Fatality on Mt. Guyot

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I think in all these incidents there are 2 things commonly trotted out, particularly on social media, that are incorrect:

1) That when a person is very experienced they do not make bad decisions.
2) That our freedom to do whatever we want with our lives in some way means we do not make bad decisions because we're free to do what we want.

Your level of experience and freedom to do what you want to do does not automatically make you infallible and just a victim of bad luck. Everyone can make bad decisions and do stupid stuff. And sometimes that stuff is fatal. If you watch enough mountaineering documentaries you'll find countless examples of extraordinarily fit and experienced climbers getting killed because of bad decisions based on emotions - pride, guilt, summit fever, money spent on the trip, etc. Many local examples of this right here in the Whites over the years. Everyone is quick to dismiss this obvious fact because they were very experienced, had the best gear, blah, blah, blah. The freedom to make a bad decision does not alter the fact of a bad decision.

I remember on Facebook after the Kate Mastrova incident arguing with someone on Facebook about her assertion specifically that Kate was free to do what she wanted and did not make any mistakes on her hike. I asked her if she made no mistakes then it must have been Kate's plan to die on her hike and she kept going back to it being her right to do what she wanted and live her life and she did nothing wrong. OK. Agree to disagree I guess....
 
How do you have a "well equipped" Winter pack under 30-35 lbs if you have all the things you're "supposed" to have? I'm obviously doing something wrong. Snowshoes, crampons and spikes, a quilt or sleeping bag of some sort, some sort of shelter, a cold weather capable stove, at least 2L of water, all your clothes, goggles and face gear, food and a pack that can comfortably carry all of it? Someone needs to email me their gear list. My Winter pack is rarely under 35 lbs unless I am leaving stuff behind.
 
IMHO, you do not.

I remember at one point being informed by a VFTT member that trail runners were a special breed with more special skills than a typical hiker so they did not need as much gear as us hikers ;) I have a core of gear I always carry in winter and add dependent on conditions and exposure. When I do a short local hike when the forecast is good and there is likelihood of other hikers on the trail I may not add gear but I rarely remove any. One thing I would bring for a more exposed remote trail is a liquid fueled stove, insulation does not make heat, it just reduces the rate its lost, a stove adds core heat to the equation. Add in some warm jello and it is what S&R most likely will do when they rescue someone. A pound of fuel or a pound of extra insulation, I will pick the fuel.
 
How do you have a "well equipped" Winter pack under 30-35 lbs if you have all the things you're "supposed" to have? I'm obviously doing something wrong. Snowshoes, crampons and spikes, a quilt or sleeping bag of some sort, some sort of shelter, a cold weather capable stove, at least 2L of water, all your clothes, goggles and face gear, food and a pack that can comfortably carry all of it? Someone needs to email me their gear list. My Winter pack is rarely under 35 lbs unless I am leaving stuff behind.
Why would you set a weight limit instead of a required gear list? I just weighed the pack I packed for tomorrow‘s hike in temps forecast to be around 10F and winds 15-30mph. 38.4lb, with the following gear:

GG Nimbus Trace Access 70
FF Ibis long 0F bag in 18l GG eVent Sil Compression Drysack
Xtherm MAX w/S2S Aeros premium pillow
Marmot Greenland down jacket in S2S 6l ultra-sil compression sack
WM Flash down booties, WM Flight down pants, Stoic midweight merino blend baselayer pants, and Stoic heavyweight merino blend top in S2S 10l ultra-sil compression sack
Whisperlite w/11oz fuel bottle
Soto 1l aluminum pot
1 day food (2x 2 servings rice, 2 sausages, 4 packs instant oatmeal, 3x 1 cup cocoa powder, Whisperlite tool spoon)
Marmot Hammer 2P tent w/vestibule
12 military aluminum tent stakes
EMS Feather Pack hooded down jacket
Darn Tough OTC mountaineering socks
Fairly comprehensive first aid kit
Emergency bivy & handwarmers
TP
EMS Ascent Summit gloves
Ganka Expedition mittens w/GI trigger finger mitten liners
Electronics (headlamp, extra batteries, Nitecore Summit 20000mAh, cables)
Bag w/50’ 3mm cord, various straps, leash to clip tent to pack for setting up in wind
MSR Responder shovel
OR Ferrosi hooded
1l thermos of cocoa

And without unpacking it to verify, I’m almost certain that’s everything. Snowshoes are worn from the start, no need for crampons or spikes since I’ll be off-trail in 2+ feet of snow the entire time.

