I Took a 3-Day Beating in the Whites and Loved Every Minute of It!

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una_dogger

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 29, 2005
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Location
The Hinterlands of North Central MA
Friday:
Up at four am for the long ride up to Barnes where I was determined to get a tent site before the hoards arrived for the Inferno Pentathalon the next day. I was successful.
Cruised into Pinkam at 9:00 where I met up with Adventurous, fresh from a week of skiing all the finest mountains NH has to offer under bluebird skies.
First stop, Ferncroft where we had plans for Passaconnaway and Whiteface. A late start on a 65 degree day with 100% solar glare off the snow, Adventurous nailed it when she descibed the conditions like "hiking in a greenhouse". We found Dicey's Mill in mashed potato conditions, a mushy narrow monorail surrounded by three to four foot deep soupy banks.
The stream was crossable by rockhopping in our snowshoes on the way up. The climb to the Rollins trail felt unforgiving on this very warm and sunny day. Some minor blowdown along the way.
We reached the East Passaconnaway Loop and found the monorail obliterated by a postholer, looked like single tracks made by large boots. We found it difficult to stay on the rail and often fell off the trail to one side or the other into the deep snow. Trail markers gradually disappeared as we climbed and snowpack deepened. At the top of the slide we enjoyed amazing views of the Tripyramids, Sleepers, Hancocks, Carrigan, and the Bonds; as well as the Osceola's and Tecumsah.
We made a quick trip up to the summit, then back down to the vista for lunch and a little trailside foot repair.
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It was late in the afternoon when we returned to the Rollins Trail. After some discussion regarding the camber of the trail along the bowl and the slippery mashed potato conditions, we felt that if we continued on to Whiteface we may very well be hitting the Blueberry Ledges at dusk; and without any beta on those, we decided to leave Whiteface for another day. Passaconnaway was number NH#40/NE115 #100 for me and NH#7 for Adventurous who is a 46r. :) Three times a charm, Passaconnaway is finally under my belt after evading me *twice* this winter! Yay!
Back at the crossing, the brook had risen at least a foot and the rocks we crossed were now whitewater rapids. We wacked up the banks for about 1/10 of a mile and found a very large pine, freshly fallen. Mother Nature always provides when one is patient! ;) It was far enough from the brook to create a bridge that spanned not only the brook but also kept us high above the deteriorating snowbanks.

The best part of the day was the roadwalk at sunset and the way the last light of the day cast a warm glow upon the farmhouse in the valley and the golden light on Whiteface.
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A yummy dinner and a pint at the Moat and back to Barnes for some zzzz's.

