Everest Madness

[blacklab2020]

Anyone see this link yet?

http://edition.cnn.com/2007/WORLD/asiapcf/08/22/everest.climbing.reut/index.html

 

[sapblatt]

Late April and early May have been the seasons for good reason - the best (all things are relative) weather...there is a short window in September too I believe. This seems really crazy - people are going to be getting into big messes (possibly the last mess of their lives), but I would imagine (or at least hope) that anyone who was going to attempt this would know what they are getting into and be aware of the climate/weather seasons...

 

[eddogg12]

Good article, although "Winter Attempts - 50% off Sale" Might not be the greatest tatic for obvious reasons. ....but on a positive note, it may push and force the Mountaineering world, to develop new techniques and products to accomodate?????

 

[ColdRiverRun]

Sweet, I needed Everest for my winter "list". It doesn't even look steep from that view. Except on the 8k ft drop spot.

 

[cbcbd]

I don't know if we'll be seeing any increase in guiding companies taking people up in the winter. The cost for clients might even even out anyway since costs would probably go up in winter - more supplies for more days waiting out weather, more porters, great increase in risk for the guides, etc...
And all of that for a very low success rate? Who would pay for that?

So will the average weekend mountaineer be more apt to go there in the winter because it's cheaper? Probably not. And if they do then I'll just chalk that up to natural selection.

I would care to guess that most top-of-their-game mountaineers know that winter and the Himalayan 8K peaks is a suicide mission. Jean-Christophe Lafaille is an example of an excellent climber and accomplished 8K mountaineer who ventured out in the winter and well, died (ok, he was solo, but still).

 

[Chip]

How far does that fee get you ? Is that just for summit attempts ? If it's for Base Camp then there might be a bump in "tourism" during the off seasons, people who don't plan to try to summit.

 

[eddogg12]

CBCBD brings up a good point, would you want to book with a company that has a low-success rate due to multiple failed winter attempts? In addition, I would assume the last thing a person with the credentials, and experience to attempt a winter bid on Everest is worrying about is saving a few grand.

 

[chipc]

I wonder if this change will alter the success/death rate???

http://www.nytimes.com/2007/08/21/science/21obclim.html?ref=science

 

[cbcbd]

I would assume the last thing a person with the credentials, and experience to attempt a winter bid on Everest is worrying about is saving a few grand.

Good point - if you're a top caliber climber who knows they have what it takes for a winter ascent of an 8Ker, you'll find a way to pay for it through sponsors/donations/fundraisers/etc.

 

[giggy]

nepal has way to make money and put food on the table - why wouldn't they do this? Aren't most destinations cheaper off season? people that go to everest buy food and supplies in nepal, hire porters, etc.. = cash in local economy - some climbers is better than no climbers. sounds like marketing 101 by nepal.

This is nepal slashing fees for permit, not the guides. For example, the US park service charges 35 bucks to climb Rainier - Guides charge about $1,000 to guide you up it.

I never bought into this hype that there are people that shouldn't be there. Like everywhere - there are people like that - and your always going to find that there, rainier, mt washington, denali, mt zealand, etc.. But - there isn't going to be a flux of day hikers attempting everest in winter.

I say - why not, there is a demand. Probably give some climber who is qualified a shot he/she might not have had otherwise.

I might say denali/alaskan peaks would be worse in winter and people do that.

 

[David Metsky]

Good point - if you're a top caliber climber who knows they have what it takes for a winter ascent of an 8Ker, you'll find a way to pay for it through sponsors/donations/fundraisers/etc.

Not true, necessarily. Money isn't easy to come by for climbers, they often take shortcuts and cut corners any way they can. Fundraising is a job and talent, and not all climbers are good at it.

The low success rate thing is a double edged sword. You could be lucky and get some successes by pushing the odds. But if you're conservative and always turn around at your designated time, if the forecast is bad, etc, your clients will survive but fewer will summit. Since climbers with summit fever tend to just focus on the success rate and not the safety aspect when looking for guides, guide services are rewarded by pushing the odds and hoping for the best.

 

[spaddock]

Since climbers with summit fever tend to just focus on the success rate and not the safety aspect when looking for guides, guide services are rewarded by pushing the odds and hoping for the best.

Success rates are a consideration, but so are mortality rates.


-Shayne

 

[David Metsky]

Success rates are a consideration, but so are mortality rates.

Not if you think that they don't apply to you.