Worn:
GI silkweight polypro bottoms
EMS TechWick SS top
EMS merino wool shirt
Smartwool OTC mountaineering socks
EMS Pinnacle softshell pants
Marmot Olden Polartec hoodie
EMS Ascent Summit gloves
1l water inside jacket
OR Crocodiles
Boots (either Sorel Conquest, Oboz Bridger 8”, or Oboz Bridger 10”)
Stuff in pockets (fleece hat, balaclava, phone, Leatherman, lighter, chapstick, protein bars, headlamp, compass)
 
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Why would you set a weight limit instead of a required gear list? I just weighed the pack I packed for tomorrow‘s hike in temps forecast to be around 10F and winds 15-30mph. 38.4lb, with the following gear:

GG Nimbus Trace Access 70
FF Ibis long 0F bag in 18l GG eVent Sil Compression Drysack
Xtherm MAX w/S2S Aeros premium pillow
Marmot Greenland down jacket in S2S 6l ultra-sil compression sack
WM Flash down booties, WM Flight down pants, Stoic midweight merino blend baselayer pants, and Stoic heavyweight merino blend top in S2S 10l ultra-sil compression sack
Whisperlite w/11oz fuel bottle
Soto 1l aluminum pot
1 day food (2x 2 servings rice, 2 sausages, 4 packs instant oatmeal, 3x 1 cup cocoa powder, Whisperlite tool spoon)
Marmot Hammer 2P tent w/vestibule
12 military aluminum tent stakes
EMS Feather Pack hooded down jacket
Darn Tough OTC mountaineering socks
Fairly comprehensive first aid kit
Emergency bivy & handwarmers
TP
EMS Ascent Summit gloves
Ganka Expedition mittens w/GI trigger finger mitten liners
Electronics (headlamp, extra batteries, Nitecore Summit 20000mAh, cables)
Bag w/50’ 3mm cord, various straps, leash to clip tent to pack for setting up in wind
MSR Responder shovel
OR Ferrosi hooded
1l thermos of cocoa

And without unpacking it to verify, I’m almost certain that’s everything. Snowshoes are worn from the start, no need for crampons or spikes since I’ll be off-trail in 2+ feet of snow the entire time.

Worn:
GI silkweight polypro bottoms
EMS TechWick SS top
EMS merino wool shirt
Smartwool OTC mountaineering socks
EMS Pinnacle softshell pants
Marmot Olden Polartec hoodie
EMS Ascent Summit gloves
1l water inside jacket
OR Crocodiles
Boots (either Sorel Conquest, Oboz Bridger 8”, or Oboz Bridger 10”)
Stuff in pockets (fleece hat, balaclava, phone, Leatherman, lighter, chapstick, protein bars, headlamp, compass)
Holy shit, that's for a day hike? Clearly there is more than one way to decide what to bring on a winter climb and there are some here that decide to carry, well just about everything. I can assure you this, my pack is lighter than at least two people here by far. At what point does bringing to much come into play? If you are above treeline and a quick moving storm is about to overtake you, can you half jog down a few miles to beat the storm carrying 40 lbs. of gear? Hey to each his own, I have 40+ winters under my belt, I'll stick with my gear list, it's well under 30 lbs.
 
Why would you set a weight limit instead of a required gear list? I just weighed the pack I packed for tomorrow‘s hike in temps forecast to be around 10F and winds 15-30mph. 38.4lb, with the following gear:

GG Nimbus Trace Access 70
FF Ibis long 0F bag in 18l GG eVent Sil Compression Drysack
Xtherm MAX w/S2S Aeros premium pillow
Marmot Greenland down jacket in S2S 6l ultra-sil compression sack
WM Flash down booties, WM Flight down pants, Stoic midweight merino blend baselayer pants, and Stoic heavyweight merino blend top in S2S 10l ultra-sil compression sack
Whisperlite w/11oz fuel bottle
Soto 1l aluminum pot
1 day food (2x 2 servings rice, 2 sausages, 4 packs instant oatmeal, 3x 1 cup cocoa powder, Whisperlite tool spoon)
Marmot Hammer 2P tent w/vestibule
12 military aluminum tent stakes
EMS Feather Pack hooded down jacket
Darn Tough OTC mountaineering socks
Fairly comprehensive first aid kit
Emergency bivy & handwarmers
TP
EMS Ascent Summit gloves
Ganka Expedition mittens w/GI trigger finger mitten liners
Electronics (headlamp, extra batteries, Nitecore Summit 20000mAh, cables)
Bag w/50’ 3mm cord, various straps, leash to clip tent to pack for setting up in wind
MSR Responder shovel
OR Ferrosi hooded
1l thermos of cocoa

