percious
Well-known member
This is a catch-up post about a trip I did on memorial day... Here goes...
For the past few months I have been climbing with something of a "partner" and it has been great. It is nice to have someone at your level who you can trust completely on belay, who has climbed things you cannot even fathom at this point in your life. I have been working to familiarize Mike to the world of "trad" climbing, he is an old-time sporty, as far as I can tell, but he shows promise!
Anyway. Mike was tired from a hard bouldering fest but DID NOT BAIL for the simple reason that the other partner I had lined up did. Props to the non-bailers out there. 2 1/2 hours later we were walking down the carriage trail. I had our day all planned out. Last trip I had rappelled down Ccalisthenic and found it applealing. Now I was leaping at the first hold on the route while my gear jangled across my bare chest. Yes! This was climbing!
I made short work of the run out slab, and on P2 I found myself at a curious overhang which I made short work of after z-clipping! Needless to say I was a bit pumped after putting all that protection in, but I felt pretty safe. Mike followed me up. We figured out how to rap down Calisthenic in 2 and were at the base checking on Shockley's.
It turned out to be free, but man, it was a scorcher. I chatted with an EMS guide while leading the start of the first pitch. The first belay was at a large white ledge that reflected the sun to make a perfect oven. I down-climbed and made a station behind a cool flake. Mike followed me up.
P2 was easy climbing but beautifully exposed and I was soon below the crux roof/horn. Mike passed over the gear while we discussed how to photograph the crux. It was a bit intimidating, so we decided it was best if he concentrated on belaying me. I performed the crux move without and ounce of grace, throwing my leg over the horn. I set another belay up quickly so I could watch Mike. He used a completely different technique to get up, but his way looked no less albatross-like. We jogged to the top.
(cont.)
For the past few months I have been climbing with something of a "partner" and it has been great. It is nice to have someone at your level who you can trust completely on belay, who has climbed things you cannot even fathom at this point in your life. I have been working to familiarize Mike to the world of "trad" climbing, he is an old-time sporty, as far as I can tell, but he shows promise!
Anyway. Mike was tired from a hard bouldering fest but DID NOT BAIL for the simple reason that the other partner I had lined up did. Props to the non-bailers out there. 2 1/2 hours later we were walking down the carriage trail. I had our day all planned out. Last trip I had rappelled down Ccalisthenic and found it applealing. Now I was leaping at the first hold on the route while my gear jangled across my bare chest. Yes! This was climbing!
I made short work of the run out slab, and on P2 I found myself at a curious overhang which I made short work of after z-clipping! Needless to say I was a bit pumped after putting all that protection in, but I felt pretty safe. Mike followed me up. We figured out how to rap down Calisthenic in 2 and were at the base checking on Shockley's.
It turned out to be free, but man, it was a scorcher. I chatted with an EMS guide while leading the start of the first pitch. The first belay was at a large white ledge that reflected the sun to make a perfect oven. I down-climbed and made a station behind a cool flake. Mike followed me up.
P2 was easy climbing but beautifully exposed and I was soon below the crux roof/horn. Mike passed over the gear while we discussed how to photograph the crux. It was a bit intimidating, so we decided it was best if he concentrated on belaying me. I performed the crux move without and ounce of grace, throwing my leg over the horn. I set another belay up quickly so I could watch Mike. He used a completely different technique to get up, but his way looked no less albatross-like. We jogged to the top.
(cont.)
Shockley's is such a cool looking climb, glad you guys got on it... I've yet to make it to the Gunks this season... 
