Cardigan, the long way - 3/31/2007

vftt.org

Help Support vftt.org:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BIGEarl

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2005
Messages
2,103
Reaction score
293
Location
Nashua, NH
March 31, 2007: Cardigan


Trails: Back 80 Trail, Elwell Trail, Mowglis Trail, West Ridge Trail, Skyland Trail, Vistamont Trail, Cathedral Trail, Holt Trail


Cardigan came as a result of an alarming development – (in this case, alarm clock). Our “Plan A” for the day was to hike Franconia Ridge from Lincoln through Flume. Our “Plan B” was Passaconaway and Whiteface. Both required an early start. The intentions were to head north at 6:00am for a meeting at 8:00am with MadRiver at the northbound Basin lot, drop the car, and he would drive us to the OBP/Falling Waters trailhead lot for our hike. At 6:30am Jennifer and I were on the phone discussing the available options. We both wanted a hike and realized our first choices slept late. The chosen fallback was Cardigan. Earlier we hiked Cardigan with Jennifer’s brother and had a very enjoyable day. That day was overcast and we were unable to enjoy the views. Today was clear and warm. Plus, we knew there were a number of other trail choices on Cardigan and decided to see some new terrain. Everything worked out great!

Starting a hike at 10:30am is a little late for both of us but that’s the hand we were dealt. After arriving at the AMC Cardigan Lodge we quickly geared-up and headed for the trails. We decided to take the “long way” to Cardigan’s summit, and beyond.

The first section of the day’s hike was spent on the Back 80 Trail. This is an easy walk in the woods with a very mild elevation gain, enjoying great spring conditions. There were patches of snow and ice, easily passed, and very little mud. We followed the Back 80 Trail from the Holt Trail to the junction with the Elwell Trail. Evidently, this is not a particularly popular trail in the winter. We saw no evidence of traffic, except for some moose and turkey tracks. There are a couple ski trail crossings where old ski tracks were visible. The Back 80 Trail passes through some large sections of hardwood with really nice views. Bright sun, warm temperatures, and no wind made for a pleasant start to the hike.

When we reached the Elwell Trail the work started. The trail starts to climb at a pretty good rate and a significant amount of ice was encountered. We were able to work around it without added traction aids. The thought of pulling out the Stabilicers came up once but we continued barebooting. The amount of moose activity in the area seemed to suggest this is a place where they yarded up for the winter. Lot’s of postholes for the next 1.5 to 2 miles. Some were very fresh and seemed to indicate we were moving some animals around though we never actually saw any. We also put up two grouse soon after changing to the Mowglis Trail.

The Moglis Trail is a moderate climb passing by the Crag Shelter. We made a quick rest stop at the shelter and enjoyed a snack. Above the Crag Shelter we started to encounter more sections of open ledge. There were a number of really nice viewing locations to the north and east. As we came closer to Firescrew the ledge areas became more open and exposed. Still there was no wind and the conditions were great. Also, at Firescrew we came upon the first human tracks of the day. The views were terrific and we got quite a few pictures of Kinsman Ridge, Franconia Ridge, the Bonds, The Presidentials, and more. After a few minutes we headed off for the Cardigan tower.

Roughly fifty yards below the tower we encountered a couple hikers and their dog in a sheltered place enjoying the day. We exchanged greetings and continued to the tower for some refreshments, a brief rest, and more pictures. Soon after reaching the tower, the wind started to come up and we decided to continue on our way.

Our next target was Rimrock. A short distance below the summit we started to encounter more ice, we were getting a little tired, and Jennifer decided to pull out her Stabilicers. We headed off on the West Ridge Trail, across Cliff’s Bridge, and right past the turn for the Skyland Trail. A few hundred yards after missing the turn we came upon another hiker taking a brief rest and asked if he knew where the Skyland Trail Junction was. He explained we missed it back near the bridge. So, back up the trail we hiked. It turned out to be a very well marked trail junction where we must have both been completely focused on the footing and not the surroundings. Back on track we were off for Rimrock. This trail had some evidence of traffic, but nothing recent. We made our way to Rimrock and found more terrific views. Just before stepping into the open area of Rimrock I nearly went down due to the ice and started seriously thinking about my Stabilicers. Soon after leaving Rimrock I pulled them out.

Next target, Orange Mountain (aka Mount Gilman). We continued on the Skyland Trail for the one mile hike to Orange Mountain. This section had a good amount of snow with a crust that generally supported us well. There were only a couple occasions where it gave way. It was getting to be late in the afternoon. We arrived at the summit, grabbed a few quick pictures and continued on our way out via the Vistamont Trail.

We followed the Vistamont Trail to Grand Junction passing the Clark Trail along the way. There were a few places on this trail where I would have preferred crampons, but surprisingly, the Stabilicers did the job. We managed to get down from Orange Mountain without any real problems – just a couple tricky places, and made it to Grand Junction by late afternoon. From here we headed off on the Holt Trail back to the Cardigan Lodge, and closed the loop.

Next stop, Dunkin Donuts in Bristol for Jennifer’s post-hike coffee.


