KATAHDIN in Winter - Baxter and Hamlin Feb 2005

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sli74

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As I sit here writing this trip report, the muscles of my arms and legs have a dull ache that reminds me of why the smile on my face is taking on a look of permanence. I have yet to stop beaming from ear to ear and I know that no words or even pictures can do justice to the experience of Baxter State Park in February with 9 wonderful friends and weather that must have been a direct blessing from Mother Nature herself. This trip was to be my introduction to the intensity of Baxter in Winter, a preparation for a much more intimidating trip coming up this March.

The trip was co-lead by our very own GO and Frodo. The anticipation of being in such esteemed company was the cause of much joy and nervousness. The group was put together back in October 2004, in time to make the Nov 1 deadline to book reservations for winter Baxter trips. And since November, we have all been anxiously awaiting the arrival of our trip into the winter wonderland that is Baxter State Park, a trip that was a first for many of us in the group.

The 3 days prior to leaving for Maine I spent many nights of little sleep, cursing myself for procrastinating yet again and frantically packing for what was to be the longest winter trip yet for me . . . 5 days in the “wilderness” of Maine. The packing and sled building was finally finished by about 2 am on Tuesday night, Feb 1, 2005. I fidgeted and squirmed my way through my experiments at work on Wednesday, finally breaking free and making my way out of Boston headed to SherpaK’s house where I was to leave my car and join him for the drive up to Millinocket Maine to meet up with Arm and Donna, Sean and BoB.

The six of us were staying at the Terrace Motel in Millinocket and as SherpaK and I rode up to Maine with our sleds packed full into his Subaru Outback, we commented on how Donna and Arm, who car-pooled up there and Sean must already be in Millinocket enjoying a cold pre-Baxter beer. From a couple of phone calls, we also knew that we wouldn’t be the last of the Massachusetts contingent because BoB had left Springfield when we left N. Reading and Frodo was getting an alpine start at the wee hours of Thursday morning to meet us for breakfast.

As it turned out, we got a call from Donna and Arm when we were 10 miles from Augusta, ME telling us that they were having Mexican food at Margaritas (a real Mexican Restaurant) where else but Augusta. So, we decided that though we had already grabbed a quick dinner at Burger King, we would drop in and join them for drinks. Sean was already with them and so 5 of the 6 of us hung out long enough for BoB to catch up with us as he came through Augusta. Much of the next couple of hours is a blur to me as SherpaK was kind enough to allow me to catch a couple of ZZZZ while he drove us to the motel. I was EXHAUSTED and pretty much put my batteries in their charger and put myself to bed while the rest, who are a bunch of crazy party animals stayed out till 2 am at a pre-Baxter adventure at La Casa ( “ a Mexican Restaurant” ) :D :D

Up by 5 am and at breakfast by 6 and we were excited and nervous . . . okay, I was nervous, I cannot speak for the rest. GO, Warren, Nadine and Frodo arrived in time to have a little breakfast themselves and before I knew it, we were on our way to Abol Bridge. The sun was smiling down upon us and the sky was a crisp and clear blue, so beautiful that we couldn’t help but be filled with joy and uncontrollable smiles. We parked the trucks and cars and SUVs and unloaded our heavy sled . . . . well, some heavier than others. I knew I had over-packed but one look at GO’s sleek sled and I knew I would be breaking my back dragging my monstrosity in 16 miles to Chimney Pond but what else is new. By this time, I was dizzy and nauseous from nervousness, fully convinced I had made the biggest mistake in over-estimating my abilities. I was “The Weakest Link . . . Goodbye”! ;)

We all started at about 9 am with skis on our feet and sleds being drawn behind us. As we skied the tote road toward Togue Pond Gate, I fell to the back of the group, my usual spot and Arm kept me company back there. Though as the morning wore on and we made our way with constant views of Katahdin in the blue sky lit sunshine I found that I wasn’t too far behind the rest. We flip-flopped with other at about a mile and a half came to a junction where 2 rangers with snowmobiles were talking to the members of our group who were in the lead. As it turns out, Sean had accidentally left his lights on . . . but after some discussion it was decided that we would just deal with the dead battery when we got back from our 5 days in the Park.

The snow was packed down and the road relatively easily skiable. The sun beat down on us and we skied along spending time chatting and skiing with various members of the group. Upon reaching Togue Pond at about noon we were making good time having skied 4.5 miles and we regrouped and rested before making the sharp right onto the road leading a little over 8 miles to Roaring Brook Campsite where we were to spend the night. A little before Windy Pitch we came across Arm, lying out in the sun on his sled getting ready to take a nap. He told me that most of the others had removed their skis as the warmth of the day was causing the snow to soften and stick to the skis. I, being a less than wonderful skier, jumped at the chance to remove my skies and walk the rest of the way.