And without unpacking it to verify, I’m almost certain that’s everything. Snowshoes are worn from the start, no need for crampons or spikes since I’ll be off-trail in 2+ feet of snow the entire time.

Worn:
GI silkweight polypro bottoms
EMS TechWick SS top
EMS merino wool shirt
Smartwool OTC mountaineering socks
EMS Pinnacle softshell pants
Marmot Olden Polartec hoodie
EMS Ascent Summit gloves
1l water inside jacket
OR Crocodiles
Boots (either Sorel Conquest, Oboz Bridger 8”, or Oboz Bridger 10”)
Stuff in pockets (fleece hat, balaclava, phone, Leatherman, lighter, chapstick, protein bars, headlamp, compass)

I don't set a weight limit. I pack what is required and it never seems to be less than 33-35 lbs. You're making my point with your list and weight. When people say their Winter pack is 20 lbs or 25 lbs I am suspicious about what is in it. That is what I am questioning.
 
Holy shit, that's for a day hike? Clearly there is more than one way to decide what to bring on a winter climb and there are some here that decide to carry, well just about everything. I can assure you this, my pack is lighter than at least two people here by far. At what point does bringing to much come into play? If you are above treeline and a quick moving storm is about to overtake you, can you half jog down a few miles to beat the storm carrying 40 lbs. of gear? Hey to each his own, I have 40+ winters under my belt, I'll stick with my gear list, it's well under 30 lbs.
That’s my winter day pack, but I’m hiking by myself and off-trail in a very remote area where the closest contact I’m likely to have with other people is hearing snowmobiles in the distance. In the 5 years I’ve lived in Jackman I haven’t seen a single other person while hiking in winter. Sometimes I just decide to stay out overnight instead of heading back to my vehicle so I have comfort items as well. There’s no sense of staying out just to stay in the tent all night instead of enjoying the night sky.

I’m sure that if I took everything out but the bare essentials for survival I could get it below 30lb, but with my knee problems (mobility, not strength) I’m not half-jogging or even quarter-jogging anywhere so the extra weight isn’t making me any slower than I already am. If I was above treeline and had to go a few miles to avoid being caught in a fast-moving storm I think my time and energy would be better spent setting up the tent and digging in as much as possible. There’s nothing like the Presidentials or Franconia Ridge within 30-ish miles, though, and I don’t have any plans (yet) to be on the nearest ones in winter. Maybe after I get my knees fixed. But basically, if the wind changes direction I start thinking about getting lower or completely off the mountain.
 
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That’s my winter day pack, but I’m hiking by myself and off-trail in a very remote area where the closest contact I’m likely to have with other people is hearing snowmobiles in the distance. In the 5 years I’ve lived in Jackman I haven’t seen a single other person while hiking in winter. Sometimes I just decide to stay out overnight instead of heading back to my vehicle so I have comfort items as well. There’s no sense of staying out just to stay in the tent all night instead of enjoying the night sky.

I’m sure that if I took everything out but the bare essentials for survival I could get it below 30lb, but with my knee problems (mobility, not strength) I’m not half-jogging or even quarter-jogging anywhere so the extra weight isn’t making me any slower than I already am. If I was above treeline and had to go a few miles to avoid being caught in a fast-moving storm I think my time and energy would be better spent setting up the tent and digging in as much as possible. There’s nothing like the Presidentials or Franconia Ridge within 30-ish miles, though, and I don’t have any plans (yet) to be on the nearest ones in winter. Maybe after I get my knees fixed. But basically, if the wind changes direction I start thinking about getting lower or completely off the mountain.
Don't get me wrong, if that's what you bring, good for you, to each his own. Everyone has their own ideas and it's important to be comfortable with what YOU bring. I do semi jog here and there, been trying to up my speed and I am enjoying the freedom of moving fast. It's an interesting discussion about gear and what exactly makes a good "kit".
 
