Stepping Between the Seasons -- North Twin Mountain (14-Oct-2009)

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Feldmarschal

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Joined
Oct 21, 2007
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Location
Groton, MA (Avatar: North Twin Trail)
I am no stranger to hiking in October. In 2003, three of us climbed Mounts Jackson and Webster. The weather that day was a brisk 25 degrees and though we got hit with snow flurries on both summits and during the descent, the impact had been minimal. In 2006, I soloed Carter Dome in late October. The weather that day was clear, but cold and windy. While ice was beginning to form near the summit, there was no snow on the ground. With those two trips in mind, and the fact that it was only the 14th of October, I was not expecting anything out of the ordinary. Just some cold weather, which I’d experienced before and handled with ease. Gary, my long-time friend and hiking partner this day, did recommend packing stabilicers just in case, so I did buy a pair at REI the day before and clipped them to my pack with a carabiner. As it turned out, I’m glad I did, because it saved the hike.

Our plan for this day was to climb to the summit of North Twin Mountain (elev. 4761′) via the aptly named North Twin Trail. According to the AMC White Mountain Guide, this trip would cover 4.3 miles in 3 hours and 40 minutes and gain 2950′ in elevation. The trail itself would follow the Little River for about 2 or so miles, crossing it 3 times, and then climb up one of the ridges on the northeastern slope of the mountain. The last half mile would be particularly steep before cresting about .2 miles from the treed summit. In spite of the trees, there are two ledgy viewpoints which would give us near 360 degree views of the surrounding countryside, if the weather cooperated. An optional extension of this plan would take us further away from civilization by following the North Twin Spur trail over to the summit of South Twin Mountain (elev. 4902′). In the end, we decided against that side trip for reasons which will become clear.

Because darkness falls early this time of year, we got a very early start on our day. I picked Gary up at his house at 4:30am and we immediately set off. We were going to eat breakfast at the Tilt’n Diner in Tilton, NH at 6am, but it was closed when we got there at 5:40am. Unperturbed, we topped off the gas tank at the Shell station next door and continued north. Some place had to be open somewhere. About 40 minutes later, we found Peg’s Restaurant in North Woodstock, NH and had a breakfast of french toast, ham (bacon for Gary) and home fries. By 7:30, we were on the road again.

As we approached Franconia Notch, we began to see that maybe this day would not be a typical late autumn hike. While the forests were a sea of gold, orange and brown, with tinges of red here and there, the upper flanks of the mountains were white. Not a solid ski slope white, but there was enough frost/snow to make us wonder. Rounding the corner of Cannon Mountain, where the Old Man of the Mountains used to be, I could see that the branches of some of the trees were encased in ice. Beautiful, but also an omen of sorts. No matter, I had many warm layers in my pack, two pairs of gloves and my new Stabilicers. How bad could it get?

We got to the trailhead a little before 8am. Immediately, we got an idea of what the day might be like. There was snow on the ground in the parking lot and in the surrounding countryside. It was lightly snowing little snow pellets and our breath was smoking in the chill air. I looked at Gary and a smile broke wide on my face. This was going to be a fun day. We geared up at set off at 8:05am.

The trail was wet from the previous day’s rain, but it was beautiful nonetheless. It was covered in gold and orange and brown leaves. The air around us was filled with lightly falling snow pellets and the crackling of those pellets falling on the leaves overhead filled the air. The clouds were low, but it was still early in the morning, enough time for the sun to burn the cloud cover away hopefully.

At 0.8 miles into the hike, the trail crosses the Little River for the first time. The Little River is well named. While not a river even by New England’s exaggerated standards, it is no easily forded calm stream. There were several boulders and smaller rocks with which to cross, but almost all of the possible routes had breaks with swiftly flowing torrents passing through. So, Gary and I picked our way further and further upstream in an attempt to find a passable route. The guide book does mention that there is an unmarked path that hikers can take to avoid the first and second river crossings if they’re comfortable with bushwhacking, but we opted to do the river crossings.

After a while, I found a decent rockhopping route and leaped across one of the torrents. Gary, with his heavier pack, couldn’t make that leap so we both continued upstream on each side of the river. After quite a hike, he was able to cross, but now we were quite a bit away from where the trail had crossed. Instead of backtracking, we decided to climb up the riverbank and bushwhack across on a steady compass bearing until we hit the trail, which we did in 5 or so minutes. Gary then marked that point on the trail so that he could backtrack on the way down and easily recross the river.

In about a half mile, it was time for the second crossing. As we approached the river, however, the skies opened up and a downpour of snow pellets fell all around us and on the rocks that we’d be using to cross. The pellets now clung to the rocks making our footing quite treacherous in places. Still, we had to get across the river.

Again, we had a difficult time finding good routes to use to cross. Once again, I got myself over half way across to a position where I’d have to jump. This time, however, the distance was a bit too great to try with my trekking pole and backpack. So, while balanced on two pumpkin-sized rocks with a torrent of water churning in front of me, I tossed my pole across to the far side. Then I took my backpack off and heaved it across, thinking, as I tossed it, that it was heavier than I thought. Luckily, it made it across just fine. Now, with no weight on my back to throw me off, I flung myself over to a flat wet rock on the other side and grabbed the boulder that it sat against. Safely across, I looked back at Gary who looked at me like I needed some professional help.

