White Cap, Boundary Peak, and Kennebago Divide – North Peak Attempt, 8/25/2012

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BIGEarl

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August 25, 2012: White Cap and Kennebago Divide – North Peak

Trails: Logging Road, Herd Paths, and Bushwhacks

Summits: White Cap Mountain, Kennebago Divide – North Peak

Hikers: Trail Trotter (Sue) and me



Directions:

Our route to this hike was based on an earlier hike by Bob & Geri. Our recorded distances are slightly different.

We approached the hike location from the NH – Maine state line on Route 16.

From the NH/ME state line on route 16…

Follow Rte. 16 for 22 miles to Morton Cutoff Logging Road/Cold Brook Road on the left. At this turn, be sure to set the odometer to zero.


From Rte 16, take the Morton Cutoff logging road.
AT 3.3 miles take a right onto Lincoln Pond Road (this becomes Tim Pond Road).
Follow this until 10.6 miles where you take a left onto an unnamed logging road.
At 13.6 miles take a right onto Wiggle Brook Road.
At 14.1 miles take a left onto an unnamed logging road (Bear Brook Road).
This location very close to the Wiggle Brook Bridge over Kennebago River.
Follow this road to the obvious end location at 2600 feet where there is an open area for parking.

Usually, when Sue and I sink our teeth into something we don’t let go until we’re finished with it. This time, common sense prevailed.

The plans for the day were to hike White Cap, Boundary Peak, and North Kennebago Divide – North Peak. We got an early start from Nashua for the five-hour drive to the end of Bear Brook Road in Eustis. At 2600 feet, the end of vehicle travel on the road is obvious and there is an area that can handle a number of parked vehicles. The road to this point did not have any problems that a vehicle with a normal amount of clearance couldn’t handle. We parked out of the way in case others came in, grabbed our things, and set off. We planned to hike White Cap, Boundary Peak, and Kennebago Divide, in that order. We had terrific hiking conditions to start (a little high on the humidity scale), but the forecast had the day becoming questionable in the afternoon with a prediction of thunderstorms.

First up – White Cap. Descriptions of the hike indicated all we needed to do was continue out the road corridor from the parking location; eventually, as the road approaches the col between White Cap and Kennebago Divide, the road would transition to a well worn herd path that leads directly to the canister on the summit. Anybody should be able to follow those directions. We headed up the road getting occasional pictures along the way and eventually the road changed to a herd path. The herd path was mostly open with only a few places that were a little tight. A short distance from the summit there is a place where a large cairn and small cairn are located at a split. The small cairn is on the left split, we went left and continued to the canister. Nothing to it! That’s one.

Now, the plan had us bushwhacking from White Cap directly to the US/Canada border at Boundary Monument 450, roughly a mile away. From there we planned to hike the boundary cut to Boundary Peak and then return via the reverse route. It’s a simple plan; what could possibly go wrong?

With the bearing set on the compass we set off. The growth on White Cap is dense! We had a tough time just starting to leave the summit. After a little pushing and pulling we were away from the summit and headed for the col between White Cap and Monument 450. We were able to take advantage of a couple herd paths as we made our way to the col. A number of times we found ourselves backing up and working one way or the other to get around areas of growth too thick to push through. We tried working our way to the south of our target line and couldn’t find any relief; it was the same on the north.

Once we were in the col we stopped to do a sanity check on our plans for the day. Hiking from the summit to our current location required ~50% more time than our plan allowed for the full bushwhack. We were unable to move through the area as fast as we had hoped. Once we reached Monument 450 we would have a ~5.5 mile round trip to Boundary Peak, and then a reverse bushwhack that would again take much longer than planned (probably). Waiting for us after all of this was a bushwhack to the summit of Kennebago Divide. It seemed very likely we wouldn’t be able to complete all three in the day’s plan. We decided it would be better to get White Cap and Kennebago Divide now and return for Boundary Peak on another trip. We bailed on Boundary Peak, made the u-turn, and re-climbed to the summit of White Cap.

We left White Cap for a second time headed to Kennebago Divide. In the vicinity of the col we found a herd path heading off in the general direction we needed and decided to take advantage of it. Soon, after we passed a number of less-worn herd paths split off in assorted directions, the original path seemed to just end. We back-tracked to the col and the main trail we followed from the truck. A short distance below the col was a cairn in the middle of the trail and a herd path entering from the direction of Kennebago Divide. We both noticed it on the initial climb and decided to go there and continue our hike to Kennebago Divide.