Saturday:
Up early and over to Pinkham where we nabbed the last spot in the adjacent overflow lot. I have never seen so many cars at Pinkham!!! After changing into our hiking clothes and enjoying a fine AMC breakfast, we walked the road to the Glen Boulder Trailhead, passing *at least 100* skiers headed for Tucks...yes, we did feel that we were going the wrong way -- but it was such a great feeling -- so much positive energy in the air, it was a special treat to vicariously ride the vibes created by this unique backcountry ski community. Very kewl. So many smiles... :)
We turned up Glen Boulder and found a few skiers that had decided to go up to Gulf of Slides this way. We all hiked together, taking turns breaking trail. A short way after crossing the Diretissima Trail, we ran into Rolly (Rocks on Top) and his son. They fell into our caravan and we all continued to climb up through the steep banks of soft snow, outright loosing the trail. It was easy to see Glen Boulder through the treetops and we chose to 'whack up.
Reaching the rocks were had a welcome reprieve from our snowshoes, had a snack and marvelled at how green and alive the fragile alpine environment is right now -- teeming to life as soon as the snow receeds and the warm sunshine reaches it. Very beautiful.
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All too soon we reached the top of this wonderful rock garden. We took a bearing on the top of the Gulf of Slides in the distance and plunged into the spruce. Keeping our bearings on the top of the Gulf, we slowly moved through the deep spruce, falling into spruce traps so frequently that every ten foot forward advance was bitterly earned. It took at least an hour to move through this section.
Five hours to reach the Davis Path from the overflow lot...when we emerged above treeline, the thought of Isolation and more woods, more spruce traps..well, it was inevitable...we were bagging Plan A and moving toward plan B, enjoying a bluebird day above treeline in the Presis, hiking simply to hike.
Plan B consisted of following the Davis Path, dropping across the top of the headwall of Tuckerman Ravine, passing through the Alpine Garden and down Lion's Head, but when we reached the top of the rise beyond Boott Spur, we felt it not wise to cross the snowfields above the lip without ice axes. With only our snowshoes today, we headed back for Boott Spur, but not before we took a trip down to the top of the left gully and watched some skiers take off for the thrill ride down; and a bonus meeting with Timmus and Motobobo. :)
The trail down Boott Spur was an active stream, filled with some rotten snow here and there. We reached the lip of the left gully and paused to watch skiers both climbing up it and skiing down it. What a thrill. The effort, combined skills and sheer will it takes to chose to ski this way is inspiring. It was a special treat to sit high above the world below in this magical place and watch skiers come down from the summit of Washington, across the lip or into one of the gullies, carve amazing turns and disappear into the ravine.
Intense..
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Carved turns in the right gully
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The trail down Boott Spur was filled with winding diversions into a hell only buried spruce can provide. I will go no further, the memory is too painful.... :eek: ...although Kim still manages a smile...
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Sunday:
Coming past the 19 Mile Brook Trailhead I spotted a familiar truck and floppy tan hat, and made a quick u-turn to shake the hand of Hiker Ed Hawkins who has just completed the 48 x 48. Way to go, Ed! Always a treat to spend time with Ed. Dr D arrived and we regailed him with our journey up Glen Boulder. We then headed off to Waterville Valley, after a quick pit stop in Lincoln, and booted up for a climb of Tecumsah. Its been a running joke that I might just end up finishing on Tecumsah, but today turned out to be the most enjoyable hike I've had in some time (especially THIS weekend!). A well shaded trail offered a still solid monorail. Recent windy days have left the snowfloor littered with tiny green sprigs of spruce, creating a beautiful moose pasture. The light in the trees glittered and the sounds of the stream rushing past created an enchanted spring forest. After crossing the stream in the gorge, we followed a faint path off to the left that lead out to a ski lift and a great view of the Osceola's and Tripyramids. Back into the woods, the trail climbed steadily and sometimes steeply until it met the ridge just below the summit cone. At the loop trail, Kim lead the way to the summit. Steep and winding and icy in spots, we took our time. Upon the summit, we enjoyed more views and NH#41/NE115 #101 for me, NH4K #8 for Kim. Way to go Kim!
The hike down in the woods was so pleasant and I felt so grounded after three wonderful days in the mountains, a break I really needed.
We chose to descend via the Tippercanoe Blue Ski Trail at Waterville Valley, following Mad River's swiss bob tracks to the base of the slopes.
A welcome note on our car from Mad River inviting us for a rest stop, which we happily and obliged; and spent the rest of our weekend in Adirondack Chairs by the river, chatting about the mountains in winter and spring. A fine way to wrap up the weekend.
Tecumsah, a fine place to finish afterall...
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Great trip report. I couldn't have summed it up any better myself. A 3 day beating describes the weekend to a T...I'm bruised, blistered, burnt, cut, and scraped. It was a blast :D I can't wait to go hiking again!!! Memorial Day weekend won't come fast enough.
 
Great trip report & wonderful pics Una.

You were missed very much at the party.
Thank you for letting us have MJ to snuggle.

Hopefully you can make Bearly Live.
 
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Nice... out doing your thing. Missed you as well (but I can't remember snuggling with MichaelJ :eek:, although I did give him a 'chest butt' in the Bagel shop on my way out of town!)
 
bubba said:
Nice... out doing your thing. Missed you as well (but I can't remember snuggling with MichaelJ :eek:, although I did give him a 'chest butt' in the Bagel shop on my way out of town!)

Good thing, 'cuz I don't remember anything along those lines, either!

That was one badly-needed bagel and coffee. I couldn't have made the drive home without them...

Sweet TR! Congrats on even getting as far as you did, I'm not sure I would have, which is why I didn't even try but instead hiked much further south. :D

And now you don't have to worry about ending up finishing your 46 on Tecumseh! Better hurry up and get Waumbek done next...
 
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Ed'n Lauky said:
Great TR, beautiful pics and as always full of energy and may I say 'Adventurous". :D

She was just trying to see if I could live up to my screen name. I think she succeeded!!!
 
MichaelJ said:
And now you don't have to worry about ending up finishing your 46 on Tecumseh! Better hurry up and get Waumbek done next...

There's only 46 now?! :eek: :D
 
Let's make that "finishing your 48 on Tecumseh" instead.

Hey, I was tired!
 
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