After strapping my skis to my already humongously overflowing sled, I carried on leaving Arm to take his nap. A little further down, I caught back up with Sherpa, Sean and BoB who were waxing skis and taking a break. I hiked on, knowing that I would be fighting dark to get to the cabin at Roaring Brook. As I huffed and puffed my way up Windy Pitch, Frodo was making his way sans sled on his skis towards me. He turned around after I gave him the update on the position of the rest of the group and kept me company for the rest of the 3 miles to Roaring Brook. Along the way, we caught up with Nadine and most of us made it to the cabin before headlamps became necessary. I was glad to not stop to pull it out of my pack. The warm glow from the cabin where the “speedier” crew had already built a fire was a welcome sight. The first day was now behind us and since Frodo and GO kept insisting that was the hardest day of the trip, I felt slightly relieved at not only having survived it but at feeling as energetic as I did when I finally settled into the cabin.

We listened to some music, thanks to Arm and Sean . . . luckily with the help of SherpaK and Donna, we kept “Moe” to a minimum . . . “No Mo’ Moe” :D and ate a hearty meal of chili and corn muffins which Arm so generously and graciously cooked, packed in and heated for the entire group. I felt pampered after that long trek in to just arrive at the table after having unpacked and be treated to such a yummy meal. I think it would be fair to say that we were ALL happy not to HAVE to cook that first night. I don’t remember much of the first night (this “memory gap/loss” will seem to be a trend throughout my trip report ;) ) but I do believe that as the rest of the crew stayed up and hung out, I went into my bunk to lay down for a second and woke up 2 hours later . . . just in time to say “Goodnight” to everyone and go back to bed and fall asleep once again to the rumblings of the snores that eventually filled the cabin.

It was an uncharacteristically warm night for February in Northern Maine (and this too will be a trend in my report of this trip) and the woodstove made the cabin so toasty warm that most all of us slept with our sleeping bags unzipped. We all got a leisurely start as we only had an uphill 3.3 miles or so to hike with the sleds before we’d settle once again into the next warm cabin at Chimney Pond. The morning brought with it some clouds that blocked the blue of the sky we’d been treated to the day before but the winds were calm and the day just perfect for our uphill struggle from Roaring Brook to Chimney Pond.

I started this day just behind Nadine, Donna and Warren and though I saw Nadine and Warren briefly at the viewpoint before Basin Pond, I spent the majority of the hike up by myself, reflecting on life and luck, nature and beauty . . . I cannot describe the sense of power that seemed to flow from the trees and mountains. It was truly a magical place and I couldn’t believe that I was actually there. I would be lying if I said it was an easy trip up to Chimney Pond BUT it was not the grueling hike I was anticipating. I took my time and one step at a time made my way up there. I sat with Frodo for a bit after crossing over the frozen ice of Basin Pond and ate and chatted but once again upon getting back on the trail spent my time singing to myself and hiking ever so slowly and steadily to the cabin. A quick conversation with 2 female rangers on foot and the older of the 2 male rangers on snowmobiles left me with high hopes for a clear and sunny day for our upcoming summit attempts.
 
At last I was at Chimney Pond and most all the worries and nerves plaguing me over the past few weeks just melted away and what was before me . . . all the splendid wonders of Chimney Pond in winter just practically knocked me off my feet, pulling the very breath from my lungs. I held back my tears so as not to embarrass myself BUT I have to say that I have never been in a place so magical, so all encompassing and emotionally gripping. I spent a lot of time just staring at the jagged mountain terrain looming over us and holding back the excitement of our trip up the next day. An evening visit from the ranger, Rob, confirmed our greatest hopes as he informed us that we would be treated to a “Classic Green Day” for our summit attempt the next day . . . 3 words we LOVED to hear, classic . . . green . . . day . . . After going through the safety equipment list and a roll call, we decided on a 7 am start time, a 2 pm turn around time and a 6:30 pm return time . . . After the ranger wished us a great hike and left, we divided the group gear responsibilities amongst us and everyone went about cooking, eating, packing and talking.

Once again, I don’t recollect much of the evening since I believe that I . . . again . . . headed to bed early so I could catch a few hours of rest . . . I think most of us slept in the cabin, but Frodo and Arm decided to take advantage of the warm temps and each took a lean-to as they were all unoccupied for the night. I must have woken up about a dozen times that night from the anticipation of starting up the mountain the next morning.