We started out the herd path and soon came to another cairn. A short distance further along the herd path turns and climbs. We were feeling pretty good about this being the path that would lead us to the canister. As all of this was going on the sky became overcast and there was no sun. It’s really easy to use the sun as a navigation aid and something I often do. With a solid herd path leading the way I think we both put navigation on the back burner for a while. The herd path split a number of times as we hiked along. In each case, we selected the direction that appeared to be most worn, or just “felt” like the right direction.

We continued along and found ourselves on a more open herd path. Feeling pretty good about our progress I checked my altimeter and it showed we had only another hundred feet or so to the summit. Then, it happened. I stopped dead in my tracks not believing what I was seeing. We were back on the herd path that led us to White Cap. We actually managed to do a half-mile circle and were on our way back to the White Cap canister. Every once in a while I do something that is just plain stupid; I guess this is an example of just plain stupid.

There was some grumbling but we soon got back into our hike plan and again headed for Kennebago Divide. This time we headed back out the initial herd path and as soon as it started off in a bad direction we went bushwhacking to the summit. We stayed on course and went through anything the mountain had to toss our way. Roughly a hundred feet below the summit we again landed on a herd path. This latest herd path was actually headed our way. Both Sue and I were ready for a break from the dense growth and were happy to jump on this herd path. It led us directly to the summit and canister.

The hike out went a little better – it almost had to go better. There were many herd paths along the way out and we always stayed with the one that seemed most used, or definitely headed down and toward the trail. We kept track of direction and elevation all of the way down. Eventually, we landed on the trail that led back to the truck. As we were approaching the trail junction we passed a cairn that we both remembered from our earlier attempt that ended back on White Cap. Suddenly we knew where we were. We continued a short distance and landed on the trail at the cairn mentioned earlier. We turned down hill and finished our loop of White Cap and Kennebago Divide - North Peak.

That was easy. We tossed our things into the back, grabbed a couple cold drinks from the cooler, and took off.. Tough day!


Pictures will follow.


:)
 
That report brought back some old memories. I remember it pretty much as you described it--easy to White Cap and a tangled mess up to Kenebego.

If you eventually get Boundary by going into Canada and taking the snowmobile route up to the swath you'll be surprised at how easy it is. Even with the drive all the way up there Duffy and I were out by noon. We picked up Cupsuptic Snow that afternoon after crossing back over the border on our way back.

Make sure you bring your passport:) Also, the canister, as I remember, is located only ten or 20 feet off the swath on the American side. I read here some time ago how the American border patrol told some hikers they would be arrested if they walked from Canada back into the US to sign the canister--absolutely asinine. Maybe you'd better just tell them you're going hiking in Canada.

Also, don't go up there in Moose season. You'll know what I mean when you get there but the Canadian side will be a veritable arsenal at that time, you'd never get out of there alive.
 
I’ve posted some pictures from the day.


BIGEarl's Pictures


Straight to the slideshow

:)



My goodness, Earl, that sounded like a long day. Riveting report, though. You had me rooting for a good outcome.
Thanks Mike,

Bushwhacking the thick stuff in Western Maine on a hot & humid day can sure get interesting. Always fun if you bring your sense of humor. (That’s the only good approach)

;)




That report brought back some old memories. I remember it pretty much as you described it--easy to White Cap and a tangled mess up to Kenebego.

If you eventually get Boundary by going into Canada and taking the snowmobile route up to the swath you'll be surprised at how easy it is. Even with the drive all the way up there Duffy and I were out by noon. We picked up Cupsuptic Snow that afternoon after crossing back over the border on our way back.

Make sure you bring your passport:) Also, the canister, as I remember, is located only ten or 20 feet off the swath on the American side. I read here some time ago how the American border patrol told some hikers they would be arrested if they walked from Canada back into the US to sign the canister--absolutely asinine. Maybe you'd better just tell them you're going hiking in Canada.

Also, don't go up there in Moose season. You'll know what I mean when you get there but the Canadian side will be a veritable arsenal at that time, you'd never get out of there alive.
Thanks Ed,

“Tangled mess” definitely describes the Kennebago Divide side of the street.

Sue and I will be heading back for a re-run to Boundary Peak as soon as we can. I believe September 29 – October 21 is the blackout period – Moose Season in Quebec Zone 4.
Hopefully we’ll go before, otherwise very soon after.

