5 Day CT River trip, Littleton, NH to Cornish, NH

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Jay H

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Pittsfield, MA
Met Paradox on a drizzling friday, just north of the Windsor-Cornish covered bridge at the dirt covered boat launch, for the long shuttle up to the Waterford Bridge Launch in Littleton. Interestingly enough, this was the only rain that Paradox and I would see together as the skies cleared up such that you'd have no idea it was raining in the morning by the time we launched late morning on friday from the Waterford Bridge. This launch is ended by the Moore Dam upriver and the Comerford Dam downriver which would be our first portage. Very much like a lake cause of the dam, the lack of boat traffic is enhanced because of the restrictive dams to anything that can not be portaged. The Comerford is like a 400ft drop with some crazy portage challenges including a 90deg turn to granite stairs (WTF???) and some really tall grass to bushwack through. It turns out to be the toughest portage of the trip, no thanks to the lack of maintenance and/or foresight of portaging loaded kayaks...

Anyway, a few trips to bring gear and then kayaks, and a lunch break, we get rewarded with the first current boost of the trip below the dam, just flowing while we enjoy the lush greens and tree covered shores. Seeing Ospreys, Cormorants and a bald eagle which sort of took off before either of us could get a shot. A nice boost until the next portage at McIndoe falls. This one presents us with some horrible wooden stairs that needs to be climbed (the first step is a doosy) followed by loose driftwood logs to attempt at twisting your ankle at the launch site. But at least there isn't that 400ft drop down a super steep grass trail.

First night is at the Dodge Falls campsite/leanto at the Ryegate Dam, home of a former paper mill. This is a UVLT campsite which is nicely shaded which has a tent platform and a framed leanto with a big firering. Paradox and I managed to scope it out on the way to the Waterford Bridge and cached water and firewood for the night's entertainment. Running into some folks headed to Fiddlehead island upstream, we enjoy a nice night at camp, complete with fire.

Day 2 has us moseying south towards Bugbee Landing in Bradford, VT but not before a food stop in Woodsville, NH close to Rt 302 where we stop by the cumerland farms to pick up lunch stuff and ice cream. Meanwhile Paradox had somebody steal food/drinks from the cooler while we were gone :( Glad to have brought the bike lock to lock the kayaks together. Fortunately, the moron left the expensive stuff alone. Paradox wouldn't notice it til the Bugbee campsite anyway. Woodsville is also close to where the Ammonoosuc River meets the CT and a possible giant whirlpool/eddy that forms. When we hit it the current was strong but not really whirlpool-quality, just wanted to spin you out if you couldn't read it. It is also called 'the Narrows' and is a really picturesque part of the CT river with little rocky shores/coves that one can choose to investigate.

Bugbee landing campsite was not so private as dodge falls as it's right behind the elementary school, but it nice in that it is close to 'downtown' where there is a Chinese restaurant, a pizza place, an ice cream store (The Dairy Bar) and also a liquor store and even has a Aubuchon hardware if needed. We would mingle with the local population of swimmers on the very hot weekend and some other interesting characters that entire night. But soon enough, day would come and we headed out.

Unfortunately, a few hours into sunday's paddle, Paradox mentioned his back issues and the desire to take out at Orford. Another beautiful day, could view cliffs and even Mt Moosilauke in the distance, but unfortunately, I said bye to Paradox at the new Orford launch site, not long after meeting Mr Burton who is a politician enjoying the new launchsite, right next to the Pastures Campground.

After saying bye to Paradox and a quick lunch break, I take off with the intent to meet Paradox later as he has my tent.
Going further south, the boat traffic increases, but still no other tourers that I can tell, just some daypaddlers and boaters.. The Hudson has so much more commercial boat traffic due to the lack of dams and a shipping lane, but the CT seems quite devoid of anybody! Not complaining, certainly makes for a quiet paddle. North Thetford boat launch came quickly, having had difficulty finding the Esther Salmi campsite, in hindsight, it looks like Bill Bridge may have just recently sold it to a person that doesn't want the public using it. I would find this out the next day, but I eventually found it after picking up my tent from Paradox in north thetford, had a nice evening at the Salmi campsite, taking a swim and experiencing my first rain/t-storm of the trip, just after making camp. After 30 minutes, it passed and I got out and made dinner. Exploring my surroundings and the railroad that follows the VT side of the CT river.

Monday was a long paddle that included the Wilder Dam portage so I got an early start, making my way past a bunch of boats and a more populated area as I get closer to White River junction and Lebanon, NH. Pass Dartmouth/Ledyard canoe club and Gilman island, I meet Paradox at the Wilder Dam around 11am. He has some stuff in his car that I need back and he helped me with the Wilder Dam portage. This one isn't too bad, except for the line of granite steps. He also had some ice cream/frozen yogurt that hit the spot!! Thanks again!