With no good routes to choose from, Gary decided to ford the stream. He took his boots and socks off, put on a pair of crocs, hiked up his pant legs and walked across in shin-deep frigid water. After he crossed, he simply dried off his feet and legs with a bandana, put his boots and socks back on and we continued on.

After about another half mile, we came to the third crossing. This one was easier, but it still took some fancy rockhopping to get across. By this point, we’d covered 1.9 miles and still had 2.4 miles to go.

Now the trail started climbing in earnest. The first half of the trail had followed an old logging railroad bed and the grade was somewhat easy. Because of that, we were only at around 2500′ and still had 2200′+ to cover in the next 2.4 miles. So, onward and upward we went.

It was at 2800′ or so that we started noticing that there was more snow on the trail than leaves. A look into the evergreen trees around us also showed anywhere from a half to a full inch of snow encrusted in the branches. Within the next 200′ of elevation gain, the gold and orange and brown of autumn was a memory; we were now fully in winter.

(cont'd)
 
And it was beautiful. Absolutely, breathtakingly beautiful. After hiking almost non-stop since the beginning, we stopped for a water, snack and layering break in an area I called the Cathedral of the Pines. Snow-covered branches formed holy arches over the trail mere feet from our heads. The sides of the trail revealed glimpses to views of white evergreens and, lower down in the valleys, the autumnal colors that we’d just hiked through earlier. Nearer, plants caught in mid-autumn held onto gold and orange leaves while snow clung to their stems and branches. I turned to Gary and said, “Whether you believe in God or the Entropy of the Universe, regardless, they do great work.”

After our break, we restarted the climb. It got quite a bit steeper, but I barely noticed it. Instead, my eyes were fixed on the wonder around me, a smile frozen to my face, but not due to the increasingly colder temperatures around us.

As we continued to gain elevation, the snow got deeper and deeper and the trail, which had been merely dusted, was now completely covered. We discovered loose rocks underfoot by stepping on them and either turning our ankles or slipping a bit. (Thankfully, my ankles are pretty flexible.) After a while, we came upon one of those types of trail obstacles that one finds in the Whites, a 4 foot high granite wall that needed to be scambled over. The two inches of snow on it made it dangerous as well as tricky. This is where Gary decided to put his stabilicers on. While he did that, I made the scamble and hiked a bit ahead. After seeing more of those types of obstacles ahead, I put my stabilicers on too.

The stabilicers were a godsend. Whereas we’d been testing every footstep for slippage, the stabilicers gripped both packed snow and granite with ease. Within minutes, were were cresting the ridge and came to the first of the two ledgy outlooks. Unfortunately, we had very limited views. The sun had not burned the cloud cover away. However, the terrain around us was beautiful to behold. The evergreen trees around us were completely white with snow and rime ice coating their very needles.

With no views at the first, northerly outlook, we continued on and reached the summit in 5 or so minutes. The hike along the gently sloping ground was breathtaking. We marched through a powdered corridor of white-encrusted scrub trees, the latter providing shelter from the steady winds and gusts that whipped across the mountaintop.

After reaching the summit, we took the side path to the second, southerly viewpoint, but the clouds were there as well. On top of that, the open face exposed us to the frigid winds. Undaunted and tempted by the chance of catching some kind of view in case the clouds parted, we set up camp, layered up and had our lunch.

We stayed only long enough to catch some decent views and finish our lunch. Even so, it was difficult keeping our extremities warm. At one point, Gary was hopping and flapping his arms to get the blood going to his feet and hands, yelling, “You too will believe a hiker can fly!” I then followed suit and as we were jumping around crazily, the clouds started lifting. “Faster! Faster!” I shouted, willing the clouds to part, and part they did. We were treated to glorious views of the countryside. By the time Gary got his camera out, quite a bit of the view was obscured again, but he did manage to catch one of me with the autumnal valley in the background.

It wasn’t long after this that my toes were completely numb, so I packed up my stuff and headed for the shelter of the trees at the summit proper. Gary stayed behind a while and tried to catch more views with his camera. At one point, he called me back and I ran to catch glimpses of Mount Garfield, Galehead Mountain and the Galehead AMC Hut. As awesome as that was, my toes were still numb and I soon ran back. The running managed to get some circulation back into my toes, but not enough.

After about five minutes or so and a couple more pictures, Gary and I were heading back down, deciding to forego the side trip to South Twin. The descent was as beautiful as the ascent. Still, I was concerned about my toes. The boots I was wearing were three-season dayhikers and I was only wearing regular wool socks. They were not rated for winter hiking and I’d spent a couple of hours hiking through snow and lounging in an exposed position on the mountain. Slowly but surely, as we made our descent, feeling came back to each of my toes, except the big toe on my right foot. Suddenly, about 20 minutes into my hike, my big toe came to life in a blast of searing pain. But only parts of it. As I kept hiking down, other parts of my toe would spring back to searing life, each step bringing a new adventure in pain. Finally, after about 5 minutes of that, everything was back to normal. I could feel all of my toes.