Coming up against a Quebec hunter with a high-powered firearm in one hand and a six-pack in the other, upset that we are passing through “his” area, might be uncomfortable.

My passport expired last year and I don't think Sue has a current passport either. We'll probably make another run at it from the U.S. side of the border fence.

:D
 
Hey Earl,

That is quite a TR! You and Sue are not the first people to walk around in circles trying to find the best herd path up N. Kennebago Divide. My group of four did the same dang thing. :eek: When we realized that this, we decided to take a straight shot at the summit through the thick woods. Fortunately, we did eventually find a herd path that took us right to the summit.

One thing I did not do is attempt Boundary off of Whitecap. Ray Loring and I drove into Canada and it was a proverbial cakewalk. Good luck to you and Sue if you take another stab at it from the US side.

Best regards my friend,
Marty
 
It seemed strange that you climbed the middle peak first, but looking at the map there isn't really a good way to get all 3 from where you started without extensive backtracking. People used to start from Porter Brook pre 9/11 but border issues may make that inadvisable now.

Looking at the satellite photo there are cut areas very close to Boundary Peak on the US side if you don't want to mess with passports, but it's not yet a popular route
http://mapper.acme.com/?ll=45.25791,-70.83032&z=15&t=S&marker0=45.26703,-70.84139,unnamed
 
Hey Earl,

That is quite a TR! You and Sue are not the first people to walk around in circles trying to find the best herd path up N. Kennebago Divide. My group of four did the same dang thing. :eek: When we realized that this, we decided to take a straight shot at the summit through the thick woods. Fortunately, we did eventually find a herd path that took us right to the summit.

One thing I did not do is attempt Boundary off of Whitecap. Ray Loring and I drove into Canada and it was a proverbial cakewalk. Good luck to you and Sue if you take another stab at it from the US side.

Best regards my friend,
Marty
Thanks Marty,

Based on the web of herd paths that exists, I’m sure there have been many folks walking in circles before us and there will be many more to come. Knowing you’re on that list makes me feel I’m in very good company.

Bushwhacking Kennebago Divide is tough, but that’s the only thing we were comfortable doing after the first herd paths didn’t work out. We made it through another character-building experience with very little blood.

Bushwhacking from White Cap to Monument 450 is similarly very tough. We just couldn’t get our speed where it needed to be. We were burning way too much time. Recognizing we were going to lose one peak from the day we made the decision to lose Boundary Peak.

It’ll all work out. We’ll get it.

;)




It seemed strange that you climbed the middle peak first, but looking at the map there isn't really a good way to get all 3 from where you started without extensive backtracking. People used to start from Porter Brook pre 9/11 but border issues may make that inadvisable now.
…..
Thanks Roy,

Is there a place where I can find information on these previously popular routes?

In looking at the map it seems approaching from Porter Brook would require extensive backtracking. I’d be very interested in understanding that particular approach, as well as others that have similar objectives.

:confused:
 

Thanks Paradox,

Very nice! This is very helpful for planning our next trip.

:)

I may have incorrectly read the earlier response but I was left with the impression he was questioning why we approached the three peaks in the way that we did because it would require "extensive backtracking". I also had the impression he was suggesting an approach from Porter Brook could get the job done for all three without "extensive backtracking". Perhaps I'm reading it wrong.

:confused:
 
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I'd swear I read somewhere that this was no longer a viable approach. I know Skimom did it this way (as an out and back, no exit via Canada). Marchowes? Any comments?
 
The common AMC route used to be to park at the Porter Brook bridge which is about the same elev you parked although farther from the col. (4wd can be driven up the brook but why bother?) Hike woods rd to col and tag NKD then White Cap, then bushwhack to boundary swath and follow it to Boundary Peak. You can follow the boundary swath back all the way to the main road near Lake Arnold hence no bushwhack on return, but pre-9/11 people would use one of the ATV trails to drop off into Canada and walk around avoiding the reclimb of Mon 450 so no significant elevation gain on return either.

You have to backtrack only from NKD to the col plus however far you return on the boundary before dropping off - maybe a mile on the 1st Paradox rte which is less advisable after 9/11
 
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Remember that the advantage of "Bob&Geri" routes is the careful documentation of a route that somebody used, they may not be the best route now or even when they were written.
...........
Thanks Roy,

If it matters, you might want to re-read my original comments.

I'm not sure the reason for taking a shot at Bob & Geri, but that's okay.