BIGEarl's Pictures

:)
 
Last edited:
Great pics! I've wondered what the views from Gilman are like. I was actually supposed to hit that peak a couple weeks ago but we decided to shorten the day and just do Cardigan instead.

You need to get down to Cannan and try out that sub! But only after a hike....I'm pretty sure the caloric intake would overwhelm you to death. :D

grouseking
 
Much better views than when I was there a week and a half ago! I'm not quite sure what it is, but I prefer Cardigan to Monadnock/Kearsarge.
 
rocket21 said:
Much better views than when I was there a week and a half ago! I'm not quite sure what it is, but I prefer Cardigan to Monadnock/Kearsarge.


Though I've never been up Kearsarge, I very much prefer Cardigan to Monadnock because of what you look at for views. The times I have hiked Monadnock it has been hazy, and the amount of people that can clutter the summit is astounding. summit clutter Although, the Pumpelly Ridge trail is a great hike till you reach the actual summit.

As for Kearsarge, I've seen a bunch of cell towers in pics, so I've avoided the mtn so far....although I almost took a trip there this weekend. Bottom line, I prefer Cardigan hands down.

grouseking
 
The towers on Kearsarge (I think there were 2-3 com towers and one fire tower) don't detract too much when you're up there. The top 100-200 vertical feet, depending upon where you are, are exposed, and the views are good, but again it just doesn't quite compare to Cardigan in my opinion...I think it has to do with a) the pointy peak on Cardigan and b) Cardigan being a few miles closer to the Whites.
 
Need a link to the meatball sub

Nice TR Earl! We'll be going up to Cardigan NH Chapter trail work weekend May 11-13. You and Jenn covered a lot of ground. Would be nice to hear if you encountered any areas with serious blowdowns. Don't expect you had much up on the ridge walk but the lower trails would be good to hear.

I forget where Grouseking says he gets the mammoth meatball subs. Is it a subshop in Bristol? Grouseking should add link to it on his hiking web page. :rolleyes:
 
Awesome report!

For some reason Cardigan has always been my favorite. I always tended to hike from the state park side and the areas near West Ridge Tr. I started to feel a draw to explore the northern uplands so checked out the old Orange Cove Tr early this past winter. There is a major newer harvest operation with significant upgrade to the road which is the Orange Cove Tr, and I could have easily drove up to nearer the Elwell jct, but was nervous about the potential rd condition and blocking log trucks (turned out no activity). I parked just within the state boundary instead and just outside the gate, which I was not sure would stay open.

What a wonderful area of this mountain with broad uplands and ridges and ponds. The entire area is incredibly rich with interesting spots of incredible variety, Welton Falls, Sculptured Rocks, Plummer Ledge, Cilley's Cave, Hanging Rock, Grotto Cave.....etc. You could spend so much time exploring this mountain and it's uplands.

P.S. Kearsage is going to get another option to explore uplands. Local scout troop has roughed a new trail in cooperation w/ NH Trails Bureau from Winslow side. I scouted it early last winter and was impressed by the beauty of the area traversed, though the middle section may be a bit tough (especially during winters). It is not oficially open so it would not be appropriate for me to elaborate. Stay tuned.
 
Last edited:
Jazzbo said:
Nice TR Earl! We'll be going up to Cardigan NH Chapter trail work weekend May 11-13. You and Jenn covered a lot of ground. Would be nice to hear if you encountered any areas with serious blowdowns. Don't expect you had much up on the ridge walk but the lower trails would be good to hear.

I forget where Grouseking says he gets the mammoth meatball subs. Is it a subshop in Bristol? Grouseking should add link to it on his hiking web page. :rolleyes:

I think there were one or two blowdowns on the West Ridge trail if I recall (before the bridge). Nothing major though.
 
Jazzbo said:
Nice TR Earl! We'll be going up to Cardigan NH Chapter trail work weekend May 11-13. You and Jenn covered a lot of ground. Would be nice to hear if you encountered any areas with serious blowdowns. Don't expect you had much up on the ridge walk but the lower trails would be good to hear.

I forget where Grouseking says he gets the mammoth meatball subs. Is it a subshop in Bristol? Grouseking should add link to it on his hiking web page. :rolleyes:


Thanks guys......


Jazzbo,

According to the AMC Southern New Hampshire Trail Guide and map the loop is 9.5 miles with 2,155 feet elevation gain. We hiked at a moderate pace and tried to enjoy the day and the beautiful area. One of the nice things about hiking Cardigan is there are many bail-out points along the way. We could have cut the hike short at Firescrew, Cardigan summit, and a number of other places along the way.

We started out from the AMC Cardigan Lodge just after 10:30am and returned at just before 7:00pm, a very pleasant ~8.5 hour hike.

I’ve been trying to remember if there were any blowdowns that we had to climb over or around. I honestly don’t recall any. There is a section of the Back 80 Trail that diverges from the property boundary markers to the northeast in an effort to pass around a swamp – beaver bog .6 miles prior to the Elwell Trail. Since the area is still frozen we simply went straight across the swamp and re-joined the trail on the northwest side. Perhaps there are blowdowns in the section that bypasses the swamp. North of Firescrew the trail was in tough shape with moose postholes, but some warm weather will resolve that issue. Between Rimrock and Orange Mountain we also found more moose postholes.