The descent was tricky even with the stabilicers. With all the snow, we couldn’t tell which rocks were solid and which would roll under our feet when we stepped on them. The stabilicers were great for gripping, but gripping something that would roll and shift wasn’t helpful. Quite a few times, my ankles turned and twisted this way and that. Apart from that, we made good time heading down.

When we got near the Little River, we took our stabilicers off and delayered. We were back in autumn again.

We crossed the Little River again and did it easily this time, having crossed once before. A half mile later, we came to the difficult second crossing and decided to bushwhack down the unmarked side trail along the river’s edge instead of having to make those two difficult crossings. We made better time, even with some of the confusing meanderings that the trail took. Eventually, we were back to the leaf-covered golden trail and back to the car.

It was an awesome hike. We changed seasons, made difficult decisions, encountered obstacles and figured out how to overcome them. We had the right equipment, if only just barely, and came through without even a scratch.

Above all, we had fun. This kind of hike brings me back to my pre-teen days of rockhopping across streams and trekking across snow-encrusted pastures and woodlands with cold toes and a cold nose. All in all, not a bad way to spend a work day.


Facebook Photo Album
 
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Great photos! What a difference a few weeks makes - we just did North Twin on 9/27, when the graceful arc of South Twin's col down to Galehead was ablaze with color. You must have been freezing up there - hopefully the beauty of such freshly fallen snow was heartwarming.
 
Thanks, TwinMom. :)

It would have been a bit nicer if we had better views from the top, but the hike was well worth it.

As far as being cold goes, it actually wasn't too bad except for the southerly viewpoint. That area caught all the wind. I also had enough fleece layers and extra gloves to keep myself warm. My boots were the weak spot. I'll have to invest in a heavier pair for late autumn hiking.
 
Great trip report. It sounds like a slightly more intense version of my first hike on the Twins back in 2006. I just checked that that was a mid October hike. I bypassed the first two crossings but totally submerged one foot on the third crossing. Even after changing socks, I had numb toes. Thankfully on that day, things warmed up as I got near the summit and I was able to continue on to South Twin without risk to my wet foot.

This was the hike that got me shopping for more suitable winter boots!
 
Great report - glad you found the way to avoid two crossings on the way back. It's pretty much a herd path now and not a real bushwack since so many people use it.

Your hike just shows how unpredictable weather can be in the Whites. I did North Twin for the first time (along with repeating South Twin and Galehead) on 11/5/08. It was in the 40s down low at 7:30 AM, and probably in the 30s on the summits - with hardly any ice on the whole hike.
 
Glenn:

Great pic! I'll definitely have to go back to the Twins to take in those views. I'd been pushing the North Twin hike off for quite some time as it looked like a simple in/out peakbagging hike with little to show for the effort. Boy, was I mistaken!

I saw someone's Facebook photo album of their hike to the Twins + Galehead this past Saturday. Were you in that group? The river crossings looked a little easier than what we hit. The water was running a bit high and fast on Wednesday to the point where pole planting and vaulting was not an option due to the force of the water. Quite a few of the rocks were under water as well.

Bob:

Yeah, the "whack" path was very easy to follow except for a couple of minor twists and turns. They should make it an official alternate trail, imho, since enough people use it now. I enjoyed the rockhopping on the way up, but was tired enough on the descent that I was glad the option was there.

Bill:

Winter and/or heavier boots are on my to-buy list now. My Vasque dayhikers didn't do too badly considering how long I was kicking through the snow, but making camp in the wind was too much for them.
 
Glenn:

Great pic! I'll definitely have to go back to the Twins to take in those views. I'd been pushing the North Twin hike off for quite some time as it looked like a simple in/out peakbagging hike with little to show for the effort. Boy, was I mistaken!

I saw someone's Facebook photo album of their hike to the Twins + Galehead this past Saturday. Were you in that group? The river crossings looked a little easier than what we hit. The water was running a bit high and fast on Wednesday to the point where pole planting and vaulting was not an option due to the force of the water. Quite a few of the rocks were under water as well.


Was that Bob and Geri's group? I saw them at the trail head. I had other plans for the day. We made an end of season trip to clear water bars and blowdowns.

Regarding the bypass.....I usually find it to be easier to cross and hike the trail. The footing and grades are so much better on the trail. If the crossings are difficult, I'll use the bypass.

Happy Trails,
Glenn
 
Nice report, very descriptive. We did the Twins and Galehead a few weeks ago, and you've got to get to South Twin on a clear day. The views are something else......
Petch
 
Was that Bob and Geri's group? I saw them at the trail head. I had other plans for the day. We made an end of season trip to clear water bars and blowdowns.

Regarding the bypass.....I usually find it to be easier to cross and hike the trail. The footing and grades are so much better on the trail. If the crossings are difficult, I'll use the bypass.

Happy Trails,
Glenn

I believe it was Bob & Geri's group.
 
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