, ate Mexican food and watched the New England Patriots lose to the Indianapolis Colts. All in all a great trip.

Photos are attached here:

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1Abs2rZo0aMXPA
 
Wow, a 2.7 MPH for 42 miles and about 11,000' -- that's an amazing pace.

I noticed one of you wore Pearl Izumi leg warmers. How do those work when hiking? I have several pairs and like them for cycling, but would be concerned about chafing and them staying up, without the bike shorts to hold them in place.

Tim
 
What boring looking trails. Where are the rocks, roots, ledges, and mud that make a trail interesting. :D

Looks like fun just the same. ;)


Edit:
This was post #666 for those of you who are superstitious. :eek: :D
 
Last edited:
NH_Mtn_Hiker said:
What boring looking trails. Where are the rocks, roots, ledges, and mud that make a trail interesting. :D
Try it in the rain--the flash floods will have you longing for the rocks, roots, ledges, and mud. :)

BTW, they also add mule dung to the dust/mud mix on some of the trails.

(Seriously, people die in the flash floods out there...)

Nice hike--I've only done the south of the river part.

Doug
 
Bikehikeskifish:
Concerning your question about the Pearl Izumi leg warmers, I checked with my brother who was the one wearing them. He said he wore them with loose shorts since he knew he would be taking them off early in the hike and just wanted something to keep his legs warm on the walk to the trailhead. He thinks you would need tighter shorts, like bike shorts, to keep them up if you wore them longer.
 
rim to rim to rim in a day -- holy cow! That's some hike. Glad you made it safely and nice pictures. Did any rangers know of your hike and did any attempt to dissuade you?
 
We did not notify any rangers. I had read it was official policy to discourage the trips, but had spoken to a ranger when we did our two day Rim to Rim to Rim and he didn't seem to have any problem with the one or two day trips. I had also read it suggested that one technically needs a backcountry permit since one is in the backcountry overnight. But we decided to just consider 3 A.M. an early start and didn't get a permit. As it was, we saw no rangers on that day.
 
Just curious because the last time we had been there (May this year), there were signs everywhere about how most of the rescues happen for people attempting rim to rim as a day hike (or even just down to the river and back), and most of the rescues are actually young males. I would've considered 3 am an early start too. And that Maverick guy sounds like a machine! That's pretty cool.
 
RickM said:
Bikehikeskifish:
He thinks you would need tighter shorts, like bike shorts, to keep them up if you wore them longer.

The PI leg warmers come with sizes and do have a band of elastic on the top, it's really important to try them on cause it's hard to gauge size via the internet or so and it sucks if they are coming down every 5 seconds. Hiking with the bike shorts with padding is a pain as the pads are generally made to be comfy when you are seated, as on a bike, not for walking. :)

I will hike in the winter with some Pearl Isumi microfleece tights, as either a baselayer or by itself cause they're mighty warm. I have a pair of PI leg warmers and generic coolmax arm warmers that are great for commuting during the shoulder seasons. Don't use them hiking too much but I can.

Nice trip report and pictures, sounds like a tough but fun hike.

Jay
 
They have a lot of rescues of unprepared hikers. The Bright Angel trailhead is right off the busy Rim Trail. The easy (downhill) part comes first. The temperature rises during the descent. Folks find themselves with insufficient water and physical reserves to make it back up.
 
RickM said:
They have a lot of rescues of unprepared hikers. The Bright Angel trailhead is right off the busy Rim Trail. The easy (downhill) part comes first. The temperature rises during the descent. Folks find themselves with insufficient water and physical reserves to make it back up.
Yea, that's what I figure they try to scare the bejesus out of everybody with their warnings. I think the point they were trying to make in the posters I saw was that often the hikers were fairly fit, but underestimated the canyon. Did you see any of the posters about Margaret Bradley? Sad story. :(
 
with all the banter lately on this site about the dangers of winter hiking and hypothermia, it's interesting (if not tragic), to see an example of the polar extreme. just proves you can never be too careful whatever the time of year. thanks for the bradley link and kudos on your dayhike!
 
pudgy_groundhog said:
Yea, that's what I figure they try to scare the bejesus out of everybody with their warnings. I think the point they were trying to make in the posters I saw was that often the hikers were fairly fit, but underestimated the canyon.
Hi PG,

I did the day hike to Phantom Ranch & back a couple decades ago, and they were still trying to discourage it. We split our group of 4 in half so we could do the Bright Angel-South Kaibab loop with only one car and the rangers wouldn't even give us a 2nd map for the second group - they were 8.5x11 b/w and they couldn't spare 2. The elevation gain is similar to Mt Washington with a much easier trail, we all knew we could do it and had no trouble. But like Baxter Park they base their info on least common denominator.

RickM - I'd heard of some Coloradans doing r-r-r but I'm glad to read a first-person account.
 
RickM said:
I had read it was official policy to discourage the trips, but had spoken to a ranger when we did our two day Rim to Rim to Rim and he didn't seem to have any problem with the one or two day trips.
When I was there, the rangers basically tried to discourage everyone from going down to the river and back out in one day.

Doug
 
Top