The reference to Bob&Geri's route pertained only to the section of the drive from the pavement on Route 16 to the parking place on Bear Brook Road, and has nothing at all to do with the hike route. I'm pretty sure it would be tough to improve on their recommendation unless you tweaked the route because a bridge has been rebuilt since the time of their hike.

:rolleyes:
 
If it matters, you might want to re-read my original comments.

I'm not sure the reason for taking a shot at Bob & Geri, but that's okay.

The reference to Bob&Geri's route pertained only to the section of the drive from the pavement on Route 16 to the parking place on Bear Brook Road, and has nothing at all to do with the hike route. I'm pretty sure it would be tough to improve on their recommendation unless you tweaked the route because a bridge has been rebuilt since the time of their hike.
I removed the comment from my other post as apparently the route you used is not one they suggested hence as you say comment not relevant.

If you took my comment to mean that I think some of their routes are non-optimal, that is a correct interpretation of my views. In some cases road destruction and construction has changed the best route, in some cases they did not try another route that was superior, and sometimes people just disagree on things. Some people don't think bushwhack routes should be posted at all.

If I was just doing Boundary I would approach from the E and do no boundary walking at all as mentioned in my original post, I suggested that route here a couple years ago but don't know if that guy tried it. This is not a B&G report, I never tried it myself :)
 
Una_dogger and I did what I thought was the old school approach: up the logging road to the turnaround, walk up to Whitecap, bushwhack to the swath, get within a mile of Boundary (yes I know some call it Panther) Peak, discover there's almost no water left and I'm badly dehydrated, turn back to the monument and bushwhack back to Whitecap, bushwhack up NKD and back (with difficulty, without herd paths), and get out just at dusk with a spouse threatening to kill you if she has to push through any more “stick forest.”

Isn't getting around Dennison Bog the big issue with the eastern approach to Boundary?
 
Una_dogger and I did what I thought was the old school approach:
I'm not sure where that route came from if not B&G, as it looks decidedly inferior to Porter Brook or the Canadian approach for those with passports
Isn't getting around Dennison Bog the big issue with the eastern approach to Boundary?
Dennison Bog is near the border and won't affect a true E approach. The satellite photo link in my first post shows a clearcut 1/4 mile from the summit on the E, and one assumes they aren't allowed to build roads across swamps any more - the issue is how far you can drive due to gates and washouts hence how far you need to walk.
 
I'm not sure where that route came from if not B&G, as it looks decidedly inferior to Porter Brook or the Canadian approach for those with passports

I thought I got it (whack from White Cap to Monument 450) from the old Gene Danielle info packet. Anyone got one handy to confirm or deny?

I don't remember the Canadian approach even being listed as an option back when I started the 100.
 
Okay, so on the Gene Daniell packet I did the "East Approach" which discusses the 'whack from White Cap over to the swath on Peak 3527. I used alternate (B&G?) driving directions due to the missing bridge.
 
FWIW - I've done Boundary a couple of times. The first was using what was then the standard bushwhack described in the AMC 4K handout from Whitecap. I finished my NEHH on that peak, which was about the only thing which made the hot, humid 'whack in late June bearable.

The second time I did it was much saner. Drove as far as practical to the pond (on the left), parked, and then walked with my friends the rest of the way thru the rickety border "gate" around the corner of Monument, and then followed ATV trails into the boggy col and the herd path as it meandered back and forth across the international boundary. IIRC, Mohammed posted the trip report on his website. At the time, we considered it only a moderate risk to walk back and forth across the border. However, in today's climate, I wouldn't chance it. If I ever felt motivated to do it again, I'd drive thru a formal border crossing and do the peak entirely from the Canadian side.

As for the Canadian approach being listed in the AMC handout - I've not seen it listed, but haven't read the handout in a few years. Keep in mind that for a rather long time the handout wasn't updated, and even getting a copy of it was very difficult.
 
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Okay, so on the Gene Daniell packet I did the "East Approach" which discusses the 'whack from White Cap over to the swath on Peak 3527. I used alternate (B&G?) driving directions due to the missing bridge.

It's not going over to the boundary, but coming back the same way that seems strange

I don't remember the Canadian approach even being listed as an option back when I started the 100.

Not sure when that was, but the AMC trips often went in from Canada in the 80s - one time they had an issue with a guy from Germany who had left his papers at home because after all he thought he was hiking in Maine

If you start from Canada, you can tell customs truthfully on your return that you were hiking along the border and probably crossed in and out of the US several times - just don't mention that you were all the way over to White Cap :)
 
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