I don't set a weight limit. I pack what is required and it never seems to be less than 33-35 lbs. You're making my point with your list and weight. When people say their Winter pack is 20 lbs or 25 lbs I am suspicious about what is in it. That is what I am questioning.
When I first started getting back into hiking I carried a pack lighter than that up Chocorua with a friend on a frigid March day. It was around -15F without wind chill, -40ish with, and as I did more hiking after that I realized how foolish it had been. I basically had an extra midlayer top, a fleece and a light down jacket (Marmot Odin), a rain jacket, extra gloves, first aid kit, and a few snack bars. We didn’t feel cold while hiking, but when we got back to my vehicle we just couldn’t warm up. Even after eating about 5000 calories each at the Yankee Smokehouse it took us a long time to get warm - I dropped him off at his house in Sanford then headed to my place in Windham ME and it took most of the drive to get warm. My philosophy now is that if I die on a mountain it’s not going to be from hypothermia or exposure!
 
Since we're sharing, here's my typical winter daypack. Certainly nothing like @NH2112 but this would be for your standard NH48 ascent, not deep backcountry outings.


Our day pack contents are very similar, and I also agree on higher peaks, I would add a few things, but most of my hikes on the 52wav, my pack is about like yours. I do use a slightly bigger pack, the Mystery Ranch scree 32L, it has great pockets and daisy chains down the back that I love clipping things too. Nice video.
 
Really depends on what you’re doing. For Pierce or Tecumseh, for example, you certainly don’t need what you’d want for something like Adams. Years ago I used to take a lot of stuff and it really slowed me down and frankly was a lot worse for me personally. As others have said, the ability to move quickly can be as important as the ability to hunker down and wait it out. Everyone has their balance. I go a lot lighter now and it works much better for me. Reminds me of that scene from the Eiger Sanction:

Hemlock: Just one thing. You know, your route doesn't allow for retreat in case we're blocked from above.​

Freytag: Well, I consider it self-defeating to plan in terms of retreat.​

Hemlock: I consider it stupid not to.​

 
Don't get me wrong, if that's what you bring, good for you, to each his own. Everyone has their own ideas and it's important to be comfortable with what YOU bring. I do semi jog here and there, been trying to up my speed and I am enjoying the freedom of moving fast. It's an interesting discussion about gear and what exactly makes a good "kit".
It is a good discussion. I think objectively everyone on here knows what you need in order to survive an unplanned night in the Whites. If we ignored weight and convenience our Winter overnight lists would be pretty similar I expect. But of course we all make trade offs base on probabilities of events happening and have our own comfort level with what we can do without if those events happen. Most of us our comfortable with a less than ideal set up.

Me personally, I never have a sleeping bag. I prefer to have down pants and a second down jacket I have which is made for wildly cold weather (it has a fill weight comparable to many sleeping bags). I like having the option of being heavily insulated AND having the ability to be mobile with that insulation if I'm not injured. And if I am injured I've used these clothing items inside my OR Gore Tex Bivy Bag and know I'll survive a cold night. If the worst case scenario for the weather exceeds what I know I've done in this set up then I am staying home.

And a stove is another item I never carried (although I have been bringing it sometimes of late). For the stove I feel if the weather is really bad it will likely be difficult or impossible to use it anyway, I may get too cold stopping for the length of time I need to use it for, or if I'm injured I might not be able to operate it anyway. So I opt for more easily consumable food items versus a stove. Quite the opposite, I usually bring the stove in good weather to enjoy a coffee, hot chocolate or maybe a hot meal in a great spot with a view instead of bland Winter snacks.

On the other end of the spectrum, I always have spikes, crampons and snowshoes and most times an ice axe. I put a premium on safe travel and don't want to be screwing around with the wrong tools for the job because of the weight penalty. Being able to travel safely and securely in any conditions is a top priority for me.

And I generally have a lot more water than most people in Winter. 3L in OR insulated coozies is pretty normal for me although lately I've been going with 2L as my conditioning has improved (well up until this Winter anyway). I just find it easier to carry the water versus taking less and having a stove to melt snow for the reason I mentioned above.