Finally, the morning of summit day arrived and brought with it clear, blue, calm skies with low winds and spectacular views. Everyone was probably as excited and anxious to hit the trail as I was because all 10 of us were ready and on the trail by about 7:20 am. I started as did most of the others with my ice axe and helmet strapped to the pack. Most of us had opted to leave the snowshoes behind as the snow conditions were packed for the route we anticipated tackling. We headed in a line up the Saddle Trail to the base of the slide we were to ascend. The snow was in great condition and the traction excellent. Nadine, Sean and I ended up being last in line though the group was never spread out very far as we all made our way up . . . We finally all stopped where we were and donned crampons and helmets, packed away our hiking poles and took out our ice axes.

As Nadine and I quickly discovered, privacy for “bodily functions” was NOT an option and from that was born a new friendship . . . we just decided that when you gotta go . . . you gotta go . . . it went something like this

Nadine: I gotta go pee
Me: Yeah, me too
Nadine: Guess we are just gonna have to go and hope that the guys up further don’t turn around
Me: Okay
Sean (2 feet downhill from Nadine and right beside me) : What are you two doing?
Nadine: I gotta go pee, so Sean, DON’T turn around, okay?
Sean (with a sigh) : Okay, fine!
Me: Yeah, I gotta go too, so don’t EVEN look sideways !!!
Sean ( in frustration) : you two are gonna pee uphill from me and I can’t even look to see where so I can get away?
Us: YUP

AND THUS . . . a newly formed alliance was born . . .
The Baxter State Park VFTT Pee Buddies . . . :D (which might have just been funny while one is drunk in Baxter :) )

Well the laughing soon turned to intense concentration as I tried to will my aching, shaking muscles to keep taking a step up the steep slope as it became steeper and steeper. By the time I reached the final steep pitch where my hero Frodo had set up a fixed rope, I was thoroughly exhausted. Sean or Nadine, I don’t remember who, asked me if I am gonna use the rope and I said “Heck ya I am . . . I will take all the help I can get . . . no room for machismo when my knees were shaking as badly as they were” not to mention, I don’t expect to get many opportunities to ascend using a fixed rope except when Frodo takes Nadine and I up Denali ;) ;) Right Frodo? :D

Once we were all finally up the steep slope under Frodo’s watchful eye and Arm’s video camera eye, it was time to make our way up to Baxter Peak. It had taken us 3 hours to ascend the 1.2 miles to the Saddle and it had been decided that we would ascend the 1 mile to Baxter Peak first and once back to the Saddle make a decision on Hamlin based on how the group was feeling. And with that we made our way up to Baxter Peak. We had very little snow until the snowfields just shy of the summit but did have interspersed areas of slick ice and bare rock, making the crampon situation a finicky one.

But in about an hour and a half the last of us, meaning me, arrived at the summit sign amid cheers and smiles, laughs and camera clicks (or in SherpaK’s case, camera problems). We kept our time at the summit short though with the 38 degree temps and Arm’s shorts attire we could’ve hung out all day and been pretty toasty warm. I think all of us . . . well at least me . . . wanted badly to get to Hamlin and we were now pushing fast towards our pre-set turn around time. After a heavenly 30 minutes on Baxter Peak, we all reluctantly but speedily made our way back in less than half the time to the Saddle.

A quick assessment of the group gave us the unanimous vote that we push onto Hamlin. Half our group headed up with the intention of returning back to the Saddle and heading back the way we came and the other half was to descend via the Hamlin Ridge to Chimney Pond. My excitement and happiness took over as I made my way slowly and carefully over the ice and bare rock to the summit of Hamlin. With less than 15 minutes to spare to the turn around time, I cut it close but made it to the summit of Hamlin, marking #67 of the NE67 4000-footer list . . . What a SPECTACULAR mountain on a breathtaking day with the BEST company a girl could ever want or ask for . . . THANKS !!!

This time, unlike on Moosilauke, I could’ve shed the tears of joy since there was no fear of frozen and painful lower eyelashes BUT there was no time as we had only 7-9 minutes to turn around time, we took a group picture and had a group hug (since hugs are my FAVORITE !!!)

Frodo, Warren, Donna, Sean and Arm headed down Hamlin Ridge while GO, BoB, Nadine, Sherpa and I went back to the Saddle. We headed down as quickly as possible as the setting sun had already left the steep Saddle slide in the shadows for quite a while turning much of it to a slick ice slope. We knew we needed to be safely off the slide before the ice posed a real danger and obstacle to our descent.