From what we saw your trail clean-up work will be light duty this year.

Thanks to Grouseking……

The sub shop is down there in the picture. The town in the picture is not Bristol. Head west. According to a note I received from Grouseking, it is a place called Lockhaven in Canaan. Look for a red building on the south side of route 4.

Bon Appetit :D


Earl

:)
 
Jazzbo,

You seem to know the Cardigan area very well…..

There was another item of interest from the hike that I've been thinking about. Approximately .6 miles before reaching the Elwell Trail, the Back 80 Trail bypasses a swamp/beaver bog by heading around the northeast side. The property boundary markers continue straight across. If you follow the boundary markers across the swamp you will rejoin the Back 80 Trail on the northwest side of the swamp. You will also nearly walk across the top of a beaver dam.

At the area of the dam that is built across the small stream, the dam has been dismantled leaving quite a hole. This is clearly an intentional move. I had the impression this sort of behavior was frowned upon by the various state authorities that have jurisdiction in wildlife management matters, and perhaps illegal with stiff consequences.

Do you have any guess how this may have happened? Is it possible the AMC sent a crew in there to attack the dam in an effort to limit area flooding?

I guess it’s possible the Fish & Game folks were called in and did the work.

:confused:
 
Earl, I thought I saw you! I was in a training sitting in the Cardigan Lodge living room when I thought I saw you poke your head in and look around quickly, before heading back out. Wasn't Saturday gorgeous? Glad you had a great hike.

-Katie
 
Earl

I've only been out as far as the beaver pond area on the Back 80 Trail. I was out there last August with my wife Alli who has weak ankles and that's as far we got. I remember seeing all sorts of signs of high water from last spring's floods. Don't know if maybe some of the beaver dams broke at that time and they didn't re-build or what. I've been involved with trail work there for 2 years now and never heard anything about tampering with beaver dams and I sit in on planning meetings.

Ray
 
Beaver Ponds on Back 80

The Beaver Ponds on the USGS topo are NOT the Beaver Ponds you encountered recently, they have been abandoned for some time and are a mostly grassy meadow area now. There has been at least one relo to avoid the more recent beaver activity. Last time I was out there (last fall) it looked as though the beavers had eaten themselves out of food and abandoned the area. In that case slighting the dam wouldn't be a bad idea.

there are unmarked side trails off the Mowglis which run to Cilley's Cave and Hanging Rocks for a little bit more unusual scenery. Just as an addendum to bigearl's jaunt, there are trails into Cardigan from both Welton falls, Scultured Rocks and Newfound Lake if the relatively short trip from the Lodge to the summit fails to interest you.
 
Earl:

Great photos. I've heard of Cardigan so many times and still haven't climbed it. I guess I should get out and do it. :rolleyes: Ever since I've had the 4k bug those were all I was concerned about climbing, but your photos are impressive and all I thought about was my numerous climbs up Ascutney and how satisfying they were. Thanks to your report and pics I've added this to my list of must-do climbs for the non-mudseason spring hiking season.
 
bill bowden said:
.......

there are unmarked side trails off the Mowglis which run to Cilley's Cave and Hanging Rocks for a little bit more unusual scenery. Just as an addendum to bigearl's jaunt, there are trails into Cardigan from both Welton falls, Scultured Rocks and Newfound Lake if the relatively short trip from the Lodge to the summit fails to interest you.


Thanks Bill. I believe there is much more to explore in the area and you have highlighted some of the targets. Multiple visits are most likely needed - that's a good thing. There are a few more pictures that I wished I had taken to the north and northwest (more reason to go back). Back to the map to plan my next visit.

Plus, according to grouseking there's a monster meatball sub with my name on it in the local area.



dirt said:
Earl:

Great photos. I've heard of Cardigan so many times and still haven't climbed it. I guess I should get out and do it. :rolleyes: Ever since I've had the 4k bug those were all I was concerned about climbing, but your photos are impressive and all I thought about was my numerous climbs up Ascutney and how satisfying they were. Thanks to your report and pics I've added this to my list of must-do climbs for the non-mudseason spring hiking season.


Dirt, Thanks for your comments.

The views were great! The pictures are shown in a reduced size while running a slideshow. If you really want to wander around in the shots display them “Full Size”. After selecting the Full Size option you’ll need to click on the image to get the actual size and not screen size. Then, you can pan within the image to see much better detail. Have fun.

From last week's hike I have the impression the mud season won't be all that bad at least on and around Cardigan. The Backcountry Weather and Trail Conditions report is updated daily (I think) by the AMC and available on their web site as well as the Mount Washington Observatory weather page. It offers a good early snapshot to the current weather and trail conditions. I partially based my decisions on hiking gear for the hike on this report. Everything worked out well. I assume they will advise (to the best of their ability) if muddy conditions exist.

Enjoy the hike.

Earl
 
Last edited:
Top