Last but not least I usually go overboard on lighting. Usually have 2 headlamps with back up batteries and a small battery bank on me. Goes back to my priority of being able to travel safely in any conditions.

Those are my rationalizations for taking less than the perfect set up.
 
Ignoring or not knowing mother nature well seems to be a big factor in many so called expierenced hikers deaths in the winter. Take the Monadnock park ranger Kenneth R. Holmes , then Kate's death on Monroe,Emily last season, now this and many more before and they'll be more to come. One thing they all had in common was I believe thinking they are such great hikers and will beat the weather out or can handle it up there and can travel light cause I'm in good shape etc. Not to mention obession with the "list's" they want to bang out.
For the record, Kate Matrosova died in the col between Madison and Adams, not on Monroe. But yes, I agree that there are similarities between her death and that of Mr Roma. Although it was also a winter fatality, I think Emily's death on Lafayette is in another category. She was not experienced enough to know what she was getting into and was unprepared for the severe weather that befell her.

I have the greatest respect for Mr Roma's significant hiking accomplishments but attempting a Pemi Loop in these conditions was not a wise decision for anyone at any skill level or resume and he should have been well aware of that fact. I view his death and that of Kate as Greek tragedies borne of hubris. There are limits to what we can do, and we are not supermen or women.
 
It took a long time to reach the hiker. If they had his coordinates from 911 call why couldn't they send him a "warming" pack by drone? Oh, wait, drones are not quite there yet for SAR missions. Am I missing anything?
 
Last thing I knew the helicopter based drones had the same weather limitations as a manned helicopter that made three attempts. The commercial drones I have seen (admittedly not a big selection) tend to be rated for 20 MPH max winds. My guess is a helicopter with a skilled pilot probably has a wider operating range?
 
It is a good discussion. I think objectively everyone on here knows what you need in order to survive an unplanned night in the Whites. If we ignored weight and convenience our Winter overnight lists would be pretty similar I expect. But of course we all make trade offs base on probabilities of events happening and have our own comfort level with what we can do without if those events happen. Most of us our comfortable with a less than ideal set up.

Me personally, I never have a sleeping bag. I prefer to have down pants and a second down jacket I have which is made for wildly cold weather (it has a fill weight comparable to many sleeping bags). I like having the option of being heavily insulated AND having the ability to be mobile with that insulation if I'm not injured. And if I am injured I've used these clothing items inside my OR Gore Tex Bivy Bag and know I'll survive a cold night. If the worst case scenario for the weather exceeds what I know I've done in this set up then I am staying home.

And a stove is another item I never carried (although I have been bringing it sometimes of late). For the stove I feel if the weather is really bad it will likely be difficult or impossible to use it anyway, I may get too cold stopping for the length of time I need to use it for, or if I'm injured I might not be able to operate it anyway. So I opt for more easily consumable food items versus a stove. Quite the opposite, I usually bring the stove in good weather to enjoy a coffee, hot chocolate or maybe a hot meal in a great spot with a view instead of bland Winter snacks.

On the other end of the spectrum, I always have spikes, crampons and snowshoes and most times an ice axe. I put a premium on safe travel and don't want to be screwing around with the wrong tools for the job because of the weight penalty. Being able to travel safely and securely in any conditions is a top priority for me.

And I generally have a lot more water than most people in Winter. 3L in OR insulated coozies is pretty normal for me although lately I've been going with 2L as my conditioning has improved (well up until this Winter anyway). I just find it easier to carry the water versus taking less and having a stove to melt snow for the reason I mentioned above.

Last but not least I usually go overboard on lighting. Usually have 2 headlamps with back up batteries and a small battery bank on me. Goes back to my priority of being able to travel safely in any conditions.

Those are my rationalizations for taking less than the perfect set up.
I've decided to look into one of those SOL emergency bivi's. They are small and take up very little room. I scrutinize everything I carry; this just seems to add a dimension that could up my emergency game without impacting my overall mission of not going to heavy.
 
It is a good discussion. I think objectively everyone on here knows what you need in order to survive an unplanned night in the Whites. If we ignored weight and convenience our Winter overnight lists would be pretty similar I expect. But of course we all make trade offs base on probabilities of events happening and have our own comfort level with what we can do without if those events happen. Most of us our comfortable with a less than ideal set up.

