ice climbing Mt Washington 1/26-1/27

[wgreene]

Hi VFTTers,
I was hoping there are glacial souls out there interested in some snow climbing or ice climbing from Pinkham Notch. I may be able to provide accommodations for 10+ people if no trace is left...or I am willing to camp out on the mountain...or both. Planning on driving up Friday night and returning Sunday mid morning. I have space for 3 in my vehicle and will be leaving from Cambridge/Somerville. Planning on staying at the house Friday night and hitting the mountain as per conditions. Expect very flexible and relaxed timetables...we may have to get up early, but must not forget it is a weekend. Beer, glug, and the like are all welcome, but please leave no trace if staying at the house in Ossippe.
I'm fine for leading easier routes. Will gladly feed and fuel anyone with the skills to take me up some of the harder gullies.
plur,
Will

 

[cbcbd]

Will, yer speaking my language... but I'm already booked for this weekend.
Have a good time and bring back pics!

 

[wgreene]

winter camping in Cutler River Drainage (Lower Tuckerman)

Thanks for the responses, always nice to receive kind words.

New addition to the plan...building a snowcave or improvising a winter bivy (with back-up gear). Thinking of using lower Tuckermans to practice winter survival skills, assuming avalanche danger remains low in the lower snowfield. Does anyone know if there are restrictions against bivying there? I'm not sure if camping restrictions are lifted in the winter. Another option is to pay for a tent-site or retreat to the car.

best wishes,
Will

 

[David Metsky]

Does anyone know if there are restrictions against bivying there? I'm not sure if camping restrictions are lifted in the winter. Another option is to pay for a tent-site or retreat to the car.

You can only camp at the tent platforms or shelters at Hermit Lake or at Harvard Cabin. Nothing else is allowed.

 

[wgreene]

bivying in cutler drainage

Hi All,
The snow was not suitable for digging a snow cave, there was a bullet-proof ice layer near Hermit lake and it was getting too late to go up to the lower headwall. The AMC staff at the Pinkham Visitor Center and the caretaker at Hermit Lake were cool about allowing me to try digging a snow cave. I asked and explained that I wanted to practice someplace safe. Seemed like they really just want to make sure people stay safe and protect the area. I'm assuming that tons of people are not going to start asking to dig snow caves. I don't mean to give the impression that the rules are wide-open; rather that it might not hurt to check-in, pay the normal fee, and ask. Plus, I also carried a big packet of weather sheets up to the caretaker.

I ended up staying in lean-to #5. Between the cold, less-than-desireable fitness, inexperience with white gas stoves, and the fact that freezed dried food goes bad (I mean really foul), I got enough in just spending 24 hours on the mountain. Small steps.

To top it off the sewer burst at the house in Ossipee; I must say, there was more snow up there than I have seen in years. I did enjoy making a fire in the stove and reading by it.

 

[sardog1]

Let's be clear about something. If you're sleeping in the Cutler River drainage in the winter season (12/1 -- 3/1), you're (1) in one of the shelters or on a tent platform at Hermit Lake or (2) you're in the Harvard Cabin. You're not sleeping in a snow cave or bivying or tenting anywhere else in the drainage.

Any contrary advice is wrong, and you should ask your adviser to pay your fine for you up front before you try it. The Forest Service sets the rules, not anyone else. You can practice digging a snow cave so long as you don't leave it as a hazard to another person, but you cannot sleep in it except in extremis.

 

[cbcbd]

Any contrary advice is wrong, and you should ask your adviser to pay your fine for you up front before you try it. The Forest Service sets the rules, not anyone else. You can practice digging a snow cave so long as you don't leave it as a hazard to another person, but you cannot sleep in it except in extremis.

The AMC staff at the Pinkham Visitor Center and the caretaker at Hermit Lake were cool about allowing me to try digging a snow cave. I asked and explained that I wanted to practice someplace safe. Seemed like they really just want to make sure people stay safe and protect the area. I'm assuming that tons of people are not going to start asking to dig snow caves. I don't mean to give the impression that the rules are wide-open; rather that it might not hurt to check-in, pay the normal fee, and ask. Plus, I also carried a big packet of weather sheets up to the caretaker.

"The AMC manages the Hermit Lake Shelter in the White Mountain National Forest in cooperation with the United States Forest Service."

The rules are there, yes.
Sounds like you got an exception from the source / someone working with the source / someone enforcing for the source / someone in cahoots with the source / someone doing the source... or something like that.

I wouldn't worry about it... just don't post it publicly on the forum next time