There was much humor and jokes tossed around as GO tried to instruct Nadine about “proper” ice axe handling from about 50-100 feet downslope. All I know is I kept hearing GO say “NADINE, Hook your thumb under the adze” and Nadine would reply “It is hooked under and two seconds later he would tell her again and once again she would insist the thumb was where it should be only to have him yell to her about her thumb again until she would hold out her thumb and yell “IT IS UNDER THERE” . . . it was too funny and it kept GO occupied so he couldn’t yell at me :D :D

Well, GO, BoB, Sherpa, my pee buddy and I all made it safely down the slide and I saw GO relax and smile for the first time all day :) It was a GREAT feeling. We made it back to the cabin with 2 hours to spare before the Black Hawks would be called in and the other group did as well. With the successful ascents behind us the “party crew” set out to party like it was “2005” in Baxter State Park !!!
 
Much celebration was to be had and many funny stories exchanged . . . Nadine told us about her 31.5 inch FISH and I told them about the “Astrology Guy” and we laughed and laughed into the night.

Speaking of night, 4 brave souls spent the night sleeping on Chimney Pond . . . yes you heard me, we slept ON THE ICE ON Chimney Pond . . .what a wonderful ending to a wonderful day . . . Nadine, Frodo and I decided we wanted to sleep on the pond and even though Donna tried her absolute “motherly” best to convince Nadine and I that we were crazy and it was too cold . . . Nadine and I grabbed our sleeping bags, puffy down jackets, sleeping pads and tarp and headed down with Frodo in tow. As he went down the path to his lean-to to get his stuff we stood at the junction with the spur to lean-tos 5 6 7 and 8 . . . The sign said Lean-tos 5.6.7.8 and Nadine in her ever intoxicated wisdom says to me in a loud whisper “Is Frodo in lean-to “5 point 6” or “7 point 8”?
I burst out laughing and say “Nadine, those are not decimal points . . . that says Lean-to 5 6 7 and 8” and she says “Well it could be decimals” and I reply “Well not if there are 3 of them, a number doesn’t have 3 decimal places” and she says to me “Who says” and I reply in MY intoxicated state “I would guess Dewey”?

We stayed up talking well into the night about life and philosophy and nature and the universe (we must have had a lot to drink :) ). I saw almost 2 dozed shooting stars . . . LIFE doesn’t get much better than this :D

Anyway, once on the Pond SherpaK joined us for the night and BoB joined us for a couple of hours before he got cold and tried to leave. By the time BoB got cold I was the only other one awake . . . I was looking at the stars and thinking when I see BoB get up and gather his things together . . . AND walk away in the wrong direction from the trail to the cabin. I call out to him “BoB, you are going the wrong way” . . . “BoB, BoB, BoB . . . you are going the wrong way” but off he went “Crunch, Crunch, Crunch” on the ice and it was just a lucky thing that I got up and headed out off the pond to use the facilitrees because out of the darkness of the night I hear a loud whisper “HEY, Is that the trail over there?” It was BoB and after a couple of attempts I got him back on the right trail to the cabin, good thing too because he had stepped through a thin spot in the ice while wandering and gotten his foot wet :(

The next morning those of us on the Pond awoke to the MOST spectacular blue sky and the first rays of sunshine hitting the Peaks on Katahdin one at a time. What a trip . . . What an absolutely GREAT TRIP !!!!

We wrapped up the trip with 1 more night at Roaring Brook where we tried desperately to hear the Superbowl and got bits and pieces through static and there was NO better way to end this AMAZING weekend to BSP than with another Patriots Superbowl Win !!!!!

I hiked out from Roaring Brook to the car as skis, ice and Seema are NOT a match made in heaven BUT at 5 hours for the entire trip out, I felt pretty good about myself and pretty lucky to have had such a wonderful, successful, winter trip to Baxter with GREAT Friends and FABULOUS weather !!!! What more could I want in LIFE????

Thank you GO and Frodo for being our fearless leaders, Thank you to the entire group for making this trip one for the record books for me and a big congrats to all of you who have actually made it this far into my trip report without snoozing (okay, maybe all of you is an bit optimistic, the one or two of you who have survived the LONGEST trip report in history).

Anything I have missed will be filled in by the others and because it is now 2 am and I have to be at work in about 6 hours, I will post my pictures to this thread next week sometime . . .

sli74
 
What an AWESOME trip report! Sounds like a great time was had by all.


I 'magine sleeping ON Chimney Pond would be awesome! I'll have to try it next time I'm there.
:eek:
 
sigh...maybe someday...but I really enjoyed reading about it!
 
Great trip report, Seema! and congratulations on completing the 67 !!!

Sounds like a wonderful trip ..... I'm sooooooo envious.
 