Me personally, I never have a sleeping bag. I prefer to have down pants and a second down jacket I have which is made for wildly cold weather (it has a fill weight comparable to many sleeping bags). I like having the option of being heavily insulated AND having the ability to be mobile with that insulation if I'm not injured. And if I am injured I've used these clothing items inside my OR Gore Tex Bivy Bag and know I'll survive a cold night. If the worst case scenario for the weather exceeds what I know I've done in this set up then I am staying home.

And a stove is another item I never carried (although I have been bringing it sometimes of late). For the stove I feel if the weather is really bad it will likely be difficult or impossible to use it anyway, I may get too cold stopping for the length of time I need to use it for, or if I'm injured I might not be able to operate it anyway. So I opt for more easily consumable food items versus a stove. Quite the opposite, I usually bring the stove in good weather to enjoy a coffee, hot chocolate or maybe a hot meal in a great spot with a view instead of bland Winter snacks.

On the other end of the spectrum, I always have spikes, crampons and snowshoes and most times an ice axe. I put a premium on safe travel and don't want to be screwing around with the wrong tools for the job because of the weight penalty. Being able to travel safely and securely in any conditions is a top priority for me.

And I generally have a lot more water than most people in Winter. 3L in OR insulated coozies is pretty normal for me although lately I've been going with 2L as my conditioning has improved (well up until this Winter anyway). I just find it easier to carry the water versus taking less and having a stove to melt snow for the reason I mentioned above.

Last but not least I usually go overboard on lighting. Usually have 2 headlamps with back up batteries and a small battery bank on me. Goes back to my priority of being able to travel safely in any conditions.

Those are my rationalizations for taking less than the perfect set up.
Leaving the sleeping bag and just using my down gear is something I have considered. With my EMS jacket inside my Marmot Greenland I should easily be good to 0F, I’m not as sure about the WM down pants or booties though. I could always pull my emergency bivy up to my waist for extra lower body warmth. Or maybe it’ll be time to buy one of those half sleeping bags this summer. It’s supposed to be warmer next weekend, at least according to the current forecast, so maybe I’ll give it a try.

As far as the stove, I have the vestibule for my tent so bad weather shouldn’t preclude me from using it.

Headlamps and batteries are something I go overboard on as well. At least 2 headlamps, with one always on my person, and extra rechargeable batteries & battery bank in my electronics bag. I don’t think I’ll need to bring the USB charger, but it is pretty light.
 
The problem with down, even the fancy new Downtek is its thermal value rapidly degrades if someone is physically exerting themselves in typical New England winter conditions unless the user has elected to make the jump to vapor barrier liner gear (pretty rare and definitely not very comfortable). Kate M reportedly had the latest and greatest expedition grade down climbing suit. Down is great for hunkering down waiting to be rescued but it acts like sponge if someone is perspiring. From an emergency gear perspective, I think the half bag that zips to mating down jacket is the better emergency gear than down pants , although the issue that when down is compressed, the insulating value is almost nill so a suitable and bulky foam pad is needed to sit or lie on.

My personal experience is the only time I pull out my down gear is when I am stopping for a few minutes or need to get warmed up, but it comes off once I am moving. AMC used to teach a fairly extreme regime of perpetually zipping/unzipping/taking on and taking off gear to maintain dry insulation but I dont really know anyone who actually is that disciplined. This may be divergence from a skier on lift equipped ski area, in between runs, they can head into the lodge, warm up and dry out while a hiker rarely has that luxury.
 
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One aspect that has not come up is that the described location of the recovery is no more than a 1/2 mile from Guyot Shelter. Would there have been value in heading for it?. There is no heat at the shelter but its very sheltered from most wind and the door faces downwind. If there is enough snow, it tends to drift in so it has some potential to be slightly warmer than sitting in a snow bank (although if its not drifted in it will be no warmer than outdoors). It would be dryer inside and hunkered up in corner might be slightly less heat loss. Reportedly he was on the phone with family for some period of time so he was somewhat rational but since he was in touch with 911 and presumably fish and game, this option hopefully was discussed and discarded? . The downside is that the trail into Guyot reportedly drifts in significantly and is downslope so its potentially a one way trip down off the ridgeline and there would be far poorer cell coverage at the shelter than on the ridge
 
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