In less than an hour after passing the White River confluence and going under I-89, I hit Burnap's island and my last campsite of the trip. Only like 1pm, it would be a good day to relax and enjoy the sandy beach there. Ran into a group from Albany in three canoes to share the island with so we had some good chatter for the rest of the day. and a few freight trains on the VT side RR tracks.

Tuesday, a short 10 mile paddle to Cornish, including a stop to the Path of Life park to check out the shurbbery maze and the park in Windsor, got to my car and the Cornish launch around 12:30 to prepare for the trip back to Keene. Also portage around Sumner falls which was very very low but rocky.

My rec. here is to try to portage the Wilder Dam and Sumner falls in the afternoon when the dam release goes cause it is pretty shallow below sumner falls. I saw a lady in a plastic rec kayak have to walk her kayak through a shallow section. I managed to mosey over to the other side of the CT so I could run it but I hit bottom at least twice between Sumner and Cornish. At Cornish, there were rocky shoals all over the place, including one right in front of the launchsite....

Had a great trip, through some scenic upper valley sites, really enjoyed the paddle parts..

108 pics from the trip:

https://picasaweb.google.com/104827043392670889977/20120629CTRiverPaddle

Jay
 
Looks a lot nicer than I had thought it would - great paddle! Had no idea the water levels were that closely controlled though. I guess if Paradox has a bad back he will need to get rid of that sexy strip boat though... be glad to offer assistance in that regard.

amf
 
Very cool. Congratulations. Paradox probably faked the back pain so he could get in some re-sanding and re-varnishing ;):

MEMO0037.JPG
 
Well, I guess unlike the Hudson which is tidal to the Troy Locks, the current and water levels on the CT are so intertwined with the Dam and the Dam release schedule, it affects the launches as much as low tide affects the launches on the Hudson River. I spoke to a boater at the Bradford Launch which is on the Waits river, just about 200ft in from the CT river confluence who swore at the Waits Dam for not releasing enough water for him to get his boat out on the river. As a kayaker/canoer, it doesn't really affect us that much but I can see how that is an issue, especially since it is a manmade issue.

I presume the CT is tidal up to the southernmost Dam but never really checked the tides as much as the hudson. Instead, the power companies or third party resources have an automated phone number with a key code where you can get up to the minute release data.. In the end that the dams produce power for the area and the afternoons sees more electricity usage, I presume the general rule of thumb is that the water level will go real low overnight and in the morning as the dams are holding back water for the afternoon surge in need and the water levels will rise as the afternoon progresses... Current will be stronger below the dam and above the dam, it'll be pretty much lake-like.

If you look at Chip's linked photo from the Ryegate dam, since we camped there that was a photo the next morning. Although the ryegate dam isn't in use anymore (it was for a paper mill) the Comerford Dam and Mcindoe Falls dam upriver still control the flow at the ryegate dam and you can see how low the water is.

Jay
 
Great trip, sorry I had to "back" out early but I did enjoy myself. I have put some pictures up on Webshots.

Photos

and the GPS tracks and waypoints of each day with some of the same photos on Wikiloc

Friday, 6/29/12

Saturday, 6/30/12

Sunday, 7/1/12

In the photo that Chip posted above, it is evident that the water level had dropped by about 3 feet over the previous hour. That photo was taken at Dodge Falls on the morning of the second day.
 
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I think your webshots link is messed up though, you seem to have the "urls" in the actual link...

http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/583084787fSfiFs

The above link should work..

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haha, I like the elevation profiles cause it looks like we went off a cliff for those Damm dam portages!

I'll have to check out your photos at home when I am free!

Jay
 
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I saw your log book entries today at Harkdale :). Glad you had a good trip ( except for the back!).
Jay- I don't think Esther Salmi has been an "official" campsite for a while, but I could be wrong!
Happy Paddling!
 
I saw your log book entries today at Harkdale :). Glad you had a good trip ( except for the back!).
Jay- I don't think Esther Salmi has been an "official" campsite for a while, but I could be wrong!
Happy Paddling!

Hey Jason, the Esther Salmi campsite used to be just the "East Thetford campsite" and is in my CRWC "Source to Sea" guide. I don't recall the year of publication cause it's not in front of me right now. From what I've been told (and I haven't talked to the CRWC yet (and they haven't responded to my email)) is that Bill Bridges just sold it recently and the new owners don't want people to use it. Which might explain the "Posted" sign on it and no CRWC indication, yet it still has picnic tables, a firepit and a mailbox with notepad inside indicating that other people have used it before as a campsite..

I may have to send another email to CRWC...

Jay
 
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