Well, now you all know why we had Seema write the report :)

Here are my PICTURES

I don't have much to add other than that the feeling I have from this trip just seems to last a longer than any other I've ever been on. For 10 of us to work together this well for 5 days with no issues is amazing. GO is an incredible trip leader! He had us working like a well oiled machine (and at my age, oil is a necessity!). This was a tough trip for me, but with GO's excellent organization, all I needed to do was put one foot in front of the other and get there (and occasionally remember to put on my brace;)). I tried things I never thought I'd do (like skiing most of the trail down from Chimney Pond with sled in tow), and had the time of my life. This truly was VFTT at it's finest!

Some Highlights:
GO's amazing patience, organization, and skill
Seema's excellent co-pilot and story telling ;). The hot dogs hit the spot too!
Arm's videotaping and humor (he is now a new Charlie Brown character)
Sean at La Casa, and HarryK's Labatt's Ice. Oh yeah: his hats ;)
Donna saying "I've had this conversation with each of you guys separately"
Nadine's fish story (BTW 38 inch, 31.5 lb King Salmon!)
Warren's excellent map (now hanging in my gear room)
Frodo's incredible fitness!
BoB's Budweiser at Abol Bridge
Chimney Pond sleepover: a once in a lifetime experience
The Group dynamics. This was a capable and extremely fun team!
The Weather!!!!!

My absolute favorite moment was the Hamlin Peak group hug. I mentioned it at some point the night before and only got strange looks. When I yelled "group hug" on Hamlin, it was like a fire drill. In a split second, we were all linked together, smiling and screaming "woohoo" at the top of our lungs. I will never forget that feeling. The human experience at its best.

A special thank you to GO for working so hard to make this the incredible trip that it was. No ship can reach it's safe harbor without a strong and capable captain at the helm. This ship saw fair skies and seas from launch to dock. The reason was not lost on any of us. You are a good man GO!

Oh well, I think I'll have to head back soon. Next Thursday sounds just about right ;)
 
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Best weekend of my life...

I've had many fun and exciting weekends, but this was definitely the best time ever. I've never laughed so much in my life.
The group dynamics were great, 10 people for 5 days and 5 nights in small quarters, yet no hat knockin'. (we all came back as friends)
 
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sli74 said:
The sign said Lean-tos 5.6.7.8 and Nadine in her ever intoxicated wisdom says to me in a loud whisper “Is Frodo in lean-to “5 point 6” or “7 point 8”?
I burst out laughing and say “Nadine, those are not decimal points . . . that says Lean-to 5 6 7 and 8” and she says “Well it could be decimals” and I reply “Well not if there are 3 of them, a number doesn’t have 3 decimal places” and she says to me “Who says” and I reply in MY intoxicated state “I would guess Dewey”?sli74

Okay, in my non-intoxicated state (since it's 10 a.m. and I'm at work) I'm laughing my butt off at that one! Love it!

Seema, what a great trip you had. I thought of you all weekend! Talk to you soon.

Jen
 
An absolutely amazing trip report (and trip). I am so happy for you all to have had such great weather and conditions and experience!

And of course congrats again to Seema on her 67!
:)
 
Seema (and all):

I'm jealous that you had such good weather for this trip. And even more jealous that you made it to the summit of both Baxter and Hamlin. I was so wiped out by the trip into Roaring Brook and then up to Chimney Pond, that there wasn't any way I could have attempted a summit the following day when 5 in our group did. Of couse, the weather was significantly different when I went - a swing of about 60 degrees!! When we got to the cabin at Roaring Brook, the temp was about 5 degrees INSIDE!!! :eek: I was also beginning to feeling the effects of a bit of hypothermia at that point, which takes more out of you than I would have ever anticipated.

Glad you had such a great trip. I so want to go back - Chimney Pond in winter is the most incredible place I have ever been. There just aren't words to describe it and the powerful forces of nature that you become witness to. I would have cried, too, but I would have frozen my eyeballs :D
 
Seema, it hurt so bad to read your TR--I could feel the envy eating away at my guts! :eek: :eek: :eek:

You folks got the lucky weather of a lifetime for that trip, and in all seriousness :p I'm very happy for you, especially those who were on your first Baxter winter trip. To have accomplished your 67th at the same time must have been a gas, congrats! To do the trip with Nadine was an added bonus, (better weather than '04, wasn't it, Nadine?) not to mention the rest of the crew. (SherpaK, we STILL haven't hiked together! Gotta fix that.)

Well, I suppose now I'll have to start doing a list. I've successfully avoided it until now, but it's starting to sound like too much fun. Besides, my son (the one who doesn't like hiking) just saw "48" and now wants to do them. :)
 
An epic write up of an epic adventure! Can't wait for the video :)

Congrats to the whole team.

Bob
 
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