jacket/shell for Rainier..

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Jay H

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OK, So Guy has his pants thread for Rainier... How about a jacket one.

Like Guy, I am undecided whether to go with a summer shell, a slightly heavier summer shell or a warmer shell/fleece liner or a full blown down winter jacket.

I have the following in my stash, a very light and thin Patagonia windshell that compacts small

I also have an older TNF Mountain Light with a 300wt Fleece Denali jacket that can zip into the ML.

I also have a standard precip shell

I also have a MH Phantom Down winter jacket that compresses like no tomorrow.

Size is at the utmost premium which is why I'm kind of worried about the TNF ML/Denali combo cause that will probably take up the most space, fleece being big. I'm considering really taking the MH Phantom and the Patagonia shell as a waterproofing because I think that would compact the most and the Phantom is probably more than warm enough for 99% of what is expected in terms of outerwear.

Comments? Suggestions?

Jay
 
I've never been there, but 2 local guys were just injured and rescued on Rainier slipping and crashing into a crevasse.
My point is not to be a bummer but to send hope you contact someone with good local knowledge before and during.
Good luck, I'm jealous !
 
TNF Mountain Light and a midweight base layer would be perfect. Unless your fleece is very, very thin, I wouldn't bother with it. Maybe bring a second polpro top or something instead. I think it hit maybe 25 at night when we went last Summer. I wore Gore-tex on top and bottom with my long underwear underneath, and that was very comfortable. At the top I pulled out my down jacket and was nice and toasty. It's not a particularly cold mountain, and there isn't usually much wind in the Summer.

Take the down though. If you go into a crack and end up in there for a while you'll be glad you have it.

Also, (I'm sure you already know this) bring good sunglasses and SPF 999,999,9999999999 sunblock. Have fun, it's a cool place!
 
Jay for tops - I am taking:

a windbloc fleece

MT hard sub-zero down jacket - I wouldn't skimp on this - take for rest stops (even you will be taking them - ha ha!!!) and at night at camp - and during the RMI class - probably lots of standing waiting there.

and of course - my shell.

I do want to add thanks for concern about rescues - The lead climbing ranger there was quoted saying (yesterday) conditions on upper mt are the best he has seen in years and the string of accidents (I believe only one or 2 was on the DC) was kind a freak coincidence. We are doing research, have trained relentless, etc... and, we be in cotnact with rmi and the rangers and will not being doing anything stupid -

cant wait to step on the muir snowfield and start kicking steps!!
 
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Sorry, I disagree with the characterization of Rainier of not being very cold or windy in the summer. It took me 3 tries to reach the Crater Rim because I could not stay warm. This is with all the gear I have for winter hiking in the Whites. It can be VERY windy any time of the year. When I finally did reach the Crater Rim, it was in a cloud cap. I would estimate winds 30-40mph with next to zero visiability. This was in the last week of July. I have never made it to the true summit. All three times I was there the hike from Paradise to Camp Muir was inside clouds. Very damp and cold with drizzel (ideal hypothermia conditions). All three climbs when we got to Camp Muir we were above the clouds and it was much better (albeit very windy the first time). Oddly the weather cleared each time on the way down and was gorgeous and pleasant. The weather was extremely variable all the times I was on this mountain.

I would bring a good base layer, a 200-300 weight fleece jacket with pit zips, plus a gortex shell, plus a down parka to throw on over that for rest breaks and at Camp. You may not need them, hopefully you do not, but I personally would want to be prepared for it.

Consider the summit success rate is just under 50% for all those that set out to climb it, and that is including any part the Crater Rim as "the summit".

That is just my opinion.

Best wishes on your climb.
 
You don't have to be sorry, you can just disagree...

Anyway, I assume, Jay H, that you're looking for a variety of opinions on the matter so that you can figure out who you hike most similarly to, and make your packing decisions accordingly, so take all of these opinions in sum. A couple of other clarifications so you can understand my recommendation: we were not on a guided climb, and my rope mates were of a similar fitness level, so we were able to keep a pace that kept us all at a comfortable temperature, not too hot (fast), not too cold (slow) for any one person. There was not a lot of sitting around, just a 5 minute break for food and water every hour.

"Cold" is a relative term. My reference point is a standard multi-night climb in the presidentials in winter. There you can expect low visibility, high wind, and cold temperatures. I hike in long underwear and a Gore-tex shell down to about 5 below. Colder than that and I'll put on a thin fleece while hiking. I do not consider 20 F to be cold (again, take the reference point as a climb in the presidentials in winter).

Finally, I pesonally would not hike on a glacier that I was not very familiar with in low visibility conditions. In fact, we turned back not too far from the top of Baker last Summer because of low visibility, even though we were all perfectly warm and strong.

Kevin, you've never worn a down jacket in the winter in the Northeast??!! What???
 
Take the down (or synthetic fill) puffy.

You'll be glad to have it if you're out-of-doors at Muir or when stopped on the climb.

Jammed into a stuff sack or one of those fleece cozies, it also makes a great pillow for comfy night's snooze
 
Thanks everybody. I think I will bring the Phantom and my Goretex TNF ML, then I'll have my usual baselayer and midlayer stuff I'll wear in the NE winter hiking.

Just hope the weather is good!

Jay
 
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